first warbird
#1
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From: Ravenna,
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I need a little advice from all of you. I have been flying for 3 years now. Last year I flew a 4* and this year I built a midstar. I am very comfortable with both planes. I would like to get into warbirds and was wondering if it is too soon. I am looking at the CMP Zero. I know warbirds are more difficult to fly than your average plane and the last thing I want to do is plant one in the dirt because I'm not able to handle it.
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#2
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From: Olathe, KS
Samsdad,
I don't believe it's ever too soon, as long as you have confidence in your own abilities. Don't be afraid to ask someone to help you. It's nice to have a more experienced warbird pilot help you with trimming out your aircraft. The Zero seems to be a very good flying airplane, although I have no axis planes. I fly the American and British Warbirds. My first warbird was a Spitfire, then a Corsair, then a P-51, and whatever else I choose. Warbirds are not trainers or aerobats. You should never depart Mother Earth until you have flying speed. Watch the landings as not to get too slow and tip stahl. You are going to get a whole lot of advice here, as does every newbie that asks this question. You have to make the final decision as to when you are ready. I taught myself and did the best I could. Yes, I have had a few mishaps, but overall, I've done quite well. I feel confident enough to fly any plane I take to the field. I have been doing this for about 12 years now. The important thing is to pay attention to the basics. I highly recommend a flight simulator with Warbirds on the program to start with. There is no monetary loss when you crash on the sim. Practice, practice, practice! I do all the time. I have the G2 flight sim and I fly all of the Warbirds, jets and civilian planes. I fly on line with other R/C pilots also. Good luck.
"Keep 'Em Flying!"
Flak
I don't believe it's ever too soon, as long as you have confidence in your own abilities. Don't be afraid to ask someone to help you. It's nice to have a more experienced warbird pilot help you with trimming out your aircraft. The Zero seems to be a very good flying airplane, although I have no axis planes. I fly the American and British Warbirds. My first warbird was a Spitfire, then a Corsair, then a P-51, and whatever else I choose. Warbirds are not trainers or aerobats. You should never depart Mother Earth until you have flying speed. Watch the landings as not to get too slow and tip stahl. You are going to get a whole lot of advice here, as does every newbie that asks this question. You have to make the final decision as to when you are ready. I taught myself and did the best I could. Yes, I have had a few mishaps, but overall, I've done quite well. I feel confident enough to fly any plane I take to the field. I have been doing this for about 12 years now. The important thing is to pay attention to the basics. I highly recommend a flight simulator with Warbirds on the program to start with. There is no monetary loss when you crash on the sim. Practice, practice, practice! I do all the time. I have the G2 flight sim and I fly all of the Warbirds, jets and civilian planes. I fly on line with other R/C pilots also. Good luck.
"Keep 'Em Flying!"
Flak
#3
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From: Fairfax,
VA
The CMP Zero is a real floater and slick. Mine was 11 pounds with a laser 120. I also had a OS 108 in it. It will fly well (scale) with a Saito 100 or OS 91fx. You might want to search for the many treads on it. A wide track is handy which the Zero or P-47 has. Most warbirds come out tail heavy so plan before to put everything as far forward as possible if it looks like a short nose moment. With some creative moving my GP PT-17 came in at 13 pounds using a Saito 120 and no lead. The plans called for 18 ounces of lead in a box. You don't have to put a big heavy motor in the front to balance most planes. Saying that I did have to put 2 pounds of lead in the front of my 83" Claude.
Carl
Carl
#4
I'm just about to get my first warbird. Been flying for 7yrs.
It's a Giant Scale Byron Mustang. I'm kind of struggling with the motor choice. either the original Byron 50 with the reduction drive unit, or a G-62 with a mick Reeves reduction unit.
There are only a few major concerns with any warbird. You'll have to carry good speed for take-off and landing. Warbirds are typically heavily wing loaded, so it takes more speed to keep them in the air. You can't just pull the throttle back to idle and glide it in. You'll have to fly it in under power and get it lined up over the runway before you back off completely on the throttle.
If your using flaps:
Lets say you miss your landing, and your going around for another shot at it. Roll on the throttle and get your flying speed up again. DO NOT bank the wing hard over and pull back on the elevator. You'll loose all your lift and the plane will stall into the dirt. When the flaps are down, easy on the turns. Fly it gently and smooth. Flaps cause drag--keep the power up.
Drop your gear on your downwind leg. That way you can SEE it come down. Or, drop your gear while doing a low flyby. Just be sure that it's down and locked before you come in for a landing.
If your gear should fail--lets say only 1 main comes down:
Retract that gear. Pull it back up. Better to land it LEVEL on the belly and tear up some covering and sheeting--than to land it on 1 wheel and risk a cartwheel. Cartwheels don't usually turn out too well.
