NE0

My Feedback: (9)

Thanks guys, I really appreciate that. I don't really work that fast... I just don't sleep at night.

Tom

NE0

My Feedback: (9)

Booyah! Finally turned the corner on this project and at exactly one year from starting on it, I’ve finally got all the color coats laid down. This was my first attempt at using Warbird Colors and all I can say is WOW. This is the best paint I think I’ve ever used, and I’ve been shootin’ paint for 30 years. It is soooooo easy to shoot, pigments are amazing, no fuss and tweak, no runs, no orange peel, etc, etc. REALLY sweet stuff.

I still have to do my weathering and small text decals before shooting the final clear coats, but there is definitely light at the end of the tunnel now! Here are a few pics, but there are many more on the “how to� pages of my build site at…


[link=http://www.tompierce.net/190/html/paint/matls&tools.htm]http://www.tompierce.net/190/html/paint/matls&tools.htm[/link]

Cheers,

Tom

ticketec

My Feedback: (2)

What can i say!

Inspirational work once again!! She is looking beautiful already, can't wait to see some more pic's after you've added the weathering.

Are you intending to spin a three bladed prop?

thanks

SVX

I am glad to see that Warbirds paint is so good. I'll definitely be using this paint on my next
plane. Oh yea, your plane is gorgeous!. SVX

NE0

My Feedback: (9)

Thanks guys! No 3-blade prop on this one, at least not at this point. I first want to get the engine broke in with a low-load prop and make sure that I am comfortable with performance before considering a 3-blade, which would degrade response somewhat. If I have tons of power to spare, then I'll think about it later once everything is proven over time. I plan to start with a great proven combo for the G62 (Zinger 20 x 8-10) to get maximum performance with the least load on the engine. Next year might be a different story.

Peter_OZ

My Feedback: (1)

mmm DA-50 would sit in that bird nicely, rear induction and much lighter too. Mine swings a 22x10 at 7200rpm and is still not run in yet so that number will only increase.


Beautiful work as per normal for you!

cheers
Peter

NE0

My Feedback: (9)

DA50? Waste of a good engine. I've got two and love them both, but "lighter" is not a good thing in the nose of any warbird. Drop a pound in engine weight and you'll just end up adding it back in lead along with the other pound you'll probably have to add

Plus, nearly $600 vs $0 is not much of a choice for me anyway. The G62 didn't empty my wallet like a DA50 would. In this particular plane, the rear carb would have been more trouble than help too. It would have put the carb right in the firewall (not good). And, both my DA50's are set up that way in their current planes... inevitably you get gas coming out of the carb into the fuse (usually from bone head moves like flooding it). That's a recipe for disaster inside a styrofoam fuselage.

Tom

Peter_OZ

My Feedback: (1)

ouch![]

think I will shut up after that spray! I have the DA mounted on an isolation mount, it has a hole cut out to allow for the carb induction, no spray gets into the fuz as the actual firewall itself has no hold cut in it.

lower weight is not an issue as I build light in the tail area. Intial balance with engine fitted is almost spot on. Battery and servos will then be postioned to create perfect CG without any addtional weight being added.

there is my thrippance h'penny worth!

Nickrc3

My Feedback: (6)

Nice work Tom!
Thanks for the information on the paint used. I wish to get away from the automotive basecoat stuff. What is the reducing ratio's of the product? Does it thin with water or their specific thinner? Spray gun pressures and specialized equipment required?

Using the G-62 is a wise choice, and I still needed 8 oz. of lead within the cowl ring to balance mine.
As indicated on the pic, much cutting will be required to the cowling bottom, however it's not terribly noticable when she sits on the mains. The carb is fully enclosed within the cowl, however, carb choking may be a problem. I simply made a curved extension from G-10 which is bolted to the choke level. This arm extends down below the carb to allow choke access.

Keep up the good work!

NICK

NE0

My Feedback: (9)

Thanks Nick, appreciate that. I strongly suggest you read my step-by-step pages on using this paint. I cover every question you had (and more) in great detail. Short and skinny, use water (20%) to thin and 25-27psi in an HVLP gun.

As for nose weight, yes I agree, which was the exact point I was trying to make. I've never seen a scale warbird that didn't need it. I'm not talking about ARFs, or sport/3D planes... I'm talking about scale planes, especially ones with scale gear, glassed, panel lines, the works. You can build as light as you want and it's just not going to be enough in most cases. Especially such a short nosed ship as this Butcher Bird.

