jet22b

Thanks, Sandyt!! The gear was on its way down. I don't know why the left main is the first to go up and the last one to come down, but, it was a cool shot!!!

Sonny
aka
jet22b

RBean

I understand the ARF flys better than most of the kit built TF 60 size P-40s. Don't know why. Finally got my kit built sorted out with a DLE 20. In a stall with gear and flaps down it would snap roll to the left and head straight down. I put a stall strip on the right wing, it stalls were then gentlier and straight ahead, more or less. But then on a pull up out of loop or dive, it would roll to right requiring left rudder to correct. Finally removed about half the stall strip, now only falls off slightly to left, no snap roll and just barely goes right in pull out. Much better. Landing and take offs are not too bad. The DLE 20 has plenty of power even with a three blade prop. At 12 lbs its a bit heavy but does ok.

Rotten40851

My Feedback: (2)

Yes, this was a kit that I got about 60% built due to an elder member of my club passing on. Most of the airframe was built but I had to do someminor alterations and all the glass and finish work. I just got back from a week in the Bahama's and will reassemble her today. hopefully I will get her up this week and will let you know how she does. Thanks, John

Aluminum Overcast

Finally, the promised video....be sure to watch in 1080P if you can. Recorded in dolby 5.1. Enjoy!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n7IxMqohNTU

jet22b

A.O:
Thanks for sharing the video!!! You are so right, the Top Flite P-40 Warhawk is a joy to fly. My baby is pack away for the winter. Here in the Great Northwest for the next four months we will have rain, high winds and snow. So flying for me has come to a end.[&o][&o] I just may pickup another P-40 for the winter build.
Again, thanks for sharing the vid!! I did enjoy it!!!

Sonny
aka
jet22b

Johnny_Zero

My Feedback: (44)

Sweet video.

louie525

My Feedback: (1)

Why did Tower Hobbies raise the price on the Top Flite P-40 .60 ARF from $299 to $349? None of the other ARF's went up in price? I could see if they ran out of stock but I believe the inventory levels were fine even the last week of 2011? In December they had it for $299 with free shipping. If you used a discount code you could have saved another $30 and bought one for $270. Since I live in Illinois I have to pay tax as well. I was going to buy one but I may wait for another deal from Tower. I planned on using the saving towards the retracts! You snooze you lose!

Lifer

My Feedback: (1)

A.O.,

Any hope of detailing the method used to reinforce the canopy so that it stays intact while in the open position. It adds a nice touch to the plane!

P-40 DRIVER

The P-40 started out at 399.95, dropped to 349.95, then 299.95, now back to 349.95. ]If you keep track of Tower's arf prices , they very quite a bit depending if they are selling or not.

jet22b

P-40 DRIVER,
You are right about Tower Hobbies prices.
Back in Feb of last year, I paid $349.95 for my Top Flite P-40 ARF, but, I am a member of the Super Saver Club, so I could take $50.00 of the price and got it for $299.95 and free shipping!!! Just today I was at my local hobby shop and I saw the price of fuel creeping back up!!!
Sonny
aka
jet22b

Ron101

My Feedback: (22)

Just noticed that video, nice job... great flying, editing, filming, music.
I've been working on videos and it's harder than it looks... I wish I could film and fly at the same time..lol

anyway, nice job

Aluminum Overcast

Sorry in advance for the long reply!

Thanks for the comments on the video guys. Your right, not easy to shoot these little fast moving things...especially in the failing light of day as the AF sensor gets lost and the recording sensor gets so loaded with artifacts giving that blotchy or grainy look. I'm looking to upgrade my cam equipment this year to something on a much higher pro level. This cam I own now is a great HD cam but lacks some of the features I would like, faster interchangeable lens and AF and larger more sensitive to light sensor with greater dynamic rang (the moon would have detail as it had in person not blown out like on the vid). The new Dslrs would work very well here. Didn't help my Buddy who was shooting it has little experience with this camera and we were flying at the other end of the field from where he was shooting. Gave some nice perspective though as we flew towards and away from him and limited the sound of our voices as Tim and I were working our maneuvers. From our position we were flying right into the moon. On the vid it shows near misses. Still cool though! I did have to add some additional music as there were a few people having discussions under the pavilion nearby the cam position and the cam mic picked that up too. Even though I have and use final cut pro I use imovie on the mac more and more for quick edits. I do have some really nice footage I shot later in the season to cut in a while..excellent group flying and closeups! I just can't get time to cut it together yet...


