Engine stalls
#1
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From: wampum, PA
Hey guys,
I got a Tornado XP about a week ago. I'm new to the nitro cars but have been in RC for about 18 yrs. Maybe you guys can help. I got my engine broke in well, and am trying to tune it. I'm havin trouble with it stalling at WOT after it revs up. It gets to that point nicely then stalls. I looked at all these threads and did everything recomended. I tried richening it up and looked for air leaks (about ten times), lol. I've only been adjusting the high speed needle and idle adjustment screw. Is there a low speed adjustment screw that I'm overlooking. These manuals arent reral clear. Any other suggestions would be appreciated. Oh, and about the gear stripping problem. When I used to race electric cars, We'd take apart the gear box and use a real fine file to clean up any burrs or rough spots on the gears. I did this to mine and used the paper method to space my gears when i put it together. I got about 7 tanks in so far and no wear is noticeable at all, although Ive only been on flat ground so far, at least til i get it tuned. I did have my own little hiccup though. My right front shock blew its oil everywhere, and this was on road driving, I didnt even hit a pothole yet. Anyone know what shocks I can use as a direct fit thatll work better.
Thanks,
Pyro
I got a Tornado XP about a week ago. I'm new to the nitro cars but have been in RC for about 18 yrs. Maybe you guys can help. I got my engine broke in well, and am trying to tune it. I'm havin trouble with it stalling at WOT after it revs up. It gets to that point nicely then stalls. I looked at all these threads and did everything recomended. I tried richening it up and looked for air leaks (about ten times), lol. I've only been adjusting the high speed needle and idle adjustment screw. Is there a low speed adjustment screw that I'm overlooking. These manuals arent reral clear. Any other suggestions would be appreciated. Oh, and about the gear stripping problem. When I used to race electric cars, We'd take apart the gear box and use a real fine file to clean up any burrs or rough spots on the gears. I did this to mine and used the paper method to space my gears when i put it together. I got about 7 tanks in so far and no wear is noticeable at all, although Ive only been on flat ground so far, at least til i get it tuned. I did have my own little hiccup though. My right front shock blew its oil everywhere, and this was on road driving, I didnt even hit a pothole yet. Anyone know what shocks I can use as a direct fit thatll work better.
Thanks,
Pyro
#2
Here is poppers post from the tuning and faq thread. Its helped me, and my XP rages.
Probably one of the hardest things to do when you first get into this hobby is learning how to tune your engine. One of the problems I first had when I got into nitro was simply realizing what everything was and where the adjustment screws were. Well anyways, here's a picture of the adjustment screws.
The following are what the factory settings are incase you ended up tuning things to the point where the car won't start anymore:
High Speed Needle (HSN) - Turn the screw all the way down (clockwise) but don't tighten it. Then unscrew it 2 1/2 to 3 turns (Counter Clockwise).
Low Speed Needle (LSN) - Should be flush with the collar.
Idle Screw Adjustment - Take off your air filter and make sure your throttle is at idle. Then make sure that the opening in the carb is about 1mm.
Hope this helps. If anyone wants to add anything to this feel free to.
Probably one of the hardest things to do when you first get into this hobby is learning how to tune your engine. One of the problems I first had when I got into nitro was simply realizing what everything was and where the adjustment screws were. Well anyways, here's a picture of the adjustment screws.
The following are what the factory settings are incase you ended up tuning things to the point where the car won't start anymore:
High Speed Needle (HSN) - Turn the screw all the way down (clockwise) but don't tighten it. Then unscrew it 2 1/2 to 3 turns (Counter Clockwise).
Low Speed Needle (LSN) - Should be flush with the collar.
Idle Screw Adjustment - Take off your air filter and make sure your throttle is at idle. Then make sure that the opening in the carb is about 1mm.
Hope this helps. If anyone wants to add anything to this feel free to.
#3
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From: wampum, PA
OK, got it goin grerat then hit a stop sign in my yard. Now i need A arms, dogbones and the shock that was leakin oil anyhow. I broke the A arm and bent the inner rod of the shock and a dogbone. Didnt think it had that much guts. Man, this buggy flies. Also, four more tanks and no signs of wear on pinion or spur gears. Check my first post to see how I avoided thse problems so far, and keep the engine mount screws tight. Who can recomend a dealer in my area to get my parts quicker than ordering online? I cant wait to run again. Also I still wanna know what shocks are a direct fit, if any, also any aftermarket A arms and dogbones, lol. I have a couple close hobby shops, but they dont carry redcat. And for all you redcat skeptics out there, if you keep your buggy maintained right, they seem to be great. My buddy has a T-maxx and has had more trouble than I ever did. I didnt even know he got into Nitro, havent hung out since high school. I guess Ill be seeing him more ow that the two of us have something in common again.
