elmshoot

My Feedback: (6)

Kelvin,
I went to your wedsite. How do I order the Spit exhaust? It isn't listed. The link you have in post #168 doesn't work with my ancient computer systems. You can email me at [email protected]
Sparky

Rip n Bank

Kelvin,

Related question: are you considering making a scale Mustang exhaust for the new H9 1.50 size P-51 and the Saito 220? Now that this ARF is on the shelves, this is probably a match-up we're going to see more of!

Saw on your web site that you have a slimline Pitts style for the 220, which is a likely choice for this combo, but I may go with a scale exhaust should you make one available.

Bo

prophead

My Feedback: (25)

The scale exhaust I made for the old H-9 1.5 P-51 will also fit the new H-9 P-51, the exhaust is currently designed for a Saito 200i, and the Saito 180. I would need to see pictures of that 220 mounted in the plane before I can tell if I could even physicly make the exhaust fit the 220, then there is the question of will it actually run on that exhaust without problems.

Kelvin

lazaras

I am building the H9 Spit and putting the FA-100 Saito in the plane. I am trying to make the cowl as permanent as possible and have installed a remote fule filler and an extension on the high speed adjustment. I do not know where to route the crank case vent tube? Do a lot of fluids come out of this tube. This is my first experience with a four stroke engine. Where would you route this tube. Also how do you access the low speed adjustment? Is it necessay to adjust the low speed often? Any ideas on where to route the receiver antenna also would be appreciated.

Rip n Bank

Lazaras,

I also made my H9 60 P-51 cowl as "permanent as possible," also. I also added the remote filler, and have an extension on the high-speed mixture adjustment, as you do.

You do need to vent the crankcase to the outside, preferrably at the bottom of the plane along the firewall. Enough comes out of it that you don't want it depositing inside the cowl! Drill a 1/4" diameter hole in the bottom center of the cowl along the firewall, and hold the tube in place, with maybe 1/4" extending beyond the cowl, with a small U-clamp on the firewall.

Just like the hole for the high-speed needle, A CAREFUL set of measurements will allow you to drill a ~1/4" hole aligned over the idle adjustment screw. That will allow you to slide in a narrow screwdriver and turn the screw. You will adjust this periodically as the engine breaks in, or as it naturally falls out of adjustment.

I route my receiver antenna in an antenna tube down the interior length of the fuselage (all my glow are 60-size or larger, so there's plenty of room). Keep it as far as possible from tail surface metal control rods, and you shouldn't have any interference problems. At least, none of my planes exhibit any...

Bo

Rip n Bank

Oops! Man, it's a Monday and I need more coffee!

Regarding that 1/4" hole for the crankcase vent: you should already have a MUCH larger hole back there anyway for exhausting the engine cooling airflow. I think the rule of thumb is three times the area of the cooling air intake in front of the engine.

Simply drop the crankcase tube of of that large air vent (I still clamp mine on the firewall).

bigplumbs

Have a look at my full detailed build thread over on RC Groups

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=597267

The crankcase vent should just be left to hang out of the hole in the bottom of the cowl. You will need to drill a hole form the idle adjustment.

Dennis

bigplumbs

Had three flights on the Spitfire today and used the flaps for the first time. Dont rearly need them at my field but wanted to give them a go. When deployer she balloned quite aq lot so will have to mix in some down elevator.... I was wondering how much to put in. Has anyone done this yet

Dennis

mmlong

This is for Highstrut. I did the same thing with my retracts. Only I still can not figure where the flat spring goes! Can you help?

codimasta

My Feedback: (89)

[8D]It is not a spring, but a metal stop...it goes to the side that the set screw is on the moveable side...the set screw adjusts the angle that the strut sets...confusing...do you want a picture ????

Codimasta
AMA 11269

rcspec

My Feedback: (15)

Hey Guys,

I have a question. How much clearance is there from the exhaust port to the cowl with a Saito 100 installed? I am considering a header/muffler coming out next month that may fit inside the cowl and route the exhaust out the bottom. Any help is appreciated. Thanks.



