Help me tame my Aftershock 8E
07-07-2011, 05:41 AM
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Help me tame my Aftershock 8E
I bought a used Aftershock 8E roller on ebay and started piecing it back together. There was no ESCand one of the battery trays was missing, soI picked up an EZ-RUN 120a and a programmer and decided to try it out with just one battery. With a 2S 30C lipo it was fun but didn't have much top speed and the battery life wasn't so great.
So last night I put a series adapter together and ran it with 2 of the same battery. Now it's stupid fast. At top speed, any tiny disruption sends it flipping down the street. I haven't managed to land a jump yet because no matter how early Itry to let off the throttle it flips over backwards. And thenI had to put it away because one of the tires blew up.
Ithought Iremembered seeing max output on the ESCprogrammer, but apparently that was just for reverse. So what can Ido to slow this thing down? I COULD run on a single battery and gear up for top speed, but I don't think that's going to be quite fast enough. A 3S battery seems like it would be perfect, but I've already bought 4 2S and I really don't need to spend even more money. Is being more careful with the throttle my only option?
So last night I put a series adapter together and ran it with 2 of the same battery. Now it's stupid fast. At top speed, any tiny disruption sends it flipping down the street. I haven't managed to land a jump yet because no matter how early Itry to let off the throttle it flips over backwards. And thenI had to put it away because one of the tires blew up.
Ithought Iremembered seeing max output on the ESCprogrammer, but apparently that was just for reverse. So what can Ido to slow this thing down? I COULD run on a single battery and gear up for top speed, but I don't think that's going to be quite fast enough. A 3S battery seems like it would be perfect, but I've already bought 4 2S and I really don't need to spend even more money. Is being more careful with the throttle my only option?
07-07-2011, 06:02 AM
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RE: Help me tame my Aftershock 8E
peopl wit ferraris dont drive 200 mph evrywher dey go. u gota lern 2 control it
but, if full speed 2 brake causes flips, lower max brake force.
if ded stop 2 full speed wants 2 wheely, raise punch control.
& if u got a good radio, lowr steerin deflection by dual/rate. less steern is best 4 drag races.
othr den dat, hav fun
but, if full speed 2 brake causes flips, lower max brake force.
if ded stop 2 full speed wants 2 wheely, raise punch control.
& if u got a good radio, lowr steerin deflection by dual/rate. less steern is best 4 drag races.
othr den dat, hav fun
07-07-2011, 06:30 AM
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RE: Help me tame my Aftershock 8E
ORIGINAL: xerxes
peopl wit ferraris dont drive 200 mph evrywher dey go. u gota lern 2 control it
but, if full speed 2 brake causes flips, lower max brake force.
if ded stop 2 full speed wants 2 wheely, raise punch control.
& if u got a good radio, lowr steerin deflection by dual/rate. less steern is best 4 drag races.
othr den dat, hav fun
peopl wit ferraris dont drive 200 mph evrywher dey go. u gota lern 2 control it
but, if full speed 2 brake causes flips, lower max brake force.
if ded stop 2 full speed wants 2 wheely, raise punch control.
& if u got a good radio, lowr steerin deflection by dual/rate. less steern is best 4 drag races.
othr den dat, hav fun
Yeah WHATDIDYOUJUSTSAY......
07-07-2011, 07:45 AM
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RE: Help me tame my Aftershock 8E
That sounds like the aftershock i know 
you can reduce the "punch" with a programmer card - this won't affect the top speed, but will make acceleration more linear. you can play with the timing which will ultimately affect speed - but i haven't been able to slow it down much without introducing a TON of cogging and twitchy throttle behavior. Once i got used to the truck and made some adjustments, you'll want more speed.
Out of the box - its very twitchy, and needs some adjustments. There's no 100% fit for everyone - but here's what i did, and i love my AS8E now. total cost for the below is a couple of hours in time, if you're new.. and <10 dollars.
TL
Rsummary:
- pre-load springs, thicker shock oil.
- add toe in to the front. small adjustments until you get it right.
- add negative camber.
