Icaro62

[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-O9UWdOR4Q0[/youtube]
<span class="description">Movement of electric retracts Messerschmitt Bf 108 Taifun bought in www.piccoleali.it </span>that i installed

mike early

Where'd you get the retracts? You might consider a servo-slower to slow them down, if you wish.

Kostas1

Icaro hello from Greece !

The retracts you used,
have there own electric mechanism to bring them up/down ?
So,
you don't need a retract servo???

I am interested in buying the VQ HURRICANE ARF 60...do you have any experience with this model ?

Konstantinos

CorsairJock

My Feedback: (90)

Those look like the stock mechanisms, with a coat of paint applied, and RoboStruts (or simular) installed. My guess: it's not a retract servo, not at that speed.

Icaro62

Hello everyone! I apologize for the silence, but I had problems with the PC. Soon I try to answer the questions ...

Icaro62

@ CorsairJock
The servo is retractable, with 180 &deg; movement.
Is'the stock the mechanisms by applying these legs http://www.piccoleali.it/prodotto-14...zate-P-40.aspx
@ Kostas1 Hello from 'Italy!
As noted above, are supplied with mounting box and the mechanism is that of a servo.
Unfortunately I have no experience of the 'VQ HURRICANE ARF 60. I saw the box but I have not mounted. If you need information, I ask the Italian importer where I do my shopping that lives nearby.
Mike @ Do you think this servo can give problems? The slower movement would be more realistic...

I had to adapt the attack of the cover to the legs. What do you think? Can work?

Icaro62

Sorry.
this is the correct photo 's interior. <qtlbar style="padding: 0pt; display: inline; text-align: left; line-height: 100%; background-color: rgb(236, 236, 236); -moz-border-radius-topleft: 3px; -moz-border-radius-topright: 3px; -moz-border-radius-bottomright: 3px; -moz-border-radius-bottomleft: 3px; cursor: pointer; z-index: 999; left: 233px; top: 37px; opacity: 0.9;" dir="ltr" id="qtlbar">&lt;iframe style="border: 1px solid rgb(236, 236, 236); display: none; background-color: white;" src="" id="qtlframe"></iframe&gt;</qtlbar>

Icaro62

Can you suggest where to buy a servo slower?

CorsairJock

My Feedback: (90)

A retract servo cannot be slowed down. However, if you were to install a high torque, low profile PROPORTIONAL servo instead of a "retract servo", such as this one:
http://www.bphobbies.com/view.asp?id...85&pid=W776484

you could slow it down by using a device such as this:
http://www.dionysusdesign.com/produc...roducts_id/164

Here is an example:
[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t324hgGswi0[/youtube]

Oberst

I have a couple of these that work real well and they have a little adjustment screw so you can adjust the speed that you want. I have one ready for the flaps for this bird.



http://www.hobby-lobby.com/servo_slo..._2157_prd1.htm

I have a brand new JR- NES791 Low Profile Retract Servo ready to be used. The speed is acceptable, so I'm going to use it.


I'm not going to use Digital Servo's because I have a bunch of basic JR 537 & JR ST47 servo's that are begging to be used. I have a JR Propo 4N600 4.8 600mAh battery for my RS600 Receiver, but I'm afraid my Retract Servo might drain the battery excessively. Any recommendations on the battery choice CorsairJock?


I haven't decided what engine size I'm going to use. I like to try a 4-stroke, but I don't know too much about them. Also I hope the cowl is big enough that I can hide most of the engine what ever I decide to use.

My airplane hasn't arrived yet at my LHS. I should get it this week, I E-mailed my LHS for a ETA on it. I had to put my Seagull Extra 260 .90 back on the work bench a few days ago, it decided to wrinkle bad because I believe that the forced air heating unit in the house is the culprit. Once I'm done with all that Ironing, then my 108 will be next on the table.

I notice that the Iron Crosses on the bottom of the wings isn't complete because of the Servo Covers. Does the kit come with the decal for the missing part of the cross? Or do I have to buy or make that decal myself to make it more realistic?

Looking good people! keep the pics and build comments coming!

Pete

Oberst

I just got the E-mail from my LHS, they wrote that my Me-108 is on its way and the ETA is Thursday January 20th! I can hardly wait! [sm=spinnyeyes.gif]


Pete

Icaro62

I did not know the slow down module and I find them very interesting. As for the decals of Iron Crosses, I confirm that those are provided with the box. As for the battery, I would use a lipo with bec.

