makmov

My Feedback: (1)

I have not flown an airplane in a long long time, but am building a Warbird. What would be a good plane to jump into before flying a Ziroli Zero. I also never flow anything but a .40 Trainner.

Ihave been on Real Flight and do fine with the Warbird, except the AT-6 which Istall on EVERYSINGLElanding attempt. Fly the Ultimate no problems, but not real good with the really fast pattern/sports.

Ifly small helis 200/250s, 450s and have a 50 Class so learned to be very proficent with flying rudder when Ifly a plane. It's made me a way better pilot than Iwas 10 years ago flying with using rudder at all per my instructor.

Ihave an CG Ultimate Icould build, and Iam open to another plane. Iam just not a sport plane guy.

Another pilot said he was Real Flight for months got a Ulitmate ARF and then flew his TFCorsair GE and nothing else inbetween no trainer or anythingwithout too much troubles - couple of minor whoppsies with the Bip.

makmov

My Feedback: (1)

Sure would be nice if you "Other" guys would explain.

What did you guys fly just before flying your Warbird and what was the first Warbird you flew?

Ram-bro

My Feedback: (101)

everybodies 1 st warbird...at least in my generation was either a Mustang or a P47. I went from the Bridi trainer into a house of balsa P51, 30 size. Not the best path but we both survived it. You should definietly fly something a lil more expendable b4 you try a true warbird. Master your left hand nad tail draggers. A perfect warbird in my opinion though is the Top Flite P47. Lots of wing, long tail moment and wide track landing gear. depending on your skill level and willingness to possibly sacrifice a warbird makes a difference in what size you want to start with. If money and transportation are not a concern, go large. I am sure you can find a warbird here on rcu that will fit that bill

makmov

My Feedback: (1)

Yeah, seems like everyone has a P-51, I am just not interested in that plane maybe because everyone has one.

I did hear good stuff about the P-47.

I don't have any plane at this time I do have bunch of kits though.

TF Gold Ed. P-40
TF Gold Ed. Hollywood Zero
Carl Goldberg Ultimate Bi
Wing Mfg Wildcat
Starting to compile stuff for a Ziroli Zero
Just ordered a GP RV-4 40
Royal Zero Senor
Aerostar 20
GWS Zero
GWS Corsair

Imight have some others squirreled away


Ihad owned a Malibu 40 which Iflew for 2-3 years before finally caving in the firewall, so I fly but don't burn through planes like somepeople. Imean Iseen one guy burn through 4 (including a highspeed t-bone into a 30 Class heli)and was on his fifth in one day didn'teven phase him.

Spychalla Aircraft

My Feedback: (34)

Get yourself a Lanier Giant Stinger. Put a G-62 on it. Get used to flying it in the standard configuration first, then when comfortable start adding several lbs. of weight on the C.G. When you can fly this beast with about 5 lbs. extra in the belly then you'll be ready for that Ziroli Zero.

Leo

paladin

My Feedback: (9)

Makmov,
The two things you need to get used to are taking off and unloading the wing. And landing with flaps, ½ t and 45 degrees of flap.

I would go with the H9 new P-51 powered by a 1.2 4c(inverted) or 90 2c(side mounted) and spring air retracts. This will give enough power to take off like a sport plane and when you are ready to try scale takeoff (low angle of attack) you can practice with plenty of power in reserve.

Landing with flaps reduce T to ½ wait for the plane to slow (you will need to add E to keep it level) then add 45 degrees of flaps. Reverse chandelle to the runway, level off throttle back let the flaps bleed the speed and wheel land it. You will screw it up a few times don’t try to make a landing from a bad position go around. If you get to nervous put the flaps up and float it in. the H9 gives you that option. Repairs are easier on a small plane also.

The Z Zero has more mass and higher wing loading so it is less forgiving vs it looks like its flying much slower.