- lay down shocks
- add thicker diff fluid.
explanations version:
The suspension is adjustable - i would add more pre-load by adjusting the sping land lower... and get thicker shock oil... this will mellow out the ride a bit - make it less twitchy, but you'll sacrifice a bit of off road bump soaking ability.
you also need to play with the steering linkages. Adjust them for a little toe in in the front (the result is also to help stabilize the ride a bit)
Also adjust for a little negative camber, all around. This means adjusting the upper adjustable link slightly, such that the tire leans in toward the top. Use a sharp eye and do it slowly - you don't want more than a couple of degrees. Stock - mine was set with positive camber - drove terribly, and was twitchy as hell.. yours might have the same problem.
Lay down the shocks a bit - (there are 3 top and bottom) and used the innermost one at the top, and the outermost one at the bottom - this lays the shock down at a greater angle, but you lose a little ground clearance. Again - not important for a mostly on-road car.
- The stock differentials need heavier oil. equal power delivery to each wheel is a lot more predictable. Stock was a very thin coating, if any at all (i've heard of some being warrantied due to no oil, then failure) - i use 10k, 5k, 10k in the front, center, rear, respectively. This is very subjective - some people like a heavier rear, etc.. you can stick with 5k all around if you want to start and then adjust as you feel necessary. Heavier oil, will mean greater bias toward's the opposite axle, but more of an LSDeffect. too heavy in the rear and too light on the front will make you mostly front wheel drive lol. There's a LOTto cover with diff fluid, so i would just get something in there - moderately light like 5k, and then ask specific questions later, or read some of the already lengthy posts on that subject, if you need to correct certain behaviors in the car related to diffs.
Even with everything stock on mine - these few adjustments allowed me to take turns at full speed, hold a drift, and make predictable spin-out stops without flipping over.
The adjustment also needs to be made to your driving. The stock steering servo is overpowered completely when on the throttle... for best control you need to blip the throttle while turning, to rotate the rear, and not push (understeer)
>>>>>><<<<<<<
end of long ****.
Once you get her dialed in the way that suits you - then and only then should you start replacing parts. Its fine stock - but a few kep components go a long way. In this order i think are the most important mods that won't break the bank. If yours doesn't already have the updated redcat servo saver, and aluminum c-hubs - get them... they had a free replacement program - not sure if its still active. The old design would break just sitting there lol
suggested parts: 60-100.00 total.
tires. Drive it on road a lot, and the stock sidewalls will tear. They handle offroad and moderate speeds fine though... but will chunk off and tear with high speed and rough use. . get some new tires, or a tire/wheel combo from another car. I personally like the slash wheels tires (IIRC you need the rears from a slash. the fronts are a different hub design - double check me on that however)
springs/shocks: stock stuff is livable once you put heavier oil in.. but the springs are not progressive, and don't offer a lot of in between with pre-load.. they are either stiff or soft, but mid level preload doesn't do much. there are lots of choices out there, and pretty much any 1/8 scale spring/shock will work. The shocks are good but have too little travel. They bottom out too easily - longer shocks will give you better travel, which translates to a tamer ride.
steering servo: the stock one is weak at speed.. but fine for moderate stuff. I replaced mine (forget the part number - search my posts - it was recent) with a higher kg one. Its not any quicker, but holds the angle much better with speed. tracks straight now even when in rough terrain going fast.
That's all i've needed to do to mine to wake it up. I built a delrin roll cage for it - but thats just because i'm a basher at heart. you should see what i did to my first aftershock (a 3.5 nitro).
Since you have a 120A esc - you can graduate up to 2x 3s batteries. You think its insane now? the motor should handle it as long as you keep it cool (heat sink and fan)
you can reduce the "punch" with a programmer card - this won't affect the top speed, but will make acceleration more linear. you can play with the timing which will ultimately affect speed - but i haven't been able to slow it down much without introducing a TON of cogging and twitchy throttle behavior. Once i got used to the truck and made some adjustments, you'll want more speed.
Out of the box - its very twitchy, and needs some adjustments. There's no 100% fit for everyone - but here's what i did, and i love my AS8E now. total cost for the below is a couple of hours in time, if you're new.. and <10 dollars.
TL
Rsummary: - pre-load springs, thicker shock oil.
- add toe in to the front. small adjustments until you get it right.
- add negative camber.
- lay down shocks
- add thicker diff fluid.
explanations version:
The suspension is adjustable - i would add more pre-load by adjusting the sping land lower... and get thicker shock oil... this will mellow out the ride a bit - make it less twitchy, but you'll sacrifice a bit of off road bump soaking ability.
you also need to play with the steering linkages. Adjust them for a little toe in in the front (the result is also to help stabilize the ride a bit)
Also adjust for a little negative camber, all around. This means adjusting the upper adjustable link slightly, such that the tire leans in toward the top. Use a sharp eye and do it slowly - you don't want more than a couple of degrees. Stock - mine was set with positive camber - drove terribly, and was twitchy as hell.. yours might have the same problem.
