Well, as the title says, I have a few questions about the Yellow Aircraft Zero.
1. Are there any up-grades for the zero, like I see for the spitfire, any hints/tips?
2. What is the best way to do scale detailing (flush and non-flush rivits, panel lines, etc.)
3. Who is flying one? (happy?)

Thanks,
Ron

They fly great... Mine was 27 pounds with a G-45 in it upright.
Make sure you install EVERYTHING ahead of the CG and use a light cockpit kit.
It is hard to lighten the tail on this Zero. Use the heaviest motor you can fit in the cowl.
Flies grat with a G-62 and a 20-10 3 blade prop from Beila.

Good luck

Rebel

Hi, Ron.<div>
</div><div>I have one flying with G38 that weighs 27lbs. It flies very scale but requires that I always stay on top of it with VERY careful throttle management. <div>
</div><div>No rivets on mine. Panel lines are molded in fuse, but the wing requires detail. My wings were done with Chart-Pak tape (I get it through Amazon.com). 1/64 or 1/32 will work for the 1/6 Zero. Glass and prime the wing as usual until the finish is satisfactory. Then just lay down the panel line tape using a 3-view or plastic model as reference. Prime over the tape with high-build primer, lightly sand away the primer until the tape just shows, then peel off the tape. There's your recessed panel lines. Then it is onto riveting. Lots of info on this site regarding flush and raised rivet detailing.
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</div><div>Regarding power, I would use a G45 (minimum), but I have seen G62 installations that don't look too bad. </div><div>
</div><div>The biggest "hint," as Rebel Flyer already stated, is to keep everything as far forward as possible. He is also correct stating that there is little that can be done to lighten the tail. It cannot be stressed enough that you should NOT needlessly add weight aft of the CG! You'll be sorry!</div><div>
</div><div>Lastly, be careful with the YA supplied spinner. It's very heavy, which is good because you'll need to add multiple pounds to the nose to get it this plane to balance) but you must CAREFULLY cut, drill, tap and mount the cone to the back-plate so that it remains balanced (pain in the butt). If the spinner is at all out of balance the vibration will kill your engine/airframe in short order. Excess spinner weight is also pretty hard on the motor bearings.</div><div>
</div><div>I used a lighter spinner from Gene Barton Enterprises. He'll accurately cut for the prop you plan to use and mount the cone to the back-plate for an extra $25. The scale of his spinner is right on, too. He actually made these for the Bert Baker Zero's, which is exact model upon which the YA Zero is patterned.</div><div>
</div><div>Flies very predictable, flaps are effective (minimal pitch changes with 40 degrees down on my plane) and should always be used when landing. The added lift is of course coupled with lots of added drag, so don't try to float this plane down... keep on the power until you're sure your home free. YA models come out a little on the heavy side so they must be flown to the ground. They are generally NOT floaters. </div><div>
</div><div>My YA landing gear have held up very well. No problems at all.</div><div>
</div><div>Did you already start yours, or are you just soliciting feedback before you decide to purchase?</div><div>
</div><div>Keep us posted, and good luck.</div><div>
</div><div>Noah</div><div>
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