evt

My Feedback: (1)

I have tried cheveron perfect paint, don't think they make it any more, with great results. Held up to 15% glow fuel. I've tried luster coat and that works but not many correct color war bird colors. I've used Pactra, same thing.

I have a german subject now and color and ease of use is what I am after and testors model paints have what I want. Used the paint for details and insignias and sealed it with lustercoat flat with good results holding up to glow fuel.

Has anyone used testor for the whole job and sealed it with flat clear with good results??

any other RLM paint suggestions that hold up to at least 15% glow fuel and are easy to use?

thanks, Ed

Broken

Most model paint that I am aware of (such as top-flite) is rated up to 15% nitro. Beyond that I think you need some automotive grade paint. I don't think anything from a spray can will handle nitro beyond 15%...???

evt

My Feedback: (1)

Luster coat is top flight and I know that it works up to 15%, but like I said they don't have the colors or accuracy I need.

Not sure auto paint will hold up to 15% nitro either.


has anyone use luster coat flat clear over solid testors with good results?

Richard L.

My Feedback: (24)

I've used LustreKote flat clear over Model Masters acrylics with good results. If you plan to use over 15% nitro, then use Nelsons flat clear over water based acrylics.

evt

My Feedback: (1)

Thats good news Richard. I've looked at Nelsons before but never used it. Would that be a better seal to nitro on the model masters or will it only work on the water based stuff?

Warbird colors is the water based paint I have read about. I Know it needs a cross linker to stand up to fuel but have also heard the crosslinker is hard on the airbrush.

Richard L.

My Feedback: (24)

Since Nelsons clear is water based, it would work better on water based paint. Model Masters Acryl is a great line of paint. I use it all the time.

evt

My Feedback: (1)

Great than I can get my paint. They seem to have the best german colors and they flow through my brush well. 15% is all I use and I was a little wary it might eat through. Thanks, Ed

E Henry

Has anybody tried Tamiyas paint? They have alot of military colors. I painted a test piece and put some 15% on it and it seemed to hold up well. Thanks Erik

E Henry

Has anybody tried Tamiyas paint? They have alot of military colors. I painted a test piece and put some 15% on it and it seemed to hold up well. Thanks Erik

warbirdcolors

My Feedback: (5)

WarbirdColors is a one-part, water-based, fuel-proof, acrylic polyurethane finish. Utilizing the cross-linker, WarbirdColors has been tested, and passed, using glow fuel, gasoline, and 100% nitro. I don't recommend the 100% nitro, but it passed the test...so said Dave Platt.

You can see his review in this thread:

http://www.rcscalebuilder.com/forum/...937&PN=2&TPN=1

THere is also some info in this thread:

http://www.rcscalebuilder.com/forum/...620&PN=1&TPN=1

The potential problem with WarbirdColors and airburshes is not the crosslinker. it is the fact that WarbirdColors is a high-solids, high-pigment content product, which when not thinned enough, can easily clog the small tips on an airbrush. You need to thin it (maybe up to 40-50%) for an airbrush, using water( some have used alcohol) and use a "fat" tip. It works best in a small detail gun, either conventional or hvlp systems.

Thanks,

Chuck Graves

The Raven

Tamiya spray cans are a synthetic lacquer. The only thing that will remove them (trust me) is ethanol/methanol with some serious scrubbing. It's probably fine for model aircraft use but it may be worth a test.

PS. I'm a plastic scale modeller and found Tamiya aerosol to be one of the hardest paints to remove, which could mean it's ideal for you.

P-47guy

My Feedback: (4)

I used Tamiyas water based acryllics with an old Badger air brush on my P-47 (see my gallery) with excellent results, but to be safe I did use a flat clear as a top coat (also to "seal" the decals...).

This was my first warbird, 1st glassing project and 1st painted airplane (all previous were monokoted), so the results weren't perfect as this was more of a learning experience for me. However, I think it's still pretty impressive.

carlbecker

My Feedback: (3)

Nelson System3 paint is good up to 10% nitro. Use the crosslinker if you use higher nitro. It will go over Testor's MM no problems. I let the Testor's dry for a day or two before sealing. I use 10% and always add crosslinker to the clear.

Carl

evt

My Feedback: (1)

Chuck,
Thanks for clearing that up. Maybe I'll have to give your system a try. Nothing is easier than water based and I have a fat tip and needle for my brush. Looks like you have all the colors I need to.

Carl,
I use 15% blend up here at altitude so standing up to 10% isn't good enough for me.

BobH

My Feedback: (2)

Straight from "Testors", Let the enamel paints dry for 48 hours before applying any othert types of paint over them. Let the Acrylic paints dry for 24 hours".
I used both for the markings on my SE5a on Chervon PC10 (custom matched by me). That all was cleared over with Nelson's clear flat + the cross link.
A tip for applying the Clear; Thin the paint to between 25-35% with water. Use a foam 2inch brush and apply the clear in the direction of the air flow over the surface. After its been brushed on it will level pretty well but not completely (at least that's been my experience). Go back over it and shoot a fine coat of the same thinned clear using an airbrush. You don't want a heavy coat just enough to help level the brushed clear.
You'll get good results from this method. You can view the resuits here on RCU by looking at pictures of my SE5a. that I posted.

Edwin

My Feedback: (2)

Chuck,
Is there any difference in thinning with tap water or distilled. Or does it matter.
Edwin

warbirdcolors

My Feedback: (5)

I do not think it matters. If your water tastes or looks so bad you can't/won't drink it, then maybe you should use distilled, but otherwise it shouldn't matter.

Shane B

My Feedback: (3)

These 3 planes were painted with testors. It goes on good and weathers great.

Richard L.

My Feedback: (24)

I just did my own little test using Warbirdcolors yellow zinc chromate mixed with the proper amount of crosslinker. I painted two squares on a piece of thick glossy white paper and let the paint dry for a couple of days. I then put a couple of drops of Powermaster YS 20/20 fuel directly on both squares. After four minutes, I took a white cotton towel and tried to rub off the paint from one of the squares. No paint came off and the white towel stayed white. I'm going to let the other square sit overnight and try to rub the paint off from it the next day. So far I'm impressed with the paint's ability to handle raw 20% nitro.

The Raven

For water based acrylics a good mix is 50% water with 50% Isopropyl alcohol. Add a drop of dish washing liquid to act as a dispersant, which helps the paint settle out.

Richard L.

My Feedback: (24)

After the YS 20/20 fuel has been sitting on my test patches for 24 hours, I tried to rub the paint off. Neither 20% nitro nor 70% rubbing alcohol was able to smear or remove the paint.

Richard L.

My Feedback: (24)

I repeated the same test using black Warbirdcolors paint. However, this time I did not mix in any crosslinker. The paint didn't smear, but it did come off as expected. Therefore, the crosslinker enabled the paint to withstand 20% nitro in my case.

BobH

My Feedback: (2)

Thanks for the test info Richard.

jls191

My Feedback: (1)

Richard L. - You say you use Model Masters Acrylics. I looked at Testors site and they sell them in 1/2oz bottles. I plan on repainting the CMPro FW 190 that has a 71in WS how much paint would I need ... for example I will be using an airbrush and sprayer so how much primer would I need to cover the plan?? Do you know what I mean?? How many oz's do you think it would take to do a plane that size? then I could guesstamate the rest of the colors from that.

I have picked this scheme



Jeffrey

jls191

My Feedback: (1)

I also am thinking of stripping the wings and glassing them what cloth do any of you recommend I have never glassed before.