Lay down the shocks a bit - (there are 3 top and bottom) and used the innermost one at the top, and the outermost one at the bottom - this lays the shock down at a greater angle, but you lose a little ground clearance. Again - not important for a mostly on-road car.
- The stock differentials need heavier oil. equal power delivery to each wheel is a lot more predictable. Stock was a very thin coating, if any at all (i've heard of some being warrantied due to no oil, then failure) - i use 10k, 5k, 10k in the front, center, rear, respectively. This is very subjective - some people like a heavier rear, etc.. you can stick with 5k all around if you want to start and then adjust as you feel necessary. Heavier oil, will mean greater bias toward's the opposite axle, but more of an LSDeffect. too heavy in the rear and too light on the front will make you mostly front wheel drive lol. There's a LOTto cover with diff fluid, so i would just get something in there - moderately light like 5k, and then ask specific questions later, or read some of the already lengthy posts on that subject, if you need to correct certain behaviors in the car related to diffs.
Even with everything stock on mine - these few adjustments allowed me to take turns at full speed, hold a drift, and make predictable spin-out stops without flipping over.
The adjustment also needs to be made to your driving. The stock steering servo is overpowered completely when on the throttle... for best control you need to blip the throttle while turning, to rotate the rear, and not push (understeer)
>>>>>><<<<<<<
end of long ****.
Once you get her dialed in the way that suits you - then and only then should you start replacing parts. Its fine stock - but a few kep components go a long way. In this order i think are the most important mods that won't break the bank. If yours doesn't already have the updated redcat servo saver, and aluminum c-hubs - get them... they had a free replacement program - not sure if its still active. The old design would break just sitting there lol
suggested parts: 60-100.00 total.
tires. Drive it on road a lot, and the stock sidewalls will tear. They handle offroad and moderate speeds fine though... but will chunk off and tear with high speed and rough use. . get some new tires, or a tire/wheel combo from another car. I personally like the slash wheels tires (IIRC you need the rears from a slash. the fronts are a different hub design - double check me on that however)
springs/shocks: stock stuff is livable once you put heavier oil in.. but the springs are not progressive, and don't offer a lot of in between with pre-load.. they are either stiff or soft, but mid level preload doesn't do much. there are lots of choices out there, and pretty much any 1/8 scale spring/shock will work. The shocks are good but have too little travel. They bottom out too easily - longer shocks will give you better travel, which translates to a tamer ride.
steering servo: the stock one is weak at speed.. but fine for moderate stuff. I replaced mine (forget the part number - search my posts - it was recent) with a higher kg one. Its not any quicker, but holds the angle much better with speed. tracks straight now even when in rough terrain going fast.
That's all i've needed to do to mine to wake it up. I built a delrin roll cage for it - but thats just because i'm a basher at heart. you should see what i did to my first aftershock (a 3.5 nitro).
Since you have a 120A esc - you can graduate up to 2x 3s batteries. You think its insane now?
the motor should handle it as long as you keep it cool (heat sink and fan)
07-07-2011, 08:20 AM
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RE: Help me tame my Aftershock 8E
Lots of info there.. I'm pretty familiar with handling theory (lots of autox in my WRX) but using your advice as a starting point will make it a lot easier. The idea is really to run this thing at the track, but Ican't resist bashing around the yard through the week. Idon't think this thing is ever going to see full throttle at the track with this kind of power.
I've upgraded the servo to a Hitec. Punch on the ESC is set to 1 now, and Idecreased timing some, but the top speed is still killer. I'll look at longer shocks and stiffer springs. I think the previos owner must have put some heavier shock oil in. The diffs are open though, and that's something Idefinitely want to look at. And yeah, the power tore my tire sidewall right up.
I really like the tall sidewall on the SCtires, but I'd like to upgrade to 17mm hubs and if the SC tires aren't going to hold up I'll probably just go ahead and do it. I want to gear it down a bit, especially if I go to a taller wheel/tire.What size pinions fit? I'd probably go with a 12 or 13 tooth, and I want to have a few on hand anyway. Iwas watching a beadlock wheel/tire set on ebay but got outbid, but I'm 50/50 that the truck would throw tires off a beadlock wheel anyway.
