YELLOW AT-6 TEXAN BUILD THREAD
01-10-2008, 07:42 AM
#51
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RE: YELLOW AT-6 TEXAN BUILD THREAD
ORIGINAL: samparfitt
I found some panel line prints.
I found some panel line prints.
I ordered and have one of these that we used to get locations of lines, etc.................pretty nice.
http://www.aviationshoppe.com/catalo...xan-p-102.html
01-10-2008, 12:07 PM
#53
RE: YELLOW AT-6 TEXAN BUILD THREAD
For the use of a radial, there's about 6" from the fire wall to the back of the prop.
One nice thing about non-spinner planes is you can have the engine shaft stick out farther without most people noticing.
------------------------
Connecting the inner flaps to the outer flaps.
pic 1:
We're going to make ply end caps and tabs to interlock the outer flaps to the inner flap.
I cut some 1/8" thick ply and traced the end of the flap profile on the ply.
I bought one of those cheap 5 buck window insulator kits at HD and used the double stick tape(nice and thin, all the other double stick tape is too thick) to hold the four end caps together.
After cutting most of the waste away on the band saw, I sanded the rest of the profile on a small wheel sander.
pic 2:
I drilled some very small holes in all four corners where the tabs will be placed for ease in cutting the holes.
pic 3:
Here's the final shapes of the flap end caps and the tabs.
I sanded an angle on the rounded end of the tab to ease in connecting them when at the field.
pic 4:
The end caps and tabs epoxied to the ends of the flaps: inner flap gets a cap on each end and each outer wing gets one end cap and the tab. Since the outer wing has dihedral, I cut the slot for the tab at an angle so the tab will go in parallel to the inner flap.
Use good quality multi-ply for the end caps.
1/8" of balsa needs to be cut away on each end of the inner flap and on one end of the outer flaps to make room for the 1/8" ply end caps.
pic 5:
Before sliding the outer wing into the inner wing.
pic 6:
After sliding the outer wing into the inner wing.
pic 7/8:
flaps deployed.
pic 9:
I used a 1/8" diameter grinder to clean out the balsa for the tabs.
One nice thing about non-spinner planes is you can have the engine shaft stick out farther without most people noticing.
------------------------
Connecting the inner flaps to the outer flaps.
pic 1:
We're going to make ply end caps and tabs to interlock the outer flaps to the inner flap.
I cut some 1/8" thick ply and traced the end of the flap profile on the ply.
I bought one of those cheap 5 buck window insulator kits at HD and used the double stick tape(nice and thin, all the other double stick tape is too thick) to hold the four end caps together.
After cutting most of the waste away on the band saw, I sanded the rest of the profile on a small wheel sander.
pic 2:
I drilled some very small holes in all four corners where the tabs will be placed for ease in cutting the holes.
pic 3:
Here's the final shapes of the flap end caps and the tabs.
I sanded an angle on the rounded end of the tab to ease in connecting them when at the field.
pic 4:
The end caps and tabs epoxied to the ends of the flaps: inner flap gets a cap on each end and each outer wing gets one end cap and the tab. Since the outer wing has dihedral, I cut the slot for the tab at an angle so the tab will go in parallel to the inner flap.
Use good quality multi-ply for the end caps.
1/8" of balsa needs to be cut away on each end of the inner flap and on one end of the outer flaps to make room for the 1/8" ply end caps.
pic 5:
Before sliding the outer wing into the inner wing.
pic 6:
After sliding the outer wing into the inner wing.
pic 7/8:
flaps deployed.
pic 9:
I used a 1/8" diameter grinder to clean out the balsa for the tabs.
01-10-2008, 04:29 PM
#54
RE: YELLOW AT-6 TEXAN BUILD THREAD
Glassing (cont)
pic 1/2:
Glassed the bottom sides of the flaps and ailerons with 0.5 oz FG cloth.
I overlaped the LE/TE by about a 1/2 inch.
Also did the aileron servo covers.
Called Bobby at Cactus and ordered a side mount muffler.
The muffler comes with a heating coil for smoke.
I also needed a mounting plate that was missing.
pic 1/2:
Glassed the bottom sides of the flaps and ailerons with 0.5 oz FG cloth.
I overlaped the LE/TE by about a 1/2 inch.
Also did the aileron servo covers.
Called Bobby at Cactus and ordered a side mount muffler.
The muffler comes with a heating coil for smoke.
I also needed a mounting plate that was missing.
01-10-2008, 11:58 PM
#55
RE: YELLOW AT-6 TEXAN BUILD THREAD
Hi Sam,
Great build thread on the Yellow Texan. Outstanding craftsmanship! I am also on my second one... my first was also a Yellow. It is still "almost flyable" with a Husky 5.7 on it .. really hauls the mail :-) It is gray, the Night Train scheme.
Next one is like your Ziroli color scheme. I wimped out and got it pre-painted from Yellow...
I had Kelvin from Keleo creatios do a scale exhaust for the plane, I am also using the side-carb 3W-75 .. here are some pics. I wanted to do it on the prior one, but the Husky exhaust is on the wrong side... would be too complex on the plumbing.
Dave
Great build thread on the Yellow Texan. Outstanding craftsmanship! I am also on my second one... my first was also a Yellow. It is still "almost flyable" with a Husky 5.7 on it .. really hauls the mail :-) It is gray, the Night Train scheme.
Next one is like your Ziroli color scheme. I wimped out and got it pre-painted from Yellow...
I had Kelvin from Keleo creatios do a scale exhaust for the plane, I am also using the side-carb 3W-75 .. here are some pics. I wanted to do it on the prior one, but the Husky exhaust is on the wrong side... would be too complex on the plumbing.
Dave
01-11-2008, 11:22 AM
#56
RE: YELLOW AT-6 TEXAN BUILD THREAD
Yo Dave,
That Keleo exhaust looks sweet.
Can't beat functional scale exhaust.
-----------
Glassing (cont).
pic 1:
After sanding off the cloth waste from the glassing of the bottom of the flaps and ailerons, I glassed the tops.
------------------
Tail feathers (cont)
pic 2:
The dowels that support the control horns were epoxied into the elevators.
pic 3:
The control horn support block was epoxied to the TE of the stab.
