Avaiojet

I have a CMP P-40 NIB hanging around.

Anyone?

LDM

My Feedback: (15)

Mike before you get rid of the tray consider the following , mounting your bas engine on a ply wall/bulkhead , measure the bulk head before on the existing ply rails in the P40 to determine how far in the fuse it needs to be mounted to have the engine flush with the front fuse .Then cut slots into your rails to allos the ply bulk to be incerted at the proper height , distance and angle .
At this stage reinfore all the existing ply rail front and back from your engine assembly with more ply .
I also suggest you glass the inside parts of the fuse cowl , formers ect back into and beyond your #1 and 2 bulkheads ,this plane is light , the fuse flexes and gas engines are powerful and prone to more vibration then eflight .
Once your new engine and bulk head are in and glued add some ply trianlgur stock to your assembly

raaf

HI LDM.
RAAF AGAIN IV BEEN WORKING ON 140 SIZE P40 WITH SUCESSFUL RESULTS.I HAVE FITTED MY GAS MTR ON A 10mm THICK BULKHEAD WITH STAND OFFS .I WAS ABLE TO KEEP SOME OF THE PLY THAT MADE UP THE TRAY.THE PLY IS STILL ATTCHED TO #1 AND #2 FORMERS AND SITLL CONTINUES ALL THE WAY AROUND IN THE FRONT OF THE FUSE UP TO WHERE THE FUEL TANK IS MOUNTED.IVE GOT THE SPINNER LINED UP WITH THE FRONT OF THE FUSE OK WITH THE CORRECT THRUST ANGLES AND GAP.I STILL HAVE TO REINFORCE IT ALL YET TO FINISH IT OFF.IT TOOK AWHILE BUT WAS WORTH THE TIME.CUSTOM EXHAUST IS THE NEXT COMPLEX UNIT TO BE MADE.
IVE DONE A COMPLETE COCKPIT TO TAKE 1/6 PILOT AND A SLIDING CANOPY.THE RETRACTS ARE LADO UNITS AND ARE WORTH EVERY CENT,THEY WORK PERFECTLY. THE SPLIT FLAPS ARE DONE BUT NOT SCALE , I RECESSED THEM INTO THE WING AND MOUNTED THE SERVOS ONTO OF THE WING INSIDE THE FUSE .I ALSO FITTED A 121 ROBART TAIL WHEEL WITH CLOSING DOORS.IVE CERTAINLY BEEN LEARNING ALOT FROM THIS PROJECT AND HAVE MADE MISTAKES ALONG THE WAY BUT ITS ALOT OF FUN WHILE GAINING EXPERIENCE FOR THE NEXT PROJECT.
IVE READ LOTS OF YOUR ADVICE YOU'VE GIVEN TO OTHERS AND PUT SOME OF IT TO USE.I WISH I COULD LOAD SOME PHOTOS TO GET YOUR OPION ON IT SOFAR.

TILL LATER SHAYNE.

LDM

My Feedback: (15)

sound very cool my freind , please try to update with photos , we can help you post

ysolomon

All,

I started a thread on RCGroups on this plane, but was referred to THIS build log. It's wonderful!!! What great craftsmanship!!! I got my CMP P-40E a couple of weeks ago, and last night was really the first time I actually did something... I used a knife to open the aileron servo cover and the retract cover.

Here is what I ordered so far:
- The plane (the cheapest component of all...) $177
- RIMFIRE 1.60 motor (yes, electric conversion... I chose this motor because it will take 12S, and I want to "standardize" on 12S 5000mAh to share with other planes. Long story...) $140
- 4 Hitec HS-645MG servos (as recommended at FlyRC 12/2010 issue, but I will need 2 more for the flaps) $120
- X-Large Great Planes motor mount $22
- Castle Creations ICE HV 120A $190
- 4-1/2" fiberglass spinner and 3-blade Graupner 16x8 prop (I know the spinner should be 4.75", but for 1/8" each sideI'll live with that for a while, and yes3 blades it is...) $75

And finally

- Sound system from Model Solutions of Canada (including 4" 20W speakers) $285 (the Canadian Dollar was stronger than the US Dollar the day I ordered...)

