jeffk464

Skyflyer

My Feedback: (122)

And so, we continue to sit back and shrug our shoulders in impotence while foreign countries with their cottage industries or sweatshop manufacturing build everything for us. Within a generation there'll be no one left in this country with the knowlege, training or worse, no inclination, to make anything. Half of the people I see at fun flys even lack the abilility to assemble....much less repair their ARFs.[]

HaveBlue

unfortunately this sort of undercutting is not limited to our hobby.. I am seeing the repercussions of such at our work place ( a chemical factory).. but enough with doom and gloom for now..

I hate to say it but I bought a CMP spitfire..mainly because it was one of the better looking models in the ARF range.. I also bought the suggested 1.08 for it .. but when I mentioned this on another forum I got bagged out for trying to run a two stroke in a warbird even though I believe that the FSR will be a better performer than the YS and such that the other guys had..

This thread has made my day to see you guys emphasising the use of that great engine..THANK YOU.. now to get a bird like this me 109..that would be so cool.. although I have to admit I just love the emil.. but these "G" versions are fantastic..thanks to all for sharing..makes me drool

Skyflyer

My Feedback: (122)

If that delightful little can of worms is for my last impersonal comments...I've opened a few of them thru the years, Jeff.
Nothing negative was directed toward any of the "weavers" of this thread...we are, after all, just bee-essing cybernetically. Maybe it's time to close the circle...if anyone out there has a decent set of 5-1/4" wheels, used or otherwise, that are suitable for my non-competition Platt ME109 perhaps you'd let me know. Gentlemen...it was a pleasure. Jerry

fly109

My Feedback: (1)

I think you may be referring to that picture I showed where I put a Dubro tire on my 109. And if so, please allow me to referr back to my original statement wherein I said that a (top of the line set of wheels and tires) may not be for everyone. I mentioned you may not want to put them on your first warbird or something like a 60 size model. I certainly didn't use expensive tires on my first or second DP109s, I used the Williams Brothers and did a little "gingerbreading" and they looked fine. I don't have Glennis wheels and tires on my Hanger 9 P-51 ARF Miss America, cause I can't justify them there either. My Sport jets use Cheap off-the-shelf wheels and tires because they do the job. What I was trying to say was that at some point, in your modeling you may want to put fourth your best effort. And if so, you may want to have tires and wheels that are equal to the model. Thats all. And if so, the wheels in question (Glennis) are about the best game in town (if not the only game in town) and are what the doctor ordered when the job calls for performance and looks over cost and weight.

As far as a rich mans hobby, scale modeling? If anyone thinks I was suggesting that this is a rich mans hobby you are way wrong. My big 109 (the one in the black and white photos) was built for less than 200 dollars. I also built the gear myself for less than 65.00. This hobby is what you make it. The reason I will gladly pay for the Glennis stuff is because I have gone the route to make my own tires and wheels and I choose now to put that time into the model itself. I would applaud anyone that could come into the industry and make a grerat set of economical wheels and tires for our scale models - heck I might be the first in line. But its probably not going to happen. Why? Economics. The cost to tool up, buy raw materials and produce in such low numbers as we scale modelers represent would leave this new business scrambling to keep the cost below what we see now. I would bet they would go out of business or have to raise their prices well above - its that simple. And for those that think there is a gold mine at the end of the scale modeling rainbow, please have at it, I need a set of 5.25 Russian tires for my next project, Until then I will still put Glennis tires and wheels on my competition models and jets and use tower hobbies for my ARFs and non-scale models.

Timthetoolman1

My Feedback: (6)

Could we get back to 109s. Please.
When you order the sort kit from some companies they don't have the plans so I think I'll order them now and look over them. What kit cutters are there that do the DP 109? I might order one kit and build the other from scratch.

NoFlaps

My Feedback: (131)

Did you build the 109 shown in the pic ?
How did it fly without flaps ?
did it ever wreck ?
i'm asking because i just bought the very plane in that pic from someone in ohio.
=)
how old is it now ?
any tips would be great!

Sean

NoFlaps

My Feedback: (131)

I just bought a used DP 109, and am considering putting a gas engine in it, would a G20 be qual to a 108 u think ?
Any suggestions ?

Timthetoolman1

My Feedback: (6)

If I did the math right 1.08 ci is 17.7 cc. I know a couple of guys building some 85ish inch FW190s with G38. I think they are Ziroli though. How much does it weigh?

Baldeagle

My Feedback: (7)

Can someone tell me where the CG on the Platt 109 is from the wing leading edge. Thanks Rich

NoFlaps

My Feedback: (131)

I donno, i haven't picked it up from the seller yet.


As it turns out, it is the plane shown in this thread that doesn't have flaps.
I'm considering opening the wing to add flaps.
Has anyoone ever fooled around with making leading edge extensions ?

thunder21

My Feedback: (2)

I haven't seen working slats on any 109 models. I'm not convinced they would work at the scale we're talking about.

Here's a good reference page on their operation to peruse.

http://109lair.hobbyvista.com/techre...lats/slats.htm

NoFlaps

My Feedback: (131)

VERY IMFORMATIVE!

Thanks a bunch!
It's a trickier thing than I expected, yet simple in intent and functionality at 1:1 scale.[8D]

Jeff Foley

My Feedback: (45)

Rich,

I built three of these about 20 years ago.....I don't remember where Dave showed it on the plans. BUT, I do remember that it flew and ground handled better with the CG about an inch ahead of where he shows it. Hopefully, someone will dig out their plans and give you a measurement. You will need very little elevator travel and a lot of aileron travel. On takeoff, you have to feed in right rudder as you advance the throttle. Other than that.....it's a piece of cake.

