77chickenhawk

yeah. just make a header or whatever and run it out the cowl flap eare like i did.. noone will even see it.. and besides fake exhaust look better

heli2883

My Feedback: (21)

how are you going to paint the plane? airbrush?

77chickenhawk

ill use my HVLP gun for the big stuff and my little airbrush for all the scale goodies

jeff naul

My Feedback: (16)

i ran a da-50 with the keleo, i have no numbers to give as a comparison but power was no problem. g-62's are so much less hassle, and go with a carb bend to keep it in the cowl. my 2 cents

Shaun Evans

Hi,

Where did you get your P-40?

heli2883

My Feedback: (21)

Yellowaircraft.com is where i got it.

heli2883

My Feedback: (21)

Do you have a mini HVLP gun? WHat PSI do you need for that gun? What HP compressor should i get for airbrushing and a paint gun?

77chickenhawk

Its a full size HVLP. but if needed I could cut the material down to spray like a peanut gun (or jamming gun)
the PSI really all depends on the paint, all paints spray at different viscosities. personally I like to spray paint at a thinner viscosity and apply more coats if needed. thinner paint doesnt cover all the detail i spent hours and hours doing,

i have a 5hp 50 gallon compressor i got at harbor fraight for 400 bucks some time ago. you dont really need one that big.. but i would go with somethoing with a 10 gallon tank. just so the compressor isnt working over time.

Lows has a great HVLP for around 30 bucks.. I own one and they spray just fine.. my airbruch is a paasche' double action. they are around 50 bucks.. for the buck, you cant go wrong

heli2883

My Feedback: (21)

I am going to get a 26 gallon Craftman compressor. I work for a automotive supply company so i can get a good mini hvlp gun for a good price.

Shaun Evans

Madness,

Did you get the sale price?

bosssman

My Feedback: (35)

What is the current sale price? Also, can you post prices for the other Yellow warbird kits at your website? I live in Riverside and could pick it up in person rather than shipping. If you like, you can email me with the prices at [email protected]. Thanks!

randy

Shaun Evans

Hi,

Currently, I'm offering 10% off all kits and 5% off all ARFs and accessories through the month of January. You have to order through me or if you prefer direct (Charles), you have to mention the magic word...."Shaun".... to get the discount. I drop-ship from MA, so no savings on shipping, but the 10% adds up. By the way, I'm building a new site complete with prices on all items.

warbird_1

My Feedback: (61)

i'll try to post some pictures of a scale cowel flap setup i had on my ziroli p-40 really cool !

masteromodels

My Feedback: (11)

Hey Warbird can you explain how they are operated either with a servo or air cylinder and show a photo. I 'am trying to figure how you have them all working together. You cannot tell in the photo's how the mechanisim works. I can see how you tied them all together but cannot not figure what and how is operating them.

thanks bob

warbird_1

My Feedback: (61)

master it's simple.... each flap has it's own control rod. i used some dubro ball links on the top side of the setup. i took a nylon belcrank and put a piece of 2-56 threaded rod thru it and a nut on each side of the belcrank to keep in tight and centered. i then slip the ball links on to the rod "two on each side of the belcrank and backed them up with 2-56 nyloc nuts. i ran the whole thing with a servo and used the servo speed control feature on my JR 9303 to set the speed of the flaps. i use body filler to surround the flap hinges and tailwheels door ones too . i do this so if i had to made a belly landing the flaps and or doors would shear away with no damage to anything. it may not look that good but it sure saves on torn glass work. WB_1

LQUAN

My Feedback: (17)

Hi Warbird_1,

What motor do you have in your p-40? I am putting a ZDZ80 Super in mine (less weight than G-62) and I am still looking for a proper muffler. I don't want to use the Keleo.

Does anyone know where I can go to have custom muffler like the one shown below? This setup is J&A Engineering. They don't make custom muffler; at they don't mention custom muffler on their website.

I am thinking of have a separate can and 1 large stack mounted onto the engine box. And have a header and coupler piped to the can. Muffler and can must be custom made. The header must be low profile to fit inside the cowl. I like to have the stack run out to the cowl opening. Like ChickenHawk's. Any idea?

BTW, is that a Solo prop you got on there?

77chickenhawk

ok all. been working on the cockpit (seat frame) this weekend. Used pc board to make all the brackets . cut them all out and sodered them , really turned out sweet.. the frame is made of thin wall brass. all sodered together sanded and then painted..

77chickenhawk

here are some pic's of the cool tin. still have to fab up the brackets but the fitting part is all but finished

77chickenhawk

I also finioshed makeing the machine guns for the wing.. still need to finish the blisters the barrels slip into.

LQUAN

My Feedback: (17)

Looking at the photos of the "cool tin" posted above, I am not sure what ChickenHawk is doing...Can't wait for more photos or explanations.

I spent December 08 and January 09 building the scale tail gear door opening/closing mechanism and the scale "full" cockpit for my Lt. Doc Miller. I brought my scale cockpit to the field and got "hats off" from everyone. I got almost every little details built that I could find in the book. I thought about posting some photos here, but ChickenHawk's cockpit put mine to shame. Oh well, at least I got my tail gear door to open scale - 180 degree instead of 90 degree like everyone else. No fishing line for closing or relying on the wheel for opening. Hence, no binding. What a headache it was for those gear doors. I ruined the gear door set that came with the plane and had to make new ones.

