tornado bb (engine?) problem!!!
#1
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From: Elkhorn, WI
ok, so i got a tornado bb for my birthday today. and i broke it in and all, then i lifted it off the ground and did high speed. then i put it back to idle, then out of nowhere the RPM goes really high on me and the wheels are spinning really fast. then in a scramble to pinch the fuel line, i accidentally touch the part that is connected to the muffler (which is REALLY hot), and burned myself. then after all that the engine shut off by itself. Then, i started it up again.... and the car started up amok....... then shut off right when i took out the glow starter. I brang down the throttle trim on the transmitter, but that didnt help at all, it still spun the wheels really fast. then i set the idle needle, but i can barely even find out if that works, cause now, when i take out the glow ignitor, the engine just stops.
PLEASE HELP ME!!!!!!!!!by far, this has been THE WORST birthday ever
and plus, i didnt do anything wrong here....i ran it perfectly normal...
PLEASE HELP ME!!!!!!!!!by far, this has been THE WORST birthday ever
and plus, i didnt do anything wrong here....i ran it perfectly normal...
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From: San nicolas, ARUBA
Hi and welcome,
I am a newbie but I will take the chance and post a reply because I just was in this situation also.
Sounds like you are running to rich, you will have to set the needles to factory settings and start tuning from there.
Factory settings the needles are; LSN (low speed needle) flush with the collar this is the screw on the side of the carb (look at image below) HSN (High speed needle) 2 1/2 turns out tighten (clockwise) the screw until it reaches all the way in (do not tighten hard!!!) and then loosen it out(counter clockwise) for 2 1/2 turns. (look at image below
Hope it helps
I am a newbie but I will take the chance and post a reply because I just was in this situation also.
Sounds like you are running to rich, you will have to set the needles to factory settings and start tuning from there.
Factory settings the needles are; LSN (low speed needle) flush with the collar this is the screw on the side of the carb (look at image below) HSN (High speed needle) 2 1/2 turns out tighten (clockwise) the screw until it reaches all the way in (do not tighten hard!!!) and then loosen it out(counter clockwise) for 2 1/2 turns. (look at image below
Hope it helps

#4
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From: Elkhorn, WI
yeah but will this fix the not starting of the car? cause i dont have a t wrench, and dont wanna pay for one. i think i might need a new glow plug for, that.... but ill have to test your idea choopz
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From: Elkhorn, WI
UPDATE: now, the engine just starts up bwarrr then stops right away..... it shouldnt be the glow ignitor, cause when it started the engine before, when i took the engine out, iat would stop. so pretty much, it wont even start anymore. could it be the plug? also, when it starts for that short second, it heats up... so it overheats too. i have no idea what the problem is, right now everything is at factory settings
#7
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From: Elkhorn, WI
yes.... thats what my problem was in the first place.. it was set way too high... and now it stops right when i take the ignitor off, and im guessing its the plug... i have another plug that works for .18 engines... its just that i dont have a t-wrench... but i dont wanna spend like 8 dollars on one.....
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From: bloomington,
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it didn't come with a wrench when you got the car?
normally, you get a whole tool kit when you buy the car.
if the glow plug is bad, the engine won't start at all. the glow plug either works or it doesn't (like a lightbulb).
it still may be running too rich...too much fuel getting into the engine. while the ignitor is hooked to the glow plug, the plug will glow and be able to get the fuel burned. remove the glow plug ignitor and there may be too much fuel for the engine to burn by itself. these motors run on compression, the glow plug is just to get it started and help build a little heat in the motor.
is the linkage on your servo going to the carb set up right?
if it isn't the servo will actually pull the carb closed past your idle setting and kill the engine.
you have to set the idle with the idle screw on the carb. not with the trottle trim in the radio.
on the carb linkage, loosen the little hex stopper thing, and pull the carb arm all the way closed with your fingers ( move it towards the rear of the car) and then tighten the hex stopper thing back down.