The canopy was a bit of a test. You know, you have a theoretical understanding of how to do it but will it hold under use? The Canopy was the stock included in the kit. I did add some additional plastic strips to thicken and add strength to the lower sliding portion of the canopy. There are some very thin magnets that are also embedded at the front and rear of this sliding section that coincide with other imbedded magnets in the fuse in the open and closed position to give a little more "stay put" incentive to the sliding center section. there is also a thin lip (same thin plastic) along the front of the center sliding section that fits tight under the front canopy in the closed position. center canopy section is held on the fuse by 4 tiny screws that screw into small blocks traveling inside the embedded brass track in the fuse. This track is simply a rectangular (cross section) section of brass that has been slotted down the center of 1 side. The Blocks inside this track are simply sections of the same shape brass rod. Only smaller and the hollow center has been filled with J.B Weld to give the screws something more to hold onto. The screws themselves are cut to just go through the blocks and hit the back part of the track adding a bit more friction. The screws have some thread lock on them to keep them from loosening under engine vibration and air buffeting. So far, all this is working well. No signs of fatigue or failure. There are a few signs of rubbing though. The canopy does not stay quite closed when the engine is running. It vibrates open a bout a quarter inch. If I could I think stronger (or more along the length) magnets would fix this but there just is not enough room there for larger magnets and I think I'm going to make a rearview mirror like the full scale which will allow another magnet setup up there. I think this will be the cure and add some more detail.


My P40 update:
Winter has been here for some time in Michigan so the last time we flew warbirds was early november. Last flight for our group was a cool but amazingly calm afternoon. We flew 4 or 5 flights but on the last flight we were having just too much fun and we all stayed up a bit too long. I called landing but there was a P51 on final so I cut it short and turned around for another line up. With flaps deployed gear down and power cut back a bit I was making my final turn when I ran out of gas 40 feet up. No big deal except for the 30 foot tall trees I had to try and clear with hardly no forward speed and no time to retract and then redeploy flaps and gear. Screwed! I walked it down the wings wagging from side to side in a stall and me working everything from ailerons to full rudder to keep her threading through a small v in the tree line. I did okay but 1 ten foot tree grabbed her tail causing her to fall back down along the narrow trunk grappled by small branches. Fuse was fine but the main wing trailing edge and wing top were severely damaged along with both ailerons. Flap was broken along the entire length. Sorry, I took no pics of the damage but the landing attempt is on video. Some time has passed and I have rebuilt it better than before using the original parts. Along the way I cut the covering I had to do along panel lines the full scale has and will further add rivets and weathering. Goes back to a post I made a while back about rebuilding and the challenge and satisfaction of accomplishment... Her are a few pics:

Lifer

My Feedback: (1)

A.O.,

Thank you for the details. Sorry about the damage to your plane. Any thought of a little chainsaw time at your field this winter?

Aluminum Overcast

Yes, we are trying to do some more of that. However Our filed is on State Park property and as such at the discretion of the local DNR. We are working with a new DNR officer. Our field is 500X250. You can see how, in this ariel photo (2002 image) we are trying to push the approaches out and clear of at least tall trees.

raptureboy

They were on sale thats why it was at 299.99 I bought mine on 12/30 and with the $50 off coupon final price 249.99 It came yesterday and it looks real good with just the usal wrinkles in the covering. When you consider a kit is $170 and you add in the monokote and all the time even at $300 it's still a good buy for a quality plane. I have a new DLE 20 to go in her and Robart 615's and digital servo's.

doctorfixjet

Just acquired a used evolution 26gt gasser..... Not sure what airframe to drop her in.... I was thinking of dropping her in the P-40 since the OS 95 is barely enough power, freeing up the OS for something else..... What do u guys think? Any ideas suggestions???

raptureboy

26 Gt should be fine. Plenty of power, although the DLE 20 is an amazing little engine and pulls my 13lb Pt-17 biplane around with no problems. For any one needing more info on prop sizes etc.. on the DLE go to the gas forum and check out the thread for it. For 2 blade props the Xoar or Vess 17x6 seems to be the best.

CorsairJock

My Feedback: (90)

Just 'scored' a NIB model for $200 at a swap meet, so deal me in. I'll review all previous threads later, to check out the issues you guys may have encountered, Mine will definately be electric powered, with one of my tried and true AXI 4130/20 swinging a 2 blade 17 x 10 on 6S LiPo. Works for my Mustang, sure to work on this one as well.
I wonder if a 3 blade spinner is available? Undecided on retracts yet (which ones), I have a few options, son't intend to invest any money as I already have a few choices.

Discovered an alternate scheme, which will not require removing the shark mouth, nor any recovering. It WOULD need the spinner painted tho:

m3_express

CJ,

I made mine electric as well... Fly's great. Had to add some nose weight though. I'm currently flying it with the stock spinner and APC 15x10 prop. However, I have a DB 3-blade spinner, which looks a little more scale than the stock spinner. I plan to swap out the motor for a lower kv and use the 3-blade spinner with a Master Airscrew 16x10 prop.

My only gripe is I went with the Robart 615's.... I was trying to get the Sierra Giant units but after trying to get a response from SG for over two months, I gave up on them.

hk

LDM

My Feedback: (15)

CJ , Hobby King sells black carbon fiber spinners that are black and are close in the "cone shape" of the P40 and they are uncut , I have one for my 73" CMP

CorsairJock

My Feedback: (90)

Thanks for replies, LDM & m3_express. It looks like my servo inventory is getting low, so I was intending to check out Hobby King anyway, I'll look for that uncut spinner. Hobby King also sells some nice 3 blade props, lightweight and very efficient. They have the pointed tips (for efficiency) but I'll trade thast off for having a 3 blade. Thinking smaller tho, my H-9 Corsair became somewhat of a bear with a 15" 3 blade: difficult to turn right after takeoffs. We'll see.

