funkymeter2003

Hello, I am building the 1/6 pica fw 190d kit (.60 size) which is discontinued. I am looking for advice on retracts to install, I have no experience in this area (installing or using retracts). I realize this has probably been addressed before but with ever changing technology I wanted to get a fresh opinion. i fly from a grass field that is not the smoothest but isn't awful either. I guess my priorities would be:
-Function/dependability/durability
-Price
-Ease of use/installation

Thanks for any help

Evil_Merlin

My Feedback: (13)

Ebay usually has the CJM retracts, from a company called OmniModels. Right now they only have the retracts for the Top Flight bird. The TF Fw 190 has a wingspan of 63.5". The Pica is 65" I think. You may be OK using the ones for the Top Flite...

But you can always call CJM.

spad

Hi funkymeter

I'm building a Pica 190 and using the Mick Reeves mechanicals which he has designed for use with his own 190D9 which is to a similar scale as the Pica/TF versions. Very nice, very robust with positive up/down locks [8D]


try this link and go to "accessories"
http://www.mickreevesmodels.co.uk/

cheers
Rick

bigtim

My Feedback: (13)

tower sells retracts for the pica FW 190 there Century jet http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXA795&P=0 complete set up

Larry S

My Feedback: (6)

Yes bigtim,
Tower does have the Century Jet units. I don't in any way want to start another retract war but having had the Century Jet units and having had the problems I had with them, I don't in any way recommend them. Not the FW 190 units. My set was an early set and had a small pin attached to the unit and strut and that pin would bend very easly. We also have a grass field and isn't all that smooth and my retracts bent just while taxing out to the runway. I then switched to Spring Airs simply because they would accept my Century Jet oleos which are 3/8". This plane, which is also a Pica FW 190 has flown for several years without once a problem with the SpringAir retracts. I sent a picture to show you what I'm talking about. Hope this helps you. By the way, I have been told that Century Jet has taken care of this problem but I would check it out before you buy.
Larry

PS: After I wrote the above I thought of something else that I"m sure will help you. I had problems with this plane nosing over because the wheels were to close to the CG so what I did was shim the retracts so the wheel axles are even with the leading edge of the wing. By doing that, the wheels will be on a slight angle when retracted but you won't have the plane nosing over while taxing on your grass field. Also, forget about that scale look of the FW gears. I believe anytime you have a gear on such an angle you'll have problems with them bending especially on a rough grass field such as ours. I rather have a plane that flies nice and have to do no work after each flight then have a scale model that only looks great but handles terrible.

bigtim

My Feedback: (13)

I keep hearing this all the time mine(I have 2 sets of them)they seem to be fine and neither stronger or weaker than any other brand out there that I have, or have seen, poster aked if there was gear I posted a link to em.
I should add I fly off astro turf which is almost as smooth as asphalt with less rash when you crash!

Tommy_Gun

Use the spring airs at the top of this page.

http://www.skysharkrc.com/shop/?shop=1&cat=8

Get them here, http://www.retracts.com/Retrax_700.htm

They have not failed me yet in a year of flying them every weekend on my Top Flite 190D9

Larry S

My Feedback: (6)

Bigtim,
Is the gears you have the ones for the FW 190? I would assume that flying off a smoth runway would be ok with them until you have that first "hard" landing, then the pins will bend. On mine, I didn't even get in position for take off on it's maiden flight and was I pissed. Then to add insult to injury, I contacted CJ and they "sold" me a new set of pins for $5 each and they bent. Now you may be thinking I'm doing carrier landings and I rest assure you, they were nice landing but on a rough field. That's when I said, I had enough of them. Only reason I went to SpringAirs is because they accepted the 3/8 strut without that blasted pin. There are other units out there that I could have used just as well, like Robart.
Larry

joey_snaproll

My Feedback: (32)

Hey Larry,does the JC retract pins look like music wire? What size are the pins, 3/16 or 1/4 "? Is there any machinest's out there that can tell the rest of use that own a set of these retracts what kind of material to get so it will work?

Or is it drill out and go up to the next size music wire .

Thanks
Joe

aghost

My Feedback: (13)

Joe, The CJ retract pin has two diameters. The larger diameter fits into the oleo. The smaller diameter fits into the retract mechanism. The pins bend at the diameter change. I don't think the retract mechanism is large enough to drill out to match the oleo pin size.

My experience with CJ retracts on a TF FW-190 is similar to that of Larry S. The pins bent too easily. I had a machinist make new pins out of harder steel, but one eventually sheared at the diameter change point. I went to the Spring Air retracts and kept the CJ oleos. Thirty plus flights later this setup is still working.


Brian

funkymeter2003

Thank you all so much for all of your advice. It seems the spring air might be the way to go. When you purchase them from the retracts .com link you need to supply the piano wire it looks like? Also thanks for the advice on the placement of the retracts near the leading edge, I could see noseovers being a problem. I am sure I will be coming to you all for more advice as I start my build. I am already fretting over the covering (I know I am a long way off) but what is the best solution, I hate to use ultracote when other options look much nicer but have only ever covered a plane using ultracote. Thanks again everybody, all of your input really helped!

Larry S

My Feedback: (6)

I went to the Spring Air retracts and kept the CJ oleos. Thirty plus flights later this setup is still working.

aghost,
sounds good to me. That is exactly the setup I have and it works very good
funkymeter2003,
your question will no doubt bring many ideas so pick the one you think will be best for you. I did not use any covering as I glassed my complete plane before applying primmer then painted it. You can get several ideas on glassing by reading other threads on RCUniverse. What I like about using paint, no wrinkles to ever fool with and I find it easier to paint then to cover with any material. There is no trick to painting but you do need to have the proper tools to do the best work. As for glassing, I have found the more you do it, the easier it gets. Just have the proper items on hand before you do the glassing, like 3/4 glass cloth, a good cutter to cut the cloth, latex gloves, finishing epoxy, disposable cups and sticks, deck of cards and toilet paper. Also make sure you have the proper temperature for the epoxy to set up, at lease over 60 degree. Included is a pic of my FW 190, glassed and painted.
Larry