NoFlaps

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Typhoon Construction continued:
Figure 4,5 & 6 where a sinch, and were as easy as fast as on any other ARF to install the servos and nylon hardware.
Note: I ran a string through the lightening holes of each wing section to make servo installation easier once the wing panels were epoxied together...this little step is worth the effort since it's not a straight shot from servo bay to wing root.
The supplied hardware from KMP is adequate and thereby doesn't need to be replaced.
Fig. 7 is the joining of the wing components and although simple, I might suggest slightly modifying these connections to have a secondary wooden dowel or joiner "pin" about 4-5" back from the supplied joiner to ensure alignment and provide a better/ more rigid connection.
I did not make this recommended change to avoid adding weight, but It's something to consider.
When joining the wings use expoxy sparingly to avoid it "spooging" out when the butts come together, the surfaces of this plane are beautiful and I hate to see them get ruined by such a mistake.
I used tape to hold the wing parts firmly together until the epoxy dried.

Fig.8, 9 & 10 Flap assy & installation.
This was rather easy and went together quite nicely.
Again, I had painted the knuckles of the hinges for the flaps to match the corresponding paint colors of the adjacent areas.
Pre-fit the hinges/ flaps (as one should always do on all parts prior to gluing) to ensure factory drill locations were spot-on (which they are aften not).
Also when fitted together, make sure there is plenty of clearance for the flaps to actuate at least 30 degrees (as with the aileron, rud and elev hinging...be sure to check for non-binding movement prior to gluing as that's what led to my blocks cracking on steps 1-3).
When viewing from the bottom, my Lt side flaps did't fit as perfectly as the Rt, but it all went together nicely just the same.
[Pics to hopefullly be posted soon].

NoFlaps

My Feedback: (131)

Again, Typhoon construction Continued:
Figure 11, 12 & 13 -Flap servo installation
Before I installed the flap servos, I painted the inside of the wheel wells to give the plane a more scale look...books such as Squadron publications can help you with the color selection.
I used the non standard french blue (similar to that of my Focke Wulf)...Although this is not historically correct, it looks really clean and plausibly realistic instead of the oxide green.
See photo not posted yet.
Flap servo installation was as easy as could be suspected, and I let the servo exptensions follow the aileron extensions through other lightening holes behind the wheel wells to avoid being easily spotted.
as a note to those relatively new at building, I always lightly scribe a hatch pattern with my knife on the wood to be glued...namely, the servo blocks and winf servo panels (this allows the epoxy to have a much better and rigid bond)...the last thing you want is to have an aileron servo break the glue bond that holds it in place from a-lot of torque, so it's an ounce or prevention that's worth it.
I used JR high torque MG servos for all wing servos, but the supplied servo arms were not long enough so I picked up som Dubro extended arms which did the trick nicely.
Fig. 14-15 pertain to the landing gear ( I ordered the plane with the nice oleo-struct air retracts)
I'm going to skip this step for the moment as I waited until last to install the retracts.
[8D]more to come...

NoFlaps

My Feedback: (131)

Please see the long awaited pics of the Tiffie durring it's build process.

Well dang!
For whatever reason my computer is not allowing me to upload to this link anymore, but you can see some pics of the tiffie on "My Gallery" I also have a video of it...Maybe I can put it on u-tube or something.
Sorry guys, after having my computer de-virused, I can't seem to do the same stuff I could before on it...
If anyone wants to see them suppose I could e-mail them to you.

NoFlaps

My Feedback: (131)

5th flight today and had an engine failure...
The problem was that my Spark plug vibrated itself loose, so I lost compression
I Deadsticked into the tall grass & flip it over... Am happy to report minimal damage.
Chin airscoop has a minor fracture which is hardly noticable.[8D] the canopy also received a larger crack than the one i originally gave it while working on the bench at home.
As it turns out the flaps are incredibly effective in lowering airspeed and I wish I has time to raise them back up...boy that wing produces tremendous amountzs of lift!

NoFlaps

My Feedback: (131)

Did you see some of the pics on "my gallery" ?
I keep trying to upload the build pics on this thread, but everytime I click on the "click here to upload images and files" link, nothing happens at all.

xtraflyr

My Feedback: (11)

Yea,I saw a few pics of it on there. I havent looked since like 330 so I dont know if there is more then I saw..

