COMP ARF 110" F4U ARF WITH FOLDING WING ASSEMBLY
11-13-2013, 03:01 AM
#1353
Claudio,
I'm not familiar with this engine so I cannot comment on it. I know that the moki 250 is more than enough power for the F4U. I've heard that people have flown this plane with 120 size engines. Weight wise, I've seen this plane comes in anywhere from 50 to 68 pounds. A 99cc sounds a little too small to me though.
I'm not familiar with this engine so I cannot comment on it. I know that the moki 250 is more than enough power for the F4U. I've heard that people have flown this plane with 120 size engines. Weight wise, I've seen this plane comes in anywhere from 50 to 68 pounds. A 99cc sounds a little too small to me though.
11-13-2013, 03:09 AM
#1354
Member
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Firenze, ITALY
Posts: 83
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Thanks agsin
this are the specs
Specifications
Type: 4-stroke
Displacement: 6.0 cu in (99cc)
Bore: 0.93 in (23.7mm)
Stroke: 0.98 in (25.0mm)
Cylinders: 9
Total Weight: 7.7 lb (3.5 kg)
Crankshaft Threads: 10 x 1mm
Prop Range: 2-blade 26 x 10, 24 x 12
RPM Range: 1,300–6,500
Fuel: 0–10% nitro, 9% oil for break-in and normal running
Mounting Dimensions: Diameter 10.2 in (26 cm), length 7.9 in (20 cm)
Muffler Type: Straight pipe - collector ring available for separate purchase
HP: 6.0 (approximate)
Cylinder Type: Ringed
Experience Level: Intermediate
if you can compare the power with your Moki is welcome
thanks
claudio
this are the specs
Specifications
Type: 4-stroke
Displacement: 6.0 cu in (99cc)
Bore: 0.93 in (23.7mm)
Stroke: 0.98 in (25.0mm)
Cylinders: 9
Total Weight: 7.7 lb (3.5 kg)
Crankshaft Threads: 10 x 1mm
Prop Range: 2-blade 26 x 10, 24 x 12
RPM Range: 1,300–6,500
Fuel: 0–10% nitro, 9% oil for break-in and normal running
Mounting Dimensions: Diameter 10.2 in (26 cm), length 7.9 in (20 cm)
Muffler Type: Straight pipe - collector ring available for separate purchase
HP: 6.0 (approximate)
Cylinder Type: Ringed
Experience Level: Intermediate
if you can compare the power with your Moki is welcome
thanks
claudio
11-19-2013, 01:17 PM
#1359
PM for the winter:
Got the gear back from Darrell.
Darrell said the axle brass bushings were very worn and recommended I put some auto axle bearing grease on them (explains why the plane was hard to push; also didn't help on landings with that extra drag). I had some red axle grease that I put on the bearings and axles. He said a plane this heavy can put a lot of pressure on brass bushings.
Carb choke:
While the wing was off, I thought I'd check the engine carb.
I was having trouble with the engine not stopping after the choke servo was moved; found the servo arm maxed out by hitting the servo casing.
I also cleaned up the rockers with some carb cleaner and added oil to the rocker hole and each end of the push rods.
Gear hang up:
While talking to Darrell, he said the scissors could get out of position if the gear was lowered while the plane was upside down.
Sure enough, mine stuck while in a almost vertical position. The scissors drops next to the oleo and binds versus the scissors staying above the oleo. This is the same angle they were in when I pranged the gear and they folded. Then, as now, I had to bleed all the air out before I could reset the scissors.
Electric wing folding mechanism.
Sometimes the wires going to the motor gets pinched by the mechanism so I put some plastic auto wire protectors over them.
Winter storage:
Too big of a plane (plus no room with the others in the house) to store in the house so she gets cocooned with plastic and incandescent bulbs placed inside to keep her warm.
Last edited by samparfitt; 11-19-2013 at 01:27 PM.
11-25-2013, 06:55 AM
#1360
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: leeds, UNITED KINGDOM
Posts: 133
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
thanks, Scott.
Nothing worse than having your favorite plane damaged: it demands to be fixed, immediately.