I'm still waiting to hear from Sierra on how to order the retracts.

I am going to take my time with this build for multiple reasons. My plan is to build it in steps. Initially I will build it as per the plans with only the following modifications:
1. Add flaps.
2. Change to 4.5" threaded main wheels (I did the math based on pictures, and I believe the wheel should actually be 5.1" in diameter. Definitely not the 3" provided...)
3. Put a 1.5" tail wheel where it belongs...

Once this works and fliesI will add the sound system.

LDM

My Feedback: (15)

very cool info , curiuos why the rimfire vs some of the Turnegy motors?
Also that is a good price in the Castle , so you did save there vs the sound system .
You may me able to get the sierra retracts from Tomas at VQ easier then Darell at Sierra , just a tip .

rcflyinmike

Great input Guy's Thanks. LDM , Intreting reading, Great Idia's. Shayne I wish you could download some photo's too!!.  And ysolomon, Sound System !?    Thanks Again, Mike.

ysolomon

LDM,

Good question about the RIMFIRE vs. Turnigy. I guess I didn't want to wait too long for the shipment from HK... (although, I do have time in my hands). I also didn't find a motor I liked exactly there. I had good experience with Turnigy in the past. I found the RIMFIRE on eBay (like the CC and the motor mount). Had good experience with the sellers there. I wanted a motor in the 2500W range, with relatively low KV, as I wanted to run it on 12S 5000mAh. Waiting for the 6S 5000mAh 45C from Turnigy to be available... They are on backorder all the time. I'll try the alternative source for the Sierra retracts.

Yoram.

ysolomon

I looked up VQ's website. I found the Century retract system (http://www.vqwarbirds.com/product_in...a893cbc5967534). Actually, pretty good price ($240 including the air system). However, I can't find the Sierra P-40 struts. The closest thing I can find is the F4U (http://www.vqwarbirds.com/product_in...a893cbc5967534) or F6F (http://www.vqwarbirds.com/product_in...a893cbc5967534). I believe both are rotating and 100 degrees (as opposed to 95 degrees. What do you think?

LDM

My Feedback: (15)

ask Tomas for the specific retracts for the CMP P40

ysolomon

His contact information is not published on the site... I filled the "contact us" form, and I'm waiting for a reply. Which retract system would you recommend, Century or Sierra?

LDM

My Feedback: (15)

Sierra , for the P40 they are better in this case

ysolomon

Tomas got back to me last night. I hope to place the order today.

Just received the RIMFIRE 1.60. The picture doesn't do justice to it... This is one big motor!!! Also received the motor mount. MeanwhileI opened up the landing gear mounting spot, and the aileron servo. I marked where the flaps will go, and later today (weather permitting) I will open up the flap spots. I will then take a few photos and post them.

Also received the Esprit Model 4.5" uncut fiberglass spinner and 16x8x3 Graupner prop. The 4.5" spinner is not bad. Looks much better than the stock 4.75" one (a little longer). Not exactly what a P-40 spinner should look like, but closer than the original. Howeverthe prop. makes me nervous. It weighs 5.5oz (156g). This is an electric motor that would run at 250KV x 50V (12S) = 12,500 RPM max. Not sure that carrying 5.5oz is efficient and would not burn the motor. In comparison, a XOAR electric (2 blade) 19x8 weighs 52g, 1/3 of the Graupner I got...

Thoughts???

LDM

My Feedback: (15)

Grauper prop is that an eletric prop ? I know you know this but make sure what ever you do that you balance the prop .
In the event that you do not like the spinner , Hobby King makes a carbon fiber spinner 4 3/4 "

ysolomon

It's not an electric one. I know that RIMFIRE recommends for the bigger motors (50cc and 65cc) NOT to use electric props. However, this is one size smaller (1.60 = 26cc) so they don't necessarily recommend a non-electric prop. However, I don't know where to find an electric, scale looking 3-blade 16x8, 16x10, or 18x8 prop... Any ideas? I saw the HK CF spinner. Might get it at some point. It actually costs slightly less than the 4.5" FG spinner I got.

