Maxam

My Feedback: (62)

John, I do not know. I have never owned the earlier version of the pump. Can someone else help? -Tom

mogman

Hi Guys.

I 'm looking for a carb kit for a BING 49 carb on my Moki 400.

Any ideas. Nobody up here has any idea where to get one...(small engine shops)
I haven't had any issues with the carb...yet.... it's been about 5 years. I'm also using an early aps 380 fuel pump. Just doing some preventative maintanence. The carb is spotless inside.

I wonder if a Walbro WJ-71 would be a direct replacement?????

Cheers,
Dave.

Maxam

My Feedback: (62)

Dave, Bing has a US representative that supplies the BMW motorcycle guys. I bet they can help or steer you in the right direction for your preventive maintenance. -Tom

mogman

Thanks Tom. It appears that the carb and all parts are discontinued, at least up here in Canada.

I've e-mailed Goetz at Vogelsang to see if he can help.

As an aside, anybody here that has a 400, what brand of carb is on it?

Cheers,
Dave.

DENTO

E-bay bing 49 carb $50 us
regards

Hinckley Bill

My Feedback: (569)

Dento,

Excellent suggestion ...... but one has to be extremely careful, as many bing 49 carb kits are not at all what is being searched for, as evidenced in this thread:

http://www.arboristsite.com/communit...arb-kit.92604/

mogman

Thanks for the suggestion. The picture shown on e-bay for a 49 carb kit may or may not be of the actual kit but what is shown is nowhere close to what I have.

crusier

My Feedback: (37)

Hey guys have old style 215 moki, no spark on number 4 , got rid of the speaker connector a while back and Sodered wires together. Any idea which wire is the #4 (color) ? All other cylinders show spark except #4 any ideas what to check as always thanks. Also is there a new ignition system to replace the old top hat style

Scott Prossen

The following is from someone I regard as an expert in Mechanics in general and the Moki specifically. He has done work on mine once or twice and I always trust his work. He shared this with me so I could post for some or all of us to use. It's just an approach that seems to work well and I thank you Jon for sharing.

Tuning the Moki 215/250 and the 250R radial engines.

First you must have a good tachometer and temp gauge. I use the TNC tach and the temp gauge sold by
Loews. I know the TNC tach is expensive but it works. PLEASE take your time. It will be worth it.

1. Make sure that the ignition battery is fully charged and if using a voltage regulator set to 6 volts.
If you are using one of the new Blue ignitions you can use a 6.6 LiFe battery without the
regulator.
2. Set the low speed needle at 1 ¼ turns out from stop. Set the high speed needle 1 ½ turns out
from stop.
3. Have your tach ready.
4. Start the engine and let it warm up for about 30 seconds.
5. Advance the throttle slowly until you reach full rpm. DO NOT let the engine go over 5000 rpm’s.
6. Bring back to an idle for 10-15 seconds and the advance the throttle again and make note of the
response. It should be smooth. If not don’t worry we will fix it soon.
7. Shut of the engine and take a temp reading of the number one cylinder and number three
cylinder. One is upright and number three is counter clockwise from the top facing the front of
the engine..
8. The temp of number one should be between 195° and 220° F and the number three should be
between 160° and 165° F.
9. Now begins the fun.
10. If the temp of number three is not in the range suggested, say too low which is likely, lean the
low speed needle a very small amount. Like 1/8 of a turn or less.
11. Re start engine and bring rpm’s up hold for 5 seconds and back to idle. Shut of engine and
recheck temps.
12. Keep doing this until you get the temp in the range suggested for number three cylinder.
13. If the number one cylinder is high turn the high speed needle out 1/8 of a turn.
14. Remember the low speed needle controls the mixture of the idle and mid-range and the high
speed needle will start to take effect in the upper mid-range and high rpm’s.
15. Take your time.
16. DO NOT run the engine more than 5 minutes on the ground. Let it cool for 10-15 minutes and
try again to get the temps in the range suggested.
17. Once you achieve the temps you will have an engine that will not drop number three cylinder.
18. This will take time. Do not rush.
19. A word about oil. Over the last five years I have run different brands of oil and have found some
work and some don’t. I will not name names but will tell you what I would recommend. Use oil
that is fully synthetic and meets the
JASO and ISO HD ratings. The ratings will be on the
container of oil. If it is not on the can ask and make sure it can be verified. I use RED LINE and
ECHO oil which can bought at most lawn and chain saw repair shops. If it is a new engine mix the
oil
32:1 for the first gallon of gas burned. After the first gallon mix the oil 50:1. This will give
good life on all the internal parts and the spark plugs.
20. If you have any questions e-mail me at
[email protected]. It might take me a couple of days to
answer but I will. I travel a lot.

