DocYates

My Feedback: (102)

I plan on following this thread as well, she is a gorgeous bird, hope we get some more flying reports soon.
Tommy

oriole

My Feedback: (19)

kinverflyer,

Can you briefly explain how you were able to apply the engine and gun exhaust streaks to the finish.

Oriole

kinverflyer

I use the MIG (www.migproductions.com) rust and smoke pigment set, this is a set of powder paints brushed on dry with a soft brush, if I don't like the result it wipes off. I also smudged the exhaust soot using my thumb. When I have the desired result I seal the whole plane with a light sprayed coat of enamel satin fuel proof.

Richard L.

My Feedback: (24)

Nothing a little double action airbrush can't help:

fldmshlschroe

My Feedback: (3)

kniver,,,

did you have to add any nose or tail weight,,,

do you have any pics of your internal setup????


thanks,

John

kinverflyer

I havent balanced her yet, I am waiting the oleos which I am picking up today, test flight Sunday, I will sort a photo out of the internals.

lownloud

I too am wondering about weight, the plane is quite large and the 109's have a long tail.

Which is great for flying and taxi but may require some weight to balance out.

this is a gorgeous, gorgeous bird. Good job guys, I hope you guys make good money on this one.

I have decided on a YS 120

alanc

we dont make money, we re-invest it into other birds!!! mention has been made of the saito 100 being no good for the 109, look, in the warbirds thread, at the vid of the prototype, flown with 91RCV, with less go then the 100, for me, although i dont know the performance figures of the 100, i would think it would be ok, either that, or carve chunks out the cowl!!

kniverflyer will have the first one in the air in the uk, bound to be a vid following!!
mention has also been made of the hot melt glue, holding the fomers in, it is NOT hot melt glue, it is indeed resin, hope you all enjoy your 109s, dont delay in deciding if you want one---next YT designed bird is being laid up at the factory NOW!--delivery will probably be around christmas/ early new year and no, i cant tell you what it is

flyrc78

My Feedback: (29)

I guess my thought on the needed nose weight is this. Im putting a Saito 150 in it, there is extra weight there. The head sticking out the bottom doesn't bother me to bad because you need to get cooling air to that motor somehow, and there aren't many options for doing that. Also using onboard glow for it. Might as well be useful weight.

flyrc78

My Feedback: (29)

Here are a couple pics on what it takes to cut the cowl for a Saito 1.50. And also my helpers inspecting the new airplane box.

flyrc78

My Feedback: (29)

Decided to make a few modifications tonight. Never been fond of the tanks with the neck that comes through the firewall. Sealed that with ply and put in a 16 oz sullivan tank. Also removed the wood from the former that makes the mount for the tank, and put a plank across the bottom that is expoxied to the glass on the fuse bottom to make a lowered fuel tank mount. Saitos tend to draw very well, especialy inverted. As the kit was set up, the tank centerline was an inch above the carb center. Now they are center to center. I just ziptied the tank to the plank i epoxied in. After i install the onboard glow, battery for the glow, and flight battery over the top of the tank i will rebrace the former. These steps made for more work, but i think saved some hassles later on. I also reinforced the firewall with more epoxy, and fiberglass strips on the backside.

fldmshlschroe

My Feedback: (3)

flyrc78,, i thankyou for the pics,, but can I be a pain,,,,, is it possible you could post just one more pic that is horisontal to the cowl so you can see from the side how much the valves stick out????? really debating between the saito 125 or the 150.....



Thanks,,

John

rrudytoo

My Feedback: (27)

I admit to being a bit surprised by how little the 1.50 sticks out from the cowl. I have a 1.50 engine myself and its a pretty big engine. I would have expected it to protrude much more than it does. One thing for sure, you're not going to be underpowered!

Great build thread, Bud. Keep it coming!

Al

flyrc78

My Feedback: (29)

here is the side view you wanted. If remember right, the new 1.25 is supposed to be about the same size as the 1.00? Not sure they. If you have one already, measure the hight from the mounting lug to the top of the valve cover. I believe the 120/150/180 are all about the same dimensionaly. The I dimension in my saito book(mount side of mounting lug to valve cover) says 110mm for the 120/150/180. And it says the 100 is 106mm. I baught the 150 cause i got a realy good buy on it from the Hobby shop, brand new. That and it is a 13 lb airplane. Dave

wulf190

My Feedback: (19)

Nice plane. I've thought that they've done a nice job on this ARF, and I'm not much of an ARF guy. But this one and the B25 look really nicely done. Certainly weathering is to make this a fine plane.