Every warbird pilot has had a p-51 I have had 4

You can also use your trainer for takeoff practice, I tought my some by having him takeoff fly around and land with the same T setting. It can be done!

Joe

RodanAZ

This is a problem... I just pulled this up, as I'd never really played with the AT-6 on G4.5. You must be trying to land waaay too slowly, 'cause I couldn't hardly get it to stall. I think one of the problems with Realflight is that the planes are too hard to stall. And yes, I'm running on the most difficult setting....

Do this for practice on the sim: get it up there a little ways and cut the motor and practice deadsticks. Do this until you can reliably land the various warbirds from all kinds of positions. You can also set the flight failures to kick in a lot. This will improve your skills. Also try setting a stiff (15-20mph) crosswind and practice landings and takeoffs.

You can do a lot of things with the sim to make it harder and work on your skills, but assume just about anything real is going to be harder to fly.

I would definitely spend considerable time with a 60-90 size warbird before putting a Ziroli anything in the air. That's a lot of work to risk...

BTW, the new H9 Mustang is a pretty nice ARF. I just finished mine (re-liveried as "Excalibur") and plan to maiden it tomorrow. Yes, I know the exhaust stacks are missing, I bought some resin ones to replace the crap vacuum molded ones that came with the kit, and I haven't had time to install them. Going to maiden it first. I'll let you know how it flies...

makmov

My Feedback: (1)

Iam still using G2 which Ithink is harder than the G4 planes Iflew.

Ihave not too much trouble with the Corsair, or the P-51 but the AT-6 gets me everytime.

Itry coming in faster and get the same results. come in looks like a good landing start to flair touch down bounce up and stall and nose it 75% of the time the other 25% it tip stalls. It's the only plane on three volumes of RF G2 that gives me this much trouble.

Well Igot some TFGold kits, but since the Hollywood Zero is based off the AT-6 Ia bit put off by it.

paladin

My Feedback: (9)

don't flair!

Wheel land

you want to land with some energy to dampen the bounce tendency. i have done it on G2 and G4 and with the kit.

first is takeoff
second is low pass
last is landing, notice the AOA

Joe

CorsairJock

My Feedback: (90)

Hangar 9 has updated their '.40 size trainer' Mustang: now you can add retracts:
http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products...ProdID=HAN4440

Also available in RTF version with 2.4 GHz system:
http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products...ProdID=HAN4425

Even before the update, I considered that to be THE BEST warbird trainer.

But if you really think there are too many Mustangs at the field already (as I do): a good P-47 is great choice. I have the Top Flite version, and it flies and handle much better than my Top Flite Mustang, but I'm thinking the Hangar 9 P-47 would be an even better choice (lighter, even easier to fly):
http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products...ProdID=HAN2975

OR, there is an ever increasing number of electric powered 'foamy warbirds' available, which are very good looking, yet easy and inexpensive to.

There, I've contributed to the monthly (sometimes bi-weekely) 'what is best warbird trainer' thread.

makmov

My Feedback: (1)

Iwonder how there Hellcat comparts to the P-47

ram3500-RCU

My Feedback: (221)

makmov, I'll add a couple comments to my 'other'.

Using the reference 'war bird' loosely, the Park Zone Corsair is a great flier. However, it doesn't in any way IMO prepare one for flying a larger War Bird that is more true to scale. These generally have higher wing loading (detail, retracts, and extra functions all add weight), large wings, and a smaller tail than any aerobatic or sport plane, a fighter like airfoil.

An AT6 was a full scale trainer for war birds, and is also a good model scale trainer for many of the same reasons. It has that war bird shape (big wing, little tail) that dictates a war bird-like take-off and approach procedure, yet is more forgiving than most war birds in flight.

As you experienced, a fighter must be flown to the ground not floated in like an aerobat (like your Ultimate). A higher steeper approach under some throttle with a well timed flair just above the ground works best. Flaps are almost a necessity to break speed on that steep final with giant scale fighters, but the 60 to 90 size usually are fine without them. They don't have the wing loading that most highly detailed and gas powered giants do.