that may not be the problem but it's possible.
normally, you get a whole tool kit when you buy the car.
if the glow plug is bad, the engine won't start at all. the glow plug either works or it doesn't (like a lightbulb).
it still may be running too rich...too much fuel getting into the engine. while the ignitor is hooked to the glow plug, the plug will glow and be able to get the fuel burned. remove the glow plug ignitor and there may be too much fuel for the engine to burn by itself. these motors run on compression, the glow plug is just to get it started and help build a little heat in the motor.
is the linkage on your servo going to the carb set up right?
if it isn't the servo will actually pull the carb closed past your idle setting and kill the engine.
you have to set the idle with the idle screw on the carb. not with the trottle trim in the radio.
on the carb linkage, loosen the little hex stopper thing, and pull the carb arm all the way closed with your fingers ( move it towards the rear of the car) and then tighten the hex stopper thing back down.
that may not be the problem but it's possible.
#9
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From: Elkhorn, WI
no... dont think im running rich.. i did everything choopz said, and that didnt quite work, because if i left the glow plug ignitor ON IT AT ALL TIMES, the engine WOULDNT die, but since i cant quite run it with it on, im in a bit of a cucumber here. i say cucumber, cause its about to be a big pickle, since there is still hope on the subject(?), but nothing has worked so far.[8D] but enough with the happy, this is a serious problem for me, and i havent even fully broken it in yet! i reaaaaaaly need help on this.... ive tried just about everything here, i think it could be the glow plug? The reason why im not trying that right away is that i dont have a t wrench or anything that could take out a glow plug for now. so im just making sure... if people say it is... ill buy one.. (which i don't want to really do) but if i dont... money well wasted if I bought one. so yeah... help plz
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From: bloomington,
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you will eventually need a glow plug wrench because glow plugs do go bad. you will eventually have to change it out anyway.
but like i said, it will stay running with the ignitor on it because at that point the glow plug is glowing red hot and allowing it to burn the fuel. if it is too rich, the compression of the engine can not burn the fuel without the glow plug being "lit up".
the glow plug will either light up or it won't so if the engine will run, the glow plug is working.
if the glow plug is bad, the engine will not run at all.
i may be wrong but it sounds to me like it's running way too rich.
do you have a way to check the engine temp? engine temp will tell you if it is too rich or too lean.
this is what worked for me when i broke my engine in because at first i had the same problem that you are talking about:
turn the lsn (the one that's on the carb by where the fuel line goes in) in until it stops (do not over tighten it). back it out 3 full turns.
set the hsn (the one on the side of the carb by the linkage) so that the screw head is flush with the collar that it screws into. set your idle screw so there is a 1 mm gap in the carb. (have your radio and the car turned on when you do this. set your throttle trim on the radio to 0) take the air filter out and look into the carb. on the carb barrel you will see a hole in it. this is where the 1 mm gap should be.
when you are breaking in your engine you want it to run rich because the extra fuel helps lubricate the new piston and sleeve. it probably will not sit there and idle for the full tank of fuel. you WILL have to bump the throttle now & then to keep the engine from loading up with fuel.
if i were you, i would invest in the t wrench and a few new glow plugs because you will need them eventually. actually, the glow plug that comes in the engine isn't the best anyway, and going with a different brand is a good idea. if you have the vx 18, you can run the OS A3 glow plugs in it.
running a nitro r/c is ALOT different than running an electric r/c. you have to be fairly mechanical and you must have knowledge on how the engine works. you must also be familiar with tuning carbs. because you will have to tune, re-tune and re-tune some more of the weather changes.
there is alot more maintanace and set up running a nitro car. it isn't like you can fuel it up, pull the starter and start running it every time.
they are finiky and slight changes in weather will have you re-tuning the carb. to make it run right.