Jeff

Skyflyer

My Feedback: (122)

I just pulled the plans from my kit... The balance point falls 7-1/2 aft of the leading edge at the fuselage. I'll have to make a note of Jeff's comment about moving the CG forward. Jerry

Baldeagle

My Feedback: (7)

Thanks a bunch Jeff and Jerry. That's is what I needed to know. Rich

NoFlaps

My Feedback: (131)

Okay, I asked about it's weight, and it's right at 14 lbs
[8D]

tr2000

Hello All,

I am building Dave's 109 now and I have built the wing with flaps and have put some major reinforcements into the center of the wing, it just looked so weak and vulnerable. I have an Evolution 26cc gasser for power. I am planning on a rear mounted elevator servo, I just can't seem to get the linkage to work robustly enough for a 26cc gasser up front. I've also reinforced the vertical fin for that unplanned landing that lands on it's back. Does anybody see any problems with my modifications regarding balancing?

Skyflyer

My Feedback: (122)

I can't speak with authority about this aspect of Platt's ME109 since I have not as yet completed the wing for that particular plane. Generally, I try my darndest to make a scale airplane look as scale as I can. Sticking servos on the exterior of a fuselage would be my last option...especially when dealing with a long fuselage (balance concerns.) Long servo extension wires can cause radio problems. Lately, I've become an advocate of carbon fibre pushrods because of their strength, rigidity and lightness. So long as I can provide them with support in the event that they flex, and keep them isolated from battery and servo wires, they're great. Central Hobbies sells a variety of them and some neat titanium threaded ends that attach with JB Weld. 'hope this helps in some form or other. Jerry

rrudytoo

My Feedback: (27)

tr2000,

I'm with Skyflier with regards to servo placement. As long as the clevises fit nicely into the control horns with an absolute minimum of slop, a carbon fiber pushrod will function perfectly well. Our warbirds don't require the short, direct links that the aerobatics guys must have. The 109 has a relatively short nose that would require a LOT of weight to offset a tail-mounted servo.

Per Jeff Foley's remark in another post, be sure to set your center of gravity 1" ahead of where it is shown on the plans. He states that this will improve both flight and ground handling characteristics. Jeff should know!

Good luck and keep us posted on your progress, Bud.

Al

tr2000

Guys,
Thanks for the advice, I think it's worth one more try to get the linkage right before I go and put a servo back there. My problem with the linkage is I have a 1/8" steel wire that has been bent to connect to two elevators, and I have a piece of brass that has been cut to look like a horn with a hole through it to be soldered onto the middle of the wire, this setup will hook onto a wooden dowl with clevices that goes to the servo bay. No matter how I try, I can't get the brass horn to attach to the steel wire with solder or silver solder. My plumber said they have to be braised, I'm just alittle out of my current skill set braising something together. Someone in my club told me I should JB weld them together, but I think over time with normal airframe vibrations that JB weld might let go and let's face it once that linkage is in place it's going to be in there forever.

Cory

rrudytoo

My Feedback: (27)

tr2000,

You shouldn't be experiencing problems with soldering the brass horn to the steel wire. The only things I can think of would be that the two items aren't clean and that the type of solder and/or flux are not correct. Try this:

Clean the brass horn and the steel wire with soap and water and towel dry.
Sand the surfaces to be soldered using a fairly coarse grit. This gives "bite" to the solder.
Clean the two items again with acetone.
Clamp the steel wire in a vise or other holding fixture with the horn in place.
Use only Stay-Brite Silver Solder! This stuff flat works.........I've used it for years for mechanical joints.
Heat the steel wire until the liquid flux sizzles when a drop is applied. AVOID INHALING THE VAPORS!!!
Use the flux sparingly and apply to the joint. One or two drops should do the job.
Touch the solder to the joint with the heat applied and it should flow quickly and evenly.
Remove the heat source and allow the metal to cool.
Wash off the part with clean water, towel dry and you have it.

Hope this helps.

Al

tr2000

rrudytoo,

I ended up taking the steel wire and the brass horn to my local gas station, where the mechanic I know attempted to weld the two together ended up melting the brass. All ended well when he made me a new horn out of steel and welded it perfectly to the wire (strong as can be). So, no servo in the tail after all...and I'm printing out your instructions on soldering for the next time. Almost ready to fiberglass the bird now, I'm working in m basement so I'm leaning toward using Z-Poxy finishing resin on 3/4 oz cloth to keep peace in the house (no smell). Hopefully it will sand OK.

Thanks, Cory

Skyflyer

My Feedback: (122)

Good for you, Cory! You are to be admired...so many guys wouldn't even try to build a plane. As you progress, learn new building techniques and enjoy the satisfaction of creating and flying a plane that started out as a box of wood and assorted junk, you will be motivated to do and learn more. The fun's in the getting there! Good luck and happy landings. Jerry

JIMMYMUGUREL

Hello Fly109
Hello you all!
I'm living in Romania....somewere in Eastern-Europe.
A not so rich country with a medium of 250$/month for living!.
That not mean that just all others with up250 can have a hobby ( RC flying ).
All hobbyes demand a sacrifice: time,family,money, in resonable percent!
I belong to the other under 250$/mont but that is not a such problem to stop in modelling.
As you can see from the photos, modelling is beautifull, even with a small budget!
On my 109 I'm using a 1.08 Magnum ( 18ccm ) 1700mm wingspan and 4300grms.
About wheels?
As you can see, not scale products.....but with a little work.....
I have seen an YS 140!
I'd like to have one but......
Luckyly i have a friend who will help borrowing to me his engine ( YS 140 ) for a test flight on my new P-47 project!
So, for me is sad to read on yuor posts, that money is a problem ..... for you!

A Happy New Year to you All!

G.Conrad Manea ..................Jimmy ( jimmymugurel )