CorsairJock

My Feedback: (90)

My 1st warbird, and 1st plane with retracts was a DynaFite FunScale 40 Corsair that I added Hobbico mechanical rotating retracts to. Rx battery pack was a 5cell 600 mAH NiCad pack, with 5.5 v regulator. I could easily get 6 flights, 10 minute flites per charge, with several touch and goes thrown in for a total of about a dozen cyles of the retracts per charge. I have owned several warbirds with mechnical retracts since then, and most of them have bettry packs of 1000 mAh or less, even on planes with flaps.

Bottom line: I would be comfortable with a pack in the 1000 mAH range, and would probably fly it 4 times, then take it home and test the batteies for remaining capacity. I'm betteing that you can probably get 6 flights, with mAH to spare. Your 600 mAH pack should be good for a few flight (maybe 3?), then take it home and dischager test it. I'm thinking flaps put more drain on a battery pack than retracts do (retracts only have to work a few seconds per flight).

In my case, since this one will be electric powered: I too will use a BEC (actually, a UBEC), and will not need an Rx battery pack.

As for 4 stroke power: I once again will recommend the Saito .82 with a 14 x 7 prop.

Progress on mine is slow (working 7 days a week + daily O.T), I did get the aileron servos installed, connected, and completely setup. Hope to do the same with the flap servos today.
BTW: I like doing these thing BEFORE I join the wings together, as it is easier to handle the wing halves than a full wing.

Oberst

Thanks CorsairJock, I will take that advice!

I have a Sanyo 1000 mAH 4.8 in my Extra, and I flew it 6 times with 10.6 volts to spare on my radio at the S.T.A.R.S show in Cicero, NY last August.

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_9077908/tm.htm


Sounds right to me, Ill pick up another Sanyo or JR 1000 mAH 4.8 when I pick up my plane next Friday. Forgive me for being a little off topic, I feel your pain CorsairJock.

I only work 4 days a week for Dick's Sporting Goods during the winter months. I'm a Bike Tech and went to school through Raleigh\ Diamondback and became a Certified Tech. When the bike season starts I work about 40+ as well, then drive 45 miles each way to work, then come home to chores.

I look at my planes that need work on my bench and I know if I tried to get some work done on the plane, I would make mistakes because I'm so tired! When I finally get a day off on Sundays all I want to do is sleep and fly in the summer months. My Hanger 9 Fokker took me 7 months to complete enough to fly. [:@]

So I try to get all my building done during the winter months if I can, so when I see the the first sign of spring I'm ready!



Thanks for the info Icaro62.

Pete

CorsairJock

My Feedback: (90)

Finally got the flap servos installed, connected, and set-up with the radio: MAN, that was more of a job than I anticipated.

NOTE TO ALL: You WILL need to put a bend in the flap linkage rods in order to install them, there is no way around it if you want to use the method shown in the plans.

But, it's done, and now working on the landing gear.

I Will use the stock mechanisms, but will install #650 RoboStruts, AND some nice wheels from Top Flite.

The wheels are replacement wheels for the Top Flite AT-6 ARF. They are slightly larger diameter than the stock wheels (about 3 1/4" vs. 3"), yet slimmer, and pretty good looking, don't ya think?

Only issue is the diameter of the axle holes is about 5 mm, meaning I will either have to install larger axels OR install bushings (brass tubing works fine) in the wheels.

Here is Tower web-site info on them:
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXVCJ1&P=Z

jayc73

HAs anyone gotten to the engine mount? I mounted mine sideways as instructed in the manual. It sticks WAY to far out, I think inverted is the way to go.

Oberst

I should have my plane in about 3 days! By looking at some of the photo's it looks like it needs a funky bend in the flap linkage rods since it's all inside the wing. I like the wheels CorsairJock.

I have a few Great Planes, Kyosho Axles laying around that might fit those wheels. But if I didn't, I'd cut some wheel sleeves out of brass or copper to make it fit. It would make a good wheel bearing don't ya think?

Jayc73, I have to look at the plane to decide. On a lot of ARF aircraft I've built in the past I had to re-engineer things to make things work or look right. If I don't like the way it looks I'd go inverted. I'm one of those people, that like to hide the engine much as possible. It's a bad habbit!

From what I've read, Just make sure your Carb is aligned correctly according to the Glow Tank Stopper. I've never had to invert a glow engine, so some one please chime in how to do it properly.