I drilled and added two wooden dowels for extra support: putting 266 oz of torque on a block epoxied to a soft balsa TE had me a little concerned. I'm also going to glass some heavy auto FG cloth around it.
I aligned the holes for the block with the hinge holes.
The hole in the block is offset (closer to one end) and this offset hole is suppose to be farthest from the TE of the stab.
I found better movement of the elevators by rotating the block 90 degrees and having the block holes closer to the TE of the stab.
This is also why the block is closer to the top surface than the lower surface.
(A good side view is seen in picture 7)
You may get different results but this worked best for me.
pic 4/5:
A dry fit of the stab, control horns and elevators.
pic 6:
I didn't realize it previously when I cut some of the fuse away to allow clearance for the stab that more of the fuse will have to be cut away to allow room for the control horn support block.
There is a white line in the picture where I used a razor saw to cut additional FG away on the fuse.
Obviously, only one side of the fuse needs to be cut.
pic 7:
After removing more of the fuse, the support block on the stab can slide into place.
pic 8:
Later, I'll epoxied that cut off part of the fuse back on, once the stab and elevator are connected.
pic 9:
With the control horns added.
pic 10/11/12:
Dry fit of all the parts.
There's a gap there for the original part of the fuse that was cut but I don't think it'll be very noticable.
That Keleo exhaust looks sweet.
Can't beat functional scale exhaust.
-----------
Glassing (cont).
pic 1:
After sanding off the cloth waste from the glassing of the bottom of the flaps and ailerons, I glassed the tops.
------------------
Tail feathers (cont)
pic 2:
The dowels that support the control horns were epoxied into the elevators.
pic 3:
The control horn support block was epoxied to the TE of the stab.
I drilled and added two wooden dowels for extra support: putting 266 oz of torque on a block epoxied to a soft balsa TE had me a little concerned. I'm also going to glass some heavy auto FG cloth around it.
I aligned the holes for the block with the hinge holes.
The hole in the block is offset (closer to one end) and this offset hole is suppose to be farthest from the TE of the stab.
I found better movement of the elevators by rotating the block 90 degrees and having the block holes closer to the TE of the stab.
This is also why the block is closer to the top surface than the lower surface.
(A good side view is seen in picture 7)
You may get different results but this worked best for me.
pic 4/5:
A dry fit of the stab, control horns and elevators.
pic 6:
I didn't realize it previously when I cut some of the fuse away to allow clearance for the stab that more of the fuse will have to be cut away to allow room for the control horn support block.
There is a white line in the picture where I used a razor saw to cut additional FG away on the fuse.
Obviously, only one side of the fuse needs to be cut.
pic 7:
After removing more of the fuse, the support block on the stab can slide into place.
pic 8:
Later, I'll epoxied that cut off part of the fuse back on, once the stab and elevator are connected.
pic 9:
With the control horns added.
pic 10/11/12:
Dry fit of all the parts.
There's a gap there for the original part of the fuse that was cut but I don't think it'll be very noticable.
01-11-2008, 11:25 AM
#57
RE: YELLOW AT-6 TEXAN BUILD THREAD
tail feathers (cont)
pic 1:
top view
pic 2:
The seam on the top between the fuse and stab is perfectly flush.
pic 3:
The seam on the bottom has a little gap.
Later, I'll have to hold the fuse fillet to the stab when I epoxy the two together.
pic 1:
top view
pic 2:
The seam on the top between the fuse and stab is perfectly flush.
pic 3:
The seam on the bottom has a little gap.
Later, I'll have to hold the fuse fillet to the stab when I epoxy the two together.
01-11-2008, 04:14 PM
#58
RE: YELLOW AT-6 TEXAN BUILD THREAD
tail feathers (cont)
pic 1:
I find that it's easier to first put the control horn in the support block and then slide the elevator into the control horn and hinges at the same time. Putting the control horn first into the elevator caused binding.
----------------------
Glassing flaps and ailerons (cont)
pic 2/3:
Here's the top after glassing and the waste overlap on the bottom.
pic 4:
After sanding all the waste FG cloth away.
--------------
Tail feathers (cont)
The next few posts are pictures of applying Solartex to the elevators.
Solartex is a woven fabric with an adhesive on the back and applied with a heating iron.
The fabric requires very low heat (100-120 C) to apply fabric to solid surfaces.
Most of this is 'old hat' to most of you but I've encluded lots of pictures for those unfamiliar with the procedure.
I basically, sealed the LE from the center out, seal the fabric to the center ribs and TE by the trim tab.
Then I did each end, again working from the center out, sealing the fabric to the wood, trimming about a 1/4" off the edge and wrapping the trim around to the other side.
Solartex is really easy to work with: it takes sharp compound curves if the overlap is kept short.
You have to take the iron and pull the iron around the curved edge over the solartex starting from the top and working toward the overlap.
pic 5:
The LE done first and then the center of the TE done next.
pic 6:
Inside edge.
pic 7:
Half overlap.
pic 8:
Sharp corner has multiple cuts since the overlap is about 3/8 of an inch.
pic 9/10:
About a 1/4 inch cut for the TE overlap.
pic 1:
I find that it's easier to first put the control horn in the support block and then slide the elevator into the control horn and hinges at the same time. Putting the control horn first into the elevator caused binding.
----------------------
Glassing flaps and ailerons (cont)
pic 2/3:
Here's the top after glassing and the waste overlap on the bottom.
pic 4:
After sanding all the waste FG cloth away.
--------------
Tail feathers (cont)
The next few posts are pictures of applying Solartex to the elevators.
Solartex is a woven fabric with an adhesive on the back and applied with a heating iron.
The fabric requires very low heat (100-120 C) to apply fabric to solid surfaces.
Most of this is 'old hat' to most of you but I've encluded lots of pictures for those unfamiliar with the procedure.
I basically, sealed the LE from the center out, seal the fabric to the center ribs and TE by the trim tab.
Then I did each end, again working from the center out, sealing the fabric to the wood, trimming about a 1/4" off the edge and wrapping the trim around to the other side.
Solartex is really easy to work with: it takes sharp compound curves if the overlap is kept short.
