Brian Taylor Bf109E-4 build
#376
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RE: BT Bf109E-4
HI Tim,
perfect job you show us here. Nice plane, done with such a perfection brings always the best results.
I hope, that you will have an absolute star on your airport..
Regards
Tomas
perfect job you show us here. Nice plane, done with such a perfection brings always the best results.
I hope, that you will have an absolute star on your airport..
Regards
Tomas
#378
Senior Member
RE: BT Bf109E-4
[/quote]
jimmy, according to Mr. Merrick in his reference that i'm using (and without trying to violate any copyright laws) he says RLM 70 was used for crew seating structures. to me it doesn't look quite right after looking at full scale photos of the cockpit but then again i didn't get a chance to see Wick's actual cockpit.
thanks for the info on the Tamiya paints. right now i'm mixing my own but i'll try to keep those paint numbers in mind the next time i'm at the hobby store. interestingly, though, i did start with khaki and added black and white and a slight amount of yellow to come up with the color. so i guess i'm on the right track! thanks!
[/quote]
ORIGINAL: tubig
jimmy, according to Mr. Merrick in his reference that i'm using (and without trying to violate any copyright laws) he says RLM 70 was used for crew seating structures. to me it doesn't look quite right after looking at full scale photos of the cockpit but then again i didn't get a chance to see Wick's actual cockpit.
thanks for the info on the Tamiya paints. right now i'm mixing my own but i'll try to keep those paint numbers in mind the next time i'm at the hobby store. interestingly, though, i did start with khaki and added black and white and a slight amount of yellow to come up with the color. so i guess i'm on the right track! thanks!
ORIGINAL: JIMMYMUGUREL
Hello Tim!
If you are using Tamya acrilics RLM 02 is something between xf-49 and xf-60 ( not working with such kind of paint, only auto-paints on R/C models) somekind of khaki with more yellow in it.
As I know RLM 70 was a verry dark green used for propeller blades.
Your's
Jimmy
ORIGINAL: tubig
....... pic 2-3: per this reference the cockpit should be RLM02 which is a very light greenish-gray color. i'm a little disappointed in my color matching. my RLM02 appears to be a little too green and too dark. i'm using Tamiya Acrylic paints.
....... pic 2-3: per this reference the cockpit should be RLM02 which is a very light greenish-gray color. i'm a little disappointed in my color matching. my RLM02 appears to be a little too green and too dark. i'm using Tamiya Acrylic paints.
If you are using Tamya acrilics RLM 02 is something between xf-49 and xf-60 ( not working with such kind of paint, only auto-paints on R/C models) somekind of khaki with more yellow in it.
As I know RLM 70 was a verry dark green used for propeller blades.
Your's
Jimmy
thanks for the info on the Tamiya paints. right now i'm mixing my own but i'll try to keep those paint numbers in mind the next time i'm at the hobby store. interestingly, though, i did start with khaki and added black and white and a slight amount of yellow to come up with the color. so i guess i'm on the right track! thanks!
I was verry curious to read about the 109 E interior colours.
Unfortunately did not find the Vol 1 ( your's ) but find vol. 2 & 3!
In early stages of war '39-40, RLM 04, 70 , 71 were common colours for camo schemes, lot of Me's were painted on upper surfaces totaly in RLM 70 ( black-green ), or in combination with RLM 04 or RLM 04+RLM 71 ( dark green ).
So it's possible to get ( RLM 70 ), from "outside" to "inside".
But in 1943-1944 when Helmut Wick's Me 109 flied, it's less probable to have RLM 70 "inside".
All the pics with Me109 E interior what I'v seen till now , none was wit " black" seat.
Here are at least seven motives to paint the seat in RLM 04
Your's
Jimmy
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RE: BT Bf109E-4
Tubig,
I think you are proving the Dave Platt theory: a scale plane is never finished, you just stop working on it. I know you are having fun and its great to see your work! Keep it up!
Carl
I think you are proving the Dave Platt theory: a scale plane is never finished, you just stop working on it. I know you are having fun and its great to see your work! Keep it up!
Carl
#380
Senior Member
RE: BT Bf109E-4
Oups!
Got to make a correction!
But in 1943-1944 when Helmut Wick's Me 109 flied, it's less probable to have RLM 70 "inside".
Wrong!
1940!
Sorry
Jimmy
Got to make a correction!
But in 1943-1944 when Helmut Wick's Me 109 flied, it's less probable to have RLM 70 "inside".
Wrong!
1940!
Sorry
Jimmy
#382
Thread Starter
RE: BT Bf109E-4
ORIGINAL: JIMMYMUGUREL
Oups!
Got to make a correction!
But in 1943-1944 when Helmut Wick's Me 109 flied, it's less probable to have RLM 70 "inside".
Wrong!
1940!
Sorry
Jimmy
Oups!
Got to make a correction!
But in 1943-1944 when Helmut Wick's Me 109 flied, it's less probable to have RLM 70 "inside".
Wrong!
1940!