#4
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From: Carlsbad,
CA
I dont think anyone knows of dealers in specific areas, unless they live there. But ordering online is very easy, and pretty fast if you ask me. Most hobby shops dont cary reddcat parts anyhow.
www.topspeedtoys.com
www.clermontmotorsports.com
Are to 2 great sites.
Gotta watch out for those stop signs, they can really do a number to your car
www.topspeedtoys.com
www.clermontmotorsports.com
Are to 2 great sites.
Gotta watch out for those stop signs, they can really do a number to your car
#5
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From: Clermont, FL
www.clermontmotorsports.com thanks for the referal but you spelled it wrong haha..
#7
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From: Risingsun,
OH
Pyroman 27 I just bought Tornado xp and got them yesterday in mail. The cars are for my dad and I. We both are newbies at this and would like to now how you did that to your gears if you don't mine. I sure I will need all the help I can get. By the way were exactly is the low speed needle? I would really like to now your trick, have not even tried starting it yet. Thanks for your time Greg
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From: Glenwood, NJ
Please read the Redcat repiar and FAQ post before you startup your new cars. There are many posts here on this forum that answer alot of questions. Welcome to the forum. Use the search button up at the top right of the page and search the Redcat forum for answers to commonly asked questions. Here's a link to the FAQ[link]http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_4207842/tm.htm[/link]
#9
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From: wampum, PA
Its actually very easy, take apart the gearbox being careful to place your parts on a towel in order so u can get it back together. It helps to have a good light and a magnifying glass. Just take each gear and inspect the teeth, if u see a burr or a rough spot, just use a very fine file on it, and go lightly, u dont wanna weaken them anymore, just clean them up. And be sure to wash everything, let dry and lube it lightly before putting it back together. Cut a strip of paper (regular notebook type) put it between the clutch bell gear and spur gear or gears whichever the case may be. slide the motor towards the spur gear until u can just rotate the gears with the paper on them. If the paper binds it up, it is too tight. Be sure to keep the motor square in the ounts also. And keep an eye on the screw, cuz if they get loose, goodbye spur gears. I not only did mt clutch and spur gears, I also did this to my front and rear diffs. Still need my parts, but i got the other ones epoxied, Im ordering the new ones tonight and Ill be able to give the fixed ones a run tomorrow. Look out stop sign, Here I come. Oh, and the low speed mixture screw is on the side of the carb, iti is encircled by the throttle levers housing.
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From: Risingsun,
OH
Thanks alot for the infor. I keep telling my dad just to be patient . I want to get this right, everyone says, read ask ? read some more ask more? So thanks alot and for replying so quickly. Greg
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From: Risingsun,
OH
Sorry but one more thing. What do you guys think of the Tornado xp been reading a lot of bad things. I hope it wasn't a bad car selection for myself. It actually looked better than a lot of the other cars. Anyway just wondering. Oh chubbysuncle thanks for the FAQs infor.
#12
ORIGINAL: glk420247
Sorry but one more thing. What do you guys think of the Tornado xp been reading a lot of bad things. I hope it wasn't a bad car selection for myself. It actually looked better than a lot of the other cars. Anyway just wondering. Oh chubbysuncle thanks for the FAQs infor.
Sorry but one more thing. What do you guys think of the Tornado xp been reading a lot of bad things. I hope it wasn't a bad car selection for myself. It actually looked better than a lot of the other cars. Anyway just wondering. Oh chubbysuncle thanks for the FAQs infor.
Ive had mine for a while now. And can say its a pretty good nitro. The problems that most people complain about are from lack of knowledge or just plain fear. If you are mechanically inclined youll be just fine. One more thing, if you break it you can fix it. The parts for these buggys are not that expensive, so if you break it buy two the next time just in case.

