DaddySam

My Feedback: (9)

Well I enlarged the panels on the BT plans and test fitted them to my bird. A pretty close fit, close enough that I have the confidence to move ahead with them. The only truly removeable panel will be the starboard rear panel. That's where the radio switches/charge jacks will be, and the air fill. I think I'll use the exterior post sight (at least that's what I think it is) as a switch actuator for the ignition switch, and maybe put the gas tank fill dot on the front top of the nose, in the approximate position of the reserve tank filler hatch.

The other hatches will be built and covered with solartex, and after the fuse is covered, I'll glue them in permanentaly. I am finding that I wish I'd used 1/8 by 1/4" balsa stringers instead of the 5/8 by 1/8 balsa stringers, because it would have been easier to add the 1/8 inch to the tops of all the stringers than to sand away the extra 1/8 inch wherever there is sheeting of some kind. Oh, well. Next time!

DaddySam

My Feedback: (9)

Here's a pic of the port hatch. I intend to back it with 1/64" plywood and then cover it with solartex to assist in preventing warping. Then after the fuse has been covered I'll glue it in permanently

DaddySam

My Feedback: (9)

I've had the Hurris on the back burner for a few weeks. Our club had it's mall show and I needed to get a couple of planes cleaned up for it, and also helped my son a bit with his Fokker D VII (which he won best of show with!). Then I "had" to re-trim an ARF Yak before flying season takes hold. I am doing some workshop cleaning and should be back to posting some progress soon. The pics are of my son's Fokker and the before/after of my Yak.

DaddySam

My Feedback: (9)

Working on the starboard hatches today. If the weather breaks my older son and I have been invited to fly full scale in a Vtail Beechcraft, so we'll see how much I get done. I have put together the rear starboard radio access hatch and am reinforcing it with 1/64 ply to hopefully avoid warping with it is covered. First pic is the framework with glue ready for the ply, second is the ply weighted down with old scuba weights.
Sam

DaddySam

My Feedback: (9)

Rear hatch in place. Covering will wait until the fuse is covered so I can size the hatch to accomodate the thickness of the covering material. I'll work out the securement (just saw that word the other day and have been waiting to use it - sort of like when "Nexus" came along!). I'm leaning toward having two dowels on the underside and two rare earth magnets on the top corners, or I may make some Dzus fastener type of arrangement.
Sam

DaddySam

My Feedback: (9)

A whoopsie. The BT drawings do not place the stringers at the exact same place as the Vailly plans so I replaced the stringers to match the rest of the airframe.

DaddySam

My Feedback: (9)

Other than final fitting and fastening, the first fuse is pretty close to setting aside to bring the second fuse up to the same point, then I think onward to the center section. Here are the starboard hatches. I think the second fuse will go smoother!

DaddySam

My Feedback: (9)

It was pointed out that the "doghouse" does not continue the upward slope but levels off. I've lowered the front of the doghouse about 1/4 inch and resheeted. I will be working on the front portion next.

glazier808

My Feedback: (1)

Must be fun working on two at the same time, seems smart really

One question tho , has one plane become your favorite of the two?

Casey

DaddySam

My Feedback: (9)

Hi Casey,
Interesting question. Initially I was sort of comparing the two as one was cut by Jessie at Laserlizard and the other by PCK. But now I feel that they are pretty evenly matched. The PCK kit used a solid 3/4" ply firewall and the LL kit uses a laminated firewall that makes the overall weight of the plane heavier. But I think that since the weight is on the firewall it will mean that the PCK kit will need a few ounces less lead to balance. I suspect that once I get into the retracts I may favor one plane over the other ,but I'm keeping an open mind.
Your ME109 is simply fantastic, by the way!
Sam

DaddySam

My Feedback: (9)

I can't believe I've been away from the build for over two months! But (knock on wood) all my hobby-related distractions I think are done. It took me awhile to figure out where I left off. I decided to start back with the "doghouse". I made the former that fits in front of the Original former and will need to taper in the sides to get the effect I want. I also wanted to use a single sheet of balsa to extend from the back of the doghouse over the gap to the new former. Once the new former is sheeted in I'll make the cutouts for the harness straps.

DaddySam

My Feedback: (9)

A bit more work on the doghouse...

glazier808

My Feedback: (1)

Looking good!

Casey

plati

Hi everybodies!

I'm italian modeller and I have a question about the weight 1/4 Scale Hurricane model - 118 " wingspan (if someone can reply me):

I'm posting in this thread because I think that right site.
I have build an 1/4 scale Hurricane from Brian Taylor unlarged plans.
I need, if it's possible to know the total weight of the Yours 1/4 scale models (118 " wingspan) and in particularly the separetes weights of wings (with retracts) and of the fusolage.

I need this info to comparate with my model, in order to understand in which parts of my model is better work to lighten it.

Sorry for my bad english.
Thanks!
Marcello

DaddySam

My Feedback: (9)

Marcello I'm sorry I don'thave any helpful information for you. Perhaps Richard Rawle or John Clark would have some information regarding a 1/4 scale Hurricane.

