Kelsey_B

First attempt with pics. Just wanted to show progress on TF corsair. It is out of the box with no mods. Wish I had found the info on RCU before I started this thing.

This is my first attempt at anything other than a sport plane. I know its got a few problems, so bash away. All I can do is try to improve on the next one.

For you painters out there, is it necessary to apply primer, or can I paint over the glass. Trying to cut out some weight.

Kelsey_B

Two more.

mirwin

My Feedback: (1)

Looking good! That will be a real nice F4U.

Cutting weight is always smart, but cutting it by not priming is a big mistake. Priming assures that the paint will last. Otherwise, you'll eventually have flaking. Always prime before painting - regardless of what you're painting. Some builders prime, and then paint. I rub down the dried primer with a fine steel wool to ensure a smooth paint job. If I apply more than one coat of paint, I do the same rub-down between coats.

Have you decided on color(s) and livery yet?

Mike

CorsairJock

My Feedback: (90)

I am new to 'glassing & painting, only done it to one Corsair. Turned out that the paint, including primer, added very little weight, especially once it was given a few days to cure.
Prime it, you won't regret it. It will also reveal any flaws that may have gone un-noticed, and give you a chance to correct before adding finish coats.

Rocketman612

My Feedback: (85)

Jim,
Sounds like your a convert

Kelsey B,
The primer also helps fill in the weave of the fiberglass that may have gone unfilled with urethane or epoxy. As stated before the primer sanded really gives a smooth finish. Your plane is looking good don't skimp on it now.

Pete

Kelsey_B

Okay, I'm thinking I will fill anything visual and apply primer. Then I plan to sand again with fine sand paper and see if there any low areas. I could treat those and reprime. I plan to finish the wing before I do anything else to the fuse.

Does that second pic look screwed up or what. It looks like a straight wing. I should have been lower when I took the picture. That one just looks stupid.

CorsairJock

My Feedback: (90)

Yes, Pete: I am a convert. I am repairing a Top Flite Corsair which will remain Ultra-Coted, but all subsequent projects will be painted.

Looks like there is still time to perform what I consider an essential mod: re-shape and reinforce the rudder.

I documented such mods in the Top Flite Corsair Mods column that I started some time ago.

There is also still time to do some other mods, which are listed in that column.

Here is link to it. Feel free to 'bump' it with question and/ or pictures:

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_96...corsair/tm.htm

Kelsey_B

CorsairJock,

I saw one of your pictures that had plastic, simulated gun ports. Are those available anywhere?

CorsairJock

My Feedback: (90)

Try sending an e-mail to Dan Gipe at Wing Mfg. If he doesn't have them, I plan to have him make another batch for me, and I will have extras for sale

I have a set on my electric Hanger 9 Corsair as well: see my "Gallery"

Kelsey_B

Here's a little more progress. I am using Rustoleum, and I applied three light coats per instructions. Coverage is good and definitely no runs, but I did not get a very good finish. I guess my surface prep was not very good. This entire project has been a learning experience for me. I hope to do better next time.

I used CorsairJock's template to make the cowl flaps, and the Supertigre 90 will fit into the cowl. I also have a Bisson pitts muffler, but it would not clear the motor mount. I had the guy's at work make a 1/4" aluminum spacer to fit between muffler and engine. What a pain!

Kelsey_B

a couple more.

CorsairJock

My Feedback: (90)

LOOKING GOOD! Tri-color Corsairs are the way to go: these are the ones the Marines (and some Navy units) fought with in 1943 ~ 1944, before we had nearly completely annialated fighter opposition (1945), an era when air dominance was still highly contested.

I hope you have a scale accurate scheme picked out for this one: I've seen several 'tri-color' ones that had the post 1947 stars and bars with the red center bar; WRONG! Use WW II marking/ insgnia. You have a very nice looking project so far, so I hope you do a little research and finish it out right.

D Bronk

Corsair jock ,I agree,100% with You, in regards to a person getting their markings correct.I find those small THINGS big become a BIG plus to finishing off a corsair.Makes no sense to to put alot of effort into a plane(sport,or,scale, to whatever degree).Then just not get the BuNo`s and its other markings CORRECT.Some of the CORSAIRS are easy to find pics; of others not so easy. I`m going thru this myself at the moment.No matter,do the "homework" get those details right and it sure does kick the entire plane up a notch. It IS worth the effort , in my opinion. After spending time and money to outfit a persons kit whats another day or two doing a bit more research.TO the POSTER if you are having problems finding photos,I have a lot of good leads,if you want them.just let me know. FLY for NOW!!!!!! DAVE B.

