TSky28

My Feedback: (3)

Exhaust heat. I was thinking about the braided hose and I think I'll give it a shot.


Good tips fellas.

jet22b

Hey Guys;
I have been in the background reading the post on the new Top Flite P-40 60 size ARF. Right now I have two planes on the work table. A Hangar 9 Spitfire 60 ARF and the Top Flite P-51 60 ARF, so the P-40 is on the top shelf in the workshop. When I do get to her, I too will go with the DLE 20 motor. Looking at the pictures that people have post, tell me I will like this setup!!
Thanks again guys for all the pictures and good tips!!!

Sonny
aka
jet22b

mimoore67

My Feedback: (51)

I think you'll like the gas engine set up! The biggest thing for me is keeping as much of the engine cowled as possible. I had a G20 years ago and I really like the gas set up. Fuel was cheap, but the draw back was hauling it around in the car. I would investigating finding out who makes the most compact inverted mufflers. I always like the Slimline brand.

Bud51

My Feedback: (15)

Looks like a great fit in the Top Flite P-40 60 ARF, just need to cut the cowl for the 2 pipes !

Terry

patniven

My Feedback: (36)

Bud,
Is that the JTEC Compact Wraparound or Standard Wraparound muffler? Tower sells the Standard Wraparound, but JTEC lists a Compact Wraparound with a smaller diameter can (1.25" vs 1.5"). Thanks for your info!
Pat

Bud51

My Feedback: (15)

Standard 1.5" Go with the 1.25 if they have it. Even with the wraparound you will need to cut the cowl some. I seen a Jtec with the corner cut on a 45 that might fit without having to cut the cowl ?

Terry

mimoore67

My Feedback: (51)

I've officially started my "Asembly" I will not be bashing other than trying to do panel lines for the first time. After doing some reading and stopping by "Hobby Lobby" (the craft store) I picked up some some Sharpie "ULtra" fine black and some silver "Paint" markers for chipping/weather.

Now, can some either tell me or point me with a link! I saw a post where someone was prepping the monokote with a scotch bright pad and then 1200 sand paper, then wiping it all down with Alcohol? Does that sound right!

Also, can I fuel proof the panel lines with a dull clear rustoleom or do I have to use Lusterkote?????

Edit - Just completed step 2, ironing down all the covering, approximately 4 hours! Break time! The covering didn't have a lot or wrinkles, but needed to be shrunk and some air bubbles removed!

Okay, two potential bash modifications - I want to do is the retractable. Using from "Chad Viech" over in his Hell Cat build, thread is the idea of removing a "U"-shape portion of the lower fuselage, to allow assess to a retractable tail wheel. There are now stringers down there, so my idea is to just remove this portion and make up some bulkheads for the removable section and secure with rare earth magnets. Still engineering this in my head.

The second potential bash, would be to put the push rods for the flaps internally in the wing and have them past through the rear of the wing, like on my VQ Hawker Hurricane and on the H9 Cessna 182, a very clean mod. This will require making up a wooden control horn and securing it to the inside of the flap. However the inside of the flap has a plastic coating, so we'll have to figure that one out first before I go drilling a hole in the rear spar area of the wing! Anyone thought of doing this????


(The wife kids are gone for a week, must get a plane done with all this quiet)[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CRhVMCUOI14[/youtube]

mimoore67

My Feedback: (51)

Edited the post above and added the video.

mimoore67

My Feedback: (51)

Just a couple of notes on the flap modification.

I mounted the servos for the flaps, so they are toward the front of the mounting plate. This allows for enough space for the horn on the servo to rotate and not bottom out on the sheeting.

I used a 3/8" drill bit to make whole through the rear of the wing, a 1/4" up from the top.

I had to drill out the the swivel ball on the robart horn slightly to .070 for the clevis to work.

I used Ohio RC thread inserts to securely mouth the horn to the flap.

Positioned the servo horn on a 45 degree angle facing forward or the equivalent of the about the 2 0'clock position.

Hopefully once I get it set up, I won't have to mess with any adjustments. It's a little difficult to get the clevis on the horn but can be done!

mimoore67

My Feedback: (51)

Bump!

Well, I must say, it's nice to put together/assemble a nice ARF! This if my first top of the line brand ARF! I usually build the odd ball goofy ones, with picture drawings for something that suppose to be an instruction manual!

I like the scale dihederal, in this model, as compared to the TF P47 and P51 ARF's which are basically flat!

mimoore67

My Feedback: (51)

Well the wing is basically done. Just have to put the gun blisters on.

Just finished "Fitting" landing gear fairing/pod. I had some difficulty putting these things on. My fairings were not consistently shaped, with the front of the fairing, being that the rear portion was sort of flat and not the rounded shape, from front to back. I solved this problem by taking the better of the two fairings and after I taped it into position, took some 1/8" balsa and traced the outline of the rear of retract fairing. I then sanded and carefully fit the balsa inside the fairing and positioned it against the rear of the retract mounting box. I then took some tape and taped from bottom rear of the fairing, up and over to the opposite side. This make the fiberglass fairing take it's proper shape.

