gospeedracer

Hey guys,
I'm fairly new to scale warbirds and i need your help on a couple of issues. I recently bought half a top flight P-40E kit of Peter_OZ (minus wing compnents) and was hoping to convert it to a B model, but still want to conceal the engine and muffler. There lies several problems, the B's chin cowling is shallower so it restricts the height of the engine. Also the nose extends almost 90mm past the end of the radiator cowling before the spinner where on the E there is only about 10mm. Are there any engines that have long enough crankshafts before the cylinder? Thanks for your help

Woody 51

Have you considered an RCV?

Just mount it on a "box" the required length to get the prop driver in the correct position.

No problems with the head poking out. It hasn't got one!

saramos

I am building a TF Spit in which I will be installing an RCV 90. I chose the RCV for two reasons. First, it will fit neatly in the cowl, and second, it will turn a 15" 4 blade.

I have to extend the engine mounting box to give proper placement of the engine, and I may need to make a verticle adjustment to the firewall for the shaft alignment, but the mods don't look too hard. I have some photos in my gallery.

Good luck on your build
Scott

gospeedracer

Thanks for that, i just checked out their website. It looks like that might be the answer to my problem. I wonder if they're available in AUS? I bet they would cost a bloody fortune, these model shops jack up the price so much. The kit says it needs a .90 4 stroke minimum, do you think the RCV .90 would be sufficient? or should i go to the 1.20? Also, does anyone have tips on how i can reduce the weight of the model? Thanks

fw190

My Feedback: (37)

If you really want to make the mods look right, you will need to lower the thrust line for the P40B. The spinner is much lower than the P40E.

Vic

Peter_OZ

My Feedback: (1)

hey Brendon,
mate buy the thing overseas from one of the US hobby shops, our $ is up and it will be a lot cheaper then buying in Oz.

cheers
Peter

Woody 51

Don't get em in Oz. Its cheaper to get them straight from the UK or the USA, even if you do have to pay 10% GST. And if you have a warranty problem, it only takes a phone call or an e-mail and a few days to send it back.

I also fly electrics and its cheaper to import Lipoly batteries and micro servo's in from Japan.

One day those running the Hobby Import business here will figure it out why modellers in Oz keep going off shore to buy stuff. Even when one pays's full O/Seas retail, it's often still cheaper than getting the stuff here. (Basically, we're sick of getting ripped off!)

saramos

I guess the specs are a bit different between the P-40 and the Spit. The Spit recommends up to a .90 four stroke. If the P-40 recommends a minimum of .90 on the four stroke, you may want to consider the 120.

This is my first RCV and I have not yet finished my Spit. I hope to fly this spring. I suspect that when I do, the .90 will not be any kind of speed demon. But being able to turn a big prop, and not having a cylinder poking out the cowl, for me was more important. I'll still need to cut holes in the cowl for cooling though. [&o]
I would think that with the chin scoop of the P-40, and with a little custom baffling, you should be able to achieve a more concealed installation.


Scott

LDM

My Feedback: (15)

hey Pete, this plane just wont Die !!!!
I can only hope my P40 has as many lives as this cat !!!!lol
Good luck with the new B vesrion , post some pics as you go we would love to see them !

WhiteRook

My Feedback: (38)

The only true P-40B kit out there is a jerry bates and you can get it from
bob holman plans, i think you can just get the plans.

THE B MODEL is very different from the E

gospeedracer

Isn't it just the cowl/engine arrangment, the guns and the rear canopy windows?

LDM

My Feedback: (15)

I would pick up the squardren signal publication , I think they cover every version of the P40 and you can see the exact changes in cowl , tail and profile .

WhiteRook

My Feedback: (38)

if you get the osprey publication called AVG COLORS AND MARKINGS
THERE is a pic of a B MODEL and a E model side by side in it on page 55

the rear birdhouse is definately different.

US185Damiani

The P-40B and P-40E are 2 completely different birds. Not only are the cowl and canopy different, the entire aft fuselage has a different shape also to allow for the higher thrust line of the F series Allison. A mod to just the nose would not look correct at all.
Better to get the bates B model plans or just build the E as is. I have one and it looks about right.
Good Luck

WhiteRook

My Feedback: (38)

interesting dami . it seems that the B HAS a steeper curve.
down to the fin, as i look again.