Kelsey_B

I have no intentions of slappping on the decals that came with the kit. Since I'm using spray paint, I'm fairly limited on colors. I doubt the colors I'm using are anywhere close to authentic. I like the markings of a plane on pg 30 of Squadron Signals detail and scale vol 1. A blue circle with a white star, and a single white bar on each side. See attached

Are these availble as a decal, or do they have to painted on?

Also, is there a clear coat that I can spray over Rustoleum?

D Bronk

RIGHT on KElSEY .It`s a great book isn`t it ?I`ve got #1and #2 worth the money I think.I`ve not read your entire thread ,but will when I have a chance .do the best you can. the homework pays!!! .D.B.

warbirdcolors

My Feedback: (5)

I have a satin, finish clear-coat available at:

http://www.warbirdcolors.com

Go to the USA web-page (click on the stars & bars) & follow the link to purchase from the color palette. WarbirdColors is a one-part, water-based, fuel-proof, acrylic polyurethane paint, which will work fine over the Rustolium...and the COLORS are ACCURATE

CorsairJock

My Feedback: (90)

Major Decals makes those decals. It will however, require 2 sets/ different sizes to get the correct sizes for your Corsair. Expect to pay about $20 These are the ones used on my 1st 2 Top Flite Corsairs (see "Gallery").

If you are interseted, I'll look up the sizes. I think both sets are available from Tower, OR your LHS.

Kelsey_B

CorsairJock

Thanks for the assistance. You have been very helpful and encouraging as usual. I located a set of Major Decals for a 60 corsair on tower site.\

I sanded the fuse lastnight and filled all the dents and seems with filler. I want to start glassing over the extended weekend.

Everyone enjoy their 4th of JULY.

D Bronk

hey KELSEY http://www.aeroloft.com/Catlog.pdf .These I think are both water transfer,,you can fuel-proof,you no clear and then have no edge to feel,plus decals .thinking of contacting them for my own F4U-5 all kinds of packages,warning decals some mechanic instructions.all for finishing up the job.made no contact myself yet but if you do please tell me your findings want to keep my options open to.......D.B all sorts of warbirds here.

Kelsey_B

Thanks for the assistance D Bronk. I'm not trying to get too fancy with this. This corsair will be a warbird trainer for me. I'm definitely have plans for another with alot more goodies and better finish.

I did find a set of decals I want at cal-grafx.com. They have the blue circle trimmed in red. This was only used for a few months in 1943, but I think they look cool. You have to specify circle dia when ordering. I'm thinking 6" for the wings and 3 3/4 for the fuse. Thats all the detailing I plan to do for this one.

I'm working on a set of plans to modify the TF wing to use different ribs, te, and control surfaces to look a little more realistic. The construction method will be very similar to that of a Royal.

dionysusbacchus

My Feedback: (25)

Nice work so far! Why not just get a set of Royal Corsair plans? The TF fuselage is also wrong and will have to be completely redesigned. Of all the Royal kit's the Corsair has the fewest blocks used in it's construction. I have the plans and parts sheet on CD if you need help with that. The parts sheet has all the ply and balsa wood parts shown on the size of sheet you need, so just 3M spray adhesive them to the correct size wood and cut out your kit!

Dion

CorsairJock

My Feedback: (90)

Correct diameter of wing stars is about 7" on wings, 5 1/4" on fuselage sides. This is why it takes 2 sets/ different sizes if you use the Major Decal ones: I use the large ones from set #163 for the wings, and the large ones from set #143 on the fuselage sides. These sizes get you very close. But 6" is definately too small for wings, and 3 3/4 too small for fuselage sides.

Another option, altho difficult to find: the old Top Flite 'red box' Corsair decals. These are red-outlined stars and bars and are the correct size.

I don't want to discourage you from buying from Cal-Grafix: just make sure you order the correct size

Kelsey_B

Thanks Jim. I figured you would know that. I was estimating between 6" and 7" on wings, but I apparently missed the fues dia. a bit. I'll order them per your dims.

Dion, I tried to buy a Royal in Sept 2004, but told they were no longer available. I bid on ebay on a few and lost, although I did win on a P-38. I gave up on a Royal. If you have the plans, I would like to build one. Let me know how much you want for the CD. Could the TF canopy and cowl be used?

dionysusbacchus

My Feedback: (25)

The Royal Corsair appeared to be pretty plentiful on ebay for many years but after Marutaka closed its doors they dried up quick. I haven't seen a good example in a while. YES, the TF canopy will work and I think the cowl will too. I think the Royal cowl is the exact same diameter as the TF, Corsairjock would know for sure though. I'll PM you. I definitely see a need for a good fiberglass Royal cowl, not sure if the fiberglass manufacturers make one. I might be able to part with an original aluminum one and I also make the Royal canopy and radial engine.

Dion

daw

My Feedback: (6)

Fiberglass Specialty makes a great cowl for the TF. It already has th eflaps open.