What's the updated servo saver? And are you saying Ishould be able to trade my plastic c-hubs in for aluminum? As in this part? http://www.redcatracing.com/s.nl/it.A/id.2176/.f
I do have the Redcat heatsink and fan on my motor. The heatsink was interfering with the center aluminum piece soI had to cut a bit out. It sat for a minute before Igot my temp gun on it but it was at 160* at that point.What's too hot?
Thanks for the tips!
I'm pretty familiar with handling theory (lots of autox in my WRX) but using your advice as a starting point will make it a lot easier. The idea is really to run this thing at the track, but Ican't resist bashing around the yard through the week. Idon't think this thing is ever going to see full throttle at the track with this kind of power.I've upgraded the servo to a Hitec. Punch on the ESC is set to 1 now, and Idecreased timing some, but the top speed is still killer. I'll look at longer shocks and stiffer springs. I think the previos owner must have put some heavier shock oil in. The diffs are open though, and that's something Idefinitely want to look at. And yeah, the power tore my tire sidewall right up.
I really like the tall sidewall on the SCtires, but I'd like to upgrade to 17mm hubs and if the SC tires aren't going to hold up I'll probably just go ahead and do it. I want to gear it down a bit, especially if I go to a taller wheel/tire.What size pinions fit? I'd probably go with a 12 or 13 tooth, and I want to have a few on hand anyway. Iwas watching a beadlock wheel/tire set on ebay but got outbid, but I'm 50/50 that the truck would throw tires off a beadlock wheel anyway.
What's the updated servo saver? And are you saying Ishould be able to trade my plastic c-hubs in for aluminum? As in this part? http://www.redcatracing.com/s.nl/it.A/id.2176/.f
I do have the Redcat heatsink and fan on my motor. The heatsink was interfering with the center aluminum piece soI had to cut a bit out. It sat for a minute before Igot my temp gun on it but it was at 160* at that point.What's too hot?
Thanks for the tips!
07-07-2011, 10:16 AM
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RE: Help me tame my Aftershock 8E
Good to see a fellow auto-xer! I used to do pretty well regionally, back a few years with my turbo mx6.
If you go with a larger hub/shorter tire - handling will greatly improve just from that.. the 17mm hubs will let you use the stock backdraft wheels and tires which are definitely better.
Beadlocks are a mixed bag... depends on how good they are really.. cheaper beadlocks will have you tearing the tire off thge bead, but a good compression style 2 piece rim beadlock should work fine.
for pinions - anything within 2 teeth in either direction will work fine.. if you want to go by more of an offset - i would also change the spur, to prevent cogging... and might have to play with timing a bit. If you're gearing up for lower top speed... please be aware that the acceleration will be explosive.. might be equally twitchy at the track. As is - stock, you can catch 10-15 feet of air, from a standstill, just a few feet from the ramp.
re: the trade in program - i think they just give you updated plastics.. but on that note - my 8e came with aluminum.. I assumed this was stock for the 8e's but i've seen plenty without (and my 3.5 had the plastics) - so i'm not certain... if its only updated plastics - give them a try... i have no experience with them, but haven't heard any chronic breakage problems since they redesigned them.
re: the servo saver and steering arm combo - last time i ordered the part number for the plastic part - they sent me the aluminum one. haven't had a problem since (but was breaking them fairly regularly prior to that)
I also glued the servo saver last time around - so its solid, and removed a bit of slop... though i wouldn't recommend it because it puts all the stress on the servo then.
If you go with a larger hub/shorter tire - handling will greatly improve just from that.. the 17mm hubs will let you use the stock backdraft wheels and tires which are definitely better.
