The lead sled- TF P-47 Help!!
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The lead sled- TF P-47 Help!!
Ok I admit that I tend to build alittle on the heavy side but my just finished P-47 1/7 scale tips the scales at 13 lbs ! It has CJ retracts, full cockpit/pilot, glassed painted weathered, all air/turbo/oil cooler doors etc etc. Im running a OS120 in it 16/8 prop.
The plans outline a weight of 9-11 lbs and I needed 1.2 lbs lead in the nose to balance the brick of a tail
Help me out here guys, what have the other TF P-47 that have been built weighted? Im concerned that my take-off roll will need to be twice the way to the moon, and will land at jet speeds,should I be in a twit over this weight? Thanks for the input.
Kirk RC
The plans outline a weight of 9-11 lbs and I needed 1.2 lbs lead in the nose to balance the brick of a tail
Help me out here guys, what have the other TF P-47 that have been built weighted? Im concerned that my take-off roll will need to be twice the way to the moon, and will land at jet speeds,should I be in a twit over this weight? Thanks for the input.
Kirk RC
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The lead sled- TF P-47 Help!!
never glass 1/7 scale planes! You will be ok the selig airfoil will get you out of trouble just let the speed build up before you pull her off. Mine has a saito 90 with monokote and she flies great
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The lead sled- TF P-47 Help!!
Mine weighed 12 pounds including 1.5 pounds of nose weight. It flew like a trainer. With flaps, it has a pretty slow landing speed. I used the OS 120 Surpass III pumped engine and it flew scale at half throttle and was pretty fast at full throttle. Mine was glassed and used Flite Metal covering. Your's should fly great. Your landing speed may be a little faster than a lighter plane.
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The lead sled- TF P-47 Help!!
Harman:
I have glassed planes that weigh the same as monokote covered planes. If glassing is done correctly and a light weight cloth is used, there is no weight gain. The key is to scrape off all excess resin. Glassing gives you the ablilty to apply more scale detail than a monokote covered plane.
I have glassed planes that weigh the same as monokote covered planes. If glassing is done correctly and a light weight cloth is used, there is no weight gain. The key is to scrape off all excess resin. Glassing gives you the ablilty to apply more scale detail than a monokote covered plane.
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The lead sled- TF P-47 Help!!
I have 2 TF p-47s, one in Monokote, and one is glassed. Both planes are loaded with all the bells and whistles, and there aint a darn bit of difference in the way they fly! I think the secret to a light glassing job, is scraping all the epoxy off you can. I have built over 35 planes, and I have never weighed any of them. I don't really care how much they weigh! Kirk RC..go fly your jug, and have fun, and don't worry about the weight. Oh... never let anyone tell you not to glass a 1/7 plane. That's CRAP!!! A buddy of mine builds and glasses 1/12 scale war birds, and they fly great! Good luck, and post a pic of the thing, I wana see it!
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Heavy TF P-47
This thread makes me feel a lot better about the weight of my TF P-47.
It is also 13 pounds with a pound of lead in the nose it has a Supertigre 75, Rhom Air retracts, Flaps, onboard glow driver and is glassed and painted with Perfect paint. (been thinking of putting a YS110 in it in place of the 75) it might just make it a little more powerful...
Or is the 75 really enough to fly this thing????
Has not been flown as of yet waiting for the good weather to get really good.
It is also 13 pounds with a pound of lead in the nose it has a Supertigre 75, Rhom Air retracts, Flaps, onboard glow driver and is glassed and painted with Perfect paint. (been thinking of putting a YS110 in it in place of the 75) it might just make it a little more powerful...
Or is the 75 really enough to fly this thing????
Has not been flown as of yet waiting for the good weather to get really good.
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The lead sled- TF P-47 Help!!
