bucho

My Feedback: (6)

Can any body tell me where is the best CG ?????? I remember the one in the manual was not de very best, but don`t remember where is the best...I have a saito 125 on it, thanks

skillet92

Tiger I love this set up and have a blast with her in the air. I have quite a few OS engines and this one is a winner. I have not moved up on the prop yet because I want to get the feel for the Airplane before I increase the speed. That RPM that you are getting is great because I am thinking of this engine on a 60 sized 3der!!

Flight 21

okay guys I have screwed the pooch and need some advice. so is there any way to free up epoxy? I have mis-measured my stabilizer and glued it in place crooked with 30-minute epoxy. Does anybody know of anything that can break fee the epoxy so I can true it up and reinstall it?

yours truly,
dumba**

frets24

My Feedback: (15)

I have never heard of any type of chemical solvet for epoxy like unglue that can be used on CA type adhesives. In past experiences of a similar nature I've used the dremel to carve away any visible and accessable epoxy and then used a heated exacto knife to cut/melt through the rest. It doesn't have to be red hot so you shouldn't be burning the wood. If this is on the horz stab you may be able to also use a heated wire or a cable saw to pass between the fuse and the stab. I have used a hacksaw blade (just the blade unmounted) in the past as well. Tape the surface of the stab to protect it and ride the blade flat on the protected surface and it does minimal collateral damage.
If it's the verticle stab you'll probably wind up cutting the exposed part of the stab away from the stubs then drilling the sockets out. these can be recreated with dowel stock and will be as strong as or better than the hard balsa originals. Harder to explain than see so refer to pic below.

Good luck with it.

If anyone else has heard of an epoxy solvent I'd be glad to learn about it myself.

edited for pic addition

kochj

Heat will soften Epoxy most of the time....
I was able to take apart many things with a HEAT GUN/paint peeler...w/o so much as a scratch...

Only issue is that the Heat will screwup the covering....

ACETONE will usually soften it up// I know from experience, that it will work wonders on GOrrilla glue..

If it is a VERY tight fit and little epoxy between, I would use some ACETONE dripped in to it, and keep doing that untill
it softens abit.... Put some heat on and and see if you can move it....

THe other post give great advice as well..

Flight 21

Thanks for the suggestions guys. I am going to think about this and will post which way i go. I am also still contemplating leaving it in place, but thats hard for me to accept as I am particular about the structure of my builds. Thanks again...

Mikecam

Flight 21. I changed the CA hinges on my P51 elevator to robarts. To do that I needed to remove the joiner so that I could get the elevator halves apart to install the robarts. I put some acetone in a old cleaned out CA bottle and dripped it in every minute or two for about an half an hour. One slid out within 5 minutes but the other side was stubborn and required the full 30 minutes. I had glued it with 30 minute epoxy. Good luck

Flight 21

Thanks for the input. I will post my progress...

BAS

My Feedback: (28)

OK i have read allmost this entire thread and was wondering if Top Flite has improved the stock retract gear . I ordered the plane yesterday from Tower . I really dont want to have to installed a air sytem for the retracts , so can you guys tell me what the best way to go is on the retracts. Our club also has a 350 foot blacktop runway plus grass which is smooth to help with landings.

CorsairJock

My Feedback: (90)

I have become frustrated enough with the stock Top Flite retracts that I now recommend not using them. A set of Robart HD mechanicals are a very good, and in-expensive alternative. I recommend the 90 deg variety, but 85 degree ones are appropriate also.
Bolt on a pair of offset RoboStruts and it just doesn't get much better than that.

skillet92

Well guys I have the CJ's in mine with the large air tank and mine are great. I put a Sierra retract Air gauge and since I usually leave mine together to hang it from the ceiling in my shop I have seen mine leave the field with 60+ air pressure and when I take it back out the next week it has still had that in it. I have since started to drain the system after every trip to the field. As far as the retracts themselves, they have performed flawlessly and worked great. I swore after my problems with my CJ's for my corsair I would never use them again, but I guess the rotation of the corsair is just not easy to copy!! About the only thing that would be better would be some Lado's but I am not getting into that mess until the situation clears up.

BAS

My Feedback: (28)

CorsairJack can you tell me the part numbers of the robo struts and Robart retracts i would need then . Thanks for the reply and info . Also how much money are we looking at for those two items ??

CorsairJock

My Feedback: (90)

I don't remember all the part numbers, but details are posted in the early posts of this thread, as well as pictures.

BAS

My Feedback: (28)

Ok thanks

frets24

My Feedback: (15)

robart 608HD mech retracts


http://www.robart.com/retracts/5-10lbMech.aspx

robostruts in 3/8 and 7/16 diam

http://www.robart.com/RoboStruts/380_Series.aspx

http://www.robart.com/RoboStruts/440_Series.aspx

high quality copies of these struts are usually available at decent savings on the market board under airplanes/accesories/landing gear&tires

http://www.rcuniverse.com/market/category.cfm?catID=298

or do a member search for citation-I then at the bottom of the profile page see members current ads in the market activity section

http://www.rcuniverse.com/market/sea...emberID=475841

BAS

My Feedback: (28)

Thanks for all the info on the retracts ect. Its a big help i will check it out

Mikecam

I used the stock gear but did beef up the retract rails and I have close to 60 flights now. Not all my landings have been perfect and I bent the gear wire once. Took the retract out to straighten it and no problems after that. I was worried after reading about some of the failures on here but mine have worked even with more abuse then they should have received.

BAS

My Feedback: (28)

For any of you who have the CJ s have you experience any problems with them becoming loose after some time on them. A friend of mine said they are riveted and become loose after some flight time??? I see tower has them for $269.00

BAS

My Feedback: (28)

For any of you who have the Century Jet retracts have them become loose after some flight time on them? A friend of mine says that they are revited and dont hold up to well. I see Tower has them in stock for $269.00

skillet92

BAS I do not know if the CJ's for the Mustang will get loose with the rivets, but it does have them. Now I only have 12 flights on mine so it is still new and time will tell. I can say that my Corsair CJ's got terrible and were a constant headache. But they were more a problem with the aft rotation of the retract.

BAS

My Feedback: (28)

Ok thanks for the info . Havent decided which way i am going yet .

skillet92

Pssssss....... SIERRA!!!!

Have heard nothing but good things about them. Yes a little more expensive and for this plane will require Robart struts, but as nice as this plane is they are worth it. I got my CJ's for a kit that I wanted to build, but lost interest in when the ARF came out or I would have gone that route. And might just if they start to give me trouble!

Ron101

My Feedback: (22)

Wrong post sorry

RBean

I have three sets of CJs, all rotators. Yes they do get loose. They use rivets in the oleo sissors, I guess you call them. I replaced all the rivets with 3mm bolts and lock nuts and have not had any more problems with them getting loose. I did have to add larger springs to the rotators, but that is not a problem with the Mustang gear. I recently obtained a set of 700 series retracts from Spring Air and used them in a VQ Hurricane with Robart Struts. The retracts are Robo strut ready, don't have to use the wire. They have been great and I highly recommend them. Used wheel collars to slow down the retract speed. The spring airs are $117 and the struts about $85 for a pair. I use the CJ fill valve because I think it is better than the one from Spring Air. Total cost with the valve and collars about $210.

goedhartige

Hey you all stang lovers!

I'm thinking of weatering my mustang as in the picture I enclosed.
Do some of you guys have any experience with weathering on this type of shrinkage covering?
What sorts of paints are usable (no brands please, just types, I live in the Netherlands...) do I have to varnish for fuel proofing, etc. etc.

Please give me some info!