TF engine choice
#1
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From: Montreal, CANADA
I want to give the RCV engines a try, the objective being swinging an 4 blade prop.
The RCV SP series seems like a good candidate since the Fury cowling would provide direct cooling. The question is should I get the 90 SP or the 120 SP ?
has anyone tried one of these in TF kit?
The RCV SP series seems like a good candidate since the Fury cowling would provide direct cooling. The question is should I get the 90 SP or the 120 SP ?
has anyone tried one of these in TF kit?
#2
The Sea fury swung a 5 bladed prop so a 4 bladed prop would be as stupid as a 2 bladed prop. Save your money and give up on the scale prop stuff. Make a nice static prop. Having said that, I would go for the 120. Yes I know, the Sea Furies that have non original engines swing 4 bladed props.
#3
Vasek,
I don't know if "stupid" would describe using a 4 bladed prop on this plane with that engine.
I would however suggest seeking an answer from the engine distributor to see what they might suggest for this installation.
I don't know if "stupid" would describe using a 4 bladed prop on this plane with that engine.
I would however suggest seeking an answer from the engine distributor to see what they might suggest for this installation.
#6
For the Sea Fury, I would suggest the 120 over the 90. RCV SPs are one of only two ways to use a large multi blade prop on a plane this size. The other way is to go electric, which would be a bit more expensive.
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From: Montreal, CANADA
Thanks saramos for the informative answer! I also think this combo should work well 
as for those who use the word "stupid" instead of "I don't know" well....

Cheers, Vasek

as for those who use the word "stupid" instead of "I don't know" well....


