Fiberglassing the airplane questions.
#26
Senior Member
Thread Starter
RE: Fiberglassing the airplane questions.
Thanks for the tips guys, Its clearer now for sure.
Different question, how easy is it to fix this Lacquer in case like wing tip scratched on concrete?
Oh major question how to do difficult places like the TE and corners?
Thanks
Alex
Different question, how easy is it to fix this Lacquer in case like wing tip scratched on concrete?
Oh major question how to do difficult places like the TE and corners?
Thanks
Alex
#27
My Feedback: (221)
RE: Fiberglassing the airplane questions.
Can't speak to the Lacquer method, but I can tell you that 1/2oz glass conforms very easily into corners, over fillets, and around leading and trailing edges. As noted, with the latter, just get it about half way around and trim when set but before completely cured. It is easier that way. We use a small paint brush to 'dab' it into sharp corners as it sets up.
#28
My Feedback: (2)
RE: Fiberglassing the airplane questions.
The lacquer shouldn't be any more difficult to repair than epoxy or poly resin. FYI you can also use Dope in stead of the other liquids and get the same result. Adding Talc to the dope helps to fill the weave after the first coat is applied at about 50/50. ANY of the methods will do the job. Some are more durable than others to dings etc with epoxy being the most ding resistant.
When laying down the cloth, regardless of what resins you use, get a natural bristle brush and brush the cloth in place before you apply the resin. The static charge will help keep the cloth from moving around.
As mentioned, a small acid brush is used to affix the cloth to wing tips, TE and LE edges etc.
Resist the temptation to have lots of resin on the cloth. You only need enough to fill the weave and no more. The rest will just add weight.
When laying down the cloth, regardless of what resins you use, get a natural bristle brush and brush the cloth in place before you apply the resin. The static charge will help keep the cloth from moving around.
As mentioned, a small acid brush is used to affix the cloth to wing tips, TE and LE edges etc.
Resist the temptation to have lots of resin on the cloth. You only need enough to fill the weave and no more. The rest will just add weight.
#29
My Feedback: (13)
RE: Fiberglassing the airplane questions.
brushing laquer cleans up with laquer thinner or acetone use a natural bristle brush for application.
polyurethane that's water based obviously water clean up, and is applied with a nylon bristle brush,do not use a natural bristle brush it will ruin it.
epoxy is alcohol thinned and clean up,a throw away brush,or natural brush, the alcohol used to clean the brushes affects the nylon bristles and makes them useless.
the water based poly touches up as well as any, I have done repairs on small sections and it blends well after the obglitory sanding session like any other material.
polyurethane that's water based obviously water clean up, and is applied with a nylon bristle brush,do not use a natural bristle brush it will ruin it.
epoxy is alcohol thinned and clean up,a throw away brush,or natural brush, the alcohol used to clean the brushes affects the nylon bristles and makes them useless.
the water based poly touches up as well as any, I have done repairs on small sections and it blends well after the obglitory sanding session like any other material.
#30
My Feedback: (10)
RE: Fiberglassing the airplane questions.
Questions on the Poly......
What kind of paint primer can't I use with it. Specifically is Dupli-color sanding/filling rattle can primer and Klass Kote epoxy paint fine to use with it?
Say I wanted to build my 1/3 scale Cub floats......after I paint or use flite metal will it be water proof like using Wests/Zap?
What kind of paint primer can't I use with it. Specifically is Dupli-color sanding/filling rattle can primer and Klass Kote epoxy paint fine to use with it?
Say I wanted to build my 1/3 scale Cub floats......after I paint or use flite metal will it be water proof like using Wests/Zap?