I'll agree that the Top Flight P-47 is a good choice after some stick time with a smaller and lighter trainer like the AT6, but really, unless you get into a more true to scale warbird (both in wing loading and airfoil) like a Zirolli, there a many modified fighters out there that are designed to be stand-off scale yet be easy to fly. These are light and have semi symmetrical or even flat bottom wings.

I'll add that P-51s of most any size are a nose-over waiting to happen. Twins or mulit engines add another dimension of uncertainty and complexity to a beginner. Some planes just were not all that great in full scale and are no better in models like the Stuka and P-39 Aircobra (opinions vary but we are primarily talking about ones first or second war bird). Some flew well with care like the Corsair and Spit, and then some just flew well period like the Zero and P-47. All the rest fit somewhere in between IMO.

CorsairJock

My Feedback: (90)

I had the H-9 Hellcat: probably every bit as good flying as the P-47. In fact: I consider it to be THE BEST FLYING WARBIRD that I have ever owned.
Only issue: the stock rotating retracts. They can be made to work if you are better than average at landing, AND hove smooth runways (grass OK, but not too many bumps and/ or varmit holes), but many, including myself, eventually replace the stock reacts with $omething better.
ALL H-9 retracts are suspect, but at least the non-rotating retracts of the P-47 are more forgiving and cheaper to replace with an upgrade (Robart HD mechanicals cost about $35 a set).

kahloq

Another option to consider would be one of Kyosho's 50 size warbirds like the FW-190, Spitfire, P-40, and ME-109. These all have flaps and retracts. General wingspan of about 57". Use a 4c 56 to 72 and you'll be good to go. They are not expensive( $190 or so for an arf). They are light enough to be forgiving, but not exactly floaters either.

Flak

My Feedback: (1)

I went from an Avastar to a Spitfire. Now, I fly whatever I wish. Every airplane flies a little different than the next. P-51's are easy and predictable, as long as you don't get them too slow. The main thing to remember is that when landing, you are "Flying" the airplane until the engine is off and the aircraft has stopped. No, these are not out of order, as I have allowed for dead stick situations.

makmov

My Feedback: (1)

Thanks for your input, Ialways heard the 51s were hard to flying and like to tip stall easily, and the zero was great flyer. I don't know if anything is any more clear now than before Ipolled. Although Igained another airplane kit:RV-4.

I just need to build something and start flying aeroplanesagain, Istill sim and fly helis as much as Ican. Winter set inearly and we had record cold27 degrees and snow already,which is unusual forDenver. It don'tget that cold in the dead of winter often and doesn't last long.

I have had a major acomplishment this weekend already and built a building bench. 90% complete. I am going with a magnet board. Ijust need my sheet metal, a bunch of magnets and build up some jigs. Alsothe wood for my Zero arrived. It looks fantastic.

tailskid

My Feedback: (34)

Go with H9 .60 sized warbirds....

LDM

My Feedback: (15)

your original question was "best warbird trainer" I agree with Hanger 9 but ...... you need to remember you said warbird trainer . The Hanger 9 original release warbirds -Corsair , P47 , P51 ect have one thing in common light wing loading !!!! so while they give you all the feel and traing in
1)tail dragger
2)rudder training on the ground
3)low wing flight characteristics

They wont give you the high level of awarness need to fly a typical "heavy medal " term sometimes used for a warbird with heavier wing loading !!!
I dont personally like anything heavy , dont care to build that way regardless of the details , but many warbirds come out that way from poor planning or short nose designs that simple end up needing a ton of weigh to balance . As a result , you need to know that slow landings may mean tip stall , snaps and spins ect .
Heavier warbirds need speed on landings and some of other best advice is listed from paldin or his real name "Joe" .
tameing the Top Flight P40 is a great example if handeling a difficult warbird