wingstrut

rbgetz, Check your compression on that cylinder, sounds like you may have over revved the engine and the valve may came in contact with the piston, if you have good compression and everything seems to be alright after you install the new pushrods then check your static rpm.
These babies can't be revved like a two stroke. Obviously something had to quit moving in order to bend a pushrod, they don't just bend on their own................Ron

crusier

My Feedback: (37)

Hey guys have old style 215 moki, no spark on number 4 , got rid of the speaker connector a while back and Sodered wires together. Any idea which wire is the #4 (color) ? All other cylinders show spark except #4 any ideas what to check as always thanks. Also is there a new ignition system to replace the old top hat style

Scott Prossen

yes there's a new ignition. $500 or so from http://www.teamaeroscale.com/ Dr. G has had them for almost a year or so from Moki. Beautiful thing.
It could be that one of your coils is shot. Just a guess.

GeorgiaFlyer

sounds like the coil for that cylinder is bad.

Jaketab

My Feedback: (2)

Crusier,

I had the #4 coil to fail back when my Moki 250 was little over 1 year old. I made some posts and pics beginning on pages 73-75. I obtained a single new coil from Airworld in Germany. It came with the wire and boot already attached. To replace - it will require de-soldering the coil from the common ground ring and soldering in the new. I used de-soldering wick and had no trouble freeing the bad coil. It was just a lucky guess on my part that the coil was bad. This was the least expensive option to try before replacing the ignition module. If a coil is bad, a new ignition will not help. That was back in 2012. My Moki has run great ever since.

Good luck,
Jaketab

crusier

My Feedback: (37)

Thank you guys for your reply so I appreciate it

Ragz

Is anyone using red loctite on the exhaust manifold nuts? They loosen up after every start/run.

Maxam

My Feedback: (62)

This was a problem with the older smaller nuts and many people used the red RTV on them with success. My newer Moki's with the larger nuts seemed to need one tightening after the first run and that was it. A big mistake was to over tighten them. I marked the nut and ring with a straight line with a sharpie to indicate unscrewing. Amazingly the heat does not remove the sharpie mark. None have unscrewed like the old ones did. -Tom

DENTO

Hi Tom have not attempted to yet just wondering if the exhaust pipes come off separately ok
REGARDS
JOHN

Maxam

My Feedback: (62)

John, just wanted to make clear. I am talking about the exhaust to ring nut, not the head to exhaust nut. -Tom

DENTO

Would be exhaust to ring nut Tom reason being want to back off and apply Loctite Had thought maybe had to take all off at same time
REGARDS
JOHN

Maxam

My Feedback: (62)

No John, Just do one at a time. -Tom

DENTO

Thanks Tom

Ragz

Finally it flew. Here are the links to two videos.

Test flight

https://youtu.be/x8hVP--1E_g

Second flight

https://youtu.be/bP4QmnAbwMg

The videos are very basic, just very excited to share.

One things about the engine. After 2 runs, I noticed the large exhaust manifold nuts came loose. Almost HALF TURN... I am sure this is not normal. What could be happening? vibrations? My prop seems pretty good.

Maxam

My Feedback: (62)

Hey Rags, congratulations! Looks different when someone takes off from their doorstep. When you tighten the nuts, don't over tighten. Your engine sounds underpropped. Those where very high RPM's on the dives. Throttle back on the down lines. -Tom

Ragz

Hi Tom, Thank you. I have set up the H at 1.5 and L at 1.25 turns out. The ground rpms are 3825. I am using the c-arf 30x12 4 bladed prop. What do you suggest I set the ground revs to?

thanks.