Steve,
I have used ST 90 in two of my TF war Birds a P-40 & P-51. Both when I lived in Thailand and we flew at sea level +50 ( Bangkok). The 51 flew fine but dont horse it around and keep up the approach speed, the P-40 almost fell out of the sky and would need 2-4 beers just to regain my wits. The 75 @ 13 lbs will require a lot of roll out on take off and landing. If your field is big, say 350-500 ft I would feel OK, a better pilot would need less I have found that the 120 four strokes are a perfect fit. I feel TF tends to under rate engine size as a marketing/ financial ploy so I go big. Kirk RC
I have used ST 90 in two of my TF war Birds a P-40 & P-51. Both when I lived in Thailand and we flew at sea level +50 ( Bangkok). The 51 flew fine but dont horse it around and keep up the approach speed, the P-40 almost fell out of the sky and would need 2-4 beers just to regain my wits. The 75 @ 13 lbs will require a lot of roll out on take off and landing. If your field is big, say 350-500 ft I would feel OK, a better pilot would need less I have found that the 120 four strokes are a perfect fit. I feel TF tends to under rate engine size as a marketing/ financial ploy so I go big. Kirk RC
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The lead sled- TF P-47 Help!!
Green river,
Thx for the support. I have glassed half of my 1/7 War Birds and do an OK job but they always run heavyer vs film, most likely my skill set vs material. The 47 is now 100% ready to go and all systems check out fine. Next good day and its balls to the wall. Will post Pics. Thx Kirk RC
Thx for the support. I have glassed half of my 1/7 War Birds and do an OK job but they always run heavyer vs film, most likely my skill set vs material. The 47 is now 100% ready to go and all systems check out fine. Next good day and its balls to the wall. Will post Pics. Thx Kirk RC
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The lead sled- TF P-47 Help!!
Originally posted by green river rc
Oh... never let anyone tell you not to glass a 1/7 plane. That's CRAP!!! A buddy of mine builds and glasses 1/12 scale war birds, and they fly great! Good luck, and post a pic of the thing, I wana see it!
Oh... never let anyone tell you not to glass a 1/7 plane. That's CRAP!!! A buddy of mine builds and glasses 1/12 scale war birds, and they fly great! Good luck, and post a pic of the thing, I wana see it!
I had the TF Spit glassed w/robarts and I built it pretty heavy too (it weighed around 12 1/2 - 13lbs too if I remember correctly) I powered it with a OS 120 Surpass II... was an awesome flying airplane till half the horizonal stab broke off due to a rock hitting it on landing (never noticed it
Anyrate have fun with your Jug!!! the Top Flite kits fly nice, no matter how much they weigh... well to a certain extent
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Fiberglassed .40 GP P-51
I glassed and painted, installed panel lines and rivets, and installed retracts on my Great Planes .40 size P-51. The plane came in at 8 pounds and flies great with a YS .45. It looks pretty good too. Picture attached.
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The lead sled- TF P-47 Help!!
If you glass with poly u and use .5 oz cloth you would be ok I have seen many 1/7 scale birds overdone and excess resin all over the place. The lighter the better. Try glassing a tf p-40 with 1 oz glass and epoxy it will be a brick. The p-47 can handle the weight. Must be careful!
I got into it with a scale purist the other day when he laughed at my 2 bladed prop on my jug. I asked him where he got the exact scale radial and actual wwII fuel! People need to lighten up its only a hobby! Some of these experts wont even fly in a 1:1 172 cause they are afraid to actually fly!
Just my two cents
Tim
I got into it with a scale purist the other day when he laughed at my 2 bladed prop on my jug. I asked him where he got the exact scale radial and actual wwII fuel! People need to lighten up its only a hobby! Some of these experts wont even fly in a 1:1 172 cause they are afraid to actually fly!
Just my two cents
Tim
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Paint on P-51
The silver color is PPG paint product, OMNI 1979 Corvette Silver, Code 13. It is an OMNI basecoat/clearcoat purchased at PPG. The panel lines were drawn on using a Sharpie pen on top of the Silver base coat and then applying the Clearcoat over the model after all panel lines, decals, and rivets are applied.
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The lead sled- TF P-47 Help!!
Today the lead sled flew!!! It is straight as an arrow on take-off but demands a much lighter touch on the sticks than my TF P-51, due to the weight, it bleeds off energy fast in vertical maneuvers. The boys at the field would pick it up and couldnt believe it. I wonder if my scale is off? My scanner is acting up so pics are alittle slow in coming. Landings full flap ,alot faster approach speed but with reduced throttle it seattles in pretty good. I would love to have one that is 3-4 lds less, they must be a piece of cake. The good news is that it flys alot more scale!!
