Pit-Viper 1

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Just from my experience and the things I've seen happen, I would epoxy the wing together. I've watched quite a few planes, both trainers and warbirds, find out the expiration dates due to the loss of a wing. Most weren't being flown hard at all. Then you could glue the radiator scoop on a make 2 holes to remove the wing bolts. I remember one guy asking why he didn't glue them together and the reply was it was easier to haul. Another guy told him, now it's easier to haul in a garbage bag. Sad but true. Just my opinion though.

Shane

charlie1960

Epoxied the wing halves. Ang glued the belly scoop to the wing. Cut out the bulkheads in both ends of the belly scoop, on the wing and the fuse, to lighten. Blind nuts are in the wing with the wing bolts thru from inside the fuse. No holes in the scoop Contemplating a mini-servo driven radiator door. Mixed in with the throttle.

RodanAZ

I did much the same as Charlie. Wing epoxied together, modified so the wing bolts go on from the inside, and glued on the scoop. Works great.

There's a post in the RCG thread about how to do it.

Pit-Viper 1

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charlie1960 that's pretty slick..


Shane

charlie1960

pics

charlie1960

G/f has imformed me she is heading off to the giant retail hall across town. I gave her my card and requested a digital fish weighing scale. Soooooooooooooooooooooooooo, maybe an all up dry ready to fly weight with the saito 125 this afternoon.

Pit-Viper 1

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Another nice thing you can do is use it to get thrust measurements. Makes prop decisions alot quicker. Not sure how the motor/plane combo will work on this H9, I have found the APC16x6 and 15x10 to be overall better performers on my other Saito1.25/H9 combos. The 15x10 gives it some very nice speed. The MA 2/3blade work very well also, never did test them though to see what the thrust was like.


Shane

charlie1960

the 100 loves the MA14x8 two blade seems to be its optimum prop.
this 125 ive never flown yet, weather has been really lousy
i have taxied it and ran it tied to a cinder block. seems to make a hell of a lot of prop wash with a 15x8apc, pulls hard.
i plan to try differnt props after i get the scale.....just to satisfy my curiosity.
also need to recheck my CG.
has anyone heard of an update to the manual concerning CG?

Spitpilot

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RodanAZ - can you provide the actual link - I have failed to locate this particular post on RCG. Anyone out there know about the CG change talked about in the RCG post, http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showt...1#post13797083 on this airplane?

RodanAZ

Spit, which actual link? You lost me....

WRT the CG, most of us that have these flying are of the opinion that the CG in the manual is too far back. The manual gives a range of 4 5/8" to 5" (117-127mm), and a recommended CG of 4 7/8" (124mm).

Initial reports suggested that this was too far back, so I started with a CG of 120mm (~4 3/4"). I had to put in a lot of down trim, but the plane otherwise flew fine. I moved my CG to 115mm (4 1/2"), and have left it there. The plane flies fine, but it didn't allow me to remove the down trim. I think that is an incidence problem, I still need to measure it to be sure.

IMHO, there's not a "CG Problem" with this plane, just that the manual has the range a little too far back. An early video shows a plane with extreme pitch problems eventually crashing. While we don't have specific information on the setup of that plane, a CG at the rearward end of the manual's range, along with excessive elevator throw (which the manual listed), and a new warbird pilot could have easily combined to cause the crash in the video.

Anyone using the info available in the threads on this plane either here or at RCG shouldn't have fatal CG issues.

Spitpilot

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RodanAZ - this is the link I am referring to, the RCG thread - wing attach mods.

RodanAZ

OK, sorry...

I don't know where exactly it is, and unfortunately, I don't remember who posted it. You'll just have to search the thread for it.

Charlie's post above shows everything you need to do. Instead of putting the blind nuts in the fuse, put them in ply doublers on the bottom of the wing. The doublers are epoxied to the wing, and after you get it set up, epoxy the scoop to the wing (first remove the covering where it will glue on). You thread the wingbolts in from the top with the hatch off.

jet22b

Hi Guys;

When I set up my P-51 for its CG, I use the Great Plane C.G. Machine and the plane balance at 115MM!! I went to the manual and saw the CG was 124MM. Now my engine is a OS FS-120SE and the plane weight is 12.5 lbs. Now I do have a onboard glow system with a 4.2V 1100 mAh battery, and the plane still balance at 115MM (4 1/2"). I have yet to fly this bird, but I think I will leave the CG where it is now. I do think the control throws call for by the manual is a bit to much. I think somewhere in this thread, someone post the right throws and I set mines to that post.
Any one using the OS 120SE FS engine in their P-51?? I was out yesterday in my back yard running this engine with a Master Airscrew 15/8 prop. I did not tac the rpm, but this engine was pulling hard!! Any body have any pro's and con's on this motor??? It maybe spring before I can fly this baby, but I keep hoping that will not be the case.
As for the threads, they give alot of good info and help!! I wish we had this system back in the 70's when I jump into RC !!!!

