RedcatRacing

Hi all,

We are in the process of testing a few units here but I have also sent all the information from this forum to the factory.

We should have an answer in the next few days regarding this and we will come up with a fix for everyone that is having this problem.

Darin

shadow21

My Feedback: (4)

Thank you. Im going to try all of the above but if this doesnt work idk what to do. Im already 300+ into this truck and i cant even play with it. Thats just what pisses me off. If it was something that im doing wrong to the truck i wouldnt be here saying there was an issue. I know this is a hobby and stuff DOES break but not every 20 minutes. Like i said before something is off. I dont see how you guys are just saying "we havent run into this problem and we have driven this truck before" well obviously we have proof that it isnt only my truck. So what are we going to do about this? Should i just call it quits on this truck, sell it and NEVER buy anything from Redcat? Or will you guys investigate this issue and make your customers happy? Im down for whatever you guys decide to do. Its your reputation on the line not mine. If you let us down there is a TON of people on this board that you may make stray away from your company if you neglect this issue.

shadow21

My Feedback: (4)

Thank you Darin. Im sure we will all appreciate your help and concern!

RedcatRacing

This is exactly why forums are great.

We have spent the last few hours trying to figure out why we have not been experiencing this issue. I myself own a Landslide and have not had the issue so when this first bubbled up on the forum we started to look at the ones we have and use here.

So after looking at our UltraLites, pulling some out of the warehouse that are brand new and digging for other Ultralites that might have come in from a different batch than current, we were surprised to find something very interesting.

As you can see in the pictures below, the pictures show different length drive cups. It seems that we received some vehicles with one length drive cup and others with the shorter ones. The shorter drive cups are the ones we have used in house and my own Landslide and the longer ones seem to be where the problems are generating from.

If you are having the issue with the broken dogbones due to wear, please check the length of your drive cups from the pictures below. If you find yours are the longer ones, email [email protected] and he will take care of you. If you have the shorter drive cups and have this problem let Mike know as soon as possible.

Thanks

Darin

shadow21

My Feedback: (4)

I sent you an email with two pictures mike. Its showing how things are wearing. Its only doing that on the drive side not the wheel side. I also noticed that my front center shaft is starting to wear down like that as well. I havent got a clue guys. I really want to trade this thing for an avalanche or something.

drum_n_man

There is a problem when the suspension is compressed not extended. If you compress the suspension and turn the wheel you can clearly see the bogbone rubbing the inside of the cup. I knew my droop was good so when I torn down today to clean I spent a couple of hours on the rear. On mine when the suspension is compressed, the dogbone will fall out no problem, so I first cut fuel line and put in there. That problem solved. Next thing I did was to be sure the droop was ok. The dogbones are just under straight. I had a dogbone with absolutely no marks on it. I spun the nut on the hub with a drill on low speed for a couple minutes. No marks. Then I started to play around with the shock adjustments and that was when I noticed the dogbone binding worse than I would if I ate a pound of cheese[:@] (I would assume that's where the bent ones come from). Then with just turning the hub by hand with the suspension compresses marks around the dogbones showed up[X(]. I can't get back out to the garage to measure the cups until tomorrow so I have no idea if that is the reason I found what I did. I don't want anyone at Redcat to think I was ever to the point of F-off just that it is frustrating as I'm sure you know. It also makes things worse because we are not right next to you with our trucks showing you the problem and you have idea if we are just idiots trying to find a hole in the ground and calling it our *****. Thanks for the help and I'll get my measurements tomorrow.

Rick.

shadow21

My Feedback: (4)

I just hope something becomes of this. I know im not bashing this truck or anything. I just drive it in my yard. No holes or hills to hit or jump. I really like this truck. Its a ton of fun for all of 20 minutes till it breaks. I havent even used half of a freakin quart in this thing since i got it 2 weeks ago. Urghhhh! I still cant figure out why the fronts bend and the backs just round off at the little ball at the end of the dog bone. I know why the ball comes off of the fronts. That would be happening because they warp and just grind off. Come to think of it! Monday when i received the new dogbones and installed them. I just drove the truck up and down the road till the lug nut flew off. I noticed that the front was a little warped but the others werent even worn a bit! BUT! Here is where it may get interesting. Yesterday i did do a few donuts in the dirt then about 5 min after that is when they broke. So maybe you guys should try doing donuts for a while to see if they break or to see if they wear. However that still doesnt explain why the front dogbones bend just driving up and down the road.

drum_n_man

It's got to be because of the suspension compression. Wheel off and suspension compressed it becomes very obvious. In a doughnut one side will compress and the other extend. Droop set proper its won't rub on the extended side but the compressed side is gettin murdered. The front is binding so bad that it bends the bone. Has to be the answer.

shadow21

My Feedback: (4)

UPDATE! Ok so i was investigating what drum told me about it binding the suspension was compressed. Sure enough he was right. I shimmed the things out took the wheels off and compressed the suspension in the rear. It travels WAYYYYYY too far for this setup. it binds on the axle cups when the suspension is only about 1/2-3/4 compressed. No matter how i shim it out it either binds on the drive side or the wheel side. Ive tried bump stops with fuel tubing on the shocks but id have to shim it out a whole inch. That wouldnt be fair because im LOSING an inch of suspension travel and there is NO GURANTEE that will work. The only thing i can see to fix this issue is to revise or modify the axle cups. They are just wayyyyy too long. Im sure we can take JUST enough off of them to where it doesnt bind and wear the axles down but yet it will still have enough play in there for the axles to never fall out OR make the balls on the ends bigger and have the holes in the axle cups bigger to make them fit. Either way this isnt going to be an easy fix. I may be able just to grind here and there with a dremel and make it work BUT i doubt ill get it to work without losing suspension travel. As for the front im still not sure where and how it binds up. I gave up working on this thing in the Kitchen. Ive got to do this in the garage where ill have room and my dremel. I suggest you guys stop putting this truck on the market until this issue is fully resolved. I still for the life of me cant figure out how you guys havent run into this problem yet unless you guys do straight driving on a very smooth surface. I will do more investigation tomorrow when i get to the garage. It may or may not work. I just seriously think the ball ends need to be bigger or something of that nature.