You have to take the iron and pull the iron around the curved edge over the solartex starting from the top and working toward the overlap.
pic 5:
The LE done first and then the center of the TE done next.
pic 6:
Inside edge.
pic 7:
Half overlap.
pic 8:
Sharp corner has multiple cuts since the overlap is about 3/8 of an inch.
pic 9/10:
About a 1/4 inch cut for the TE overlap.
01-11-2008, 04:21 PM
#59
RE: YELLOW AT-6 TEXAN BUILD THREAD
Tail feathers (cont)
Applying Solartex (cont)
pic 1:
Bottom of one side is done.
pic 2:
Overlap.
pic 3:
Bottom
pic 4:
I initially cut the solartex with the elevator perpendicular to the edge and had excess waste.
Cutting the solartex with the elevator parallel saved material.
pic 5/6/7:
The bottom of the left elevator being done.
pic 8:
End work.
pic 9/10:
TE cut and ironed.
Applying Solartex (cont)
pic 1:
Bottom of one side is done.
pic 2:
Overlap.
pic 3:
Bottom
pic 4:
I initially cut the solartex with the elevator perpendicular to the edge and had excess waste.
Cutting the solartex with the elevator parallel saved material.
pic 5/6/7:
The bottom of the left elevator being done.
pic 8:
End work.
pic 9/10:
TE cut and ironed.
01-11-2008, 04:28 PM
#60
RE: YELLOW AT-6 TEXAN BUILD THREAD
Tail feathers (cont)
Applying solartex (cont)
pic 1:
Ironing the edge of the TE, starting at the center of the edge and working toward both ends (trim end and LE end).
pic 2:
1/4" overlap.
pic 3/4/5/6:
trim tabs being done.
Used one piece of solartex, starting from the LE and working to the TE, one side at a time.
pic 7/8:
All parts done.
To tighten up the surfaces not contacting wood, I turned up the iron to about 130 degrees.
--------------
pic 9:
I thought our hobby was expensive.
I bought some Flemish (rippled) glass for my daughters kitchen cabinets.
$426 for a 12"X24" sheet and a 40"X52" sheet!
(nothings cheap anymore....except me!)
Applying solartex (cont)
pic 1:
Ironing the edge of the TE, starting at the center of the edge and working toward both ends (trim end and LE end).
pic 2:
1/4" overlap.
pic 3/4/5/6:
trim tabs being done.
Used one piece of solartex, starting from the LE and working to the TE, one side at a time.
pic 7/8:
All parts done.
To tighten up the surfaces not contacting wood, I turned up the iron to about 130 degrees.
--------------
pic 9:
I thought our hobby was expensive.
I bought some Flemish (rippled) glass for my daughters kitchen cabinets.
$426 for a 12"X24" sheet and a 40"X52" sheet!
(nothings cheap anymore....except me!)
01-12-2008, 03:02 PM
#61
RE: YELLOW AT-6 TEXAN BUILD THREAD
priming (cont)
pic 1:
Didn't get a whole lot done today.
I primered the flaps, ailerons and elevators.
pic 2:
I used an air brush on these small surfaces.
I had to thin the primer 50/50 with thinner to get the primer to flow through the air brush.
About time to watch eight hours of playoff games!
pic 1:
Didn't get a whole lot done today.
I primered the flaps, ailerons and elevators.
pic 2:
I used an air brush on these small surfaces.
I had to thin the primer 50/50 with thinner to get the primer to flow through the air brush.
About time to watch eight hours of playoff games!
01-14-2008, 12:53 PM
#62
RE: YELLOW AT-6 TEXAN BUILD THREAD
Priming (cont)
pic 1:
Wet sanded (220 grit) the flaps, ailerons with a light sanding of the elevators since this is solartex over ribs with no solid surface under most of the solartex.
pic 2:
The rudder has a pull/pull system so I epoxied in a 1/2" dowel with light balsa for support plus a hole through the center for the 4X40 rod.
pic 3:
Rudder covered with solartex.
I punched a hole in the fabric to know where to put the 4X40 rod when I prime the rudder.
pic 1:
Wet sanded (220 grit) the flaps, ailerons with a light sanding of the elevators since this is solartex over ribs with no solid surface under most of the solartex.
pic 2:
The rudder has a pull/pull system so I epoxied in a 1/2" dowel with light balsa for support plus a hole through the center for the 4X40 rod.
pic 3:
Rudder covered with solartex.
I punched a hole in the fabric to know where to put the 4X40 rod when I prime the rudder.
01-15-2008, 04:09 PM
#63
RE: YELLOW AT-6 TEXAN BUILD THREAD
priming (cont)
pic 1:
Re-sanded (wet 220 grit) the surfaces of the ailerons, flaps and elevators after putting on some glazing putty to fill in the imperfections.
pic 2:
Had to put some 2-part Evercoat easysand on the edge of an aileron that was damaged.
That glazing putting is only good for shallow surfaces whereas the easysand can take any abuse on the edge.
pic 3:
The 1/8" ply flap tabs epoxied in.
I put all the flaps and wings together while the epoxy was 'cooking' to insure all tabs aligned correctly.
-------------------
Tail feathers (cont)
pic 4/5:
Ready to epoxy stab to fuse.
Rough sanded and cleaned with alcohol, the inside of the fuse fillets.
I also epoxied some heavy duty FG cloth around the control horn block and stab and let it cure before putting the stab into the fuse.
Slid the stab into the fuse while the fuse is resting on its nose.
pic 6/7:
Measured from outside corner of TE at aileron to TE of stab (46 7/16" ) for alignment and
measured tail wheel well to stab tip to insure equal distance on both sides (14 11/16" ).
pic 8:
Stab parallel to wing.
This is pretty automatic since the top fillets holds the stab securely to the tail wheel former.
The stab was contacting the former along the entire edge.
Used Zap-a-Dap between the former and stab to hold the fuse and stab together before removing the wing and gluing the rest of the stab.
pic 9:
I put box tape over the bottom fuse fillet and stab and then used some clamps and bendable maple to hold the fillet against the stab.
pic 10:
Via the rear wheel well, I put Zap-a-Dap along the inside of the fuse fillet and stab.
