saramos

This is my new project. The kit is the Anniversary Gold Edition P-51B. I plan on modeling is Snoot's Sniper, a P-51B with a Malcom hood flown by Lt. Francis W, 328 Squadron of the 352 Fighter Group.

I've been gathering drawings and documentation. I am currently looking at the drawings from the CD by Tamiya as the basis of the outline. Some of the modifications I am considering are, rework of the inboard wing outline and rework of the rear fuse outline. The Top Flite kit is the P-51D kit with a conversion kit included. The D wing is different and the rear fuse is lower in the area of F9. Overall, the razorback is a bit taller than the Tamiya drawing, but I have not decided if I will make that change. Changing that would mean cutting all new rear formers and more modification to the canopy. I may still do it since I will be needing to make a custom canopy for the Malcom hood.
Another thing I want to attempt on this build is to hide all the linkages. I plan on using two aileron servos and a rudder/tailwheel servo using a rotary drive system I may need a separate servo for steering the tailwheel. The elevator linkage is already hidden. The last question will be the flaps. I have not yet given much thought to them. I would prefer a single servo. If I can get the geometry to work, perhaps a torque rod setup like with the elevators would work.

The other area that will be new ground for me will be making this an electric bird. I just finished my TF Spitfire which is powered by an RCV 90SP. I really like the engine for it's streamline design and it's ability to turn a 15.5" 4 blade prop. The only other way to get this combo is with electric power. Getting the RCV installed with minimal cutting of the cowl was a challenge. I ended up using an electric ducted fan for cooling. This, plus an onboard glow added a lot of complexity. Going electric will simplify things quite a bit. It will eliminate cooling as a major factor, eliminate the glow system and carb adjustments, allow for even less cutting of the cowl and I can still fly with a large 4 blade. The setup I am considering is the E-Flite 110 motor with the APC 15.5 x 12 prop, an 8S2P 4000ma LiPo and either the Jeti 90 or Castle Creations 85 controller. I'll delay purchase of the batteries as late into the process as possible to take advantage of dropping prices.

I plan on going with the Robart, all metal 530RS gear and the 440 series 663L/R offset struts for 3 3/4" - 4" wheels. I am also planning on using the Robart 121 retractable tailwheel.

I've benefited greatly from other build threads, such as the TF Spitfire Build by Tubig, CorsairJocks Corsair thread, Dions' Corsair thread, TFarmers thread and ZopePopes P-51 thread. I am still a bit away from first glue but I am looking forward to any comments, tips and suggestions as I start to get this project underway.



Scott

fancman

My Feedback: (16)

There is some great info on this build thread about the B version. This was a conversion of the ARC P51 D and shows some of what you're talking about doing as in hiding linkages and such.

http://www.rcscalebuilder.com/forum/...587&PN=1&TPN=1

saramos

Thanks for the link, it's a very informative thread. I had come across it once before, but had forgotten about it.

Scott

bigtim

My Feedback: (13)

the B-version with the malcolm hood is by far my favorite Mustang, are you going to fab up the canopy from scratch ? I was thinking I might do this one next year after my JUG. I was wondering if you might be able to use the spitfire canopy with some mods . I fear vacuum forming. looking forward to your build

saramos

It looks like I'll need to fabricate my own canopy. My first thought was to modify a Spit canopy, but the shape of the front on the spit is slopes whereas the front of the B is straight up and down. This plane, much like my last one, is mostly about learning new techniques. Plug making and vacuum forming are the two that I anticipate being some of the biggest challenges.

Scott

gary9648

My Feedback: (1)

Top Flight has a canopy for the B model Mustang. go to Great Planes and look undwe the P-51 Giant Mustang kit info. Scroll down, they have all the formers and canopy.

joey_snaproll

My Feedback: (32)

hi Scott,I've been building the Malcome hood mustang too.Haven't worked on it in awhile but I have done what you want to do and I sure have learned alot.To make a mold and vacumm form a canopy is a art form in it's self.I'm talking about a nice clear and perfect canopy its hard.the ones I pulled had small flaws but I was happy.I made a full cockpit ,inner and outter gear doors.But I didn't move the inner doors closer together ,I think I'm going to change that and do new doors not sure it is all practice for my TF 1/5 Mustang.AnywayI'll try and post some pictures.

