ZIROLI F9F PANTHER BUILD
04-07-2010, 01:41 PM
#152
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: herveybay, AUSTRALIA
Posts: 304
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: ZIROLI F9F PANTHER BUILD
ORIGINAL: samparfitt
Works62:
Thanks for the location of obtaining high heat paint.
Being a cheap SOB, I'll probably go with the aluminum duct tape.
John,
Looks like we're both at about the same construction phase.
DVS1:
The reason that I'm building this jet is because it has about the same flight characteristics of my big WW II warbirds: I can fly her at about the same speed and with the straight wing, similar landings.
See post #105 for videos of Dave Chew's panther:
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_88..._5/key_/tm.htm
===============
Wet sanding (cont)
I finished up the fuse and did the wings, wing tanks and fuse hatch.
EasySand is next to fill in the imperfections.
Works62:
Thanks for the location of obtaining high heat paint.
Being a cheap SOB, I'll probably go with the aluminum duct tape.
John,
Looks like we're both at about the same construction phase.
DVS1:
The reason that I'm building this jet is because it has about the same flight characteristics of my big WW II warbirds: I can fly her at about the same speed and with the straight wing, similar landings.
See post #105 for videos of Dave Chew's panther:
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_88..._5/key_/tm.htm
===============
Wet sanding (cont)
I finished up the fuse and did the wings, wing tanks and fuse hatch.
EasySand is next to fill in the imperfections.
Sam this is a site at RCU that may give you an idear on panel lines and rivet as to what they look like ,
Yes sam am about at the same stage as you but am about to leave on a trip down south to a jet meet at wangeratta in VIC and a bit of a van trip for 6 weeks so the panther shall come to a stand still for a bit of time KEEP UP THE GOOD WORK.
REGARDS
JOHN
04-09-2010, 04:17 PM
#154
RE: ZIROLI F9F PANTHER BUILD
Rivets
I just spent 5 hours hand, wet sanding all the parts using 220 grit sandpaper.
The surfaces are all smooth.
I still have to remove the 1/32" chart tape.
The horizontal stab still needs panel lines.
Next will be applying the rivets.
I just spent 5 hours hand, wet sanding all the parts using 220 grit sandpaper.
The surfaces are all smooth.
I still have to remove the 1/32" chart tape.
The horizontal stab still needs panel lines.
Next will be applying the rivets.
04-11-2010, 09:33 AM
#155
RE: ZIROLI F9F PANTHER BUILD
Rivets (cont)
I put on all the access hatch panels on the fuse using aluminum duct tape.
The screws heads for the access panels were a piece of brass tubing and a small straight screw driver for the screw slot.
I also 'straight line' penciled in all the locations on panels where additional rivets will be located.
I started riveting the tail area of the fuse.
As with the P-61, I'm just 'eye balling' the rivets in place although the distance between the rivets in now about an 1/8".
I put in the next smaller tube into my rivet maker to reduce the size to about 1/16" diameter.
I just slid the smaller tube in the rivet maker and let friction hold it in place.
For now I'm leaving the rivets off the LE of the vertical fin; after painting, I'll add some aluminum duct tape to the LE and then add the rivets (the LE of the stab and wings will get the same 'treatment').
A couple hundred rivets done and about 10,000 more to go!
I really like the rivets as they make the plane 'come alive'.
I put on all the access hatch panels on the fuse using aluminum duct tape.
The screws heads for the access panels were a piece of brass tubing and a small straight screw driver for the screw slot.
I also 'straight line' penciled in all the locations on panels where additional rivets will be located.
I started riveting the tail area of the fuse.
As with the P-61, I'm just 'eye balling' the rivets in place although the distance between the rivets in now about an 1/8".
I put in the next smaller tube into my rivet maker to reduce the size to about 1/16" diameter.
I just slid the smaller tube in the rivet maker and let friction hold it in place.
For now I'm leaving the rivets off the LE of the vertical fin; after painting, I'll add some aluminum duct tape to the LE and then add the rivets (the LE of the stab and wings will get the same 'treatment').
A couple hundred rivets done and about 10,000 more to go!
I really like the rivets as they make the plane 'come alive'.
04-13-2010, 12:43 PM
#165
RE: ZIROLI F9F PANTHER BUILD
rivets (cont)
The horizontal stab is the last piece to have to be riveted.
I just put on a coat of primer for the panel lines.
After sanding and riveting, I can then epoxy the stab to the fuse.
At that stage I will finally be painting the plane.
The horizontal stab is the last piece to have to be riveted.
I just put on a coat of primer for the panel lines.
After sanding and riveting, I can then epoxy the stab to the fuse.
At that stage I will finally be painting the plane.
04-13-2010, 12:58 PM
#166
RE: ZIROLI F9F PANTHER BUILD
ORIGINAL: samparfitt
Thanks for the compliments.
Hey Ram3500:
I saw your P-47 at the Toledo show: very impressive work.
=======================
Rivets (cont)
Both wings and tanks are now done.
Thanks for the compliments.
Hey Ram3500:
I saw your P-47 at the Toledo show: very impressive work.
=======================
Rivets (cont)
Both wings and tanks are now done.
04-14-2010, 09:58 AM
#167
RE: ZIROLI F9F PANTHER BUILD
Ram3500,
Sure did, a sweet looking plane.
My itinerary is in my road trips 2010, post 5.
As new ones show up in mags and the web, I'll update it:
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_95...tm.htm#9590492
==================
side tracked:
my buddy's yellow spit got some primer added.
Sure did, a sweet looking plane.
My itinerary is in my road trips 2010, post 5.