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Lead Sled
Kirk
It sounds like you enjoyed the flight, and that your happy with the plane.
were you flying on grass? both my fields are grass and I'm going to yank the Supertiger 75 and put that new YS 110 in it for the extra power.
Good luck with it.
It sounds like you enjoyed the flight, and that your happy with the plane.
were you flying on grass? both my fields are grass and I'm going to yank the Supertiger 75 and put that new YS 110 in it for the extra power.
Good luck with it.
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Steve,
Our field is paved and 500 ft long, I used about a third first flight but I almost stalled! Second flight trim down for take off and rolled the entire runway and rotated for shallow climb like the real thing. We fly at 5000 feet elev. so your YS 110 should be good at your Alt. plus YS are stronger than OS 120 that I fly. Good luck with yours!
Regards,
Kirk RC
Our field is paved and 500 ft long, I used about a third first flight but I almost stalled! Second flight trim down for take off and rolled the entire runway and rotated for shallow climb like the real thing. We fly at 5000 feet elev. so your YS 110 should be good at your Alt. plus YS are stronger than OS 120 that I fly. Good luck with yours!
Regards,
Kirk RC
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The lead sled- TF P-47 Help!!
Heavy but nice! Lead sled and friends pics now in photo gallery/aircraft. My P-47 and Anna Nicole Smith are very much alike, they both would be great with less pounds and not so round!!
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The lead sled- TF P-47 Help!!
The plane is covered in Coverrite sealed with spray on automotive primer (Heavy) and than PPG auto silver with alittle gray mixed in .The markings are the decals that came with the kit except the rondel on the fuse thats painted on (by an artist friend). The yellow and drab green is lustercoat. Entire model clearcoated with lustercoat.
Kirk RC
Kirk RC
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Heavy Jug
Kirk
Now I know why it is heavy. I did a model once by covering the entire model with coverite. I did the same thing as you, I then primed with automotive primer to cover the seams and then lightly sanded. The plane looked great, but it was as heavy as a brick.
I have found that glassing with the light weight (.6oz. glass)cloth gives me a harder finish which is more durable and there is no chance of the coveritte sagging with age, as it sometimes does when placed in the sun. It also gives me a lighter finish than with coveritte. I have used the Dan Parsons glass with the West 105 finishing resin with good success. Dan's glass is by far the best I 've ever used and he is absolutely correct when he says that overlapped seams disappear (unlike coverite). With coverite, you've got to build up the primer to hide the seam.
I really think that using the lightweight fiberglass and finishing resin is about the strongest, most long lasting finish you can do on an airplane and it is just about as light as any except for an iron on film finish.
I'm glad is flies and the upside of all this is that it will make you a better pilot and besides the plane looks great.
Now I know why it is heavy. I did a model once by covering the entire model with coverite. I did the same thing as you, I then primed with automotive primer to cover the seams and then lightly sanded. The plane looked great, but it was as heavy as a brick.
I have found that glassing with the light weight (.6oz. glass)cloth gives me a harder finish which is more durable and there is no chance of the coveritte sagging with age, as it sometimes does when placed in the sun. It also gives me a lighter finish than with coveritte. I have used the Dan Parsons glass with the West 105 finishing resin with good success. Dan's glass is by far the best I 've ever used and he is absolutely correct when he says that overlapped seams disappear (unlike coverite). With coverite, you've got to build up the primer to hide the seam.
I really think that using the lightweight fiberglass and finishing resin is about the strongest, most long lasting finish you can do on an airplane and it is just about as light as any except for an iron on film finish.
I'm glad is flies and the upside of all this is that it will make you a better pilot and besides the plane looks great.
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P-47 led sled
Falconwings. A friend and fellow club member was punched in the nose by the commander of the P-47 you chose to duplicate lol. My friend was TDY to the Phillipians and was told that the gent in the "O" club was Glen Eagleston.. My friend thinking he was being played a prank on ..walked to the man ( who had his back to him and resembled someone he knew).. and poured a beer on his head.. Eagleston turn and punched my friend right in the nose!!.. and asked for an explaination.. which my friend told him about the suspected prank. The Next day he learned that Eagleston was his Unit commander!! lol. some kinda funny... BTW My friend was a P-47 instructor during wwII.. he has flown nearly everything in the USAF Inventory used before 1975 .. wow!!.. Regards BobH.