The fuse is laying on its side so gravity will hold the Zap-a-Dap in place until it cures.
I did one side at a time.
pic 11:
The Zap-a-Dap product that I used.
pic 1:
Re-sanded (wet 220 grit) the surfaces of the ailerons, flaps and elevators after putting on some glazing putty to fill in the imperfections.
pic 2:
Had to put some 2-part Evercoat easysand on the edge of an aileron that was damaged.
That glazing putting is only good for shallow surfaces whereas the easysand can take any abuse on the edge.
pic 3:
The 1/8" ply flap tabs epoxied in.
I put all the flaps and wings together while the epoxy was 'cooking' to insure all tabs aligned correctly.
-------------------
Tail feathers (cont)
pic 4/5:
Ready to epoxy stab to fuse.
Rough sanded and cleaned with alcohol, the inside of the fuse fillets.
I also epoxied some heavy duty FG cloth around the control horn block and stab and let it cure before putting the stab into the fuse.
Slid the stab into the fuse while the fuse is resting on its nose.
pic 6/7:
Measured from outside corner of TE at aileron to TE of stab (46 7/16" ) for alignment and
measured tail wheel well to stab tip to insure equal distance on both sides (14 11/16" ).
pic 8:
Stab parallel to wing.
This is pretty automatic since the top fillets holds the stab securely to the tail wheel former.
The stab was contacting the former along the entire edge.
Used Zap-a-Dap between the former and stab to hold the fuse and stab together before removing the wing and gluing the rest of the stab.
pic 9:
I put box tape over the bottom fuse fillet and stab and then used some clamps and bendable maple to hold the fillet against the stab.
pic 10:
Via the rear wheel well, I put Zap-a-Dap along the inside of the fuse fillet and stab.
The fuse is laying on its side so gravity will hold the Zap-a-Dap in place until it cures.
I did one side at a time.
pic 11:
The Zap-a-Dap product that I used.
01-16-2008, 05:09 PM
#64
RE: YELLOW AT-6 TEXAN BUILD THREAD
Engine mounting.
pic 1:
The new muffler (left) came in today.
It's alot smaller than the old rear wraparound muffler.
pic 2:
Here's the top view of the 3W-75 on the fire wall.
I've got the engine rotated so the muffler exits near the bottom of the cowl.
Looks like I'm going to have to shorted the H/L needle valves to fit within the cowl.
A good size hole will have to be made in the bottom of the cowl for the engine head.
pic 3/4/5:
Left side, top and right side views.
pic 6:
Looks like I'll have to make some standoffs that are about 3/8" long to clear the cowl front.
pic 1:
The new muffler (left) came in today.
It's alot smaller than the old rear wraparound muffler.
pic 2:
Here's the top view of the 3W-75 on the fire wall.
I've got the engine rotated so the muffler exits near the bottom of the cowl.
Looks like I'm going to have to shorted the H/L needle valves to fit within the cowl.
A good size hole will have to be made in the bottom of the cowl for the engine head.
pic 3/4/5:
Left side, top and right side views.
pic 6:
Looks like I'll have to make some standoffs that are about 3/8" long to clear the cowl front.
01-22-2008, 05:13 PM
#66
RE: YELLOW AT-6 TEXAN BUILD THREAD
With that short nose, I think a lot of weight will be needed (I'm guessing 3-5 lbs).
--------------------
Engine mount (cont).
pic 1/2:
The cowl was cut for the engine head and exhaust pipe.
I pretty big hole but at least it's on the bottom of the cowl and I shouldn't have any over-heating problems!
I'll probably chop off some of the exhaust stack.
pic 3:
I used the largest bolts possible to fit the engine mount, drilled those holes in the 3/8" thick 'standoff' ply, and centered punched the firewall for drilling the bolt holes.
pic 4:
Blind nuts used.
pic 5/6:
Engine mounted.
I just used some washers on the head side of the bolts to prevent the bolt head from damaging the fire wall ply while I used an allen wrench to pull the blind nuts into the back of the fire wall.
pic 7/8:
Cowl dry fitted onto the fire wall.
The round FG mounting plate for the cowl is suppose to have the smooth side up but I reversed it to move the cowl an extra 1/4" forward. This makes the cowl have very little overlap on the firewall but it gives me extra room for the muffler.
This muffler isn't the best fit for this narrow depth cowl but there's not a lot of inexpensive options available.
It also appears that there's no 2-3 degree offset built into the firewall so I'll have to add a few washers to one side of the 3/8" mounting plate to get the engine offset to negate the left torque.
------------------
Tail feathers (cont)
pic 9:
I used thick CA to re-attach that 'cut out' part of the fuse that we previously cut off to get the stab into the fuse.
I also masked off the fuse and stab to control where the 'bondo' will be applied in the next step.
pic 10/11:
Used Evercoat, two part easysand to make an easy transition from the fuse to the stab on the top and bottom of the stab.
--------------------
Engine mount (cont).
pic 1/2:
The cowl was cut for the engine head and exhaust pipe.
I pretty big hole but at least it's on the bottom of the cowl and I shouldn't have any over-heating problems!
I'll probably chop off some of the exhaust stack.
pic 3:
I used the largest bolts possible to fit the engine mount, drilled those holes in the 3/8" thick 'standoff' ply, and centered punched the firewall for drilling the bolt holes.
pic 4:
Blind nuts used.
pic 5/6:
Engine mounted.
I just used some washers on the head side of the bolts to prevent the bolt head from damaging the fire wall ply while I used an allen wrench to pull the blind nuts into the back of the fire wall.
pic 7/8:
Cowl dry fitted onto the fire wall.
The round FG mounting plate for the cowl is suppose to have the smooth side up but I reversed it to move the cowl an extra 1/4" forward. This makes the cowl have very little overlap on the firewall but it gives me extra room for the muffler.
This muffler isn't the best fit for this narrow depth cowl but there's not a lot of inexpensive options available.
It also appears that there's no 2-3 degree offset built into the firewall so I'll have to add a few washers to one side of the 3/8" mounting plate to get the engine offset to negate the left torque.