As new ones show up in mags and the web, I'll update it:
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_95...tm.htm#9590492
==================
side tracked:
my buddy's yellow spit got some primer added.
04-14-2010, 09:47 PM
#169
RE: ZIROLI F9F PANTHER BUILD
stab and wing tanks
First I put the wings on the fuse and leveled the plane and then aligned the stab to the work bench (alias: door).
I masked all edges within an 1/8" to keep the slop contained.
I then mixed some epoxy with a lot of microballs (so the epoxy was more like caulk and didn't run) and filled in a few spots to hold the stab to the fuse.
After the epoxy on the stab was dry, I did the same for the wing tanks.
Finally, I used some hysol to secure the stab to the fuse and tanks to the wings.
The hysol works like caulk so I could use some water on a finger to form a nice smooth fillet.
I immediately removed the masking tape to let the hysol cure over night.
First I put the wings on the fuse and leveled the plane and then aligned the stab to the work bench (alias: door).
I masked all edges within an 1/8" to keep the slop contained.
I then mixed some epoxy with a lot of microballs (so the epoxy was more like caulk and didn't run) and filled in a few spots to hold the stab to the fuse.
After the epoxy on the stab was dry, I did the same for the wing tanks.
Finally, I used some hysol to secure the stab to the fuse and tanks to the wings.
The hysol works like caulk so I could use some water on a finger to form a nice smooth fillet.
I immediately removed the masking tape to let the hysol cure over night.
04-15-2010, 04:49 PM
#171
My Feedback: (85)
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: CygnetTasmania, AUSTRALIA
Posts: 274
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: ZIROLI F9F PANTHER BUILD
G'Day Sam & Bob.
I am going to try and make it there as well this year, would like to catch up with you blokes.
Regards.
Bill
I am going to try and make it there as well this year, would like to catch up with you blokes.
Regards.
Bill
04-15-2010, 07:06 PM
#172
RE: ZIROLI F9F PANTHER BUILD
Bob,
sounds good.
I and my friends are heading up Saturday so we should get a good spot.
Bill,
Whoa, that's quite a 'drive' from Australia!
With over 800 pilots, it's a lot of fun.
================================
Painting
I put the yellow on first since it is a difficult color.
I had a lot of problems with my gun clogging.
I used a strainer after the first clog but it still clogged.
I took the gun apart and diluted the paint more but still had a lot of problems.
Right at the end of painting, the gun started to work too well and cause some heavy applications.
With so many variations of the gun, it's hard not to get runs.
I like to put a light coat on the first past but it came out too fast and I had a lot of 'fish eyes' on the horizontal stab.
Fortunately, after letting the paint surface dry, the next coats covered the fish eyes.
I had to put about five coats on to get an even color.
One nice thing about water base is a 'light' run will even itself out.
I screwed up after running water through the gun to clear out the clog; I forgot to run the gun until paint started to come out and got water on the bottom of the tank and then the paint came out and caused a bad run. Fortunately, it's on the bottom of the tank but I'll probably light sand it after the paint completely dries. I've got a couple other light runs that are difficult to see as they 'settled' so I can probably left those 'go'. I can't remember having this much trouble with clogging in the past.
The rivets and panel lines look good though: you can see them but they are subdued.
pic 1-4:
Tail of the fuse, ailerons, flaps, elevators and wings painted yellow.
My band saw and mortising machine worked well for holding the wings!
Everything was painted under the tree and then brought inside.
pic 5:
Window washer fluid for thinning, floetrol (from HD) to reduce viscosity and Behr paint.
sounds good.
I and my friends are heading up Saturday so we should get a good spot.
Bill,
Whoa, that's quite a 'drive' from Australia!
With over 800 pilots, it's a lot of fun.
================================
Painting
I put the yellow on first since it is a difficult color.
I had a lot of problems with my gun clogging.
I used a strainer after the first clog but it still clogged.
I took the gun apart and diluted the paint more but still had a lot of problems.
Right at the end of painting, the gun started to work too well and cause some heavy applications.
With so many variations of the gun, it's hard not to get runs.
I like to put a light coat on the first past but it came out too fast and I had a lot of 'fish eyes' on the horizontal stab.
Fortunately, after letting the paint surface dry, the next coats covered the fish eyes.
I had to put about five coats on to get an even color.
One nice thing about water base is a 'light' run will even itself out.
I screwed up after running water through the gun to clear out the clog; I forgot to run the gun until paint started to come out and got water on the bottom of the tank and then the paint came out and caused a bad run. Fortunately, it's on the bottom of the tank but I'll probably light sand it after the paint completely dries. I've got a couple other light runs that are difficult to see as they 'settled' so I can probably left those 'go'. I can't remember having this much trouble with clogging in the past.
The rivets and panel lines look good though: you can see them but they are subdued.
pic 1-4:
Tail of the fuse, ailerons, flaps, elevators and wings painted yellow.
My band saw and mortising machine worked well for holding the wings!
Everything was painted under the tree and then brought inside.
pic 5:
Window washer fluid for thinning, floetrol (from HD) to reduce viscosity and Behr paint.
04-16-2010, 03:35 PM
#175
RE: ZIROLI F9F PANTHER BUILD
painting (cont)
I lightly wet sanded all the parts and sanded away the runs so I can apply another coat of paint.
If I hadn't gone through to the primer, I probably could have just left the paint 'as is' after the sanding since I'll be applying a clear coat after the decals are on.
I lightly wet sanded all the parts and sanded away the runs so I can apply another coat of paint.
If I hadn't gone through to the primer, I probably could have just left the paint 'as is' after the sanding since I'll be applying a clear coat after the decals are on.