wireman

My Feedback: (13)

Hi guys, hope some one has a nifty idea for rudder linkage. I am currently installing the controls for the tail and have reached a wall. I installed a tiller bar to be able to control the steerable tailwheel but have not been able to come up with a solid method of getting from the tiller to the rudder arm. I need to go down about 3 inches and back 7 inches with a soild, no flex control. If I can figure out how to insert a few images, I will include them so that my discriptions make a little sense.

Not having much luck inserting images!

rrudytoo

My Feedback: (27)

wireman,

Not having a real clear picture of what you are describing makes a solution kinda tough. The best I can offer is my preferred method of controlling the rudder and tailwheel steering.................pull-pull cables. You could have one servo with a pair of cables running to the tailwheel tiller and another pair of cables running to the rudder. Or, you can have two separate servos with one controlling the tailwheel and another controlling the rudder and use a Y-connector to join them.

If your tailwheel tiller only protrudes from one side, use a pushrod on it and continue to use the pull-pull cables on the rudder. Just a thought.

Al

wulf190

My Feedback: (19)

Can't use a seperate servo from a y-harness? This is how I did it on the Pica 1/5 Spit, using a metal gear, high torquer on the tailwheel. Seems like a tougher setup given the stress on the tailwheel.

carlbecker

My Feedback: (3)

I have used music wire on serveral models. I fly from a grass field. From my experience its not required to be stiff and I prefer some play. On my Ziroli Ercoupe I had quite a bend on a seperate servo which helped the gear train stay in good shape. On my GP Pitts I used 2" of fuel tubing to keep the tail wheel rod in place on the rudder servo push pull rod. Linkage has worked for 18 months. I have a similiar setup on my 1/5 scale Bates Wildcat at 30 pounds and so far its fine.

wireman

My Feedback: (13)

Thanks for the input guys, I had not thought of rudytwo's suggestion for pull - pull. I kept looking at the prints showing a single arm for the rudder. I put a pair of tube guides on each side and will make my own brass rudder control horn that will extend on both sides. Finally finished the install of the retractable tailwheel. I used a robart without the air cylinder as I think it may be adding to much weight to the tail. I am using a Moki 1.8 and I am concerned about excess weight in the tail. Wing is now at the point of installing retracts also so progress is slow but steady.

Edwin

My Feedback: (2)

On my corsair I went to the rudder first. The rudder has a torque rod that drops about 3 or 4 inches. I use a pull-pull system up high for the rudder and music wire to connect to the tail wheel thru two nose gear stearing arms. I had to secure the bottom of the torque rod so it didnt flex. File flats in the rod to keep the tail wheel straight. Position the stearing arms so that you cant get into a lockup situation on that linkage, very bad thing. This was done on a Bryan Taylor 75" ws corsair. Worked like a charm and helped keep weight down in the tail.
Edwin