------------------
Tail feathers (cont)
pic 9:
I used thick CA to re-attach that 'cut out' part of the fuse that we previously cut off to get the stab into the fuse.
I also masked off the fuse and stab to control where the 'bondo' will be applied in the next step.
pic 10/11:
Used Evercoat, two part easysand to make an easy transition from the fuse to the stab on the top and bottom of the stab.
01-22-2008, 05:22 PM
#67
RE: YELLOW AT-6 TEXAN BUILD THREAD
Fuel tanks.
pic 1:
A 32 and 20 oz tank will be used.
32 for the fuel and 20 for the smoke.
I used a sullivan 32 tank because it was 1/4" narrower and allowed the dubro 20 oz tank to sit flush on the tank tray.
I turned the smoke tank on it's side: I'd never do this with a fuel tank but it should be OK for the smoke as long as I get the overflow tube at the top (side) of the tank.
pic 2:
Some large triangular shaped balsa was used to hold the front of the tank tray in place.
I put a small bevel on the edge of the triangular shaped balsa as well as the LE of the tank tray to help guide them into each other.
pic 3:
The tank tray dry fitted.
---------------
tail feathers:
pic 4:
There's a pre-indented area on the FG fuse that I cut and filed two slots for the pull/pull wires to exit the fuse when attached to the rudder.
pic 1:
A 32 and 20 oz tank will be used.
32 for the fuel and 20 for the smoke.
I used a sullivan 32 tank because it was 1/4" narrower and allowed the dubro 20 oz tank to sit flush on the tank tray.
I turned the smoke tank on it's side: I'd never do this with a fuel tank but it should be OK for the smoke as long as I get the overflow tube at the top (side) of the tank.
pic 2:
Some large triangular shaped balsa was used to hold the front of the tank tray in place.
I put a small bevel on the edge of the triangular shaped balsa as well as the LE of the tank tray to help guide them into each other.
pic 3:
The tank tray dry fitted.
---------------
tail feathers:
pic 4:
There's a pre-indented area on the FG fuse that I cut and filed two slots for the pull/pull wires to exit the fuse when attached to the rudder.
01-23-2008, 01:32 PM
#68
RE: YELLOW AT-6 TEXAN BUILD THREAD
Servo trays
pic 1:
I connected some dubro 4-40 steel threaded rod ends (#302) to the elevator control horns (3rd hole out), put the control horns into the back of the stab and then laid some carbon fiber control rods from the elevator control horns to the servo tray to insure there's no interferance with any formers and to see how everything looks.
pic 2:
I used dubro 4-40 swivel ball links (#861) to connect the Sullivan Gold-n-rod (#517) 4-40 semi flexible control rods to the engine choke and throttle. I'm using the heavy duty 4-40 rod to insure that there is no flexing of the rod.
I took the choke butterfly out so I could rotate the choke arm 90 degrees so I can get the movement towards the servo in the fuse instead of the original movement towards the engine head (which would be the desired position to have the choke manually controlled by the side of the cowl).
There are two offset pins sticking out in the throat of the carburetor which prevented the butterfly from moving completely open.
I put small notches in the brass butterfly to bypass the two pins.
Anyone with any knowledge on carbs: let me know if I hosed up the ability to completely choke off the engine with the addition of extra air that will now pass into the carb chamber.
There is a half circle cut out on these butterflies so air is never completely shut off: I'm hoping this additional 'air holes' won't stop choking the engine.
I modified the brass butterfly since it's a lot easier to buy and insert a new piece of brass than grind away pins in the carb chamber (plus that may alter the flow of air when entering the chamber).
I want a servo controlled choke for safety in the air in case the throttle servo goes south or a linkage fail: this allows me to shut the engine off in flight.
The carb on this 3W-75 has what appears to be two fuel line inlets. There is one on the diaphram side but there is also an inlet on the opposite side of the carb (which can be seen on the right in this picture: made out of brass). I'll have to call Bobby at Cactus since I don't have the manual on this particular engine.
Guess, I can also ask him about my butterfly modification.
I checked out the carb on my DA 50 and it also has those pins in the carb throat.
The 3W-75 has a perfectly round butterfly which the DA-50 does not.
Modifying the butterfly isn't something that I'd recommend.
After looking at the carb on the 3W, it may have been possible to reverse the shaft that holds the butterfly and get the same results without modifying the butterfly.
pic 3:
The choke and throttle control rods come into the fuse along the side so I'm thinking that I'll make some small servo trays and epoxied them to the side of the fuse.
pic 4:
The servo tray for the tail feathers is suppose to above the TE of the wing.
The CG is 13" in front of the wing's TE (NOT LE).
Using 1/4" thick ply and three servos makes the total package pretty heavy so I'm thinking about putting the tray just forward of the CG (as in the picture).
There's lot's of easy access space just behind the firewall so I'm thinking about making trays for batteries, smoke unit and putting everything up front to help on the nose weight that's going to be needed.
pic 1:
I connected some dubro 4-40 steel threaded rod ends (#302) to the elevator control horns (3rd hole out), put the control horns into the back of the stab and then laid some carbon fiber control rods from the elevator control horns to the servo tray to insure there's no interferance with any formers and to see how everything looks.
pic 2:
I used dubro 4-40 swivel ball links (#861) to connect the Sullivan Gold-n-rod (#517) 4-40 semi flexible control rods to the engine choke and throttle. I'm using the heavy duty 4-40 rod to insure that there is no flexing of the rod.
I took the choke butterfly out so I could rotate the choke arm 90 degrees so I can get the movement towards the servo in the fuse instead of the original movement towards the engine head (which would be the desired position to have the choke manually controlled by the side of the cowl).
There are two offset pins sticking out in the throat of the carburetor which prevented the butterfly from moving completely open.
I put small notches in the brass butterfly to bypass the two pins.
Anyone with any knowledge on carbs: let me know if I hosed up the ability to completely choke off the engine with the addition of extra air that will now pass into the carb chamber.
There is a half circle cut out on these butterflies so air is never completely shut off: I'm hoping this additional 'air holes' won't stop choking the engine.