One thing I fell in love with is those WHEELS: almost 4" diameter and very narrow profile. Add the hub cap s and, ...I FINALLY FOUND THE PERFECT WHEELS for my Jemco Dauntless! Not to mention maybe a few other models.

CorsairJock

My Feedback: (90)

Well, read all the posts, seems to be no major issues except possibility of having to add nose weight: I will do everything I can to avoid that!

Ordered additional documentation: "American Volunteer Group Colours and Markings (Osprey Aircraft of the Aces No 41)", so I can come up with a slightly different (yet authentic) scheme on mine.

FLAPS: Got the iron out to remove ther wrinkles, wasn't too bad except for the flaps. They appear to be a molded piece of plastic bonded to some balsa, and covered on the balsa side with Monokote. Tried to iron out the wrinkles and it does exactly what I expected it to do: curled the piece. The flaps now have a defininate curve in them, with now way I can think of to undo since the covering is on one side only. Thinking of removing the covering, then the balsa, then laminate some G-10 to the bottom side, smooth it to shape, and PAINT it rather than cover it. Doing so might add a little wieght to them, but would look MUCH better, and never have to worry about wrinkles again.
Whadaya think?

Spinners: Also, looked at spinners at Hobby King: found an uncut composite one for the price of a Dave Brown/ Vortec one, AND a cut (for 3 blade) aluminum one for about $12. The alum one appears to have more correct shape than stock one, but don't know for sure.

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbycity/s...dproduct=10180

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbycity/s...dproduct=14803

mike early

Love that scheme, CorsairJock. Good thing about electric is no rubber starter cones rubbing off the paint on the spinner.

It is a shame that neither Dave Brown or Tru-Turn make an FAI spinner 4" in diameter. I forgot what spinner I went with, maybe the vortech anodized.

raptureboy

I had the same problem with the flaps. I fixed it by gently heating the plastic side with the heat gun and then laying the trailing edge on a table and then applying gentle pressure to the leading edge, bending the flap back in the opposite direction of the warp. It also helps to take out most of the wrinkles.

CorsairJock

My Feedback: (90)

Retract Choices, I have several types on hand to choose from:

Lado: I have 2 sets, (1) the orginal type, which are installed in my H9 Corsair, and (2) the ones that have mounting plates on the bottom/ flush with bottom of retract unit, for mounting in Top Flite warbirds. This set is setup for 3/16" dia. struts. All that said, the second set would be the logical choice, since they are not currently installed in anything, they accept 3/16" strut wires, and they have more conventional mounting. Now the bad news: they are too long. To make them fit, I would either have to find a way to move them farther forward, OR cut into the lower wing spar. Additionally, they operate just plain TOO SLOW. That all said, I have decided against them for this project.

CenturyJet (for Corsair 60): Thought about these too, but really not wanting to use air. Biggest factor tho: like the Lados, they retract exactly 90 deg, rotate exactly 90 deg. It is the latter that I just didn't like, because they NEED to rotate more than 90 degree in order for the wheels to be somewhat flush in a wing with several degrees of dihedrawl. Tried them out for fit: a hole would need to be cut BETWEEN the spars for the cylinder, but not really a big deal IMO.

Robart #615: I have several sets, I really like the way they retract slightly more than 90 deg (wheel can be farther ahead of CG, AND RoboStruts perform better), AND rotate slightly more than 90 deg. But, like I said: trying to avoid air. As for durability: I have modified mine in the past, and they have proven to be vastly superior to un-modified units. Thought about trying to modify them, to make them mechanical, BUT, I have one more option, ...

Robart #102: These are the long discontinued mechanical rotating retracts, originally designed for the 'red box' Corsair. They are simular to the 615s, but different: they do not use the stamped metal "links", or 'scissors' as some call them. Instead, they utilize different mechanics using plastic components, which are vastly more durable than the "links" used in the 615s. On the negative side: they only come with 5/32" strut wires. BUT, I have successfully modified a set to use 3/16" strut wires, and installed them in my Hangar 9 Hellcat. Coupled up with #650 RoboStruts, they make a very durable, yet shock absorbing/ forgiving set of retracts. The most difficult part is connecting to a servo. In this case, I will connecting each unit to a low profile, hi torque digital proportional metal geared servo located in the wheel well. I have already begun removing some of the wheel wells (will post pics when completed), the servo will still stick out about 3/16", but it looks like there will still be clearance for the wheels (since they are so narrow). The beauty of using the servo type metioned: they can be set up to operate at different speeds, allowing for VERY realistic looking operation. The best of all worlds, IMO.

My choices are limited to the above mentioned, because I have them all in my inventory, not really wanting to buy another set with so many choices. And even if I did: experience has taught me that anything less than 3/16" strut wires on a model this heavy jst isn't worth the frustration.