NightHawk18

sorry i didnt see the pic, i will try this

thanks Jared

chubbysuncle

I was able to get in there with a 14mm open end wrench. It's kind of a biatch to tighten but it can be done. Be sure to hold the smaller aluminium gear tight with your finger while you tighten it. When that spur gear goes order PN? 08013. When you get it Tighten the nut all the way and be sure to use blue locktite. In fact Blue Locktite any screw that goes into aluminum! Good Luck!

NightHawk18

thanks alot, ill go dot hat right now

jared

NightHawk18

Hey thatnks for all the help now i was just wondering what is the average running temp for this car? thnaks alot jared

chubbysuncle

Keep it under 300 degrees. I use an infared temp gun pointed right at the glow plug. Just tune the engine for the best performance with visable smoke from the exhaust. The temps should be good then, around 250 to 280. An air leak can cause the temps to go way up and over 300 the car will just not wanna run right. You'll feel the heat. Make sure to bring your piston to it's lowest position( AKA: BDC) during cooldown.

NightHawk18

Alright new day another question, I was driving my volcano sv and i noticed that it was getting louder are luder but i looked and no gears were stripped, so i sat there and looked around untill i felt exhaust coming from my i belive gasket cover where the exhaust and engine meet? So it melted off and i am running without and exhaust pretty much. One why did it melt is my engine way to hot? and second part is it bad not to have my exhaust connected cause it sure does sound nice.

lmk Jared

chubbysuncle

You need the exhaust sealed. It may sound nice be you'll get better performance with it connected. More importantly, the small hose from the exhaust pipe to the fuel tank is what supplies the pressure to push fuel to the carb. When you have a leak in the exhaust the pressure decreases and you start to run lean at high RPM. That = overheating=meltdown![X(] There is a post on the forum that has the P/N's of HPI gaskets that work. I think they're in the Compatable Parts post. Make sure that manifold is sealed tight to the engine and use Blue Locktite on the bolts.

Team Knowitall

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXN376&P=ML <<A875

Cas_NitroGT

ok I know it don't really look the same... but it still fits... because I bought some and it comes with screw spacers to tighten the screws more...

http://www.hobbiesr.com/tra/tra-513/tra3156.htm

http://www.hopupplanet.com/shopcart....ic=jodrlpesdne

JohnSBellJr

hello,
i have a tornado xp. i was driving it the other day and i drove it on the road for 30 ft. and suddenly the buggy stopped i my engine reved. one of the gears in the transmission stripped.
[:@] .... i took a picture of the gears and im not sure what to order and where from.. i found a complete transmission on redcatracing.com but also some gears..... im not sure which gear to buy or even if i can replace just the gear that is stripped. (the taller gear)
and also, could it have been a rock that got in there? my motor doesn't seem like it shifted.... and if was a rock can i cover that hole on the bottom?

please help!! i would really appreciate it.

-john

gundamjake

It all depends on how much hassle you want to go through in repairing the car. If you get the fully assembled transmission all you have to do is take the old one out and put the new one in, which is about a 10 minute job. If you get the gears you have to take apart the transmission, replace the gear, and then put the tranny back together. Now, you will learn a lot about your tranny if you get the gear and replace just that, which is probably something that you should do at least once, just to know how much of a pain it can be. As for what caused it to strip out, it probably was something that got stuck in there, be it a rock or small branch or something. I would keep the hole in the bottom open, because while it allows stuff to get in, it also allows stuff to get out. As for getting the tranny try www.topspeedtoys.com they are a great site that has all the parts for the redcat and himoto cars.

JohnSBellJr

are those called throttle gears?
thanks

bluecaka69

ya the one you stripped is the 47 th throttle gear

JohnSBellJr

so what is the smaller gear?

bluecaka69

42 th throttle gear

chubbysuncle

If you replace the gear by itself, be aware that that larger gear has a One Way Bearing in it. The new gear P/N 06032 DOES NOT come with the OWB. You must push out the one from the old gear and reuse it in the new one. It MUST be installed properly. You can put it in wrong. It's not really that hard to rebuild the trans if you take your time. Maybe I'll be posting a 2 speed trans rebuild tomarrow.

bluecaka69

You Can Do It CU you make the best repair posts ive seen

chubbysuncle

LOL I'm off tomarrow and it's supposed to rain so I'll go hide in the garage and pull the Tornado trans apart! I'll be sure to use that Macro!