THE bates B MODEL is a dream project for me, mabey some day.

US185Damiani

Good luck with it,
The TF E Model is a good flyer, just keep it at about 10.5 lbs and you'll be fine I had one that flew well at 13 lbs.
I balanced mine with the gear retracted and added some up elevator travel on high rate to make up for the nose heaviness with the gear down. I also set the CG 1" farther forward than on the plans to make it more docile.
Good luck with it.
Mike

gospeedracer

Ok, i've decided to go with the B. As peter said in an email, even if it doesnt fly as well, it'll still be a great learning experience. I've spent the last couple of days redesigning it and i started construction last night. I extened the plywood chin plate, fuse doublers and crutch to move the firewall forward to mount an RCV 120. Now i'm up to installing the rear formers but i need some help. I want to install the robart 121 tailwheel. I've got some pictures of one installed in a TF P-40, but they're not very clear. I been fidling around with it on the plan and i can't find a way for the wheel to fully retract and allow for a door to come over the top. No matter where i position the unit, the wheel is either too low when retracted or too far back when retracted. Has anyone done this before? Does anyone have a plan view of where they installed it, or a couple of measurements as where to mount it? Thanks guys

Peter_OZ

My Feedback: (1)

Hey Brendon,
those 121 units are junk. Not real strong and you will need to drive it from a servo or set up an air ram. More weight, especially in the tail.

i had same prob as you when I had one fitted to my P51, had to bend the wire around a bit and play with length till the geometry was right and the thing would retract the wheel all the way in. After all of that I junked it and used a CJM one.

my advice on that plane is to use fixed tail wheel, that is what i did.
cheers
Peter

gospeedracer

I have seen some really nice installations of it in the TF P-40 though and they said it functioned well provided it was set up properly. I have pictures of these saved on my harddrive, but i dont know where they came from cause i got them ages ago. Has here succesfully done it?

p-40_lova

This may help

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_18...tm.htm#1842566

Peter_OZ

My Feedback: (1)

Brendon,
one thing I would say re the pull cables is to get the kevlar coated type of cable and run them through the yellow nylon inner cores you get for some control rods. This cable can be bought from fishing tackle stores. Then purchse some dubro 2-56 rigging couplers and 2-56 ball links. I use ball links so that the cable does not rub through on the steering arm.

Have a look at how I did it for the CJM tail wheel on my P51.

cheers
Peter

gospeedracer

Hey Peter,
Thanks for your advice. I haven't actually recieved the unit yet (sometime next week i hope) but i'll let you know how it goes. Your P-51 tailwheel would have been anoying considering it would tighten the cables if hooked up conventionally. Thankfully a little clever engineering worked out very well. It does look rather heavy though?

gospeedracer

Another problem.... testing my patience. I have found a nice almost scale sized prop to use with my RCV engine but i am unable to find a suitable spinner. Where do you all get yours from? and why is it so hard to find any in the 4" size. The shape is pretty standard, although it doesnt flatten out quite as much towards the back plate. Since i have not yet built the cowling, i can change it to blend in with whatever spinner i get (if i can get one). Any suggestions?

saramos

I too cannot find a stock 4 blade spinner. I am going to have to sping the $ for a custom spinner. True Turn is one vendor that will do custom cuts. I think Dave Brown does custom spinners too. I spoke with several vendors at the AMA convention last weekend, and the lowest quote was around 35 - 40 dollars.

Scott

Peter_OZ

My Feedback: (1)

G'day Brendon,

no the tail wheel unit is designed that way to mimick the full size which retracts forwards. It isn't that heavy in fact, consider the plane is 85" wingspan and it had a 1lb of lead in the tail which I removed I still may have to add a few Ozs or grams back in to the tail.

It is hooked up cirrectly and in fact that is the only way it can go on the P51 to be scale.

No idea on the spinner really though if you got hold of the TF 2 blade one you could make one up out of carbon fibre, mate of mine does it for his birds.

Other idea would be to get one spun up. there used to be one who advertised in airborne mag. do a ring around hobby shops and ask them. Try Hathorn hobbies in melb, he is pretty cluey.

cheers
Peter