BTW! During the break down process of my rear suspension i noticed that the little white tabs in the droop arms that hold the shafts in place were installed incorrectly causing the rear droop arms to be out of square. ALSO there were some metal shims missing in the droop arms. Now that ive looked at the tabs in the front they are faced in the upward position causing the upper A arms to be off level. Is this stuff supposed to be this way? I havent put the wheels back on the back but before i did notice that they were very crooked and im not sure if they are supposed to be that way.

RedcatRacing

The factory has all the information regarding the issue and we will have a reply with fix by Wed of next week.

Thanks for the info and keep it coming.

darin

shadow21

My Feedback: (4)

So does that mean that you guys have finally experienced this issue?

RedcatRacing

We have reported it to the factory and we will be doing some more testing this weekend to try and recreate the exact problem you are having. I have seen some slight rubbing on the dogbones but nothing like you all are talking about so to get more people involved along with the factory engineers I have sent them details of the forums posts and they are on it.

Darin

drum_n_man

I've got decent travel on the suspension but not where I would like it to be. By adjusting the droop as low as possible and then moveing the shock mounting points down it will limit the upward motion. I haven't got my parts yet to test this but it seems to be a good way. The only problen I may run in to is one of the cups in the rear got damaged last time the bone broke.

drum_n_man

Take off the spring and wheel to check it with the suspension compressed. If you can't see it then check your eyes it's very obvious. I'll try to get pictures tomorrow.

shadow21

My Feedback: (4)

Ok im going to try to modify some things on my end and see if i can get it to work. Only thing is. If these things keep breaking during me trying new stuff and testing stuff out ill just be throwing money away. I bought 2 sets and it costed me like 33 bucks shipped... So should i wait this out or try to modify it to see if i can make it work and IF i do get it to work tell you guys what ive done and you guys can replace the 3 sets that have broken?

Thanks,
Johnas

shadow21

My Feedback: (4)

I did that to the rear without removing the spring but the wheel was off. Once the suspension was 1/2-3/4 the way compressed it literally moved the hub cup so at that point i tried rotating it with my finger and it got stuck in the notch. So after the bump stop idea i used roughly 3/8'' of fuel tubing then i compressed it to where it hit the stop and spun the crap out of it with my cordless impact drill.. Lets just say metal went flying everywhere. The notches in the hub cups is whats killing it. Its like running a saw through wood with mine. And as i stated before. i put a smaller piece of tubing on the dif it wears the dif side. If i put the smaller piece on the wheel side it wears down that side. There is no happy medium with this setup. Its just a simple mistake. Its a new product and i understand that things go wrong. Maybe you guys changed something from the proto type to the production model.

drum_n_man

Almost seems like a "because i said so answer" my teachers use to say isn't it shadow?

shadow21

My Feedback: (4)

Any update?

drum_n_man

UPDATE: Pizza for dinner!

shadow21

My Feedback: (4)

Here is my update. I worked on this thing till 2AM this morning. The only way i was able to keep the rear dog bones from rubbing so much was to adjust the camber on the wheels to where they are touching the outter edge of the tire when its sitting on the ground and also i had to use the bump stops on the shocks. I didnt find any binding on the front so i dont know wny they bend up there. NOW this is whats really pissing me off. I wake up this morning to go drive the truck. All goes well for about 15 minutes then the truck just starts revving like crazy as if the dog bones broke again. So i grab the truck and checked all of the dog bones they were still there but the rears are still wearing. Come to find out the plastic gear that connects to the clutch teeth is stripped. This truck is going to be one friggin problem after another. The landslide that i received must have been the biggest piece of crap that your assembly line has ever produced since you guys arent experiencing these issues. I have about 4-5 SOLID tanks run through this truck and lets just give a run down of all the problems. 3 sets of dog bones, the gear and a lug nut flew off. Seriously redcat can i please trade this thing for something else? This just isnt fair. This truck will be two weeks old this coming monday and i havent even gotten but a total of about an hour out of this truck.

drum_n_man

I had the spur gear strip too but I found out after it was just too tight and had no slippage to it. If you put a bigger piece of tubing on the wheel side than on the diff side it might be better but again I am waiting for my parts to see if it works. My wheels are about even camber wise and the tubing is holding the bones in place with little or no play at rest. Get the Himoto MegaP spur gear to replace yours. Can't be any worse. http://allaboutfunhobbies.com/store/...oducts_id/1655

Redharris

Hi Folks....
I have had a few folks look me up on Pal Talk and PM me to ask if the Landslide parts are interchangeable with Himoto parts.
I am not overly familiar with the Landslide but I can tell you that it is Not the Same as the MegaP series from Himoto.
I am sure that Darrin and Redcat Nick would be quick to tell you the same thing if you were to ask them.
I would not want folks to buy MegaP parts only to find out that they wont fit the Landslide..
(Wade, I KNOW you did not SAY they were the SAME, but apparently some folks got the impression that they MIGHT be, and I am just trying to clear that up.)

drum_n_man

the two use the same transmissions/spur gears.

shadow21

My Feedback: (4)

I hope everything comes through for tomorrow as promised. Im sick of looking at this truck sitting on my stand being a trophy.

drum_n_man

got the new bones today just need to put them in. have a bunch of other stuff comin for it too.