parkerspop

My Feedback: (1)

I remember reading about some tips on retarding the retracts so they open and close at slightly different speeds. I have done a few searches but can't find the information. Any help would be appreciated. I have the Robart retracts for a TF P47

R8893

My Feedback: (20)

Robart and others sell retract control valves that have little needle valves that allow you to adjust the speed that the gear retracts and extends. If these are not available another method is to run the retract tubing through a piece of brass tubing and then put that inside a wheel collar. By tightening the set screw in the wheel collar you pinch the tubing and restrict the air. Best results on pneumatic systems are obtained when you control the speed by restricting the flow on the exhaust side of the cylinder, ie., the air that is escaping to atmosphere.

IL2windhawk

I'm bumpin' this baby!

How well do the "air line restrictors" work? Do they dampen
the retract "snap effect" sufficiently, or no?

They sure are alot cheaper than a speed-control valve.

Thanks

CorsairJock

My Feedback: (90)

The (Robart) air line restrictors help some, but mine still cycle too fast even with 2 per unit: one mounted as close as possible to each line going to each retract. They are indeed the least expensive option, and are easy to install as well. They are certainly better than nothing, but if you want really slow operation: I suggest using the Robart variable rate control valve in combination with the restrictors.

bigplumbs

Herea are mine in operation that I fitted the other day. The restrictors are just brass straights with a very small hole. Mine were robart and cost £4 for a pack of 4

http://media.putfile.com/YT-Air-Retracts-


www.densplanes.co.uk

Rocketman612

My Feedback: (85)

Ditto.

Always best to get full pressure to deploy the gear. Depending on your air tank you may not get a good deployment after a few cycles and the pressure is lower.

Pete

DavidAgar

My Feedback: (108)

As an alternate you can use a 1/8 inch wheel collar on the air line and adjust the air flow by adjusting the set screw in the collar. I have done this and it does work rather well. Good Luck, Dave

kmtranmd

My Feedback: (71)

The Robart restrictors worked well for me. I used the ones from Tower.
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXET36&P=7
I just put them on the main line from tank going to the retracts before they tee off so all will move slower.
I used variable valves from Robart and Century Jet and have had problems with them leaking air excessively. I've had to send some back because of excessive air leaks.

ticketec

My Feedback: (2)

I was wondering the same thing for my robarts.

I have the variable rate control valve (red one) and it's not good enought on it's own. I was thinking of getting the restrictors as well but was wondering if that was the best option.

thanks

bigplumbs

In my view the fixed restrictors work very well on there own

www.densplanes.co.uk

Ruudje

I use these.

I am sales engineer for Festo, have tested all of the one way flow control valves Festo provides. Also the ones Robart provide...

mine on the spit open in 6 seconds at slowest!!!

15899 GR-M3

Per double acting cylinder you need 2.

IL2windhawk

Can anyone else comment on the above comment in bold.
It seems like a great way to save cost & complexity.

Some people seem to be specific about putting them near
the retract piston. I don't really undestand why.

LDM

My Feedback: (15)

I have Robart gear , Cj gear , never used restictors ever , I use the robart air control valves , play with the settings and you can get then to slow down very scale . Once you get it set , use thread lock so that they do not come loose under engine vibration .

CJ -stock valve that comes with the retracts is poor , but they do sell an upgrade for $35 that works very well .

Ruudje

A restrictor like Robarts just 'restricts' the air going through the component in both ways.

A one way flow control valve only reduces the air coming OUT of the cylinder. Controlling the air coming out of the cylinder gives a better cycle then controlling the air going to the cylinder. One way control valve is fully opened when air goes through cylinder and a non return valve in the component shuts of when air comes from the cylinder.

when you put them as near to the cylinder as possible, you take out any influence of the hose.

Further. these things only work best when there is air in the hose. Don't know how to explain this properly... with 6bar going through the restrictor, you can better adjust the flow then when the airpressure is 1bar.

My flow control valves are all in the plane (distance from cylinder to valve: ca 10") but they still work fine. Better would be to put them near cylinder but this might make adjusting them very hard...

LDM

My Feedback: (15)

With Robart and CJ you can 100% control of the movemnet of the gear both up and down