NCIS

I had a copy of the center section and left outer wing panel made today and now need to see if I have enough sticks to frame them up. If not it's a trip to BUSA for wood. I'm pretty sure I have enough for one at least. I will have to order plywood for the joiners and 3/32" sheeting for them also.

Barry

NCIS

I realized that all the detailing was written and shown on the right wing panel plan so I had a copy of that made and have started laying out the framework. Now I need to order some wood that I don't already have so I can start. The noches on the top and bottom of ribs 8 thru 11 have an extra wide notch. I didn't take that into account when I ordered the 3/8"x3/4" 5' lengths of spruce from aircraft spruce. I am going to use a different kind of hardwood to take up the addition 7/8" width I need just for 13". Here is what I've gotten layed out so far.

Barry

ram3500-RCU

My Feedback: (221)

Still watching. Looks good.

NCIS

I have been doing a bunch of cutting out notches and working on things to make the wing spring free. I made another 22 building angles so now it totals 40 of them. Thats 20 sets. I am using them to keep everything in alignment during the building of the right wing panel. I set everything up before any glue was applied. The aluminum spade is at a true 90 degrees with the ribs. I will use a 1 1 3/4" tall by what ever width it needs to be to line up with the center section joiner. Hope it works. Wish me good fortune. Here are the pix.

Barry

NCIS

I am done with the framing of the right wing panel and getting ready to build the left. I was interupted today to help out a friend with his Defender. I repaired his cowl if you remember and painted a bunch on his plane that the color was way off on. Him and I picked out the closest color in a can so it would be a cheap fix. Here is my right wing panel and his plane assembled.

Barry

NCIS

Almost done. I was going to leave somethings undone but decided to complet everything on the right panel except sheeting until I install the joiner spades. I installed the W16-a aileron tip rib and am now working on the flap hinges. One will be per plan but for the one on rib 8 where the wing seperates I had to cut out a nother couple WH-1's for this panel and the left panel. I have enough wood to complete the framing but will just need to buy 3/32"x48 sheeting. I'm hoping the way I have decided to hinge the flap at rib 8 won't cause any binding between the two hinges. What do you think from the pictures?

Barry

All Day Dan

My Feedback: (5)

Barry, We may have had this discussion before. Are the hinges wood or are you going to back them up with some other material? Dan.

NCIS

Dan,

They are 1/8" aircraft plywood and I intend to cover them in heavy fiberglass for added strength. Why do you ask? That is what the plan calles for but they do have a copper tube inside the holes for the bolts to go thru to prevent wear from movement over time. I wish I had G-10 but don't.

Barry

All Day Dan

My Feedback: (5)

I have had no experience with a model this size but I have seen large models go in because of hinge failure. This plane will probably wind up around 75 pounds or more. That is a very heavy load for a wooden hinge. Some of the other large builds have used G10 to back up the wood. See if you can get in touch with Sam Parfitt. He builds the Ziroli planes also. Maybe he can contribute something with his experience with the hinges. Dan.

NCIS

OK Dan I'll send him a PM. But wouldn't carbon fiber sheeting be just as strong as G-10?

Barry

wingspar

My Feedback: (3)

I agree with Dan on this one. I would get rid of the the wooden hinge and redo them fiberglass. Making your own fiberglass sheets is easy.

Cut out a large piece of wax paper. Place it on a flat clean surface. Cut out seven squares of 6 oz fiberglass cloth. Lay out a fiberglass square on wax paper and saturate with a good grade of epoxy resin. Do one at a time until all squares are in place. Lay out another large piece of wax paper on top. Place a strong flat piece on top. I use 3/4 inch playwood. Place a heavy weight on top to provide even pressure. I use an old car battery. I let it set for about two day to get a full cure. Cutting this material can be hell on saw blades so have lots on hand.

Dave

All Day Dan

My Feedback: (5)

Sorry Barry but I don't have any knowledge about the material comparisons of G10 and carbon fiber. I have seen G10 used on the large builds. I think the guys were using the existing wood hinges as a pattern for the G10. Maybe you can get it from these guys.
http://www.mcmaster.com/#

warks62

My Feedback: (140)

I use PC Board and always buy the double copper clad great stuff to make stuff out of. You can solder to it or use it just like any other G10. CA sticks to it unbelievable or epoxy. Have used it for horns just drilled a few small holes where it went into the wood just like any other composite hinge or horn. Easiest place to pick it up for me is e b a y. Just search for double clad in the computer section and it will come up. Comes in different thickness I usually use 1/16" but there is a thicker 3/32" size. Extremely strong......