I modified the brass butterfly since it's a lot easier to buy and insert a new piece of brass than grind away pins in the carb chamber (plus that may alter the flow of air when entering the chamber).
I want a servo controlled choke for safety in the air in case the throttle servo goes south or a linkage fail: this allows me to shut the engine off in flight.
The carb on this 3W-75 has what appears to be two fuel line inlets. There is one on the diaphram side but there is also an inlet on the opposite side of the carb (which can be seen on the right in this picture: made out of brass). I'll have to call Bobby at Cactus since I don't have the manual on this particular engine.
Guess, I can also ask him about my butterfly modification.
I checked out the carb on my DA 50 and it also has those pins in the carb throat.
The 3W-75 has a perfectly round butterfly which the DA-50 does not.
Modifying the butterfly isn't something that I'd recommend.
After looking at the carb on the 3W, it may have been possible to reverse the shaft that holds the butterfly and get the same results without modifying the butterfly.
pic 3:
The choke and throttle control rods come into the fuse along the side so I'm thinking that I'll make some small servo trays and epoxied them to the side of the fuse.
pic 4:
The servo tray for the tail feathers is suppose to above the TE of the wing.
The CG is 13" in front of the wing's TE (NOT LE).
Using 1/4" thick ply and three servos makes the total package pretty heavy so I'm thinking about putting the tray just forward of the CG (as in the picture).
There's lot's of easy access space just behind the firewall so I'm thinking about making trays for batteries, smoke unit and putting everything up front to help on the nose weight that's going to be needed.
01-23-2008, 04:26 PM
#69
RE: YELLOW AT-6 TEXAN BUILD THREAD
3W-75 carb:
I just talked to Bobby at Cactus and he said the brass inlet is to have some fuel line connected to it and then run into the firewall and be allowed to pull air from inside the fuse where there's no turbulance.
The second question was on my butchering the butterfly: he said that the mod is OK.
He gave an easier remedy to just screw and JB weld a 90 degree piece of metal to the existing arm on the choke rod: so simple, I missed it!
I just talked to Bobby at Cactus and he said the brass inlet is to have some fuel line connected to it and then run into the firewall and be allowed to pull air from inside the fuse where there's no turbulance.
The second question was on my butchering the butterfly: he said that the mod is OK.
He gave an easier remedy to just screw and JB weld a 90 degree piece of metal to the existing arm on the choke rod: so simple, I missed it!
01-23-2008, 10:36 PM
#70
RE: YELLOW AT-6 TEXAN BUILD THREAD
Servo trays (cont)
pic 1:
I cut some trays that are presently dry fitted behind the firewall and second former.
I want to sleep on the locations along with the tail feather servo tray before final installation but, presently, the front tray will be for batteries and the second tray back will be for the receiver/smoke unit.
I drilled a bunch of random small holes in them in case I need to put some hooks/screws into them in the future as trying to do this later will be difficult (not to mention a good possibility of having the drill go through the top of the fuse).
pic 2/3/4:
I made servo trays and side supports for the choke and throttle servos.
These two servos had to be along the fuse side dictated by the carb location on the engine.
I moved the choke servo tray back twice.
First, I realized it would block access to the tank tray, then it would block attaching the tail feather tray.
This is also why the lower throttle servo tray is farther back than the choke servo tray: I need room to be able to secure the servos to the trays.
All trays need to be located for ease of installation and for any future maintenance.
The CG location has been indicated on the fuse wing fillet.
The choke/throttle servo trays are just behing the CG whereas the tail feather tray is just forward of the CG.
pic 1:
I cut some trays that are presently dry fitted behind the firewall and second former.
I want to sleep on the locations along with the tail feather servo tray before final installation but, presently, the front tray will be for batteries and the second tray back will be for the receiver/smoke unit.
I drilled a bunch of random small holes in them in case I need to put some hooks/screws into them in the future as trying to do this later will be difficult (not to mention a good possibility of having the drill go through the top of the fuse).
pic 2/3/4:
I made servo trays and side supports for the choke and throttle servos.
These two servos had to be along the fuse side dictated by the carb location on the engine.
I moved the choke servo tray back twice.
First, I realized it would block access to the tank tray, then it would block attaching the tail feather tray.
This is also why the lower throttle servo tray is farther back than the choke servo tray: I need room to be able to secure the servos to the trays.
All trays need to be located for ease of installation and for any future maintenance.
The CG location has been indicated on the fuse wing fillet.
The choke/throttle servo trays are just behing the CG whereas the tail feather tray is just forward of the CG.
01-24-2008, 12:38 PM
#71
RE: YELLOW AT-6 TEXAN BUILD THREAD
Servos & trays (cont)
pic 1:
As I install each servo, I like to set them up so this led to 'breaking out' my new JR X9303 2.4 transmiter and seeing how it works.
This differs from my X8103 transmitter in that the LCD is at the bottom.
Just to the right is a 'scroll' lever. Just roll it to the desired topic and push on it: quick and easy movement with only your thumb.
pic 2:
A hefty 1500 ma battery is standard.
Should be able to fly all day on one transmitter.
pic 3:
Similar to the old X8103, to get to the menu screen, hold the 'ENT' button (top one of 4 buttons left of the LCD) down and turn on the transmitter.
Inputing a model name is easy once that screen is selected: just a repeat select and push of the scroll lever.
I was interested in where all the aux levers are to set up the choke servo.
Aux 1 = flaps (usual) (toggle) located on the left front.
Aux 2 = located on the right/front (toggle)
Aux 3 = located on the right side (lever). A nice lever that is easily moved with your index finger.
(there's also a lever on the left side for any desired programming)
Aux 4 = located on the right/top (toggle).
I'll be using Aux 4 for the choke.
pic 4:
Each receiver must be 'binded' to the transmitter.
A 'binding' plug (orange label on it) must be inserted into the charging jack.
After turning on the battery switch, three lights (LED's) start blinking: two in the receiver and one in the remote receiver.
pic 5:
You next hold the button in (and hold it) on the back of the transmitter and turn on the transmitter.
pic 6:
After a few seconds, the 'binding' is complete indicated by the three LED's now staying on without blinking.
You can then release the botton on the back of the transmitter and the binding plug is then removed.
pic 7:
Here's the smoke pump/receiver tray.