I've got 90 degree Spring Airs in my Skyshark with oleos and honestly, I think the plane handles a heck of a lot better on the ground with those than with the lower angled ones. Problem with shimming on a 109 is the wheels are not likely to get all the way in there without a flat mount to the retracts, or, rather, they'll bash into the top of the sheeting with the back side of the wheel. I wasn't sure about the 90 degree business, but fly off grass and when I got to the field and taxied around mine and my pals with the lower angled gear, mine was a heck of a lot less squirrely and I felt a lot better about them. Not real noticeable to be that honest, especially once the doors are on.

Mike

SJN

wow, I have a 150 too, and it is a huge engine.

If you put something smaller in it that doesn`t protude , wouldn`t you have to butcher the cowl anyway for some cooling ?

flyrc78

My Feedback: (29)

Thats a point i have tried to make several times. Scale is awsome, but there is also practicality. This will be a great looking plane when done anyway, even with a cylinder head sticking out the bottom.

Sturtz

My Feedback: (20)

Myself and a couple of my buds have tried the completely scale look of an inclosed cowl complete with porting the molded air intakes and several other cooling ideas. Nothing but a pain in the rear. Even when flying wide open the engines never got the cooling they needed. Got hot,, leaned out and deadsticked. Ruined one engine trying it on a FW 190 D9.
I have a Saito150 and love it. Tons of power and sips fuel.
Your mounting job looks fine. Plus nothing is more pretty than a set of Saito valve covers. They should make jewelry outta them.
"Honey,,, here's your diamond encrusted Saito 40 ring and maching necklace you've always wanted."


I might change my color scheme to this when I get mine. Not sure yet,, it's so dropdead gorgeous as it is.
Keep the thread GOING !

flyrc78

My Feedback: (29)

Some reason i don't think my wife would like a diamond encrusted Saito anything. Hehe. She is pretty understanding when it comes to this hobby, but i think that would realy be pushing it. Your right though, those Saito valve covers look good sticking out the bottom of anything with the way they do them....Dave

kinverflyer

Mines ready for its test flight, with a Laser 120 I have had to add 12oz of lead bolted to the engine and the nicad is well forward even so she has still come out pretty well as per spec 12lb 2oz.

flyrc78

My Feedback: (29)

Installed the servos, reciever/switch harness into the fuse this afternoon. Wife is out of town this weekend so i am free to build as i please without "honeydo" interuption. I am using all Hitec servos. An 85 mini on throttle on a custom mount on the fuse side, as i believe the straiter the shot with the linkage, the better. I put a 625MG on the rudder, and a 645MG on the Elevator. I then mounted the reciever on a couple of ply rails i glued between the first two formers after the firewall. I haven't done anything with the wing yet. I want to see if after i join them, i can mount all the retract equipment on the top of the wing itself. I think that would simplify things a bit by doing so. Other then what i have mentioned for modifications, i think that will be about it for changes. I think after reading what wulf190 about the ground handling and using 90 degree retracts, i may not wedge the retracts. May bug you scale guys a bit, but i fly off a grass field also, and the easier the ground handling, the better.....Time to start on the wing....Dave

flyrc78

My Feedback: (29)

Well, decided to mock up the fuse again with the cowling, canopy, engine, spinner, tail all on it. Glad i did. Guys, the spinner you get from kmp may present a bit of a problem with the 120/150 size engines. And maybe even 100s. When i went to bolt mine on, the way the tip of the spinner is machined deeply, it hits the adapter nut and holds it off the backplate about a quarter of an inch or so. I left the adapter off for the mock up pictures. Guess i will be calling Don at KMP on Monday and see if there are any options here, and let him know of the problem, so a design change can be made to the spinner. I suspect that the spinner workds around the RCV 91 it was flight tested on. Everyone has there own engine preference. Ill let you guys know what he says.....Dave

Richard L.

My Feedback: (24)

How long is your adapter nut? Mine are a couple of short jam nuts, so the spinner might work just fine.

flyrc78

My Feedback: (29)

It is a center bolt spinner, that is the problem. The adapter nut bottoms out on the end of the motor shaft also leaving a 1/16" gap between adapter nut and prop nut. Then the spinner bottoms out on the nut. Spinner will also hit the shaft if you take the adapter nut off and just hold it in place. It is the nut KMP gives you, happens to be the same thread as the 150

Richard L.

My Feedback: (24)

I just measured the retract angle on a front view in Photoshop, and it turned out to be around 77°. Therefore, 75° or 74° retracts will look and work great, provided that the dihedral angle on the model is pretty close to that off the full size. I believe Spring Air makes 74° retracts, and Robart #532RS retracts are 75°: [link]http://www.robart.com/retracts/drawings/532RS.pdf[/link]

However, with Robart retracts, the air cylinders must be mounted facing toward the fuselage.