Did you upload the vid yet? I love to see it..

I got my EF88"Yak done and maidened on the 4th of July. So now I can get back to work on my Tiffie.

Cya,
Frank

xtraflyr

My Feedback: (11)

Hey NoFlaps, Yep there's a new one with the canopy off. What color did you use for under the canopy,the greenish color?

Thanks..

NoFlaps

My Feedback: (131)

I used British "interior green" Model Masters paint

f104g

What an incredibly nice model the Typhoon is.

I've been reading several threads relating to this and other models that KMP\YT\ESM have released in recent years The Typhoon, Bearcat, Stuka and in particular, the Spitfire and September Fury interest me. I think they should be congratulated on the quality and finish of them all. I was begining to think that ARF manufacturers were never going to make serious efforts at creating warbirds with a true scale look.

Some offerings, in my view anyway, are absolutely abominable and cartoonish in respect to the way they deficiently represent the look and feel of a full scale Warbird. No-one seems to have a problem reproducing a reasonable true look, ARF CAP, Laser or Extra. Not so a warbird, despite the shape and sound of warbirds being very well known around the world. You must wonder what the younger model flyers (who may not have had the privilege of seeing the real thing fly) must think a warbird looks like.

good on you KMP. keep up the great work.

Think about larger scales in the future .... please !.

Richard L.

My Feedback: (24)

I agree that the KMP/YT Hurricane, Spitfire, ME-109, and Typhoon are all great looking "scale" models. However, KMP/YT started a downhill slide in terms of "scale look" starting with the Bearcat. I don't think you want to see the KMP/YT FW-190A prototype (now in production). It is "cartoonish" as you put it. Someone mentioned in another thread that KMP/YT will no longer claim to make scale warbird ARF's, which is unfortunate.

alanc

tell me richard, does one meal make a restaurant a bad place to eat? the bearcat and 190 are semi scale, as is the series of warbirds you mention, semi scale means they have slighlty differant lines, here, and there, but they LOOK convincing, and any wont even notice, they are the first mass produced composite birds, and, for the price, they are a STEAL,
i can only advise you, and others, to buy up brian taylor stuff before it all dissapears, and construct your own, on the 2 models you mention, revisions may be made, they may not, it depends how difficult it is, and wether its deemed worth it, but i still say you had the opportunity a few months ago, before any of the model where mentioned on any forum, didnt you? granted, its difficult to see the rear fuzz detail, on the 190. and it had no canopy fitted, but everything else mentioned can easily be seen, apart from the reviewd colour scheme, yet no word? why do you think we send sneak previews out to respected members of the world modeling community? to get feedback, this we want BEFORE the thing goes into production, not after, anyway, dont give up the ghost, all is not lost yet!!!

and please tell me, there are lots and lots of horrible things out there, that dont even get a mention, why our stuff?

NoFlaps

My Feedback: (131)

Hey everybody out there...
Am I the only person is the U.S. who has built and flown this baby ?
How's about some more feedback on the Typhoon.
I love it!

Beechbum

My Feedback: (11)

alanc,

That was well said, er asked. I don't understand why your 190 is being dumped on so much. I am waiting to see what the reply might be.

Richard L.

My Feedback: (24)

You never did send me the side view of either the Bearcat or the FW190, and I wish you did. You sent me two three quarter views and one top view of each plane.

Richard L.

My Feedback: (24)

Simply put it: the 190 is not up to par with the previous warbird offerings.

alanc

i sent you at the time what we had, i could do no more, this will not happen again, there was enough to see any discrepences in scale detail, gun port bulges, cowl, etc, still, never mind, you live and learn in this game, many new models are being planned, we are evolving, & they are STILL the best for the price, the future can only get better the more we learn

xtraflyr

My Feedback: (11)

Im still working on mine.. But getting close.Im trying to figure out where to put the retract servo and the actuator. I gotta fit the other exhaust to the cowl,get a spinner,and rig up some kind of exhaust for the YS 120sf Im goin to use,and do the cg.