Beadlocks are a mixed bag... depends on how good they are really.. cheaper beadlocks will have you tearing the tire off thge bead, but a good compression style 2 piece rim beadlock should work fine.
for pinions - anything within 2 teeth in either direction will work fine.. if you want to go by more of an offset - i would also change the spur, to prevent cogging... and might have to play with timing a bit. If you're gearing up for lower top speed... please be aware that the acceleration will be explosive.. might be equally twitchy at the track. As is - stock, you can catch 10-15 feet of air, from a standstill, just a few feet from the ramp.
re: the trade in program - i think they just give you updated plastics.. but on that note - my 8e came with aluminum.. I assumed this was stock for the 8e's but i've seen plenty without (and my 3.5 had the plastics) - so i'm not certain... if its only updated plastics - give them a try... i have no experience with them, but haven't heard any chronic breakage problems since they redesigned them.
re: the servo saver and steering arm combo - last time i ordered the part number for the plastic part - they sent me the aluminum one. haven't had a problem since (but was breaking them fairly regularly prior to that)
I also glued the servo saver last time around - so its solid, and removed a bit of slop... though i wouldn't recommend it because it puts all the stress on the servo then.
07-07-2011, 11:03 AM
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RE: Help me tame my Aftershock 8E
I was never very good at autox. Just had a blast. Bought a kart a couple years ago because I was tired of buying tires for the car and haven't been out since.
I did throw a 17mm hub kit in my Redcat cart today. I had a new set of SCwheels but Idon't want to bother going that route again. I'm thinking I'll probably convert my Backdraft to a touring car soI'll have 2 sets of wheels to use from that. Of course, I'm sure I'll start wheelie-ing then.. We'll see. And actually, we'll see sooner rather than later Iwas thinking I needed to wait a week for my parts to get here, but since I'm converting Ican just rob my Backdraft. Poor buggy.. Just hard to touch the nitro now that Ihave an electric.
I just ordered a few 13T pinions. I'll try it out and see what happens.Hopefully with the punch turned all the way down it should be controllable. I turned the punch down to 2/9 last night, but punch wasn't really my problem so it didn't help much. I played with my dad's and neighbor's Volcanos with a few different pinions and I liked them better with shorter pinions, so hopefully that carries over to 1/8 scale.
I'll check on the servo saver. It does have the aluminum steering arms. I managed to break the lower screw on both sides on my Backdraft and accidentally ordered plastic to replace those, and so far I haven't had trouble. I had stainless screws in them and couldn't extract either without ruining the part. Maybe I'd be better off bending the stock soft steal than breaking stainless..
The second night Idrove the car a rock got stuck under the steering linkage and it was bound up. After that, I couldn't get the car to run and finally found the receiver was fried. I'm not sure if the servo took it out or if it was just a bad receiver, but I swapped a new one in (sorry again, Backdraft) and it's working now. I didn't want to take the chance of the servo frying the new receiver soI also put my Hitec servo in it. Hopefully it's not raining tonight and I can get the diffs and shocks refilled and hubs swapped over to try out.
Just had a blast. Bought a kart a couple years ago because I was tired of buying tires for the car and haven't been out since.I did throw a 17mm hub kit in my Redcat cart today. I had a new set of SCwheels but Idon't want to bother going that route again. I'm thinking I'll probably convert my Backdraft to a touring car soI'll have 2 sets of wheels to use from that. Of course, I'm sure I'll start wheelie-ing then.. We'll see. And actually, we'll see sooner rather than later Iwas thinking I needed to wait a week for my parts to get here, but since I'm converting Ican just rob my Backdraft. Poor buggy.. Just hard to touch the nitro now that Ihave an electric.
I just ordered a few 13T pinions. I'll try it out and see what happens.Hopefully with the punch turned all the way down it should be controllable. I turned the punch down to 2/9 last night, but punch wasn't really my problem so it didn't help much. I played with my dad's and neighbor's Volcanos with a few different pinions and I liked them better with shorter pinions, so hopefully that carries over to 1/8 scale.
I'll check on the servo saver. It does have the aluminum steering arms. I managed to break the lower screw on both sides on my Backdraft and accidentally ordered plastic to replace those, and so far I haven't had trouble. I had stainless screws in them and couldn't extract either without ruining the part. Maybe I'd be better off bending the stock soft steal than breaking stainless..
The second night Idrove the car a rock got stuck under the steering linkage and it was bound up. After that, I couldn't get the car to run and finally found the receiver was fried. I'm not sure if the servo took it out or if it was just a bad receiver, but I swapped a new one in (sorry again, Backdraft) and it's working now. I didn't want to take the chance of the servo frying the new receiver soI also put my Hitec servo in it. Hopefully it's not raining tonight and I can get the diffs and shocks refilled and hubs swapped over to try out.