Sorry
Jimmy
#383
Thread Starter
RE: BT Bf109E-4
i went back and took another look at the instrument panel with and without the spacer and it looks better without. i also made the instrument bezels. i borrowed an idea i saw from another thread about making identical bezels by putting bezel blanks on a brass rod and then sanding them all together. it was still a very labor intensive project but the end result looks ok.
pic 3: a few glue drops to simulate screws (ok, so they look more like rivets but i'm beginning to lose my motivation for this and i wanted a quick and easy way out) and with a little RLM66 paint on the panels and backing pieces to hide any balsa that may show through. i made a few more bits and pieces to add to the panel and should be able to put it all together tomorrow.
pic 3: a few glue drops to simulate screws (ok, so they look more like rivets but i'm beginning to lose my motivation for this and i wanted a quick and easy way out) and with a little RLM66 paint on the panels and backing pieces to hide any balsa that may show through. i made a few more bits and pieces to add to the panel and should be able to put it all together tomorrow.
#384
Thread Starter
RE: BT Bf109E-4
i think the last major piece i have to make for the cockpit is the armored plate behind the pilot. for now i just have a couple of pieces of plastic glued together. the top piece was heated and curved around a 1/2" dowel prior to glueing. more on this tomorrow.
#385
Senior Member
RE: BT Bf109E-4
[/quote]
yeah, according to what i've read the colors changed shortly after Wick's last flight in late '40. maybe that's why the photos of 109's that i've seen have the lighter green rather than the black-green. i do have a book on Wick with lots of photos of his aircraft. unfortunately, they're all in black and white making it difficult to tell.
[/quote]
http://www.xs4all.nl/~rhorta/jgscheme01.htm
A fine link to a fine site!
Enjoy the content!
I'm sure find interesting things!
About camo? ......
Seems that ,after the Battle of Britain started, in summer of 1940 , there are making changes in camo combinations .... in the meantime Wick's plane was twice overpainted ( probably with the newer 65+02+71 scheme? )
..... and a lot of other stuff ,goodies for a scalebuilder.
Pics 1 and 2 could be also a good clue.
Your's
Jimmy
#386
Thread Starter
RE: BT Bf109E-4
today i was able to add all the other bits and pieces and get everything painted up. i may try to get some rub-n-buff to add some weathering effects before installing. i would like to say i'm indebted to whoever sent me the file with the cockpit photo. i used the instruments from that which has everything in German/metric and had other little small items like the magneto switch lettering.
pic4: also managed to finish up the armored plate. the thick armor was made by covering 1mm balsa with card paper. then two coats of dope were brushed onto the paper to keep it from fuzzing. before gluing the balsa plate in place an aluminum tape backing was stuck onto the larger plastic plate (hard to see in the photo). finally before painting i countersunk three holes into the balsa plate. there on the full scale but i have absolutely no idea why they're there.
pic 5: probably nothing new here but i thought i would you show my poor man's lathe for making small round objects. comes in pretty handy when making control knobs and switches. model lab board (chemiwood for our friends across the little pond) ca's easily to the brass tube, sands easy and after shaping it snaps right off without damaging the part.
pic4: also managed to finish up the armored plate. the thick armor was made by covering 1mm balsa with card paper. then two coats of dope were brushed onto the paper to keep it from fuzzing. before gluing the balsa plate in place an aluminum tape backing was stuck onto the larger plastic plate (hard to see in the photo). finally before painting i countersunk three holes into the balsa plate. there on the full scale but i have absolutely no idea why they're there.
pic 5: probably nothing new here but i thought i would you show my poor man's lathe for making small round objects. comes in pretty handy when making control knobs and switches. model lab board (chemiwood for our friends across the little pond) ca's easily to the brass tube, sands easy and after shaping it snaps right off without damaging the part.
#389
Thread Starter
RE: BT Bf109E-4
thanks guys! carl, to tell the truth, i would love to be able to shrink myself down to scale and jump in. wouldn't that be cool.
today i think i'll paint the pilot and maybe even start gluing in all of the cockpit pieces if i have time.
today i think i'll paint the pilot and maybe even start gluing in all of the cockpit pieces if i have time.
#390
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RE: BT Bf109E-4
Tim,
Shrinking oneself down would be the ultimate! Look at the painting suggestions on the Aces of Iron web site. I used that for a guide painting my AofI pilot with Testors enamel and the suggested technique. I am very happy with the results with the Jungmeister pilot. I am going to start my second Wildcat this week. Your build may inspire me to do a better job and add some real detail. That will be one step closer to doing the Macchi C200.
Carl
Shrinking oneself down would be the ultimate! Look at the painting suggestions on the Aces of Iron web site. I used that for a guide painting my AofI pilot with Testors enamel and the suggested technique. I am very happy with the results with the Jungmeister pilot. I am going to start my second Wildcat this week. Your build may inspire me to do a better job and add some real detail. That will be one step closer to doing the Macchi C200.
Carl
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RE: BT Bf109E-4
I just saw this thread, hadn't bumped into it before. Very nice build!
I too was inspired by the Helmut Wicks ME-109 scheme, and painted my Kyosho ME-109 just like it a several months ago.
Good Luck Tim.
I too was inspired by the Helmut Wicks ME-109 scheme, and painted my Kyosho ME-109 just like it a several months ago.