1/2 the fun is getting it to run right.
i have noticed tho with mine, now that i have ran 3/4 of a gallon of fuel through it, and the weather is somewhat stable now, i don't have to rte-tune it every time i run it.
eventually it will stay tuned, but it may need a tweak or 2 here and there on occasion.
but like i said, it will stay running with the ignitor on it because at that point the glow plug is glowing red hot and allowing it to burn the fuel. if it is too rich, the compression of the engine can not burn the fuel without the glow plug being "lit up".
the glow plug will either light up or it won't so if the engine will run, the glow plug is working.
if the glow plug is bad, the engine will not run at all.
i may be wrong but it sounds to me like it's running way too rich.
do you have a way to check the engine temp? engine temp will tell you if it is too rich or too lean.
this is what worked for me when i broke my engine in because at first i had the same problem that you are talking about:
turn the lsn (the one that's on the carb by where the fuel line goes in) in until it stops (do not over tighten it). back it out 3 full turns.
set the hsn (the one on the side of the carb by the linkage) so that the screw head is flush with the collar that it screws into. set your idle screw so there is a 1 mm gap in the carb. (have your radio and the car turned on when you do this. set your throttle trim on the radio to 0) take the air filter out and look into the carb. on the carb barrel you will see a hole in it. this is where the 1 mm gap should be.
when you are breaking in your engine you want it to run rich because the extra fuel helps lubricate the new piston and sleeve. it probably will not sit there and idle for the full tank of fuel. you WILL have to bump the throttle now & then to keep the engine from loading up with fuel.
if i were you, i would invest in the t wrench and a few new glow plugs because you will need them eventually. actually, the glow plug that comes in the engine isn't the best anyway, and going with a different brand is a good idea. if you have the vx 18, you can run the OS A3 glow plugs in it.
running a nitro r/c is ALOT different than running an electric r/c. you have to be fairly mechanical and you must have knowledge on how the engine works. you must also be familiar with tuning carbs. because you will have to tune, re-tune and re-tune some more of the weather changes.
there is alot more maintanace and set up running a nitro car. it isn't like you can fuel it up, pull the starter and start running it every time.
they are finiky and slight changes in weather will have you re-tuning the carb. to make it run right.
1/2 the fun is getting it to run right.
i have noticed tho with mine, now that i have ran 3/4 of a gallon of fuel through it, and the weather is somewhat stable now, i don't have to rte-tune it every time i run it.
eventually it will stay tuned, but it may need a tweak or 2 here and there on occasion.
#11
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From: Elkhorn, WI
k guys. another update. i went out for like the whole day... and got a spare glow plug (i had another one already... i just got one just in case![8D]) and i installed it into my buggy..... unfortunate thing is its like 10:00 pm righty now.. too dark out to run.. so ill test and update int he morning. if it works.... well thanks for helping and trying to. If not.... well.... i guess i could stay here awhile lolz oh yeah... and like rob said... i got an os plug... 7 bucks. wow. didnt think it would be so much for one little thing like that... but it just looked so shiny and clean and new... i just had to take it home. yeah its an os a3... probobly one of the best out there for a vx 18? yeah im positive this will work... its just gotta.
#14
Not without major modification to the chassis, new motor mounts, new exhaust manifold, modification to the throttle linkage, new exhaust. You can put a[link=http://allaboutfunhobbies.com/store/catalog/]Traxxas 3.3[/link] in with a few mods, linkage and a motor mount modification to the stock motor mounts, traxxas exhaust manifold and flywheel and your good to go. No chassis drilling.
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From: pensacola, FL
yes i got a tornado bb and i have just replaced the piston and the sleeve and it wont start now but im not sure if i have the piston in correct can anyone help me and let me know how it goes in. thanks for the help
#17
if it stalls when you take the glow ignighter out its probly a bad glowplug replace it and it that doesnt work. reset your needles to factory and try it out. if that doesnt work its probly the idle adjust the idle screw untill youve got a 1mm/1.5mm gap hope that helps