I lost my weekend flyer, Composite-ARF Extra 330L, in January. I had to take February off to build a replacement. I can't wait to get back to the P-40.

LQUAN

My Feedback: (17)

Charles,

I sent you a couple emails requesting for quote on a Yellow AT-6 Texan for my next project after the P-40. Is [email protected] still alive? How can I reach you. Thanks.

77chickenhawk

on the cool tin.. the air flow must enter threw the side and out the other side as per ZDZ instructions.. thats why.

Oh and thank you very much on the complements on the cockpit

I would like to see your tail gear doors...pleeeese?

77chickenhawk

Completed the scale Rudder cable control brackets that attach to the foot pedels

LDM

My Feedback: (15)

excellant , great work

LQUAN

My Feedback: (17)

Ok, since you said pleeeese.

First of all, all Y/A P-40 builders know that the prefabricated tail retract mounting platform is too low and can't clear the steering arm. I read through many forums and some folks had to remove the existing mounting platform and build new a one. I am not so good at using the heat gun to remove the existing one without damaging the fiberglass and too reluctant to build a complete new one that inherit the same existing problems of getting the gear doors to open scale. So I decided to build something better. Since I am powering this beast with a ZDZ80 Super up front, I will need some tail weights even with the servo tray situated behind the cockpit instead of in front per instructions. So why not add a dedicated air cylinder to operate the gear doors? Of course I will have to have a second air valve, too, but it's no big deal - both air valves can be operated by the same servo. Just position the air valves opposite of each other and the servo in between.

Pic1 - Top side of retract mounting platform. The 1" travel air cylinder is Robart's. Since I have no room to mount the air cylinder on the same vertical travelling path as the gear door opening/closing path, I opted to position the cylinder 80 degree from vertical. Note the four blind nuts for the retract - never use wood screws. The plate is 1/8" lightply. Since the retract must be moved up vertically for the steering arm to clear the fuse, I added two strips of 1/8" lightply on the bottom side of the platform to give the retract a rise of 1/4". Those strips can been seen best on this photo.

Pic2 - Side view. Since changing the position of the air cylinder also means adding a 1/2" perpendicular spacer onto the swivel plate. The clevis on the end of the spacer is from Robart's 4-40 control horn set. The spacer can be obtained from Radio Shack - plastic or aluminum. The clevis is JB welded to the spacer.

Pic3 - Top view of the retract mounting platform. The two ball links for the gear door push rods are Great Planes 2-56. The ball link on the air cylinder push rod is Dubro 2-56. Since I have some paint left from building the cockpit in parallel with this tail gear door, I painted part of the retract plate. The entire wheel well area will be painted with the same color later anyway. The hinge connecting the swivel plate to the retract plate is Nelson's 1/2" piano hinge. I used the same hinge size throughout the gear doors on this aircraft.

Pic4 - Bottom side of the retract mounting platform. Note, I did not paint the two riser strips. This side of the strips will be glued to the TOP SIDE of the existing retract plate. TOP SIDE means top of the aircraft when it is right side up. I glassed the air cylinder supporting platform to prevent flexing on the thin plywood.

Pic5 - Gear retracted. Doors closed.

Pic6 - Doors open half way just before gear is lowered. Notice the clearance between the swivel plate and the wheel - it is just a hair away. This photo will help you determine the length of the swivel plate. I am using 2 Robart adjustble air valves - no UPC sequence air valve required. I will need to adjust the speed doors open to maximum. Wheel lowering speed to slow. Wheel retracting speed to maximum. And doors speed closing to slow. This timing will assure clearance for all moving parts at all time.

Pic7 - Gear down. Doors open. Note the hook on the swivel plate and the extra hex bold on the retract. I will have a very weak spring that I found in some old floppy drive to connect between these 2 points. The spring is to help stabilize the gear doors from engine vibration when open. At the end of the air cylinder travel, there is no holding force to prevent the doors from flapping a little bit.

Pic8 - Gear doors control horns are dubbed off from Robart Medium control horn. They must be positioned at an angle to be inlined with the push rods travelling paths. You want the horns to portrude over the opening just enough to clear the push rods from hitting the fuse. If portruded any further you will move pass the optimum travelling point; and the doors will begin to open back when the gear door air cylinder is fully retracted. I learned this the hard way and had to make new gear doors. My my gear doors fit better than the old ones anyway.

Pic9 - Modifications to the old retract platform to accomodate the new.

Pic10 - My new gear doors. I had to move one of the hinge nut/bold set forward to clear the steering arm. Note I had to make special hinge to move the nut/bolt forward. I flipped the steering from right side to the left side; for some reasons I have more clearance on the left side. I dumped the wheel centering spring when flipping the arm. That spring does not do squat when connecting to a servo.

Pic11 - Note how close the push rod is to the fuse when doors are open. They need to be this way for optimum travel.

Pic12 - ...And I have scale opening gear doors; 180 degree.