Sonny
aka
jet22b

Spitpilot

My Feedback: (12)

Thanks RodanAZ - I may consider this mod but really have no problem with the manual suggestion except that I use a threaded insert in the wing and a 10-32 screw instead of the wood screws to hold the scoop in place and the wing halfs epoxied together.
WRT the CG location issue which keeps popping up I have done some comparison with my TF 1/7 P-51 kit. The TF kit has the same WS and area within a few sq in's, weighs about 13#, and flies very well with a Saito 120. The CG on the TF is at 30% MAC or 5.4 in aft of the wing LE @ the fuse and has a wing incidence is @ 1/2 deg with the horizontal tail @ 0 deg. The H9 Blue nose on the other hand apparently has the best CG @ 25.5% MAC or 4.5 in aft of the wing LE @ the fuse but has a wing incidence @ 1 deg with the horizontal tail @ 0 deg. This is probably the reason the CG is so far forward but still requires some amount of down elevator - has anyone got data on inverted flight with the CG this far farward as I would expect significant down elevator required for level inverted flight with the CG this far forward?

charlie1960

UPDATE:

Dry ready to fly weight, 10lbs 9oz.
Well within the 9.5 to 11 lb listed weight.

RodanAZ

Charlie, please remind us of your setup?

Going back a couple of pages, it looks like you've got a Saito 1.00, battery over the motor box, no pilot/cockpit, and significant material removal for lightening.

Can you tell us what size RX pack? And no additional weight, right?

I'd guess with fuel, you'll be just over 11lbs. That's one shortcoming of electric, we don't get to land lighter than we take off...

charlie1960

Sure...
Saito 125 Inverted, removed the 100 after 2 flights, and the 125 was just too good a deal.
2000 mah 5 cell 6.v RX pack was mounted just behind engine under the cowl, but is now behind directly behind fuel tank
JR and hitec standard servos
hitec 8 channel supreme II RX
14 once fuel tank (stock tank with three lines)
no additional weight
bare cockpit, no gear doors. (just dont like the molded plastic)
going to install robart 3 1/4 diamond treaded wheels with backing plates to simulate brake drums.

jet22b

Hi All;

Here is a link to a site that have lots of good things for the P-51!!
I do love the wheels!!! Take a look.
http://www.aerotechmodels.com/P51Wheels.htm

Sonny
aka
jet22b

Pit-Viper 1

My Feedback: (12)

Here's another place to get wheels also. I have a set of these and they are nice. Weight isn't bad either.

[link]https://www.aeroprotect.com/shopexd.asp?id=111[/link]

Shane

Spitpilot

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This stuff is for a 1/5 scale P-51 - no use for our 1/7 scale Blue Nose

charlie1960

those sullivan wheels look nice tho. and they make them in 3 1/2.

CH Ignitions

My Feedback: (11)

www.sullivanproducts.com/HomePageContent.htm

Here are al the wheels you want. They look good. You can get them direct from them.
I post the link for all things. Just go and clic on wheels and you'll get all the wheels. After the broken wheel plastic hub...I am thinking to get those ....or make my own.I'll see.
Mini cncmill should come soon.
Thank You
Adrian

CH Ignitions

My Feedback: (11)

Hmmmmmm, here you go.You need more weight on the nose...add an generator...and you'll get a longer flight,add couple bulet tanks like P51 had the drop tanks...sounds dumb ...but is an idea.
the whole catalog

www.sullivanproducts.com/Sullivan_Internet_Catalog.pdf

Adrian

Pit-Viper 1

My Feedback: (12)

Doesn't sound dumb at all, check this out. Page 2, post 35, pic#2 shows the generator my buddy made for a his Senior Telemaster project. Almost all electronics he made himself.

[link]http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_7054369/anchors_7054369/mpage_1/key_/anchor/tm.htm#7054369[/link]

Also here is our site and he offers some do it yourself projects to do the same under DIY Electronics, hasn't posted the generator yet as he wants to finish the project first. Which should be soon, he's working on the paint now.

[link]http://colorado-rc.com/[/link]


Shane

jet22b

I was looking at Sullivan website and I ran across this!!
Take a look!!
http://www.sullivanproducts.com/GenesysMainFrame.htm
Fly and recharge the battery at the sametime you run your onboard light system!! I don't want to know the cost!!!

BTW: Anybody using the antenna and mount on their P-51??
I like it but, I am having second thought about it!!

Merry Xmas Everyone!!!

Sonny
aka
jet22b