Good Luck Tim.
#392
Thread Starter
RE: BT Bf109E-4
carl, i have been to that site and have saved the instructions and purchased the necessary oils to try it. however; the CJ pilot i'm using is a little on the rough side and i think if i try to use the oils for the effects that they will get stuck in the surface roughness and not come out making the pilot look splotchy. i've just started on the face but will have to wait now to finish until i can get some more paint so i'll have some time to think it over. like you said before, i've really got stuck in the cockpit and i'm finding it difficult to just say "that's enough!" because i keep finding new things to add.
great looking 109 corsair! did you use stencils for the graphics? (ie pennant and geschwader insignia?)
great looking 109 corsair! did you use stencils for the graphics? (ie pennant and geschwader insignia?)
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RE: BT Bf109E-4
Tim, my ME-109 is an electric conversion, I tranfered the image to white decal paper with my Inkjet printer, sealed it with clear krylon, then tranfered the decal after soaking it in water. With gas or glow you might have to go a different route. I believe there are people out there that devote their time in getting your graphics unto vinyl or some other medium, but I don't have any contacts handy with me now.
In any case here are some of the graphics I used which might be helpful, you will have to clean them up with windows paint or any graphics editor. Also here's a lnk that has plenty of insignias, click on the Jagdgeschwader 2.[link=http://www.lexikon-der-wehrmacht.de/Gliederungen/Jagdgeschwader/Inhalt.htm]http://www.lexikon-der-wehrmacht.de/Gliederungen/Jagdgeschwader/Inhalt.htm[/link]
In any case here are some of the graphics I used which might be helpful, you will have to clean them up with windows paint or any graphics editor. Also here's a lnk that has plenty of insignias, click on the Jagdgeschwader 2.[link=http://www.lexikon-der-wehrmacht.de/Gliederungen/Jagdgeschwader/Inhalt.htm]http://www.lexikon-der-wehrmacht.de/Gliederungen/Jagdgeschwader/Inhalt.htm[/link]
#395
Thread Starter
RE: BT Bf109E-4
hi all, i would like to get your opinion on something. i was looking for a way to simulate the look of dirt as it settles on objects in the cockpit like the instrument panel. maybe this has been done before but i don't recall having seen it. i dry brushed baby powder (actually it was Desinex foot powder because i have no baby powder ) on a couple of items and, by removing almost all of it, i left just a hint of powder. what do you think? too much? i kind of like the effect. (with and without flash)
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RE: BT Bf109E-4
Gary at Get Stencils can make thin dry transfers. He uses a photo process so it’s more expensive then his stencil work. When I have something with detail I will use him. I have made decals and they work pretty well on small items. May be some 600 sand paper or buffing wheel? You don't want a "bad" pilot in such a nice build.
Well Tim just keep it going till you decide to work on something else. No hurry right. You are doing a very nice job, really makes me want to spend a "bit" more time on my builds for something just a little more special.
Carl
Well Tim just keep it going till you decide to work on something else. No hurry right. You are doing a very nice job, really makes me want to spend a "bit" more time on my builds for something just a little more special.
Carl
#398
Thread Starter
RE: BT Bf109E-4
thanks for the input skypilot and carl. i think it's a keeper.
i agree. i have email gary about his stencils and also ktank at tanks-hangar.com. i'm trying to get the stencils lined up now so they'll be ready when it's time for them. just haven't gotten around to providing them with the info they need. a buffing wheel....hmmmm, hadn't thought about that. i'll see if that helps.
ORIGINAL: carlbecker
Gary at Get Stencils can make thin dry transfers. He uses a photo process so it’s more expensive then his stencil work. When I have something with detail I will use him. I have made decals and they work pretty well on small items. May be some 600 sand paper or buffing wheel? You don't want a "bad" pilot in such a nice build.
Gary at Get Stencils can make thin dry transfers. He uses a photo process so it’s more expensive then his stencil work. When I have something with detail I will use him. I have made decals and they work pretty well on small items. May be some 600 sand paper or buffing wheel? You don't want a "bad" pilot in such a nice build.
#399
Thread Starter
RE: BT Bf109E-4
another example of the "dustying" effect on the rear ledge.
pic 2: after playing with the powder (you can see i have a little more along the sidewall) i starting gluing in the pieces.
pic 3-5: a with my partially painted pilot.
pic 6-7: finally, i taped the armored plate to the canopy and placed the canopy in position for the overall effect.
pic 2: after playing with the powder (you can see i have a little more along the sidewall) i starting gluing in the pieces.
pic 3-5: a with my partially painted pilot.
pic 6-7: finally, i taped the armored plate to the canopy and placed the canopy in position for the overall effect.
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RE: BT Bf109E-4
Tim,
He does like a bit un-smooth but it looks like you could still add some color to him. It really brings out the real face. I did not worry to much about cloth or leather. Your map is a great effect!!!
Keep it up.
Carl
He does like a bit un-smooth but it looks like you could still add some color to him. It really brings out the real face. I did not worry to much about cloth or leather. Your map is a great effect!!!
Keep it up.
Carl