maser

Larry,

So far so good. Don't forget to add the top skin that comes to the leading edge of the flap. I forgot to do this on mine and had to add it after I had gotten to the primer stage, I had to shim my nose gear down 7/8" of an inch. Depending on how you build yours, it could be more or less. Check it before you get to far along on the fuselage with the gear in place.

I have had several flights on mine and it fly's very stable.

Redtail,

I have not forgotten about you. I'll post the rivet instruction soon.

Boyd.

lkahn4

Hey Guys,
First let me say how sad it was to hear about the passing of Charlie Kellogg, what a great guy and fellow Rc'er. He will be missed by many.
Ready to start sheeting the wing but I have a ?
Boyd, when I look at your photos you show all the cutouts for the landing gear and servo hatches cut before glassing the wing.
So I'm a tad confused (not too hard with my limited ability).
It looks like you cut out the location for the gear doors and then had to cut out the wheel doors after the belly pan was made... am I on the right track?


Thanks
Larry

maser

Larry,

Before I glassed the wing, and before I made the cutouts for the gear door, I laid 6 layers of 6oz glass cloth on top of the wing and belly pan. I used monocote underneath the glass cloth to keep it from sticking. After the layers dried, I made the cutouts for the doors at that time. As to the servo hatches, I made the cutouts prior to glassing the rest of the wing. Look at the file labeled "Main Gear Doors" on the CD I sent to you this will help also.

Hope that helps.


Thanks for the update on Charlie. Charlie had called me to see if I would finish his Tracker for him. He knew at the time he would not be able to complete it due to health reasons. He did not say what was wrong. We were in the process of getting the Tracker shipped, but his health deteriorated to fast. I had talked to his daughter and told her we could figure something out later.

Boyd.

maser

Look at the file labeled "Main Gear Doors" on the CD I sent to you this will help also.

lkahn4

Boyd,
Okay so I guess that means doing the fuselage since I need that to shape the belly pan?
In case we don't connect before Thanksgiving, please have a safe and great day
As for Charlie, I will miss his modeling acumen.

maser

Larry,

Yes, you will have to construct the fusalage in order to do the belly pan.

Have a happy Thanksgiving.

Boyd

lkahn4

Boyd,
Can you please call Charlie's friend Fran... his cell number is 267-481-1365. He will have an update on the tracker


Thanks
Larry

lkahn4

Hi Guys,
So I finally have the skins cut for the top of the wing and ready to glue.
I need some advise, I am thinking of either applying a .010 piece of G10 to the underside of the flap extension of the wing, adding 1/8" triangle stock underneath for strength and then sanding the balsa to the same angle as the flap, this way continuing the airfoil to the flap...
My 2nd thought is to epoxy carbon fiber tape to the bottom and wrap it around to the trailing edge of the wing to prevent the overhang from breaking along with 1/8" triangle stock and then sanding to the angle of the flap.
Here's a pix with the pieces taped in place.

maser

Larry,

I used triangle stock. Then sanded the curve. If you do it this way, sand the curve prior to installation.

Boyd.

lkahn4

Hi Guys,
ARGGHHHH.. I think I really got carried away sanding the flap as you can see in the pix...looks like I will have to make another one. Thankfully I caught it BEFORE doing the same thing to the right hand flap....
Some days it just doesn't pay to get out of bed.
Hope you guys are doing well...
Dean if I had a spare $4,500.00 I'd be on your doorstep tomorrow to pick up the Trojan

Larry

WARBIRDRCER

My Feedback: (22)

Larry, keep in mind, the nice thing about wood vs metal is you can add wood and resand.

maser

Larry,

Once you cover it no one will see.

Boyd

lkahn4

Boyd,
thanks for the encouragement. I was more interested if it would effect the handling. I'm thinking I will add a piece and remand just so it looks close to the same as the good one.
Warbird, good point, it shouldn't take me too long affix another piece and resand.
trains are So Much easier LMAO

larry

butlern

My Feedback: (15)

Larry, Steve is right… add some wood to the flaps and reshape the leading edge so it better aligns with the trailing edge of the wing. Very easy to add more wood and re-shape. Not so easy (or satisfying) to build a whole new flap.

Keep at it, brother! I've seen Boyd's, so I know how great these models can become!

Noah

maser

Larry,

Are you sure trains are easier. If so, I'll get you down here to help with mine, even though I have not touched it in years.

Boyd

lkahn4

Boyd,
"O" Gauge, "G" Scale or HO, I have all 3... let me know and I'll see if the wife will let me make an extended stop over on my way to AZ
Larry

lkahn4

Okay guys,
After grafting 1/16" balsa to the leading edge of the left flap and gentle sanding I finally got the them within 1/16" of each other on the outboard ends and exact on the inboard sides.
That will teach me to pay attention when sanding... Larry

butlern

My Feedback: (15)

once glassed and painted you'll have forgotten all about that flap.

Perfectly done, Larry!

WARBIRDRCER

My Feedback: (22)

I like balsa. Looks great Larry!

lkahn4

thanks guys.. really shows just how much attention you need when sanding

lkahn4

Okay guys,
Need a bit of help.
So the ailerons and flaps are 90% prepped and primed. I attached them to make sure everything still fit and noticed that the top of the flap is higher than the wing extension and wing top.
I'm really confused as I checked the ribs with the 1/16" balsa and the sanded curve of the leading edge and everything seems to be correct...
Boyd, is the rivet pattern the same on the bottom as the top of the flaps and ailerons. I am almost ready to start laying out the panel lines for the rivets...
What do you guys think about using 1/16" striping tape for the panel lines, priming and leaving the tape as the panel lines?

Thanks
Larry

redtail

My Feedback: (15)

Smile, I'm following your build. As you tell me, "Stay with it my friend. Chic

maser

Larry,

I do not have panel lines on my T-28. Just the rivets. I don't remember there being panel lines on the real T-28. I used a pencil and straight edge or tape to draw the lines (take the tape off after you have drawn the line). Then I put the rivets on with the hypo needle with Elmer's white glue. This is all done after priming. Then took denatured alcohol after the rivets had dried to clean the pencil lines.

Boyd

Hircflyer

Check this site.......shows T 28 with many panels which covered the fuslage

http://www.aerotrader.com/listing/19...T28A-103146438

lkahn4

HiRC
Thanks for the info...