I was thinking of using a Pitts Muffler for my engine if I go 2- Stroke. I'll start planing better when I get to study the plane.


Pete

sj3cub

My Feedback: (9)

I flew one of these 7/8 years ago. I powered mine with a Saito .72, and as far as scale goes, it was way overpowered. I like the new German covering scheme.

Oberst

I got the phone call last Tuesday and my Bf-108 just arrived at my LHS. I'll be picking it up tommoro afternoon.[sm=thumbs_up.gif] I finally decided what engine I want to use. It's the Saito 62A-AAC.





I like the fact that it's the same size as the .52. I think that's good due to the 108 having a narrow Cowl, I don't want a lot of engine sticking out. Plus, it can swing the 11x7 thru 13x7 Prop. After engine break-in I'll be swinging a 14x5 or 14x6 to make the prop size more scale. I feel it is time for me to move up to the 4 Stroke, and get away from the 2- Strokes for a change.

Time to advance!

I heard that the Saito is the best in 4- Strokes, not only people from my club and what I read at RCU, but also from my LHS owner.

I was guessing that the .72 was too big for this bird, but from what little I do know, I could swing a more scale prop with no problem. I just want to hide most of the engine without going electric. That Saito sound is the perfect sound for a Warbird. JMHO

CorsairJock,

I took your suggestion. I knew I wanted a 1000mAh but after some discussion with my LHS owner I decided this was really good, and the price was fantastic!



http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXNRH6&P=ML

So how's the build going along guys, everything going OK?

Pete

Oberst

Got the bird yesterday!




I was really impressed with the quality and detail. Not one wrinkle in the covering and no blemishes! The only thing I noticed so far that I didn't like ( but no big deal ) is the lack of glue in some critical areas like the firewall. Check all the joints people![X(]


I'll be studing the manual for a while to see if I can improve a few things. I'll start the build next week.[8D]


Pete

Oberst

How's the build going so far people? I'm still ordering stuff for this bird, haven't started the build yet. I will be ordering the Electric Retracts for this. They are a bit pricey, but well worth it. I just don't trust Mechanical Retracts. After looking at the manual I just got a bad feeling about the retract design. I have to listen to that small voice in my head. [&:][sm=spinnyeyes.gif]

http://www.lado-tech.net/products.php?cat=5

Pete

CorsairJock

My Feedback: (90)

I hope you are not counting on getting a set of Lado's. If so, it sounds as if it will be a very long wait for you, as that company is experiencing many problems with production and delivery of units to it's customers.

My suggestion: find another set of retracts.

BTW: the gap between the mounting rails is to little to allow the use of Robarts. Dave Brown units could be used with some mocifications tho. I'm reluctantly sticking with the stock ones (for now, anyway). Should have an update on mine by the end of this week (1st weekend in Feb).
I have come to the realization that the included gear doors are not designed to be used with the retracts (they are for fixed gear), and mounting ANY gear doors on retracts will pose some problems. difficulties. I intend to try, nontheless.

jayc73

The gear setup is pretty much the same as on my Hangar 9 Spitfire. It seems pretty conventional. I don't see a problem with reliability.

telejojo

Flew mine about 2 weeks ago with a YS 91 and handled real well only problem was the gear.I have a lot of problems with mech. gear.

Oberst

That's what the little voices in my head are warning me about. [sm=spinnyeyes.gif]

Yes CorsairJock, I'm getting the Lado's. I just E-mailed them a letter asking them a few questions.

I don't mind waiting if I have to, I have a month wait for my struts from Global anyway.

I would use the stock mechanical retracts if they didn't have a bad tendancy of folding up on the landings. I suspect that the Round Servo Armature that comes with the Retract Servo's might be too short. They need more than 1" in diameter. Guess I would have to make sure the Push Rods pushes and pulls far enough to lock the Mechanical Retract every time if I were to use them. But I'm not sure if the failures have had anything to do with not making sure they lock properly.

I guess what I'm saying is I don't want the hassel if they decide to fail on me, I'm sure all of you can understand.

I have been around for a little while and I heard there is a waiting issue with the Lado Company. Other than that, what I read and heard, they do make good products and is well worth the wait. I'm suprised you don't have any in your Warbirds CorsairJock? Do all your Warbirds have the Mechanical Retracts?

I ordered a few Decals, I'm basing mine on what it probably looked in WWII. I wish I could find more info on the plane andwhat it looked like during the war. I'm guessing it looks like what it does today minus the swastika.


Pete