lucasdon17

Hi
I tried almost everything but still i am not able to prime the engine.

I noticed one aspect which i am not sure is normal or usually happens...When i pour few drops of fuel in the carb..i notice that it drips out from near the clutch bell. I guess its something wrong here ...so what shuld i do..?? I

Things i checked..

The fuel line is clear of any puncture.
The silicon exhaust connector is tight.
I close the exhaust with a finger to prime
Throttle is in idle.
Glow plug is nice and tight.

The exhaust gasket that i chaged due to a rip off is sealed well.

Pl help.

Thank you

Popper252

Wow... hmm, you could have a bad seal on the bearings in the engine block. If that's the case i don't know how to fix that. Maybe someone else on here with more engine experience could help you?
All I know is that there are a few bearings that the crankshaft slides into and that's what seals up the front of the engine. If you've got a leak there you may have to change those bearings. I've never even taken those things apart before just because I've been scared to mess with the seal.
Can you still get the engine to run fine? Or is only the priming that you're having trouble with?

If all else fails you could buy one of these and just attach it to your fuel line:


Here's the link for it on [link=http://cgi.ebay.com/Thunder-Tiger-PD1594-Fuel-Primer-Pump-For-MTA4-M-GT_W0QQitemZ140007511100QQihZ004QQcategoryZ19168QQ ssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem]eBay[/link]

You can probably find it cheaper than that. Just go to the rc section on ebay and type in primer and a whole bunch should pop up. Good luck man.

lucasdon17

Thank you for all the input. That fuel primer, i did not knw one existed like that !! What a great place this is !!

I tried cleaning the fuel tank and it seemed to prime just fine.

Hope that was the only issue and not what i originally thought leak near the crank gasket.

I am now battleing to tune my engine. It does not sound like it shuld. When i accel more, i feel its starving ( it cuts off ) and when i open needle a bit more, its pretty sluggish !! Eventually before i hit peak winter here in NH , i hope i would have figured it out and ready for the next summer i guess !![&o]

thank you

jguitarsandcars

well, The LHS didn't have the HPI, or the Traxxas clutch spring, he gave me a Hot Bodies that he said "should work". It was about 1/4" longer, a little thicker, with a lot more tension than stock, but stayed within grove (except where the clutch pin's were). Finally got a chance to take it out today...Not sure if it's the new fuel, or the stiffer clutch spring, but she ran a tad warm, although I had it extremely rich by the time I was done tuning...Oh yeah, and she was a lot more sluggish, but I got to run another 2 1/2 tanks of fuel before I did a spectacular barrel roll where I saw parts go flying...Gear mesh was good, I cleaned it up real good when I took it apart. Oh yeah, I was playing around with things 'cause it sat a little low for my gravel driveway...The spring spacers that came with my son's Stadium Maxx fit awesome, and worked well, except I had the medium one's on his, so I had to try it with either very little, or stiff (I opted for the stiff...probably helped with my barrel roll's...LOL)...Thanks again for everything guys.

{GBI}Harryball

Barrels rolls are the best. I love doing them with my volcano.

jguitarsandcars

I can say I was honestly surprised by the durability of my syclone. I have a narrow gravel driveway that drop's off on one side into tree's and a house on the other, some more gravel for parking in back, and a "nice" hiking trail going up a hill through some woods till it peaks out at the town hiking trail...a couple high speed misses where the driveway dropped off, and I got too far off to bring it back in, a few head on's down this hill into tree's, and a couple barrel roll's ending at the log's that keep the real cars from backing into tree's or off the little drop off, and the only problems I had was a rock getting stuck between the steering linkage and the frame, and the last one (I stopped thought it was worse than it was), where I saw parts flying and it turned out to be just my exhaust pipe...

{GBI}Harryball

Hey Guys, I have a vocano sv. Love the thing, however i seem to have another problem the vehicle will start, but when i give it gas it doesnt want to move. I think its a gear problem, but i want to be sure.

Thanks in advance.

Popper252

Haha I think you may have just stripped your first gear. Congrats and welcome to the club

{GBI}Harryball

I figured as much, are redcats more prone to this or is this just a common occurance with nitro cars? I guess its time to take the thing apart. O, one more question, are there any metal gears available or am i stuck with the composite?

Thanks,

jguitarsandcars

I'm keeping my mouth shut about the stripped gears...I guess I'm too superstitious...LOL...Although I'm trying to see what I can figure out for better gears...

jaanpla

Hey everyone, I have a question for all of you. I am a newbie to nitro and am still learning so I need help. RC is a Tornado XP.

I read somewhere on here something about making sure the piston is down after I am done running the car. My question is how do I check for that and if it is not down, how do I get it to go down. Probably an easy answer for the pros but for a noob like me it's not

Thanks in advance guys.

bluecaka69

take the glow plug out and turn the flywheel you can see it when you flip car over almost right under enginecounter clockwise untill it hit bottom

adrian2007

hello whats the best radio and servos for redcat volcano stx

bluecaka69

man do a search there is like 20 pages pf good info here there has been like a least 5 post regarding radios i just dont know were there at so search see what you get

DoZois

what does (hsn) and (lsn) mean

chubbysuncle

It's on the first page. HERE! look .....[&:]

adrian2007

hello whats a good radio for volcano stx give me your opinion adrian

chubbysuncle

How many times are you going to ask the same question? How many different threads have you posted this same question? The Volcano comes with a radio system installed. It works just fine for me. Go buy a Spektrum DX 2 channel for about the same as you spent on the truck. I'm pretty sure thats a good radio. Please from now on look around like Bluecaka said. AND if you have a question you can't find an answer too just ask it ONCE!

adrian2007

how many times it takes to get a correct answer

ehroof

go to tower hobbies and look at the futaba radio's. there are some for less than $50 that are good, they come with transmitter, reciever and 2 servo's, the 2pl i think,

the guys are right though, this has been talked about at least 100 times in the forum.

nbluehell

i replaced my clutch spring last night with one that i got from my lhs. i tried to get the traxxas spring but the guy said they where out of them and gave me some other brand, maybe mpi? and said its the same thing. my question is how tight sould the spring fit around the shoes? the new spring is a little smaller in diameter then the original and a 16th inch longer. it fits...tight. it seems that it will require some mighty hi centrifical force to spread those shoes. is this ok?

Popper252

Yeah it should be pretty tight. Remember these engines will do 25,000 rpm when they're tuned right so there is tons of force those springs are fighting against.
With my stock springs it's pretty hard to pull the clutch halves apart. So you should be in good shape.

nbluehell

yea ok. thanks popper.

chubbysuncle

Here's a post on the insides of the front or rear differentials on your 1/10 Volcano or Buggy. It's all pics so it'll take 2 posts I think. A couple of notes I didn't make in the pics are the fact there is a small shim washer between the drive cup and the front bearing on the drive shaft side of the trans (like the washers on the clutchbell). Don't lose it. I'm only posting on the differential itself not how to get it out of the car or truck. Just remove pieces till you get it out and remember where they go. Take only 1 out at a time and if you get stuck use the one still in the car as a guide for reinstallation. They both come out basically the same. Put all the screws in a cup so you don't lose any. Here goes....

chubbysuncle

Here's the finished product. Also the installation of o-rings that were in my Volcano when it was new and got beat out. They cushion the dogbones and take out the back and forth "slop".

EDIT : I added a pick of the spider gears removed showing the lower bevel gear. The only way to remove the drive cups from the diff is by removing the c clips on the bevel gears.