O, one more thing, once you get it dialed in, these things fly
#13
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From: Risingsun,
OH
thanks Harryball for the encouragement I am mechanically inclines but this is my first rc. It really cant be to different than my 2 stoke banshee avt. Have a good one., Greg
#14
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From: wampum, PA
Hi everyone,
Just wanted to let you know, I epoxied my A-arm for the time being. straightened the shock and the dogbone, and had my car out again today. It's still runnin great, a little wear on the spur and its because the teeth on the clutchbell are rounding off. I know its in here somewhere, but if someone can put the link for the threaded 2 speed clutchbell in here, Id appreciate it. Im gonna order some new spurs cause I know that day is coming, and I wanna see how long they last with a good clutchbell. I'm about 30 tanks into the sport, but i think this is the best. Iv'e run my RC10 for years, but all I can say is I cant wait to breath some of those NITRO FUMES, MMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMM. Im already lookin for another car, either a for backup or I'll keep the XP for the backup.
Just wanted to let you know, I epoxied my A-arm for the time being. straightened the shock and the dogbone, and had my car out again today. It's still runnin great, a little wear on the spur and its because the teeth on the clutchbell are rounding off. I know its in here somewhere, but if someone can put the link for the threaded 2 speed clutchbell in here, Id appreciate it. Im gonna order some new spurs cause I know that day is coming, and I wanna see how long they last with a good clutchbell. I'm about 30 tanks into the sport, but i think this is the best. Iv'e run my RC10 for years, but all I can say is I cant wait to breath some of those NITRO FUMES, MMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMM. Im already lookin for another car, either a for backup or I'll keep the XP for the backup.
#15
ORIGINAL: pyroman_27
Hi everyone,
Just wanted to let you know, I epoxied my A-arm for the time being. straightened the shock and the dogbone, and had my car out again today. It's still runnin great, a little wear on the spur and its because the teeth on the clutchbell are rounding off. I know its in here somewhere, but if someone can put the link for the threaded 2 speed clutchbell in here, Id appreciate it. Im gonna order some new spurs cause I know that day is coming, and I wanna see how long they last with a good clutchbell. I'm about 30 tanks into the sport, but i think this is the best. Iv'e run my RC10 for years, but all I can say is I cant wait to breath some of those NITRO FUMES, MMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMM. Im already lookin for another car, either a for backup or I'll keep the XP for the backup.
Hi everyone,
Just wanted to let you know, I epoxied my A-arm for the time being. straightened the shock and the dogbone, and had my car out again today. It's still runnin great, a little wear on the spur and its because the teeth on the clutchbell are rounding off. I know its in here somewhere, but if someone can put the link for the threaded 2 speed clutchbell in here, Id appreciate it. Im gonna order some new spurs cause I know that day is coming, and I wanna see how long they last with a good clutchbell. I'm about 30 tanks into the sport, but i think this is the best. Iv'e run my RC10 for years, but all I can say is I cant wait to breath some of those NITRO FUMES, MMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMM. Im already lookin for another car, either a for backup or I'll keep the XP for the backup.
www.topspeedtoys.com give them a check. These people are great. Prices and shipping are more than fair. While your there check out some of the hop up parts.
#16
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From: Newmarket,
NH
Hi ALL
My engine dies right away when i open the gas tank to refuel. WHats goin on here.??
I changed the fuel line but still its the same.
Few days back, the small screw on the aluminium exhaust where the tube from the gas tank connects few off but i sealed it pretty fine.
PL help
My engine dies right away when i open the gas tank to refuel. WHats goin on here.??
I changed the fuel line but still its the same.
Few days back, the small screw on the aluminium exhaust where the tube from the gas tank connects few off but i sealed it pretty fine.
PL help
#17
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From: Los Angeles, California,
CA
ORIGINAL: lucasdon17
Hi ALL
My engine dies right away when i open the gas tank to refuel. WHats goin on here.??
I changed the fuel line but still its the same.
Few days back, the small screw on the aluminium exhaust where the tube from the gas tank connects few off but i sealed it pretty fine.
PL help
Hi ALL
My engine dies right away when i open the gas tank to refuel. WHats goin on here.??
I changed the fuel line but still its the same.
Few days back, the small screw on the aluminium exhaust where the tube from the gas tank connects few off but i sealed it pretty fine.
PL help
Hey Lucas,
You say you sealed the hole on the exhaust pipe???
The fuel line/hose that goes from the exhaust pipe to the gas tank is what what makes pressure & pushes fuel through the other
fuel line to the carb.
Maybe I did not understand..... and you put niple thing back on the pipe and sealed it?



