My Zero has suffered a twist of fate.
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My Zero has suffered a twist of fate.
Well, the continuing saga of newbie at the bench continues.
Question, can sheeting applied to a fuselage in a certain manner remove a twist in the fuselage? Or in other words, can I use sheetting to compensate for the twist? It isn't much of a twist, but...
Question, can sheeting applied to a fuselage in a certain manner remove a twist in the fuselage? Or in other words, can I use sheetting to compensate for the twist? It isn't much of a twist, but...
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RE: My Zero has suffered a twist of fate.
I don't know the exact issue that your are dealing with but, assuming your fuse is not sheeted, if you hold it straight while you sheet it, it should remain straight when you are done.
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RE: My Zero has suffered a twist of fate.
a pic is worth a thousand words .... why don't you post some pic so we can see what the problem is your having , we may be able to direct you a little better
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RE: My Zero has suffered a twist of fate.
Chad is spot on... if it's still in the bones (formers and stringers), just pin (or tack glue) the fuse to the bench so that it's again over the plans and perfectly straight, and then apply the sheeting. The sheeting will lock it all together and hold it straight. Just be sure that when you sheet the fuse you alternate between left and right side... add a piece to the left side, then an equivalent sheet to the right. Alternating in this manner will prevent further warping.
If you've already sheeted, then that's another can of worms.
Show us a picture, as Zero-322 suggested.
If you've already sheeted, then that's another can of worms.
Show us a picture, as Zero-322 suggested.
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RE: My Zero has suffered a twist of fate.
I just remembered that you're building a Meister Zero on an elevated crutch, right? If that's the case, then of course you can't just tack glue the fuse to the building board. But you can glue the elevation supports to the board, and then glue the crutch to the elevation supports. This will accomplish the same thing. When building from an elevated crutch, I draw reference lines on my building board (most importantly a long, straight centerline), and then use a carpenters square to check the alignment of the fuse/crutch relative to those lines.
With those lines in place, you should be able to square it all back up, tack it down so it's flat and the sheet the top. After sheeting the top of the fuse, just break the tack-glued joints, flip the fuse over and sheet the bottom.
With those lines in place, you should be able to square it all back up, tack it down so it's flat and the sheet the top. After sheeting the top of the fuse, just break the tack-glued joints, flip the fuse over and sheet the bottom.
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RE: My Zero has suffered a twist of fate.
OK, every picture tells a story don't it.
You remember correctly butlern, it's a Meister on a crutch. Here are 4 pictures, 2 before I clamp B/H B8 to the crutch upright, and 2 after with a shot of the level on the horizontal stab. shelf. I have a total of 3 crutch uprights under the fuse. 1 behind B1, one in the middle of the fuse and the last one I used to clamp the pictured b/h to.
Note: the other 5 contact points between the crutch and the crutch uprights remains constant with or without the clamp on the one area pictured. The crutch in those 5 other areas remains in contact with their repsective uprights.
You remember correctly butlern, it's a Meister on a crutch. Here are 4 pictures, 2 before I clamp B/H B8 to the crutch upright, and 2 after with a shot of the level on the horizontal stab. shelf. I have a total of 3 crutch uprights under the fuse. 1 behind B1, one in the middle of the fuse and the last one I used to clamp the pictured b/h to.
Note: the other 5 contact points between the crutch and the crutch uprights remains constant with or without the clamp on the one area pictured. The crutch in those 5 other areas remains in contact with their repsective uprights.