07-07-2011, 08:51 PM
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RE: Help me tame my Aftershock 8E
Alright, I got everything swapped over to the AS, including the body mounts, and filled the diffs with 5k oil. It's a total frankenstein now. I ran it down the street to show my buddy and the front upper control arm broke at some point, and then shredded another tire. It still doesn't wheelie which makes me happy. Wheels and hubs, body and mounts are off the Backdraft. I think I'm going to stick with the buggy body but I'll get a new one to keep my battery cables safe.
07-08-2011, 04:29 AM
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RE: Help me tame my Aftershock 8E
Well, I got everything put back together and went out to play right away without making any of the other changes you suggested, other than diff oil. It wasn't much different, but it was a bit less twitchy. I think bigger wheel and lower profile sidewall might have been a big part of that. It was dark by the time I got it fixed and this thing is actually loud enough to wake my wife up so it'll have to wait till this afternoon. Thanks again for the help.
Anyone know the cheapest way to buy 17mm buggy wheels and tires?
Thanks again for the help. Anyone know the cheapest way to buy 17mm buggy wheels and tires?
07-08-2011, 09:37 AM
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RE: Help me tame my Aftershock 8E
buy used from the for sale portion of rc forums. This way you can get a few cheap and find out what works. Then once you know you can lay down for the new ones. But i have been picking up aka and panther tires this week and got some good proline caliber and holeshots last week. Big race this weekend going to see what my little blitz will handle.
07-08-2011, 10:55 AM
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RE: Help me tame my Aftershock 8E
I'll check out the used tires, I just want something to get me running.
So I put everything back together and drove it around the driveway for a minute last night and then put the batteries on the charger. I got to it today and tried to drive but all I get is a bunch of chatter from the pinion and spur and it won't go. It jerks slightly forward and back, like the timing is off, so I tried a few different settings without any luck. Any ideas?
Edit: The solder for one of the ESC leads broke off again. Haven't trouble getting that thing tinned..
So I put everything back together and drove it around the driveway for a minute last night and then put the batteries on the charger. I got to it today and tried to drive but all I get is a bunch of chatter from the pinion and spur and it won't go. It jerks slightly forward and back, like the timing is off, so I tried a few different settings without any luck. Any ideas?
Edit: The solder for one of the ESC leads broke off again. Haven't trouble getting that thing tinned..
07-08-2011, 11:20 AM
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RE: Help me tame my Aftershock 8E
hows your gear mesh. Also check to make sure nothing is binding after you reassembled after diff work. I had done that and wore out the front outdrive shaft cup.
07-08-2011, 06:32 PM
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RE: Help me tame my Aftershock 8E
get a better soldering iron and new tips. I was messing around with a low powered 10w one from the 80's, for the longest time, until i used a nice 40W with a decent tip... world of difference.
http://www.amazon.com/Weller-WLC100-...8098840&sr=8-1
*edit - and use flux, if you aren't.
http://www.amazon.com/Weller-WLC100-...8098840&sr=8-1
*edit - and use flux, if you aren't.
07-09-2011, 02:05 PM
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RE: Help me tame my Aftershock 8E
Yeah, I bought a nice soldering station on ebay that should be here any day. By the time it gets here I'll probably won't have anything left to solder.
I put some Traxxas control arm links on it because they look stronger and added a bunch of camber in the front and it's handling a lot better now. Unfortunately what I thought was the pinion slipping on the shaft (I took it off and reseated it half a dozen times) was actually the motor shaft spinning free inside the motor. So now I'm in the market for a new motor.
I put some Traxxas control arm links on it because they look stronger and added a bunch of camber in the front and it's handling a lot better now. Unfortunately what I thought was the pinion slipping on the shaft (I took it off and reseated it half a dozen times) was actually the motor shaft spinning free inside the motor. So now I'm in the market for a new motor.
07-09-2011, 05:37 PM
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RE: Help me tame my Aftershock 8E
had 2 motors do that and went with a tekin system and its was to much for that buggy. might try a 1700 kv motor or such in the redcat.
07-09-2011, 07:55 PM
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RE: Help me tame my Aftershock 8E
Even if you're outside of the warranty - the electronics are covered by a lifetime replacement with surcharge offering.
take a look at the pdf for motors.
http://www.redcatracing.com/information/warranty.html
take a look at the pdf for motors.
http://www.redcatracing.com/information/warranty.html
07-11-2011, 05:05 AM
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RE: Help me tame my Aftershock 8E
It's not under warranty and they don't have any of that motor in stock. I'm thinking about this one, what do you think?