Cheers, Vasek
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From: Simpsonville,
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vasek,
There is an RCV 120SP up for bid on eBay now. As I write this there are four days remaining and the bid is up to $202. According to the information the engine's owner provided, the RCV 120 can swing a 15.5 X 12 four-blade prop. He used this engine in an ARF Hellcat with a 72" wingspan and said it flew his plane well. And, no, it's not my engine.
I'll throw in my dos centavos here with regard to the number of prop blades. Once the engine is running, no one will know how many blades are turning. In our models, being considerably smaller than their full-size counterparts, a two-blade prop is much more efficient than a prop of three or four blades. Let's face it, a full-scale designer, racer or fighter pilot would kill to have the power to weight ratio we enjoy with our models. While P-40 Driver may share the sensitivity of my supervisor at work, I have to agree that a static prop would be your best bet while your Fury is parked in the pits. But, hey. That's just me.
Al
There is an RCV 120SP up for bid on eBay now. As I write this there are four days remaining and the bid is up to $202. According to the information the engine's owner provided, the RCV 120 can swing a 15.5 X 12 four-blade prop. He used this engine in an ARF Hellcat with a 72" wingspan and said it flew his plane well. And, no, it's not my engine.
I'll throw in my dos centavos here with regard to the number of prop blades. Once the engine is running, no one will know how many blades are turning. In our models, being considerably smaller than their full-size counterparts, a two-blade prop is much more efficient than a prop of three or four blades. Let's face it, a full-scale designer, racer or fighter pilot would kill to have the power to weight ratio we enjoy with our models. While P-40 Driver may share the sensitivity of my supervisor at work, I have to agree that a static prop would be your best bet while your Fury is parked in the pits. But, hey. That's just me.
Al
#13
Here ya go. There are two issues with the RCV engine. One is, the glow plug is uncomfortably close to the prop, and RCV recommends the use of a remote glow. I chose to build an onboard glow using a microswitch which is activated with a wheel collar on the throttle linkage and a Nimh battery. The other issue is cooling a fully cowled engine. To resolve this, I use a small electric ducted fan with it's own ecs and lipo battery to exhaust the hot air out the bottom of the cowl. For the air inlet, I did not cut any holes in the cowl, I left a slightly larger gap between the spinner backplate and the front of the cowl. The cooling works well. Another thing to be aware of is the way the RCV mounts. I ended up making an extention to the engine mount box to place the engine in the right spot. I reinforced the box with carbon veil.
Scott
Scott
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From: Charlotte,
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Vasek,
I've got a Bolly 15x12.5 with a RCV91SP on my 1/8 TF P-51 and it works great. I had to be careful with the baffling for cooling though, the RCV tends to need a lot of cooling. I agree with Saramos, a 4 blade prop would look a lot cooler than a 2 blade.
I've got a Bolly 15x12.5 with a RCV91SP on my 1/8 TF P-51 and it works great. I had to be careful with the baffling for cooling though, the RCV tends to need a lot of cooling. I agree with Saramos, a 4 blade prop would look a lot cooler than a 2 blade.
#16
ORIGINAL: rrudytoo
vasek,
There is an RCV 120SP up for bid on eBay now. As I write this there are four days remaining and the bid is up to $202. According to the information the engine's owner provided, the RCV 120 can swing a 15.5 X 12 four-blade prop. He used this engine in an ARF Hellcat with a 72" wingspan and said it flew his plane well. And, no, it's not my engine.
vasek,
There is an RCV 120SP up for bid on eBay now. As I write this there are four days remaining and the bid is up to $202. According to the information the engine's owner provided, the RCV 120 can swing a 15.5 X 12 four-blade prop. He used this engine in an ARF Hellcat with a 72" wingspan and said it flew his plane well. And, no, it's not my engine.
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From: , MA
Saramos,
That's a nice looking spitfire. Would you share some details about the plane? I'm working on a kmp 1/7 scale and a yellow 1/5 scale project. Would like to run a 4-5 blade prop like you have. What kit /arf do have and could you show me some pictures of your set up. looks like a working radio hatch door, etc. Any info would be much appreciated. It would be nice if there was a place on rcu to get complete specs on some of these well built, succesful performers. Would save a lot of guess work, research, and the reinventing of the wheel. Also any line on a really good, light-weight, scale like, air operated, retractable tail wheel?
Thanks,
Rick
That's a nice looking spitfire. Would you share some details about the plane? I'm working on a kmp 1/7 scale and a yellow 1/5 scale project. Would like to run a 4-5 blade prop like you have. What kit /arf do have and could you show me some pictures of your set up. looks like a working radio hatch door, etc. Any info would be much appreciated. It would be nice if there was a place on rcu to get complete specs on some of these well built, succesful performers. Would save a lot of guess work, research, and the reinventing of the wheel. Also any line on a really good, light-weight, scale like, air operated, retractable tail wheel?
Thanks,
Rick
#18
Hi Rick.
I built this from the Top Flite Gold edition kit. Retracts are Robart 605s with struts and dave brown wheels. I made my own radiators because I didn't like the shape of the kit ones, too boxy. I also skinned the ailerons because the Mk IV has metal covered ailerons. I added a hatch where the radio hatch is located on the Spit. It's hinged using a couple of dubro hinges, held shut with a catch made of a plastic tube and a small epoxy lump on the frame. I mounted a rare earth magnet in the hatch so I can open it with almost any metal tool. The exhaust stack was made by creating a model of one stack using modeling clay. I then made a silicon mold and cast resin parts. I then hollowed them out, mounted them on a strip of styrene, cut out the original stacks and mounted the replacements. I made a detachable chin scoop by shaping it out of florest foam, then fiberglassing over it and then removing the foam. It's held on with rare earth magnets and removed for flight (it covers the exhaust pipe and exhaust fan). The plane is glassed with .7 oz glass and West Systems epoxy. I used Duplicolor primers for filling the weave and making surface details. The Panel lines were made with 1/64" chart tape and primer for the butt joints and masking tape and primer for the lap joints. The rivets are 'burned-in' using a small brass tube mounted to the tip of an iron (I used the Top Flite trim iron). The paint was airbrushed latex exterior house paint color matched from a book I found that had all the Brittish color chips. The scheme is MK732 painted as H-25 of the RNAF cerca 1950. The markings and weathering are done with Humbrol and Model Masters paints. It's all clearcoated using a satin waterbased polyurethane. The cockpit was scratch built, and the pilot is from Century Jets. All up weight is 10 lbs 10 oz. There's some photo in my gallery, and I made a number of posts in Tubig's TF Spitfire Build thread during construction. This was my first scale build.
Scott
I built this from the Top Flite Gold edition kit. Retracts are Robart 605s with struts and dave brown wheels. I made my own radiators because I didn't like the shape of the kit ones, too boxy. I also skinned the ailerons because the Mk IV has metal covered ailerons. I added a hatch where the radio hatch is located on the Spit. It's hinged using a couple of dubro hinges, held shut with a catch made of a plastic tube and a small epoxy lump on the frame. I mounted a rare earth magnet in the hatch so I can open it with almost any metal tool. The exhaust stack was made by creating a model of one stack using modeling clay. I then made a silicon mold and cast resin parts. I then hollowed them out, mounted them on a strip of styrene, cut out the original stacks and mounted the replacements. I made a detachable chin scoop by shaping it out of florest foam, then fiberglassing over it and then removing the foam. It's held on with rare earth magnets and removed for flight (it covers the exhaust pipe and exhaust fan). The plane is glassed with .7 oz glass and West Systems epoxy. I used Duplicolor primers for filling the weave and making surface details. The Panel lines were made with 1/64" chart tape and primer for the butt joints and masking tape and primer for the lap joints. The rivets are 'burned-in' using a small brass tube mounted to the tip of an iron (I used the Top Flite trim iron). The paint was airbrushed latex exterior house paint color matched from a book I found that had all the Brittish color chips. The scheme is MK732 painted as H-25 of the RNAF cerca 1950. The markings and weathering are done with Humbrol and Model Masters paints. It's all clearcoated using a satin waterbased polyurethane. The cockpit was scratch built, and the pilot is from Century Jets. All up weight is 10 lbs 10 oz. There's some photo in my gallery, and I made a number of posts in Tubig's TF Spitfire Build thread during construction. This was my first scale build.
Scott