Joe

joey_snaproll

My Feedback: (32)

A few more,I hope I can get back to finish it this winter,House projects took all my time this year.I also plan on making a british pilot for it.Dion(luke) showed a cool way to make the body for any size over on the twins site"the widow's web II VQ bash" thread.But if you have seen any of his threads you know how many ideas he's given us.Also John Coles Malcom hood thread over at RCScalebuilder is a great read ,and will give you so much info.Like lenghting the struts with just doing a little grinding to the lower gear strut to make the lower part move farther out.Anyway good luck on you project.Once you really look at the b/c with a malcom hood you really fall in love with the look.
I like it so much that I plan on doing the same thing to my 1/5 TF mustang.

Joe

saramos

Hi Gary, Thanks for the suggestion. The canopy they sell for the P-51B is the standard 'birdcage' canopy, which is included with the kit I have. I am looking at modeling the Malcom hood canopy, which was a popular field modification. (have found no reference where they were used in the production line.

Hi Joe, your progress looks great. How did you deal with making space for the cockpit? I'm still studying the plans to come up with ideas for dealing with the cockpit. I look forward so seeing how your sliding canopy works out.

I've heard of a technique for getting a good clear canopy pull. You first pull a canopy using a thicker clear sheet than your desired finished pull. Leave the thicker pull on the plug, then pull your final canopy over it. I've read that if you use the same thickness for the first pull, the second pull will more likely stick to the first. Hmmm, might I be able to purchase a canopy from you?

I just picked up the retracts yesterday. These Robart 530 retracts are really nice. Did you use 90s or 85s? Next purchase (for this build ) will be the 663 struts.

Scott

gary9648

My Feedback: (1)

Scott, you will need the 85 degree version. This takes in the account for the dihederal in the wing. the 90 degree units would cause your gear legs to look splayed out.
Gary

joey_snaproll

My Feedback: (32)

Hi Scott thanks for the kind words.I had to sand of all the primer off the mold and have to reprime and paint.last canopy I pulled took some primer with it .had to wet sand with super fine sand paper and buff with some fine compound I got from a plastic place.It worked okay,Then buffed it with pledge,It seemed to fill and clear up the fine scatches.If I can get a good canopy pulled yea I'll sell one.I made a plaster mold of it not as detailed but I might try that plastic over plastic on that one and see how that turns out.I used the 90 degree glassed filled retracts but I might change them i have a few different ones kicking around.I put a 5 dgree bend in the wire to the strut,so the angle of the strut and wing is right on,and the wheel sit's a little farther in the wheel well and the inner door closes with no wheel resting on it.I might cut out the retract mounts and redo it by cutting one of the retract ribs down so the plate takes off 5 degress and the 90 degree retract will sit in the 85 degree ,with no bend it the wire,while down and have that extra 5 in the wheel well.I hope this makes sense to you.
As for the cockpit I photo copyed that section and drew it out on there ,then cut some thin cardboard and made a box fit it in place made the adjustments I needed then I used 1/16 lite ply and started building.you could use plastic too.I have a mustang B book that showed me everything .My cockpit has almost everything show in thoses pictures.The instrument planel three layers of ply,brass tubes for the instruments,and pins for the screws.that was a lot of work but sure looks real.The sliding canopy works just have to glue it to the rails,and think of a clean way to secure it in flight.
If you have the green house canopy,in the first TF mustang kit they said to use part of the D canopy to make a malcom hood.Never saw one so don't know how it would look.When I get a chance and my wife is out of the house for the whole day I'll see if I can get a canopy or two pulled.Hoping I won't pull of any paint this time.I'll let you know.

Joe

cobra314

I am also planning to build a TF 1/7 P-51 Malcolm hood version. I would really like to get a couple of these canopies if anyone has made one. Just let me know how much.

joey_snaproll

My Feedback: (32)

Hi ,I'll see what I can do.If I can get the mold right and get more that 1 or 2 canopies of it ,that would meet my standered to sell to some one.I might be willing to part with some.I reprimed it and getting it ready for a hard paint coat.Last time I pulled the canopies just with primer.got a couple off and the third took some primer.Plus you could see the glass weave in the canopy.Resanded and reprimed so now paint then give it another try.Let you guys know how it goes.

Joe

Ram-bro

My Feedback: (101)

Joey, I just acquired a P51B and I would love to buy a Malcom hood from you also. I will be watching this thread .....

ticketec

My Feedback: (2)

Hey Joey,

Take your mold down to your local panel repair shop and see it they can paint it with 2-pak paint. This will stop your primer coming off issues. I normally tell them i don't care what colour it is and just to use whatever is left over from the last car they did in 2-pak. Works fine.

Love to see pic's of how your canopies come out.