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__14632__Turnigy_TrackStar_4068_2560KV_1%2F8th_Bru shless_Motor.html
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__14632__Turnigy_TrackStar_4068_2560KV_1%2F8th_Bru shless_Motor.html
07-11-2011, 07:57 AM
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RE: Help me tame my Aftershock 8E
thats the motor in all of their 8e's! surprising they don't have it in stock lol.
I've been a fan of tacon lately.. no experience with the one you mentioned but the specs look fine.
Here's some tacon stuff:
http://www.nitrorcx.com/tacon8.html
the 540 cans should work and you can slow it down a little if you want. the 2800kv will be a sligh step up.
I've been a fan of tacon lately.. no experience with the one you mentioned but the specs look fine.
Here's some tacon stuff:
http://www.nitrorcx.com/tacon8.html
the 540 cans should work and you can slow it down a little if you want. the 2800kv will be a sligh step up.
07-14-2011, 06:38 PM
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RE: Help me tame my Aftershock 8E
I ended up ordering a pair of motors, the one I linked and then a Tacon you linked so I don't have to wait a month. Tonight I got bored and when I couldn't find (half of) my JB Weld, I superglued the magnet back on the motor shaft and.. it works. So far. With a single 2S lipo. Long enough to strip the threads on the bottom of my third steering knuckle. I've had better luck with the plastic. 
07-18-2011, 07:56 AM
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RE: Help me tame my Aftershock 8E
These steering knuckles are killing me. The bottom hole of one of the aluminum parts stripped out over the weekend so I replaced it with a plastic. The screws keep backing out and disappearing, and the brass bushing with them. No idea how to keep those screws from coming out, and I don't know now whether I'd rather use plastic or aluminum knuckles.
If anyone could give me a Redcat part number (or any other part number that would work) for these bushings I would appreciate it. They're the ones on the top right here: http://www.redcatracing.com/s.nl/it.A/id.2176/.f
If anyone could give me a Redcat part number (or any other part number that would work) for these bushings I would appreciate it. They're the ones on the top right here: http://www.redcatracing.com/s.nl/it.A/id.2176/.f
07-18-2011, 08:17 AM
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RE: Help me tame my Aftershock 8E
I had the same problem with my backdraft 8E. The steering knuckles are the same for both i think. I orderd the aluminium ones and could not get the screws to stop working loose so i just put some loctite on them and never had a problem after that.
07-18-2011, 09:29 AM
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RE: Help me tame my Aftershock 8E
I had locktite in my aluminum ones but the screws broke in both (and I wasn't able to extract them ) I tried both original screws and stainless I got from rcscrewz.com. So I ordered new knuckles from rufaster and accidentally got the plastic. Except for one side where THAT screw keeps backing out they've worked better for me. I think I can live with it as long as I can find some bushings so I'm not buying new carrier hubs every time a screw backs out.
) I tried both original screws and stainless I got from rcscrewz.com. So I ordered new knuckles from rufaster and accidentally got the plastic. Except for one side where THAT screw keeps backing out they've worked better for me. I think I can live with it as long as I can find some bushings so I'm not buying new carrier hubs every time a screw backs out.
07-18-2011, 09:53 AM
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RE: Help me tame my Aftershock 8E
I dont know if this would help yours or not but i also had some screws snap off on mine. What I had to do was bend the c-hub so that there was less gap between it and the knuckle arm.This is onthe aluminium cause theplastic ones bendanyways.That gap was big enough that the screw was showing and it dont matter what grade of tiny screw you get its going to snap if it doesnt have anything to support it. As for the bushing i took a small brake line sleeve and just grinded it until it fit. Dont know where you would be able to find them. I just lucked out that my work had some.
07-18-2011, 10:48 AM
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RE: Help me tame my Aftershock 8E
I noticed that too, I wasn't sure if the bushing was going to fill that gap or not and never took a closer look. Apparently not.
My Tacon motor came today. I looked at it briefly while I was home on lunch and I'm afraid it might be too long. Have people used these? This is the one I bought:
http://www.hobbypartz.com/96m802-4074-2150kv.html
My Tacon motor came today. I looked at it briefly while I was home on lunch and I'm afraid it might be too long. Have people used these? This is the one I bought:
http://www.hobbypartz.com/96m802-4074-2150kv.html