Maintanence, Maintanence, Maintenance Same as any giant scale plane. I check the servo screws, horns, pushrods, batteries every flight on my other giant planes. Gas engines vibrate a lot. Loctite is your friend.
Warbirds are not for the lazy flier who just wants to put it together and fly it every weekend without checking it out all the time. If you want to build it and fly it untill it crashes--get a Stick or a Kadet Senior.
It's a Giant Scale Byron Mustang. I'm kind of struggling with the motor choice. either the original Byron 50 with the reduction drive unit, or a G-62 with a mick Reeves reduction unit.
There are only a few major concerns with any warbird. You'll have to carry good speed for take-off and landing. Warbirds are typically heavily wing loaded, so it takes more speed to keep them in the air. You can't just pull the throttle back to idle and glide it in. You'll have to fly it in under power and get it lined up over the runway before you back off completely on the throttle.
If your using flaps:
Lets say you miss your landing, and your going around for another shot at it. Roll on the throttle and get your flying speed up again. DO NOT bank the wing hard over and pull back on the elevator. You'll loose all your lift and the plane will stall into the dirt. When the flaps are down, easy on the turns. Fly it gently and smooth. Flaps cause drag--keep the power up.
Drop your gear on your downwind leg. That way you can SEE it come down. Or, drop your gear while doing a low flyby. Just be sure that it's down and locked before you come in for a landing.
If your gear should fail--lets say only 1 main comes down:
Retract that gear. Pull it back up. Better to land it LEVEL on the belly and tear up some covering and sheeting--than to land it on 1 wheel and risk a cartwheel. Cartwheels don't usually turn out too well.
Maintanence, Maintanence, Maintenance Same as any giant scale plane. I check the servo screws, horns, pushrods, batteries every flight on my other giant planes. Gas engines vibrate a lot. Loctite is your friend.
Warbirds are not for the lazy flier who just wants to put it together and fly it every weekend without checking it out all the time. If you want to build it and fly it untill it crashes--get a Stick or a Kadet Senior.
#6
All of us are in agreement here,take your time and don't force the plane off the field.Same goes for landing,elevator and throttle,elevator and throttle.You must fly these planes off and on.Once you become confident you will have a ball.Go to a local WAR BIRD day and watch and listen,ask questions.I get like a kid when I get out on the field during a WBD,I love it.
Tom
Tom
#7
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From: Olathe, KS
Prop Wash,
I am a Kid. I may be 52 years young, but I'm still a Kid! I refuse to grow up. Peter Pan has nothing on me, except Ferry Dust. Warbirds are a thrill a minute, whether they be full scale or models. Trainers, areobats, helicopters, and all the rest take a back seat. They just don't get my blood pumping like the sight of a Warbird. Look at a nicely detailed Cessna 172, then look at a nicely detailed P-51. There is no comparrison. How about a P-40 completing a 3 ft. off the deck down the middle of the runway pass? That shark's mouth and guns blazing look of that aircraft makes me feel good! I realize this is my affliction, but I do love it so.
"Keep 'Em Flying!"
Flak
I am a Kid. I may be 52 years young, but I'm still a Kid! I refuse to grow up. Peter Pan has nothing on me, except Ferry Dust. Warbirds are a thrill a minute, whether they be full scale or models. Trainers, areobats, helicopters, and all the rest take a back seat. They just don't get my blood pumping like the sight of a Warbird. Look at a nicely detailed Cessna 172, then look at a nicely detailed P-51. There is no comparrison. How about a P-40 completing a 3 ft. off the deck down the middle of the runway pass? That shark's mouth and guns blazing look of that aircraft makes me feel good! I realize this is my affliction, but I do love it so.
"Keep 'Em Flying!"
Flak
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From: Springtown,
TX
In my opinion, the ARF's (particularly the H9 arfs because I have experience with them) are a natural step along the progression from sport to scale. Why? Because they have a little of both worlds in them. THey are very forgiving, but you still have to learn things like rudder control, as well as flying the plane to the ground. I would recommend anyone wanting to get into warbirds to purchase an ARF first--a sport scale version of what they are wanting, and fly it until the wings come off. This will help prepare you for what's coming, but in a very forgiving way! Also, if you crash it, you don't have several hundred hours into the build! Don't overpower it, and you'll really have a winner! Also, cubs are good steps along the way--good to train on for warbirds and other scale flyers!
#9
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From: Ravenna,
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Thanks 2slow. Are there any other arf manufacturers out there that produce a sport scale warbird? I would like to get a zero .40 size.
Thanks
Thanks
#10
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From: Ravenna,
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Thanks 2slow. Are there any other arf manufacturers out there that produce a sport scale warbird? I would like to get a zero .40 size.
Thanks
Thanks
#11
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From: Springtown,
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I think World Models makes a zero, but I'm not 100% sure on that one. Zero's are harder to find than some others, for whatever reason. Others may know of a Zero ARF.





