bigtim

My Feedback: (13)

holy smoke Hepdog the pink stuff is our deep winter I'm going snowboarding fluid,so I dont get ice on my windshield going to Tahoe, I think our blue is just alcohol,soap,and water probably why its 1.99

Gringo Flyer

My Feedback: (18)

How much alcohol do you normally put in your paint? I assume you use water as your thinner and just add a small amount of alcohol? Ticketec, not trying to hijac your thread I am just in the process of learning to glass and paint and have lots of questions!

warbirdrc

are you guy using latex paint and clear coat with glow fuel
will no damage the paint?

Craig-RCU

Add some corn starch to the satin finish to flatten it more. You'll have to experiment with the mix ratios for your given WBPU and application method.

ticketec

My Feedback: (2)

Hey Warbird-rc,

That's the plan!!! Plenty of people have been moving towards water based paints for their models because it's so safer to use and cheaper. If your using Gas engines, then my understanding i that there is no need for a clear coat, but for glow engines, you gotta clear!

Hey Craig-RCU

Corn-starch? sound interesting!! i'll have to do a test piece to see how it works out. Thanks for that one

How do people find these things out???? It's like, how did they find out that if you prepare that poisonous fish the japanese eat a certain way, it's normally safe??? well, more like, how many people died to learn that one?

Thanks

bigtim

My Feedback: (13)

I learned about using latex products from the Tom Pierce SBD Dauntless thread on www.RCWarbirds.com he did a bunch of performance tests with weight comparisons and stuff and since I was used to using the products it seamed like a logical choice being less toxic and easer to clean up.
I also read about using WB poly for clear coat someplace here at RCU so I used my favorite floor finish for glassing as well as for the clear coat.
as for adding alcohol you can use it strait full strength for spraying it evaporates fast like laquer thinner but it can "burn" the finish,dulling the sheen, with glossy paints I use about 15% water and 5% alcohol when spraying latex for house painting I would think a 50/50 mix fo alcohol and water would be fine also.
I would add for my planes I have had good results with automobile window washer fluid, the blue colored type, normal temp stuff.
there is also paint conditioners such as floetrol its a additive that will slow the dry time down for a smoother finish but generally you want a faster set not slower for models, its best to find the mix that works for your set up just keep track of your mixes and the amount of thinner to paint ratios you use untill you find a satisfactory mix for your uses.
there's alot of factors like the pressure your gun or brush operates at and getting good flow at a smooth rate, and not a splattery spitting mess that you can't control.

Craig-RCU

I make no claims that adding corn starch to WBPU will make the mixture edible!!!

Another option is "Tamiya Acrylic X21 Flat Base." It is an additive to make acrylic paints flat. It is a very effective flattening agent and a little goes a long way. I haven't tried compatibility with any WBPU brands, but it is an acrylic based product. If you let it settle and just use the solids at the bottom of the bottle that might mitigate any incompatability issues if any are observed in testing.

camdyson

I'm about to clearcoat my 1/4 Eindecker - covered in Solartex and markings/weathering are a combination of auto acrylic and humbrol enamels. It's on petrol, clearcoat is just to keep the Solartex cleaner.

I WAS going to spray on polyurethane from cans, but $$$$!!!!! (BIG wing area on this thing) so would like to brush on water-based polyurethane - satin - from cans (as in 4l). Anyone see a problem with this?

Brushed-on will suit the WWI finish I'm after too.

Cheers,

Cam

bigtim

My Feedback: (13)

hey cam just make sure you stir the WB poly before you start brushing, the satining agents tend to settle on the bottom of the can, and if you shake the stuff it will bubble up and can affect your final finish results.
also don't over brush the stuff it drys so fast that as long as you get it on the surface it should smooth its self out when you brush it too much it tends to "rope" makes lines in the surface that will show up,its best to do a couple of fast thin coats,letting each dry, rather than one thick layer.

BobH

My Feedback: (2)

Tips on using Nelson's flat clear. Thin it nearly 50% with water for your air brush.. I sometimes brush it on first using a foam brush thinned so that it flows well. I go over that with an air brush. It levels the clear and makes it look a lil flatter. The more water added to the clear the flatter it looks. Ive never managed to get it dead flat.. so I can't speak to that.

camdyson

Thanks bigtim,

Just went and bought a 500ml tin of Satin water based poly, so I'll see how it goes. At $25 Aus I hope it's enough!

Cheers,

Cam