Hey folks, I recently acquired a 1:142 scale plastic ship that I want to convert for combat. I already have the components for the RC conversion, now I just need to prep the hull to survive the rigors of combat. So here's my question: what should I do to reinforce the hull (or should I make a whole new one?) for surviving a six-foot-long battleship with nine 1/4" guns and 150 PSI of hostile intent?

You might be surprised as to how well the hull will hold up, depending on how thick it is. However, you can always back the ribs (frames of the penetration windows_ with some 1/4" square birch epoxied in place. I would find the closest local club and ask their advice (and see how the penetration windows are done, and getting the cuts pre-certified by the Technical Officer). One thing to keep in mind, 1/142 is a bit large to begin with. By the time you add skinning, you might be over the 5% variance that some clubs allow (some clubs only allow a 2% vairance).

Just out of curiosity, what ship did you find?

Wreno

The ship is the Revell North Sea Trawler, to be named SS Willie Mackett. Comes in at 14" long, 2" wide, and well under a pound. After watching nearly every transport last year get sunk due to sluggishness and unmaneuverability (heck, my brother bagged one, and that's really saying something!), I concluded that a smaller, more maneuverable transport would likely stand a better chance. I figure with a more era-appropriate superstructure and four Chariot Mark I's on deck, a North Sea Trawler would fit right in with the rest of the merchant fleet.

I am aware of the scale considerations, and have already compensated for them. 1:142 is within the 5% allowed by the WWCC, so I'm good there. Rib spacing will err on the penetrable side, as is customary, so I've got that covered as well. What I'm worried about is the impenetrable bow and stern, because I hope that those will be shot much more often than the soft balsa sides (and even then, not often!).

I am fairly sure that I will reinforce parts of the hull with fiberglass, I just don't know what weight and weave to use. Any advice in this category, or other ideas for reinforcement, would be greatly appreciated.

I think that most of the types of plastics used for model kits would be prone to shatter when hit. Backing or reinforcing may only serve to help hold the shattered pieces together.

The model's best use might be to serve as the mold for a fiberglass hull?

JM

Hello,

From what I understand. Most battle boat hulls are made of doped-paper and not plastic. I think, one reason is for safety (to help prevent the projectile from dangerously ricocheting at an odd angle and creating potentially dangerous situations.) and the other reason is, that doped-paper can be repaired relatively easily.

The reason I comment is, our new Battle-Boat-Club here in Massachusetts will be starting soon, and perhaps may be one of the most lenient of them all. (We hope to include self-guided weapons.) We had our first official meeting on May 21, 2007 and plastic hulls was one of the first questions asked!

Please let me know what you find out. I'm very curious if there is a Battle-Boat club that allows plastic-hulls. Apparently the projectile velocity would have to be quite high to penetrate even 3/32" of plastic. We plan to do a lot of pre-testing to determine projectile velocities and material penetrations. (We want to create classes determined by muzzle velocity and projectile weight.) So far, doped paper appears to be the safest and most practical as no metal will be allowed in (Low powder load) torpedoes, rockets or depth charges and would be totally useless against plastic hulls.

Of course, safety, and legality is number one and complete annihilation is number 2!

Thanks, and good luck!

-J

A ship needs a frame, to hang doped paper, balsa, or whatever "skin" onto & keep the proper shape. Fiberglass is commonly used, with "windows" cut out to give the effect of a ribbed frame. Shots can easily penetrate the sking between ribs, so high power isn't needed. I think that's what the OP is proposing to do with his plastic model, not fight it as-is.

JM

Exactly. I already plan on cutting out penetrable windows, that I will sheet over with 1/16" soft balsa wood as my club allows. My question is what I should use to reinforce the plastic parts: the ribs, keel, and impenetrable bow and stern. What weight of fiberglass would you recommend? It's a small boat so heavy cloth might not fit very well, but too lightweight cloth might not be strong enough.