I wasn't sure how this was going to turn out since the entire gear section was broken off. I'm happy with the results. Cost was pretty cheap: two tubes of hysol and I already had the little paint/primer needed for the repair. Three new prop blades were the biggest expense, $198 including shipping.
=========
Happiness is!
Cycled the gear and the moki 250 is doing 800/3700 rpm's.
Cycled the wings: works great but need to adjust the right triangular cover over the folding mechanism as the edge is catching on the outer wing when going in the up position.
Will take her out to the field for a taxi test.
Did you contact Wayne at Soloprops easily ?
I am wanting to place an order for some blades but have had no response from them.
I emailed them last week.
Thanks
Steve D
02-09-2014, 07:55 AM
#1362
Member
My Feedback: (5)
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Fort Worth,
TX
Posts: 99
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Well, after 3 years and 2 months, getting close to finishing this plane [ put the plane away for 2 1/2 years for other projects ]. A couple of questions.
A. Are the throws given per instructions ... do these seem to be adequate:
These throws seem pretty minimal.
Aileron: 20 mm up, and 15 mm down
Elevator 20 mm up and down
Rudder 70 mm
Flaps 35 Degrees
Give me feed back got to get a good answer.
B. On the balance of the plane. Are you balancing the plane upside-down or up-right ???
Thanks Bill
A. Are the throws given per instructions ... do these seem to be adequate:
These throws seem pretty minimal.
Aileron: 20 mm up, and 15 mm down
Elevator 20 mm up and down
Rudder 70 mm
Flaps 35 Degrees
Give me feed back got to get a good answer.
B. On the balance of the plane. Are you balancing the plane upside-down or up-right ???
Thanks Bill
Last edited by DDayWarbird; 02-09-2014 at 07:58 AM.
02-09-2014, 08:45 AM
#1363
Bill,
Mine is cocooned in plastic out in the shop for the winter so I can't check on moving surface throws.
20 mm is only about 3/4". I'm guessing that I've got about 1 1/4" on elevator (less on down) and probably the same on ailerons.
Rudder, I usually go max possible without hitting the elevator.
Expo, I usually use about 30% but have 50% on my ailerons.
You don't need a whole lot of surface movement to move this plane in a scale flight pattern.
I always do my CG upright with the gear up. Planes this size are too difficult to try inverted.
Mine is cocooned in plastic out in the shop for the winter so I can't check on moving surface throws.
20 mm is only about 3/4". I'm guessing that I've got about 1 1/4" on elevator (less on down) and probably the same on ailerons.
Rudder, I usually go max possible without hitting the elevator.
Expo, I usually use about 30% but have 50% on my ailerons.
You don't need a whole lot of surface movement to move this plane in a scale flight pattern.
I always do my CG upright with the gear up. Planes this size are too difficult to try inverted.
05-02-2014, 04:46 AM
#1364
Member
My Feedback: (5)
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Fort Worth,
TX
Posts: 99
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Here is the bird with some comments on the video, and a video of the plane and the engine running.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pf-N...ature=youtu.be
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pf-N...ature=youtu.be
05-03-2014, 10:03 PM
#1365
http://www.ramoser.de/home_e/variopr...rioprop_e.html
I just noticed this new 32i adjustable scale prop system from Varioprop. This one is designed to work on the Moki 250 among other engines. I own their smaller electric 3 & 4 blade 8 & 12 sets. They make high quality props so Im very excited to see this new hub system appear. I have a 3 blade Solo hub that I planned to use on my CARF Corsair/Moki 250 build but now Im thinking that will go on another plane.
I just noticed this new 32i adjustable scale prop system from Varioprop. This one is designed to work on the Moki 250 among other engines. I own their smaller electric 3 & 4 blade 8 & 12 sets. They make high quality props so Im very excited to see this new hub system appear. I have a 3 blade Solo hub that I planned to use on my CARF Corsair/Moki 250 build but now Im thinking that will go on another plane.
06-15-2014, 02:54 PM
#1368
PM and first flights of the season.
PM:
Had a bad receiver battery (short circuit) and replaced it.
First flights:
Went to Mac Hodges for warbirds over Georgia and put 5 flight on her.