Once the balsa was fitted, giving me the proper shape and making sure the retract struts and tires would pass through the faring, I thin went about putting four #2 button head screws in the rear and front corner (on the bottom side of the leading edge). To properly secure the screws, as it seems, there not a lot of wood to drill into. Again I used my handy Ohio RC threaded inserts. (See Picture).
These inserts allow you to make a very secure place to

With the fairing now secure, I drew a lined on the balsa former I made, on either side of retract pod/fairing opening, where the retracts struts would pass, as they are cycled. This portion of the balsa former will then be cut in have, so the strut can pass through.

Bud51

My Feedback: (15)

Looks Awesome !

What brand of retracts did you install ?

mimoore67

My Feedback: (51)

I'm using Sierra gear! Worth every penny!

I got ahead of myself. I wanted to show the modifications that I had to do use the Sierra Retracts. Overall the fitting of these much sturdier retracts wasn't that bad considering the plane was designed around the wire robart gear.

In the first picture you can see, I had to modify the gear box by cutting some of the wood at the front and back!

Second Picture, I measure the wheel well and found that it was 4 1/2" so I found some 1/4" balsa scrap and made shims to align the gear before I drilled them into position. I thought this only way to get perfect alignment and so far so good!

Third Picture, notice where I made an opening to allow for the access of the rear airline. The airline will fit between the wheel well and the rear of the spar. I drilled a hole and then soaked with CA!

Forth Picture, I wanted to show how I used the Ohio RC threaded insert to secure the landing gear fairing. Especially in the leading edge or front screw locations, there wasn't a lot of wood to drill into. These things work great, because you "wick" the CA, the insert which makes for a very solid structure to put your screw into!

Bud51

My Feedback: (15)

Your pictures really help !
Have you decided on the battery you will be using for the DLE ?

mimoore67

My Feedback: (51)

HELP!

I want to put in a retractable tail wheel! However, I may be doing something utilizing the following products!

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXMJJ7&P=SM

or

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXET15&P=SM

Now the Robart Tail wheel only has 45 degrees of retract or so!

I read somewhere someone used a the micro nose gear retract, (first link) as a retract!


Any Advice???????????????????????????????????????

mimoore67

My Feedback: (51)

Picture 1.

Tail Wheel Hatch - Today, I took the plunge and with the aid of some pins, poked through from the inside, to the edge of the front and back of the bulkheads and the bottom stringer.

Picture 2.
Once this section was cut out and removed, I sanded everything flush and smooth and took off enough material and made some front and rear bulkheads out of scrap lite ply and then added a stringer to the hatch just above the existing stringer. I then added rare earth magnets to the stringer on the fuselage and small washers on the new hatch, located on the new stringer, that I glued at the top of the hatch.


Picture 3. Well there's no picture three yet, because I have yet to get a tail wheel retract. Looks like i'll be using a Robar 122 Mini 40 size. Seems that this model retracts 90 degrees where the 60 size Model 121 only does about 45 degrees.

bacon104

Looks good!

bacon104

Mimoore67, which rear did you end up going with?

mimoore67

My Feedback: (51)

Guns- I took the rectangle ABS plastic guns and ground away 75% of the material and using the picture from my P40 in Detail book, just used the round portion, as shown in the book. This looks a lot better and more scale. I used some scrap aluminum tube, left over from ARF fuel tanks that I never use. This makes very nice gun barrels. I first drilled using .120 drill from the back side to get my holes. I then taped the guns in place and once satisfied with their placement, then drilled from the front through the front of the leading edege, leaving about 1/4" of the gun barrel showing. The length of the tubing is one inch. By drilling and locating the gun placement first, this created a jig, that I could then take off the remaining plastic on my belt sander and then final hand sanding. Then using 5 minute epoxy and I glued the barrels then plastic. I also traced and removed the covering behind the plastic, for a good gluing surface.

bacon104

Is anyone flying this plane (65" wingspan) with the FS 120 III or the FS .91? If so any issues or things of concern?

mimoore67

My Feedback: (51)

Funny you should ask!

I will be installing a OS 120 Pumper in this airplane. The cowling just swallows it! The only I'm using this engine, instead of a 91, is because I have three of them just sitting there doing nothing. As my RC Mentor says, "You can always pull the power back!"

The trick with the O.S. Pumpers, is re-plumbing the fuel lines, with some return T-fittings, as the pump put to much fuel to the carburetor. Another nice advantage of this plumbing set up, is there is very little residue, one the cleanest running four strokes I've every run, in my 20 years in the hobby, much less than my standard 91 OS four stroke.

mimoore67

My Feedback: (51)

The wing is done, except for some minor detailing. Finished up the supports for the rear portion of the landing gear fairings. Again, I used the Ohio RC thread inserts to secure the #2 button head screws to the wood. I should have used a little hard balsa, just be mindful of this if you do this.

bacon104

Well let me know if you need extra funding for your build and want to unload one of those 120's sitting around!

mimoore67

My Feedback: (51)

LOL - No Way!!!! I knew twenty years ago, that I would be married with kids, so I picked some up and just sat on them! I think there a better investment than stocks!!

I can't believe what OS engines sell for now a days!

bacon104

Will you be custom making the exhaust? I plan on doing something similar to this:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ia3z1Mlcy3o

It looks like tig welded aluminum. I'vw never tigged something that small though so we'll see. I cant see in the video though how the exhaust is secured to the engine after its connection to the flex hose.