Jim

bigplumbs

Jim

There is very little clearance indeed. I have several pictures that might help you over on my detailed build thread over on RC Groups at this link

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=597267

Dennis

www.densplanes.co.uk

Rip n Bank

Jim,

Given that the cowl designs of the H9 Spit and P-51 60 are similarly narrow, and both slope upward at the "chin", I doubt you would have any more space there than I do on my H9 P-51 with its Saito 100.

On that plane, measuring on a straight header pipe, there is 1/2" along the bottom of the header pipe from the cylinder head to the cowl, and 1-1/8" along the top of the header pipe to the cowl.

Bet the Spit is very similar.

Bo

Bo

rcspec

My Feedback: (15)

Thanks for the information, Bo. That seems a bit tighter than I remember. I had the P-51 60 size at one time. Now I have the 1.50. Looking at the front of the spit without the cowl, it doesn't seem the engine would come outside the box width. All I need is about 7/8" for my header to fit.

Thanks again.

Jim

rcspec

My Feedback: (15)

Dennis, thanks for the link. It will be useful when I start on mine.

Jim

TapZ

Has anyone a picture of a H9 spit where you have used flat clear spray? I really like the H9 spit, but Im not thrilled about that glossy look.

pdansalvish

My Feedback: (23)

Has anyone put a RCV 91CD into this bird. I'm curious on how you mounted it with the 3mm offset.

Thanks
Dave

Nitrodan73

My Feedback: (12)

If I were to get air retracts from Robart, which ones would work in the H 9 Spitfire? I'd probably get struts and all.

Also what kind of paint do you spray on to make the finish a little flatter and fuel proof. I know this question has been asked a million times. I can't find the answer.

stallwart

I can't help with the retract question, but try this here stuff for a flat topcoat.

It's Top Flite (Monokote) spray laquer. I've used it a time or two and it holds up well. I've heard that it reacts with sunlight and turns a bit darker, but so far, I can't attest to that.

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...p?&I=LXCZW4&P=

proulxlaw

My Feedback: (3)

This is good stuff. It holds up well in my experience and will make your plane look alot more like a plane than a shiny new x-mas present. It will however create darker spots in the sun. It happened to my .60 size zero. At first it annoyed me but it actually made the plane look weathered.

I have had good success with it and all I run is 30%.

TapZ

Nice. I would like to see a picture of a plane with this stuff on. How much does it flatten the surface? I think the H9 spit is a bit too shiny.

lazaras

I have finished the Spitfire and installed the receiver. I am using all JR 821 servos and a 791 retract servo. I have a JR7202 7 channel radio with a JR720 rx. I am using a 4500 mah 6 volt battery. When I turn it on almost all of the servos make noise as if stuck. Even when I release the servo arms the servos make noise. This is on the work bench and at different freq. This is also set for ppm modulation.
Do you folks have any idea why this is happening? If this is the incorrect forum for this post, I apologize. Happy new year.

bigplumbs

That is a massive flight battery 4500 mah are you sure,,, 1200 mah is plenty... anyway that isn't your problem.........

It might be that your servos dont like 6 volts (5 cells) some don't like 6 volts

Also the JR821 is a digital servo and most if not all digital servos make noise all the time they are doing this to maintain a true centre position.... Accepting the noise do the servos respond properly to stick movement on your TX ?

Dennis

www.densplanes.co.uk

lazaras

Dennis,
The servos react just fine to control movement. I have a Nexstar that uses the same servos and makes no noise. I have tried the 1100 mah 4.5 volt battery and still get the chatter. I am using the large capacity battery in case the retract servo gets hung up. Do you think all the chatter will cause the battery to drain very quickly?
Laz

bigplumbs

If you are concerned about the retract servo stalling and draining the bat it is far better to use a second flight battery and switch for the retracts. This is very easy and is described in my detailed build thread for the Spitfire here http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=597267

on page 15 post 216.

This will always mantain one battery for the flight surfaces.

When you get the noise from the servos are they all connected to the plane because if not a digital servo with nothing to pull against will chatter as it trys to centralise. Dig Servos do uses more power but no need for 4000 mah