LDM

My Feedback: (15)

I am also in the process of looking for that size , try common sence rc and i am going to look at Zingalli as well ( i know they make a three blade wood prop for a Saito 180 size 4 stroke

LDM

My Feedback: (15)

Ok , found what I needed ,this may help you out xoar propellers have a ton of three blade propellers

ysolomon

They don't publish their weight, though... On 3-blade props... They do publish weight on all the others. Would you put a wood prop on this one? Would you paint it?
I have experience with the Xoar props. They are VERY good. I may buy one just to see...

You have to love their PJWWII-R3 series:

War Bird Series II - Round Tip Three Blade

* Pre-balance of Beauty & Performance WW2 style 3 blade wooden propeller with rounded tips.
* "War Bird Series" inherits the Xoar craftsmanship with model grade German beech core.
* Digitally machined and manufactured in CNC program

And you MUST love the last line: "Coming Soon"...

ysolomon

And there is always the Master Airscrew one, which is much cheaper: http://masterairscrew.com/16x103-bla...propeller.aspx
($16 vs. $60...). I just figured out why 3-blade WOOD propellers are so much more expensive relative to 2-blade props, compared to plastic ones. The wood propellers are made of a single piece of wood. If you are making a 2-blade prop, say 18x10, you probably need some 18"x1" piece of wood. However, when you are making a 3-blade prop, you need a piece closer to 18"x16" piece of wood. 16 times bigger piece than the 2-bladed one...

I guess this does not apply to variable pitch (constant speed) propellers, as they have the 3 blades manufactured individually.

LDM

My Feedback: (15)

Its just me , but I only use wood on all my planes . When I got back into rc i was 45 , now I am 50 . I remember the old gut at the shop saying " what do you want son , wood or plastic " randomely I picked wood . He says "that a boy" so I asked why ?? he says " I see more guys in here with bent motor shafts , and damaged planes that can be advoided if they used wood , the prop would break , not the frame , not the shaft , not the motor ect " you know he was right , with my 4 strokes , never an issue and yes it cost more until you learn not to nose over ect , but its so worth it .

I am going three and yes will paint to scale colors

ysolomon

That a boy...

ysolomon

OK. I finally got the courage and opened the area for the flaps, per what I read here in this forum. Used the dremel with the cutting tool and followed the line I marked. I started the flap 60mm from the wing root, and 6mm from the aileron. I drew a line parallel (mostly) to the trailing edge, 85mm away from it, and stayed 5mm away from the trailing edge, thus leaving the original trailing edge intact. I then removed the covering material intact (see second picture). I don't know if I will, but I now have the option of using it to cover the flaps and maintain the same original color... I removed the balsa cover in one piece, all the way to the trailing edge. I still need to carve into the trailing edge to allow for the actual flap to fit in.

Do the flaps look too small???

Next: I need to make openings for the flap servos, adjust the opening for the Sierra retracts (finally put the order in today), and make room for the sound system speakers...

ysolomon

As far as flaps, I'm considering several options:

1. .010" Fliteskin on 1.6mm balsa, plus 2" CF tape for reinforcement, and short ribs
2. 1.6mm balsa glassed with 1.5oz FG, plus 2" CF tape, and short ribs

Any thoughts?

I plan on painting the inside green, like the real plane.

LDM

My Feedback: (15)

I used flight skin because in the past my balsa /ply menthods warped when I atteched inside ribs .
As far as size I think they look good , if you want them a little more scale you need to increase the width a little but I cant tell how close you are to the spar .
as far as function, they should work great

ysolomon

Thanks. I'll see if I get along with Fliteskin for this job... Near the aileronI got almost all the way to the spar. Don't want to cut into the spar. When I looked at the real plans for the P-40E, the flaps are the right size. In fact, the ailerons are too big in the CMP model compared with the real thing...