JohnSBellJr

YES! Please do!!! i ordered a new transmission and new gears for the old one. figured i would try to rebuild, and have the new one just in case [8D]
Also i heard a "cling clang noise" before i shut it off. clutch bad too? or is that normal?

thank you guys for all your help.
-john

chubbysuncle

If you haven't read thru this whole thread from page one please do. You've got the trans out and the car will be "in the garage " so why not check out the other stuff? Pull the engine and check your clutch and spring. See how it all fits together. Take a pic if you think you may forget how it goes back together. The first page has most of the clutch and 2 speed stuff. I'll post something tomarrow.

bluecaka69

here that popper just for you HAHA

Popper252

giddyuperic

Dear Chubby Kudos to you. You do so much to help others just thought I would give you A pat on the back and thanks for all of your help. See ya in the dust!!!!!! syclone .18 / topeda pro .28-p SH/ rapida .19/ and some heilos ect,ect

chubbysuncle

Try Again..[:@]

chubbysuncle

Redcat Trans 101. two speed Tornado transmission rebuild.
First remove the upper chassis plate.

Then remove the engine. It makes everything much easier to reinstall. You should see this.
Now remove the thumbscrew from the brake linkage and leave the arm attached to the trans. Now remove the 4 screws holding the trans to the chassis.
Now just lift out the trans and don't loose the dogbones. The longer one goes to the front, shorter to the rear.

Once it's out clean it off good. Then looking at the front of the trans ( opposite the brake) remove the grub screw holding the front drivecup on. Then remove the 2 screws holding the 2 body halves together.
Now you can remove the front half and remove the larger(1st) gear and One way bearing. The One Way Bearing (OWB) should be snug/tight in the larger gear. You'll need to reuse it if you're just replacing gears. Clean it good and NO oil. It needs to be installed properly for the trans to work. You can see in the pic that the rounded end faces the flat side of the gear. The OWB p/n is 02067.
Now remove the drivecup on the brakeside of the trans. Then slide the shaft out that has the 2 way drive clutch and smaller 2nd gear on it yet. Loosen the grub screw in the center of the 2 way drive clutch and slide it off the shaft. Then you can slide 2nd gear off.
The bearings in the trans are P/N 02139. They are the same ones used in the clutchbell and the outer wheel bearings. Now about the 2 way drive clutch that won't shift. If you remove the adjusting grub screw all the way you should find these pieces. Don't lose any pieces. Clean the clutch body out and see if the clutch tab swings out freely like this. It should swing in and out of the body freely, if not clean it more and oil it, whatever, to get it so it does. Once you get it working well put the ball and spring back in, put some Blue locktite on the grub screw and just tighten it in just below flush (about 5-6 turns on mine). If you're replaceing 2nd gear press out the old bearing and put it in the new gear ( or replace it) and push the tiny steel pin in the new gear too. Now slide the new gear on the shaft with the tab facing out. Slide your super clean 2 way drive clutch back on with the raised center side facing out. Smooth side toward gear. Tighten the center grub screw making sure it goes on the flat spot on the shaft. The gear should spin free in BOTH directions. Here I've opened the tab to show how it should engage when it works right.
Reverse the order to reassemble. Slide the shaft with the 2nd gear and clutch into the brakeside and reinstall the brake drivecup. Use Blue Locktite on the Grub screw and be sure it's on the flat of the shaft!
Slide the new 1st gear on with the OWB properly installed. Raised hub side out. slide the other half back on and reinstall the screws.Don't overtighten the 2 long screws holding the halves together. It's only plastic. Install the front drivecup. Leave a 1-2mm gap between the housing and the cup. Use locktite and make sure it's on the flat. The trans may be snug and not free spinning at this point, but at least it's back together. Put the trans back on the chassis. Get the mounts in place and try to spin it now. It should spin free now. Also the drivecups should spin when you spin the larger 1st gear upwards away from the chassis.
Well I'm beat now. I hope I got it all right and the pics work out OK.