Backdraft 8E - Steering Knuckle
#1
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From: Quebec City,
QC, CANADA
<span style="font-size: small; "><span style="font-family: Arial; ">Anyone had to change one or both ofSteering Knuckles (BS903-111) on their Backdraft 8E?
I had to yesterday and I'm having this problem:
It seems that Redcat upgraded the 2 screws that hold the aluminium Knuckles in place inside the plastic "</span></span>C-Carrier".
** Stock version on left VS upgraded version on right (you can see the bigger hole):

My problem is as soon as I screw them tight, it basically no longer turns left or right.
<br type="_moz" />
Any idea why?
I had to yesterday and I'm having this problem:
It seems that Redcat upgraded the 2 screws that hold the aluminium Knuckles in place inside the plastic "</span></span>C-Carrier".
** Stock version on left VS upgraded version on right (you can see the bigger hole):

My problem is as soon as I screw them tight, it basically no longer turns left or right.
<br type="_moz" />

Any idea why?
#2
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From: Billings,
MT
I went through the same thing. You need the sleeve in top of the C-hub in order for the screw to be tight but yet still be able to spin. I had to make my own sleeves for this and also put loctite on the screw. But remember i am no pro... so maybe someone else might have a better idea.
#3
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From: Palo,
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Yeah, you definitely need to have a bushing in there. You may be able to find something at the hardware store or make something. I was planning on trying the head of a rivet ( http://www.aeroassemblies.com/images/pop/rivets.jpg ) but haven't gotten around to it yet. If that doesn't work out, I'd just order a new pair of C-hubs AFTER doublechecking with Redcat that they have the updated bushings.
If all else fails, you could try using loctite and not tightening them all the way down. Obviously not the best choice.
If all else fails, you could try using loctite and not tightening them all the way down. Obviously not the best choice.
#4
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From: Quebec City,
QC, CANADA
I received myc-hub yesterday and it still comes with smaller screws... I'm kinda ****ed up.<div>
</div><div>I don't know if this is because my dealer still have the previous version in stock...</div><div>
</div><div>What would you recommend to use to create my own sleeves for the bigger screw?</div>
</div><div>I don't know if this is because my dealer still have the previous version in stock...</div><div>
</div><div>What would you recommend to use to create my own sleeves for the bigger screw?</div>
#5
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From: Billings,
MT
I found a small fuild line sleeve and sanded it down. Dont remember the size right off hand. But if you take your C-Hub with you you can find a size that best matches and go from there. Hope this helps!!

#6
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From: Palo,
IA
I put mine in last week and didn't have the bushings, so I went without and used threadlocker. So far so good, but I obviously couldn't tighten the screws all the way down or they would be binding.
#8
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From: Quebec City,
QC, CANADA
<div></div><div>Here's 2 pictures to illustrate the problem:</div><div></div><div>- "Nouveau / Nouvelle" means "new"</div><div>- "Vis" means "screw"</div><div>- "Ancienne" means "old"</div><div></div>
<div></div><div>
</div>
<div></div><div>
</div>
#10
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From: Quebec City,
QC, CANADA
<div>I'm curious if those bushings would fit...</div><div>
</div>http://www.redcatracing.com/RC-Cars/...arts/07127-2_2<div>
</div><div>http://www.redcatracing.com/RC-Cars/Redcat-Parts/07127</div>
</div>http://www.redcatracing.com/RC-Cars/...arts/07127-2_2<div>
</div><div>http://www.redcatracing.com/RC-Cars/Redcat-Parts/07127</div>
#12
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From: Quebec City,
QC, CANADA
PROBLEM SOLVED!!<div>
</div><div>Ofna 40527 is the solution
</div><div>
</div><div>Just had to redrill the holes in the C-hub with a 1/4 drill bit.</div><div>
</div><div>It's rebuilt now and I'm off to sand pit for bash tests!</div><div>
</div><div>I'll keep you up to date
</div>
</div><div>Ofna 40527 is the solution
</div><div></div><div>Just had to redrill the holes in the C-hub with a 1/4 drill bit.</div><div>
</div><div>It's rebuilt now and I'm off to sand pit for bash tests!</div><div>
</div><div>I'll keep you up to date
</div>
#13
im a machinist & i just lathed up a set of steel 8e bushings. alum wears out 2 fast. myne r press fit so theyll nevr fall out, evn if i drop the screw. any1 intrestd? i can make more.
#14
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From: Portland,
OR
Its both the material of the hub and the screws.
I fixed a customers problem by getting 4 40 screws from a hardware store. he stock steel screws are weak and bend easily.
Also, a simple fix (if you don't want to spend a ton on loctite, is use clear fingernail polish on the screw threads. It makes the screw tacky enough to stay in and not vibrate out, yet still soft enough to remove with a little pressure.
MOmo
I fixed a customers problem by getting 4 40 screws from a hardware store. he stock steel screws are weak and bend easily.
Also, a simple fix (if you don't want to spend a ton on loctite, is use clear fingernail polish on the screw threads. It makes the screw tacky enough to stay in and not vibrate out, yet still soft enough to remove with a little pressure.
MOmo
#15
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From: Palo,
IA
I've heard titanium screws will work. I bought a pack but my upgrade knuckles came before I ever tried them. I wonder if the upgrade happened more because they felt it was needed for the 1/6 scales.
#16
wow dis site suks. almost a whole fuking month & im still waitn 4 rcken or sheograth 2 aprove my post. i guess those 2 idiots have better things 2 do den 2 follow rcus rules & aprove posts [&:]