NCIS

That wouldn't be possible because all the wood hinges have either been epoxied in or they are part of the rib. I am just going to rienforce them with something. Removing them is out of the question. I will need to figure out a way to reinforce the ones I have. The 1/16" circuit board sounds good. Remember there isn't any side drag on these just pushing back. I started the left wing panel today and am happy I am on the last of the framing. I am getting sick of looking at my Corsair with no wings. I can't wait to see the framed up outer panels on it. Then it will come to life.

Thanks for the help Guy's,

Barry

LargeScale88

Lookin good!

Where did you get the metal squares with the pin through them? I think they would come in great handy.

Thanks

Jason

NCIS

I make them myself and sell them on my website www.canopyrailsforwarbirds.com Order some up. I have 20 sets. They are $7.38 per set. These are stackable for ease of storage. They are made out of architectual grade aluminum used for cornerguard in big buildings. They are 2"x2".

Barry

LargeScale88

Does 1 set for $7.38 include 2?

I think I'm gonna have to purchase a set of 10 soon.

Thanks

Jason

NCIS

Jason,

Yes each pair is $7.38 or for a minimum set of 10 pairs is $70.00 plus shipping. I give a discount when ordering a complete set of 10 pairs. If you order 20 pairs I discount even more and the cost goes down to $6.00 per pair so 20 pairs would be $120.00 plus shipping. Please allow 10 days turn around time. If you wish to discuss this any further please either email me at [email protected] or call me at 920-723-7959 after 10:00am CST. I don't want to break the RCU rules anymore than I just did.

Thanks for your interest,

Barry

NCIS

I am almost finished framing the left wing panel. I just need to do the tip profile and add W-10a for the aileron servo. Then it will be time to move the Beast back to the build table for final fitting of the joiner system in the wing panels so I can sheet them.

Barry

NCIS

I am finished with the left wing panel framing as far as I can go until it is fitted with the maple spar and 23" long spade that I have to have remade because the ones I had made for it are now to short. They are only 18" long and I want them to go throgh ribs #8, 9, 10, 10a and but up against #11. There is 10" needed to go into the center section box channels. I have the tip finished now but it was still incomplete when I took these pix's. After the new spades are made I can move the Beast back to the work table and fit the outer panels to each side of the center section. It came out at just under 126".

Barry

cimara

Maple spar ? Wont that be brittle as compaired to spruce ?

NCIS

It's not the spar for the top and bottom of the wing. It is the strongest hardwood for the horizontal spar for the notches in the ribs on the inside for the spade to get attached to. It only will handle the up and down movement of the spade if you have been following my thread.

Barry

I will post a picture of the internal notches in the next post.

NCIS

Winston,

You can see a piece of 3/4" tall x 3/8" thick x 13" long maple spar in postion from rib #8 through #9, #10, #10a and butting up againgst rib #11 where the big spar will take it's place. The smaller one was just to help align the ribs so the spar is at 90 degrees to the rib #8. The real spar will be 1 3/4" tall x 1/4" to 5/16" thick x 13" long which will fill the notch and aid in spade alignment. Maple is much better for this than spruce. Spruce is to soft for it to hold a bolt without rounding out over time even with the precautions I am going to take. The spar will have triangular stock to hold it in place in additoin to the same on the top and bottom of the spade to completely keep it from shifting up or down. Plus I have a large block of spruce and don't want to have to try and order spruce for this. It may take several times of planing and trial and error to get the thickness just right so I need an ample supply.

Barry
Corsairkidd

cimara

Ok its just the mount for the aluminum to be bolted too not the main wing spar its self .

NCIS

The Beast now has it's wings. I can't do anything really until I have my friend help me move the big fuse over to the build table but I just couldn't wait to see how the outer left panel fit up against the center section. I am pleased to say everything is lining up and it looks like the 3 piece wing idea I have will work. I will explain how it works as I do the installation and trial and error fitting. The biggest question is how thich the 1 3/4" tall by 13" long maple horizontal spar the spade bolts to will need to be to line up exactly with the center section female box channel. Here are some pix's.

Barry