She flew great and the down and lock electric folding wings worked every time.
The Tail servo went dead after one landing due to the servo wires getting severed by the tail gear. Fixed that and velcro'd the wires to the frame.
Had one landing with a large bounce so just, eased up the throttle and flew around for another landing. The rest of the landings, she just about greased all of them.
06-16-2014, 04:36 AM
#1372
Member
My Feedback: (5)
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Fort Worth,
TX
Posts: 99
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Sam, Thanks for those measurements. That is exactly what I was needing.
I just have to do 2 things to get her going. aileron and tail gear cylinder placement.
Next question: On the linkage of the aileron to the "throw rod" that goes to the servo ... on the throw / push / pull rod ... How did you link that rod to the aileron. ??
I used the clevis pins given with the kit, but there was just a tad too much slop in it. Maybe about 3/32 of an inch.
Next ... the tail wheel wooden installation for mounting, ... was done at the factory it is off just a hair. I have to go in, by hand and drill the hole about 1/4 further forward. But I have another idea that I will do and post on the thread. I looked thru your postings and you were able to get all set up appropriately before instillation. With the ARF it is already put in for you.
I just have to do 2 things to get her going. aileron and tail gear cylinder placement.
Next question: On the linkage of the aileron to the "throw rod" that goes to the servo ... on the throw / push / pull rod ... How did you link that rod to the aileron. ??
I used the clevis pins given with the kit, but there was just a tad too much slop in it. Maybe about 3/32 of an inch.
Next ... the tail wheel wooden installation for mounting, ... was done at the factory it is off just a hair. I have to go in, by hand and drill the hole about 1/4 further forward. But I have another idea that I will do and post on the thread. I looked thru your postings and you were able to get all set up appropriately before instillation. With the ARF it is already put in for you.
06-16-2014, 04:45 AM
#1373
Member
My Feedback: (5)
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Fort Worth,
TX
Posts: 99
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Oh, one of the problems, another prebuilt arf purchase is that .... the aileron hinges are mounted about 3 or 4 mm tooo far forward into the slot. This inhibits the aileron in their up and down travel. The up travel is more inhibited that the down travel. So I have to sand off some of the trailing edge of the wing or remount the hinges.
06-16-2014, 04:50 AM
#1374
Page 8 has my aileron work on mounting, etc and you'll see how I did mine.
Maybe they used metric clevises and standards might be tighter else you'll have to fill the hole and redrill or add a bearing (brass).
I can't see my linkage with the flap in the way but I may have used standard american parts as I stay away from metric as much as possible as most parts sold in the US are in standard sizes so any future replacements are easy to do.
You usually want more down that up travel anyway (even though my throws are more up than down) so it may not be a problem. Set the servo arm ,mechanically, to give you more down than up or use two channels. On my recent P-47 build, I was able to mechanically set up the ailerons on one channel to get more down than up for both sides.
page 8:
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/rc-w...ssembly-8.html
Maybe they used metric clevises and standards might be tighter else you'll have to fill the hole and redrill or add a bearing (brass).
I can't see my linkage with the flap in the way but I may have used standard american parts as I stay away from metric as much as possible as most parts sold in the US are in standard sizes so any future replacements are easy to do.
You usually want more down that up travel anyway (even though my throws are more up than down) so it may not be a problem. Set the servo arm ,mechanically, to give you more down than up or use two channels. On my recent P-47 build, I was able to mechanically set up the ailerons on one channel to get more down than up for both sides.
page 8:
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/rc-w...ssembly-8.html
Last edited by samparfitt; 06-16-2014 at 05:35 AM.
06-29-2014, 05:22 AM
#1375
The last flyin had a 1400' long paved/grass runway so I got 4 flights this weekend.
First time I used a paved runway for takeoff. Surprised at how little rudder was needed to keep her on the pavement. The throttle was forwarded very slowly. All the landings were on the grass, though.
Gear and wings are working great.
On the usual dry run of the wing mechanism without wings, I noticed the ends of the jack screw is pretty far down the threaded collar.
Also, one jack screw is out of round and wobbles: have to try to take that bow out of the jack screw.