I'm shooting for balancing with a G62 and as little nose weight as possible... who know's, maybe none. But let's get serious here... If I had dropped a pound in the nose with a DA engine, I'd have to build the tail over 3 pounds lighter... HA... you ain't gonna take no 3 pounds outa the tail, no way no how. Oh yeah, and how do you build a foam tail "lighter" anyway?

Tom

JIMMYMUGUREL

HelloTom!
A nice surprise to see another project made by you!
Follow your SBD project, and must tell you , it was ART on it!
I'm sure Fw will be more than that
Keep the flag UP!
Your admirer
Jimmy
C.G.Manea

NE0

My Feedback: (9)

Thanks Jimmy, I appreciate the words of support. I'm very happy with it so far, as long as I don't screw it up now in the home stretch!

Tom

YAT-28E

Tom,

I need to get over and see that beauty soon! i was hoping to get there as you were painting for on hand tips but kids have a tendacy to keep ya from doing things.
I may ring ya Sunday if your working on her!
Once again your bird is looking sweet
Ready for Toledo......

Mike

mfranke

My Feedback: (1)

Tom
it looks awesome. What do you think is the smallest compressor size you could use with the HVLP gun you have ? I just don't have room for a 15 gallon comressor.
Great tutorial as usual
Thanks

NE0

My Feedback: (9)

Mark,

You could probably get by with one of the smaller compressors... say, about 5 gallons. They will give you more than enough pressure to shoot with... it's just that the smaller the tank, the faster it runs out. So, the motor will be kicking in constantly, which is very noisy and will shorten the lifespan of the compressor. 10 gallons would be better obviously, but they're really not much smaller than the 15 gallon units. If you really need to reduce the footprint, you're going to have to drop to 5 gallons +-

Tom

NE0

My Feedback: (9)

The finish line continues to get closer... weathering is now done. Well 98% done. Still have to do the decals before final clear coat application as soon as I get them in. Hee are a few pics, but I've got tons more and a very detailed tutorial on all techniques used at...

[link=http://www.tompierce.net/190/html/paint/weather.htm]http://www.tompierce.net/190/html/paint/weather.htm[/link]

Tom

SMUGator

I like the overall weathering approach. It looks excellent. What causes the exhaust to flow over and behind the wing without touching the insignia and lettering on the fuse?

Tom

NE0

My Feedback: (9)

The airflow is "siphoned" by, and follows the shape of the airfoil. Watch a wind tunnel smoke test of a car some time... you'll see the smoke immediately drop off the back end of the car... straight down. That's why the back end of my truck is the first thing to get dusty immediately after washing.

Here are a few examples...

Baldeagle

My Feedback: (7)

Tom your weathering just plows me away, awsome. It's an artist at work. Rich

SMUGator

Cool pics. Never noticed that before.

JIMMYMUGUREL

Hello Tom!
Fine work on your Fw!
About the smoke .... proud to say that a Romanian fellow: Coanda - discovers what's up with fluids ( air too ) nearby a surface .... COANDA EFFECT.
About weathering .... it's cool man!
Complete the stuff with some maiden pics!
Your's
Jimmy

NE0

My Feedback: (9)

Thanks Jimmy, now I've learned something new! My new word for the day... COANDA!

I knew there had to be a scientific term for it... just not smart enough to know what it was!

Cheers,

Tom

Tommy_Gun

With respect to Henri Coanda,

I know of more than a few old flight instructors in full scale that are starting to teach their students about this gentlemans findings and they are even conceding that this is probably more responsible for the creation of lift than the bernoulli principle.

By the way once again,

EXCELLENT WORK on the Anton Neo!

adam d

wow[X(][X(][X(][X(] thats all i can say.................
oh and Im new to the glassing process and i was just wondering how do u keep the cloth from bubbling and getting air pockets??

P.S. how long since u have seen the light of day?

lookin great

Adam

NE0

My Feedback: (9)

Well, I never really had that much trouble with bubbles in PolyC applications. If you cut your cloth in logical sections, and work your Poly or Resin from the center out, it pretty much takes care of itself. The only place that any bubbling occurs is the occasional sharp compound curve. But you just have to pay close attention to those areas and persistently work them down flat until they grab ahold. With PolyC, that's pretty easy and fast.

Tom