Does the cg seem ok where they state it to be,or can I move the cg back so I dont have to add a ton of nose weight to it?

Hey alanc,
Are the rocket rails and cannons almost ready to sell to the public? I dont want to add to much detail until after I fly it.Its already feeling pretty heavy.. What kind of weights are you guys getting? Mine has to be 13lbs easily..

When i get onto my other computer,Ill put up some pics..
Cya,
Frank

Thanks,
Frank

xtraflyr

My Feedback: (11)

Ok guys heres a couple for you..

kinverflyer

We are still waiting on our first delivery so unfortunately no news on the rocket rails or cannons. Regarding weight my prototype with a Zenoha26 weighs 15lb and flies superb. I have noticed on the photos the cooler scoop is solid, what are you doing of cooling?

NoFlaps

My Feedback: (131)

I've got a new job and have dwnloaded the pics on the office computer to upload here.

So, here's the pics of my cooling baffle.
I hope those prove to be helpful.
The metal is simply thing guage roof flashing from your local hardware store; the bends in the metal provide stiffness/ rigidity and directional airflow to the cylinder head, the cut-outs are for the exhauset stacks and battery pack clearance. (FYI-that's a G26 engine)
Note: all the added weight in the nose.

NoFlaps

My Feedback: (131)

Build Thread continued:
More of the build thread, since I'm finally able to upload pics...FYI, if you go back to pg. 8 of this thread, you'll see I've uploaded the corresponding pics to healp you get the visuals.
Sorry it took so long~
So, This is where I stray off the [path of the normal build to add a retractable tail wheel.
I used a Robarts mechanical wheel with a long Sullivan push-rod, and intend to attach this to my air retract servo. you can see that i've made a lt. wt plty structural bulkhead for it, that included slots for the pull-pull and other lightening holes for the tail wheel steering 9note that they are elongated to accommodate for both up and down positioning.
You can see that I've used servo mounts to Cushion the attachment to the ulkhead, which then gets attached to the existing bulkhead.
use as many lightening holes as possible since you want to keep all the weight you can out of the tail.


Also the pics I included on the last post (back on Pg8) show that I painted the faux-exhaust plywood black, with silver detailing, then weathered the exhaust pipes with black and rust coloring to give them a "used" effect.[8D]

NoFlaps

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After landing another sortie ...Time to hit the pub!

bladerunner1955

My Feedback: (72)

noflaps your tailwheel idea is great! OK, call me think in the head but where did you mount the servo to work the robart tailwheel? And I am sure you hooked up the pull pull wires to the rudder along with the rudder on the same control arm. I had some of the same issues with the KMP ME109. I had to come up with a different tailwheel set up. If this one comes out as cool as the ME109 it should be a great plane. Here is a shot of the KMP 109

NoFlaps

My Feedback: (131)

Hey Bladerunner1955, originally, I had planned on utilizing the retract that operates the main rear, but i found that my ATV set-up was pretty minimal, so the tailwheel required a servo of it's own.
I show a std. futaba servo, but I've found that by using the Hitec HS-81, they're lighter, smaller and have more torque, which works perfectly.
here'
s a pix showing the sullivan pushrod (RED) that leads to the tailwheel.
Enjoy!
I can get better pics for you, but this one is all i have at the moment.

NoFlaps

My Feedback: (131)

Build thread cont'.
Here are some more mods that aren't on the instructions.
You can see in the last pic that I cout out the area for the cockpit opening, and there are about 2" to spare before the servos; that allows one to creat a 1/2 cockpit.
The problem with the early tiffie, is that it actually uses "car"-like doors, so the cockpit is more like that of a P-39, so I used a book called "cockpits" to make as much as i could see, but I adlibbed a bit on the areas where the doors are. Overall, it looks pretty darn good to me.
The Pilot is a hangar9 "rubbery" bust and I used model masters paints on the entire area including the seat/ headrest and other "green" areas of the zone under the canopy including the inside of the canopy.
I've also elected to repaint Dora...the hot pink of her body looked too much like a temporary tattoo from a crackerjack box, so I toushed up her and the bomb, but left the text the same...She looks much more like "nose art" now.

There's also room for your volt-watch down there too.[8D]