I'm also building a 1/7 P-51B but doing Don Gentile's Shangri-la, with masks from Getstencils.com,

Thanks

Peter_OZ

My Feedback: (1)

how is that glassing coming along?

ticketec

My Feedback: (2)

Hey Pete,

Almost all done..... Just need the flow coat on the lower side of the stab and some of the flight controls still!!!

Hey Joey snaproll,

It's odd looking at your Mustang pic's because i always go, Hey, there's my Mustang!!

Almost finished with my retracts and gear doors.

Thanks

joey_snaproll

My Feedback: (32)

Hi Ticketec,Nice looking plane.Are you going full cockpit in it?If so what pilot are you using?.I wonder how well the 605 retracts are goint to hold up.I have a set of rhoms I could use but not sure yet.I like your inner doors way better than mine.After seeing what they look like a little closer together, I'm going to change mine.Also with the outter doors a little shorter it looks like the gear ar longer.What is the lenght of you inner and outer doors.Are the retracts in the place the plan calls for or did you move them in a bit.The struts look about the same,please let me know.Thanks for the advice on painting the cowl,if this doesn't work I'll give that a try..I have let the primer really dry,than wet sanded it let that dry then sanded with a fine scratch pad to take any shine off .Then I painted it with Ultra paint and let that cure.I did it that way on a glass cowl and have no problems yet.I have to get some more butyrate plastic and give it another try.I have to wait till my wife is out of the house for a while.She get's so pissed when I heat up the plastic in out new stainless steel stove.I kinda find it funny .I tell her if I don't use it this way it would hardly get used at all.Will let you all know how it turns out .

Thanks
Joe

ticketec

My Feedback: (2)

oops!

ticketec

My Feedback: (2)

Hey Joey,

Thanks for the compliment.

Ok, i think i have pic's to answer your questions..

I am doing a full depth cockpit in her, I collected pictures of the real Mustangs cockpit and cut/pasteed the instruments before i touched them up in Photoshop and then resized them. Once printed on photo paper, I glued them onto the back of the insturment panel and then placed a dab of gloss clear in each instrument to represent the shiny instrument face. Made some switchesand t-handles from evergreen plastic.

The pilot i am using is the BBI "Doc Miller" they are going for about $100 USD on ebay but i got lucky and got mine for $30. I also bought Dragon's "George Taylor" (aution finished before Doc Millers so i ended up with two pilots). George taylor is fine and normally heaps cheaper then Doc, it just that i wanted the oxy mask for my guy. it looks so cool!!

The gear, Yes in the standard position as per the plans, it seems pretty close to me from the scale drawing i have. The scale sized gear doors are way to big for this model because it would require you to cut back the sheeting over the main spar. Not prepared to do that, i sized the doors so that they finish at the main spar. Inner door length is 110mm and outters are 135mm long.

My strut lenght is correct. Took my time to make sure of that. The problem with my outter doors lie in that they are of a scale size, But because the gear on a real mustang compresses while on the ground, and the model's doesn't, they look shorter. If i was to make them again, i would make the inners smaller again and the outter a little longer to compensate.

THe 2-pak paint advise was for your plug for the malcom hood..... but i think you understood what i was trying to get at

All the best with your plug and i'm looking forward to hear how it came out.

Thanks

John Cole

My Feedback: (4)

Ticketec; Joey... Looks really good you guys. Keep up the splendid work!


John

ticketec

My Feedback: (2)

THanks John,

The gear doors structure is all your idea

Hope mine comes out half as good as yours..

Thanks

ticketec

My Feedback: (2)

THanks John,

The gear doors structure is all your idea

Hope mine comes out half as good as yours..

Thanks

saramos

I got my struts in and also just received the parts for the rotory drive for the ailerons. I've ordered the Robart retracting tailwheel, it should arive this week. I've also orderd some G10 and some Fliteskin. I may cover the tail group in Flightskin, and will use the G10 for making parts.
I've been studying the plans and I see that the mods to the wing is may complicate the placement of the wing bolts. By decreasing the forward sweep at the root, it moves the location of the wing bolts to the edge of the gear bay. Perhaps If I slightly tilt the angle of the bolts foreward, I can get enough clearance. I wonder if theres a way to further hide the wingbolts? Perhaps some type of spring loaded pin system. Any thoughts?

Scott

John Cole

My Feedback: (4)

Scott, Good question about wing bolt placement. I've thought about this as well, and while I've not actually tried this yet, could the wing bolts be INSIDE the wheel bays as a way to conceal them? There would be some engineering involved.


John