DaddySam

My Feedback: (9)

I'm anxious to move on to the wings so I can see how the landing gear and flaps are going to work out. But first I wanted to add the ventral fin to the fuse and mod the former in the cockpit (the doghouse). To save some weight I made the ventral fin out of 1/16" balsa instead of using a solid peice of 1/4. I had to cover the bottom of the rear fuse before attaching the ventral fins. Makes me feel like I can see some progress!

plati

Thanks DaddySam for answer me.
And congratulation for your great job!

Marcello

DaddySam

My Feedback: (9)

My covering iron died so now its on to the center section. I have two types: the PCK and the Lazer Lizard. the LL has the cutouts for the retracts and bearers already done, so I will use those for the Sierra retracts. The PCK ribs are blanks so I think this is where I will try for some "blending" with the BT design. I've blown up the BT plans and the rib spacing and contours are almost an exact match. I traced the UC bearers and cutouts from both designs on the PCK ribs so you can see the slight difference in position. I believe that this will help the non-rotating Shindin retracts fit better. Any input on this idea?
Sam

DaddySam

My Feedback: (9)

I've almost got the nerve up to cut the holes for the gear bearers but I'm doing some last minute checks. The problem is that there is no way I can bend the aluminum strut back 8.5 degrees to bring it back to the scale forward rake. The strut is about 3/4" in diameter and I'm sure it would weaken it if I put it in a vise and hit it with a sledge hammer. So the decision I have to make is would I rather have a strut cover that is parallel to the tire when down or flush with the wing when up. The alternative is to increase the pintle angle which would put the strut forward when extended, perhaps by as much as an inch. That amount of rake forward would be noticeable, but I also suspect the strut cover would make it less noticeable. I suspect I will compromise and have some rake forward.

As soon as I have decided on the cuts I'll post some pix.

Sam

WhiteRook

My Feedback: (38)

i'm building a tempest MKV and i think the tail wheel fork you show in your build will fit. did the plastic nose gear mount come with it
, from sierra ? and what was the part number?



tally ho

P40N

Hi Sam, A mate at our flying club got around the non rotating retract / leg cover alignment problem by making the leg covers in flexible fibreglass sheet. The covers are aligned when the wheels are down and flex to flush when the wheels are retracted. A bit agricultural but works fine.
Keep at it....
Cheers
Stan

LA7flier

My Feedback: (1)

Daddy,
Daryl at sierra makes rotating retracts for the vailly hurricane...they actually rotate back about 9 degrees as they retract solving the problem you are struggling with. I have them in my vailly hurricane (which is gathering dust in the rafters) and they work as advertised.

dubs1946

Hi Stan, I managed to get 4 flights on Wednesday at the field with the Hurricane, it was just dry enough i had a look at the weather forecast and could see that the week-end weather would be no good for flying. I got 4 good flights in and the engine is working great not a hiccup so far but i still have trouble trusting it and bringing the aircraft low in case it dead sticks again.
I managed to damage one of my "agricultural" glass fiber wheel covers so i will now leave the bottom half that attaches to the wheels and rides up with the leg movement off and attach them on high days and holidays only, otherwise the way i am landing at the moment i will be forever repairing them.
The last flight on Wednesday i nearly landed with the wheels up i forgot to put them down! i saw it when it was 6 feet of the deck and just managed to get them down in time.
10 Flights so far with the new wing and i am painting it now.
I have run out of excuses not to. I am going for invasion stripes to make it more visible, hopefully it will last until the Spring scale day.
PS.Its time to fly yours with the new tailplane It must be getting dusty in your workshop or have you sold it to David?.
I can now concentrate on my T/F P47 with the 3W85 in one flight so far and its ready for further flight testing.This is a real rocket ship and makes me nervous.
Dave.

DaddySam

My Feedback: (9)

Thanks for the replies guys! LA7, I have a pair of Darrells' for one of my Hurri's and I'm sure they'll fit and work great. I am hoping to be able to come up with a fix for my other gear, which is from Lenny at Shindin. I've been distracted again but Lenny and I are communicating about a possible fix or partial fix. I just have to lay out some angles and take some pictures but I've been doing other things. When my work bench is clear I'll put together one center section with Darrell's gear and then tinker with the Shindin gear.
Keep those comments coming! Dubs, what are the specs on your plane? Stan, do you think you'll be testing out your enlarged tail plane anytime soon?
Sam

P40N

Hi Sam, I expect to test fly again in the week preceding the 20th November Scale comp at WRCS, I dont have high expectations but the additions of 25mm to each side of the stab plus the increased elevator throws should help. I think that the plane is just too heavy with that great block of lead up in its nose. The increase in stab and elevator span sound drastic from a scale point of view but in actual fact I think it would take a sharp judge to pick up on it as the profile remains unchanged.

I intend to enter the Hurricane, a Ziroli P40 and an 82" DHC Chipmunk in the WRCS Spring Scale Comp and plan to have the Hurricane and the P40 in the air at the same time if the Hurri survives the test flying... We'll see..

Mick Reeves is selling retracts for his 110" Hurricane and you can get an insight to the various angles from his videos. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8ZgL1HfVXvs It looks to me as if the leg pivot pin is at the retracted leg angle.

Keep chipping away at your great project, we all look forward to the day when you have a grin from ear to ear after successful first flights.