I epoxied some notched ply onto the tray to hold the receiver.
Using that Zap-a-dap glue works great: put some glue on one surface, push them together, remove them, wait a minute or two and then put them back together again and you can start using the parts immediately. Works like contact cement.
pic 8:
Here's the receiver mounted on the tray.
There are two small antenna's that are suppose to be 90 degrees to each other, so I used some industrial gray foam, cut a shallow recess in it and put the receiver in it. Wrapping the receiver in the usual foam would probably bend the two small antennas (or is that antenni!).
The two antennas can be seen: one at the top/left and the other top/right on the main receiver.
A couple of rubber bands should hold it in place.
The remote receiver is suppose to be 6" away.
I plan on getting another remote and a 24" extension and put that one back into the middle of the fuse.
The main receiver allows up to two remotes to be added.
Besides the usual 9 ports, the 9 channel receiver also has two ports for double batteries (a good safety factor).
pic 1:
As I install each servo, I like to set them up so this led to 'breaking out' my new JR X9303 2.4 transmiter and seeing how it works.
This differs from my X8103 transmitter in that the LCD is at the bottom.
Just to the right is a 'scroll' lever. Just roll it to the desired topic and push on it: quick and easy movement with only your thumb.
pic 2:
A hefty 1500 ma battery is standard.
Should be able to fly all day on one transmitter.
pic 3:
Similar to the old X8103, to get to the menu screen, hold the 'ENT' button (top one of 4 buttons left of the LCD) down and turn on the transmitter.
Inputing a model name is easy once that screen is selected: just a repeat select and push of the scroll lever.
I was interested in where all the aux levers are to set up the choke servo.
Aux 1 = flaps (usual) (toggle) located on the left front.
Aux 2 = located on the right/front (toggle)
Aux 3 = located on the right side (lever). A nice lever that is easily moved with your index finger.
(there's also a lever on the left side for any desired programming)
Aux 4 = located on the right/top (toggle).
I'll be using Aux 4 for the choke.
pic 4:
Each receiver must be 'binded' to the transmitter.
A 'binding' plug (orange label on it) must be inserted into the charging jack.
After turning on the battery switch, three lights (LED's) start blinking: two in the receiver and one in the remote receiver.
pic 5:
You next hold the button in (and hold it) on the back of the transmitter and turn on the transmitter.
pic 6:
After a few seconds, the 'binding' is complete indicated by the three LED's now staying on without blinking.
You can then release the botton on the back of the transmitter and the binding plug is then removed.
pic 7:
Here's the smoke pump/receiver tray.
I epoxied some notched ply onto the tray to hold the receiver.
Using that Zap-a-dap glue works great: put some glue on one surface, push them together, remove them, wait a minute or two and then put them back together again and you can start using the parts immediately. Works like contact cement.
pic 8:
Here's the receiver mounted on the tray.
There are two small antenna's that are suppose to be 90 degrees to each other, so I used some industrial gray foam, cut a shallow recess in it and put the receiver in it. Wrapping the receiver in the usual foam would probably bend the two small antennas (or is that antenni!).
The two antennas can be seen: one at the top/left and the other top/right on the main receiver.
A couple of rubber bands should hold it in place.
The remote receiver is suppose to be 6" away.
I plan on getting another remote and a 24" extension and put that one back into the middle of the fuse.
The main receiver allows up to two remotes to be added.
Besides the usual 9 ports, the 9 channel receiver also has two ports for double batteries (a good safety factor).
01-24-2008, 05:40 PM
#72
RE: YELLOW AT-6 TEXAN BUILD THREAD
Antenna
pic 1:
I figure I better get the antenna (fake one) mounted before the inside of the fuse gets too crowded.
I used hardwood, the two large brown pieces are 1 1/16" high and 2" wide and 3/8" deep.
The white pieces are 1/8" thick: one long one that's stuck up the hollow antenna and four short pieces for spacers.
I figured it's easier to get a rectangular hole by gluing up pieces of wood versus trying to drill a square hole (all out of square drill bits!).
Using a shaft smaller than the antenna also allows a nice flush fit to the fuse, which would be difficult to get by inserting the entire antenna into the fuse. Also, any future breakage will be the replacement of the shaft versus a damaged antenna.
pic 2:
First, I Zap-a-daped the four small pieces to one side using the antenna shaft as a spacer.
pic 3:
Other side Zap-a-daped on to complete the support block.
I had to sand a taper to one end of about an 1/8" to allow for the slant of the fuse in order to get the antenna to be vertical.
pic 4/5:
Finished product.
pic 6:
The antenna slides out for transport.
pic 7:
The inside view of the fuse of the support block.
The Zap-a-dap works great for applications like this: when used like a contact cement, the parts are immediately firmly in place but small adjustments can be made to get the antenna vertical. This would be more of a hastle using an epoxy.
pic 8:
The receiver tray covers one end of the support block (the reason why I made the block 1 1/16" high!).
--------------
Servo trays (cont)
pic 9:
top view of the choke/throttle trays with servos mounted.
pic 1:
I figure I better get the antenna (fake one) mounted before the inside of the fuse gets too crowded.
I used hardwood, the two large brown pieces are 1 1/16" high and 2" wide and 3/8" deep.
The white pieces are 1/8" thick: one long one that's stuck up the hollow antenna and four short pieces for spacers.
I figured it's easier to get a rectangular hole by gluing up pieces of wood versus trying to drill a square hole (all out of square drill bits!).
Using a shaft smaller than the antenna also allows a nice flush fit to the fuse, which would be difficult to get by inserting the entire antenna into the fuse. Also, any future breakage will be the replacement of the shaft versus a damaged antenna.
pic 2:
First, I Zap-a-daped the four small pieces to one side using the antenna shaft as a spacer.
pic 3:
Other side Zap-a-daped on to complete the support block.
I had to sand a taper to one end of about an 1/8" to allow for the slant of the fuse in order to get the antenna to be vertical.
pic 4/5:
Finished product.
pic 6:
The antenna slides out for transport.
pic 7:
The inside view of the fuse of the support block.
The Zap-a-dap works great for applications like this: when used like a contact cement, the parts are immediately firmly in place but small adjustments can be made to get the antenna vertical. This would be more of a hastle using an epoxy.
pic 8:
The receiver tray covers one end of the support block (the reason why I made the block 1 1/16" high!).
--------------
Servo trays (cont)
pic 9:
top view of the choke/throttle trays with servos mounted.
01-25-2008, 12:49 AM
#73
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: columbia,
SC
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RE: YELLOW AT-6 TEXAN BUILD THREAD
Another question, The saito 450 radial will fit in the ziroli t6, I think the cowl has an 11 inch diameter, At a 100 ounces that may negate the added nose weight. What is the inside diameter of the Yellow? Thanks, Mark
01-25-2008, 11:03 AM
#75
RE: YELLOW AT-6 TEXAN BUILD THREAD
Reciever tray (cont)
pic 1:
Last night, I Zap-a-dap'ed the receiver tray in.
-----------------
Tanks.
pic 2:
Here's the fuel pickup line for the 32 oz Sullivan gas tank.
I put a piece of brass tubing in line with the tubing to prevent the proverbial 'clunk bending forward' incident.
I also tie wraped all connections.
I'm using a two line system on this gas tank.
Since the two white outlets at the top of the tank doesn't allow any fuel line to be added to put the 'fill' line to the bottom of the tank, I'm going to use a 'T' in the clunk to carb to fill the tank.
This is possible versus glow since the walbro carb has a pump and doesn't allow fuel to pass it when it's not operating.
If I use a three line system, I'd have to drain the gas tank only when the plane is on its back: which is no big deal since the wing has to be removed anyway when I'm 'done for the day'.
pic 3:
Here's the smoke tank 'set up' with the traditional three lines.
Again, plastic ties to hold everything together.
As mentioned before, the tank will be on its side to fit the tray.
To get that 'mess' into the tank, I twist the overflow line down to parallel the fill line and then twist the overflow line back up after getting everything into the tank. I have some small rounded sides needle nose pliers that I use to grip inside the brass tubing to twist it to prevent distorting the tubing. Not sure where I got the rounded sided pliers as they are very old (like me! ).
pic 4/5:
Tanks secured to the tray.
Some foam for vibration control and eight long ties to get everything together.
pic 6/7:
The tank tray slipped into the triangular mount on the back of the fire wall.
HMMM: Viewed from the bottom, the reciever tray looks 'even' when I zap-a-dap'ed it into the fuse (pic 1) but from picture 7, it's obviously a little crooked. No big deal, I don't think the electrons will notice (besides there's no way that receiver tray is ever going to be moved!).
pic 8:
To secure the tank tray and keep it from vibrating out of the front mount, a 'cross' member has been zap-a-dap'ed to the fuses wing fillet. I added an 1/8" thick piece of ply to each side to raise the 'cross' member so the screw heads won't hit the wing.
I'll be adding two screws through the 'cross' member to secure it to the back of the tank tray. I'm using some of that gray heavy duty foam as a vibration insulator.
I want to make the tank tray removable for future maintenance plus I need access to the reciever tray and batteries that will be mounted behind the fire wall.
The tail feathers servo tray is dry fitted to insure easy access to them when the tank tray is in place.
I usually like to put the tank over the CG so the CG doesn't change as the fuel is consumed but there's no room with the new location of the tail feathers servo tray.
Naturally, I'll do the CG balance in the 'dry' state, inverted and with wheels up.
She'll be nose heavy on take off but I don't think that'll be a problem.
pic 1:
Last night, I Zap-a-dap'ed the receiver tray in.
-----------------
Tanks.
pic 2:
Here's the fuel pickup line for the 32 oz Sullivan gas tank.
I put a piece of brass tubing in line with the tubing to prevent the proverbial 'clunk bending forward' incident.
I also tie wraped all connections.
I'm using a two line system on this gas tank.
Since the two white outlets at the top of the tank doesn't allow any fuel line to be added to put the 'fill' line to the bottom of the tank, I'm going to use a 'T' in the clunk to carb to fill the tank.
This is possible versus glow since the walbro carb has a pump and doesn't allow fuel to pass it when it's not operating.
If I use a three line system, I'd have to drain the gas tank only when the plane is on its back: which is no big deal since the wing has to be removed anyway when I'm 'done for the day'.
pic 3:
Here's the smoke tank 'set up' with the traditional three lines.
Again, plastic ties to hold everything together.
As mentioned before, the tank will be on its side to fit the tray.
To get that 'mess' into the tank, I twist the overflow line down to parallel the fill line and then twist the overflow line back up after getting everything into the tank. I have some small rounded sides needle nose pliers that I use to grip inside the brass tubing to twist it to prevent distorting the tubing. Not sure where I got the rounded sided pliers as they are very old (like me! ).
pic 4/5:
Tanks secured to the tray.
Some foam for vibration control and eight long ties to get everything together.
pic 6/7:
The tank tray slipped into the triangular mount on the back of the fire wall.
HMMM: Viewed from the bottom, the reciever tray looks 'even' when I zap-a-dap'ed it into the fuse (pic 1) but from picture 7, it's obviously a little crooked. No big deal, I don't think the electrons will notice (besides there's no way that receiver tray is ever going to be moved!).
pic 8:
To secure the tank tray and keep it from vibrating out of the front mount, a 'cross' member has been zap-a-dap'ed to the fuses wing fillet. I added an 1/8" thick piece of ply to each side to raise the 'cross' member so the screw heads won't hit the wing.
I'll be adding two screws through the 'cross' member to secure it to the back of the tank tray. I'm using some of that gray heavy duty foam as a vibration insulator.
I want to make the tank tray removable for future maintenance plus I need access to the reciever tray and batteries that will be mounted behind the fire wall.
The tail feathers servo tray is dry fitted to insure easy access to them when the tank tray is in place.
I usually like to put the tank over the CG so the CG doesn't change as the fuel is consumed but there's no room with the new location of the tail feathers servo tray.
Naturally, I'll do the CG balance in the 'dry' state, inverted and with wheels up.
She'll be nose heavy on take off but I don't think that'll be a problem.