novabill

I have started measuring and drawing plans, but I have been slammed at work lately. I am not verry good with the cad stuf and since it,s already built, I cant photo document the steps. If anybody wants the scetches, PM me with a fax # and I'll get them out soon. Maybee someone could take the scetches and post them.

I have more than 30 flights on her with no failures or signs of wear. I did break a motor mount, but redesigned it and have'nt had another problem. With the foam glued into the fold, the LE seems less prone to wrinkling doinks and cartwheels. The webra .50 is way more than enough power for this plane and I am thinking of adding some expo to the throttle to allow a few more clicks of throttle to soften up the midrange.

I have been doing tons of flying with this plane and it is a ball. I will keep you guys posted

William

mnrcaerobat

My Feedback: (197)

I will get a fax number to you. I have to figure it out. I am still looking for the Fence post insulator. I have been too busy also to look for it. The place I thought would have it didn't. Friday we are traveling to Iowa and I should be able to pick one up there. I looked at foam yesterday and will pick that up next week. What is the thickness that you used?

msm9724

Hi novabill, that spad looks awsome!!!!!!! How do you compare it with a balsa fun flY?

Marcelo

novabill

mnrcaerobat


3/4" insulation white foam double thickness. If you cant find EFI, let me know. I will gladly ship you a 48" length in return for the help you offered with the plans.

It does not glide, but does not break. I love balsa fun-flys and wil never give them up. This is the plane that that gives me confidence to fly the balsa like I stole it.

I am working on a true 60 size coro fun-fly floater that will nok-ur-sox-off, just five me 45 days.

Thanx for the intrest

William

mnrcaerobat

My Feedback: (197)

Is the fence post a step in type? Molded of UV resistant polyolefin. 8 wire holders. 48" length.

mnrcaerobat

My Feedback: (197)

My Spa3dt does not glide either.

So for the foam, I can just buy the white poly foam and glue it together? What type of glue did you use? Would the 3m super 77 work out? I could use some liquid nails, but that stuff is heavy.

I am getting excited to build this thing. Next week I have a break and will hopefully be able to get it done along with taxes and my honey do lists. Maybe I should just shoot for getting it started next week.

I will try to post pictures as I build this plane. I just have to find that post. Otherwise you may have to send me one.

JuniorPilot

i used the foam in the j fold on my 60 sizer one it's realy good with the j fold! much nicer i found anyways go to home depot and just get 1" think pink foam cut and glue into place i would suggest epoxy

Daddyo57

My Feedback: (15)

Awesome Airplane Bill!!!! Ya done good! It has my vote for the best looking SPAD out there[8D]

novabill

It is 1x1-1/2 with a 1/16" ridge running up the side that has to be trimmed off.

The foam is glued together with pro-bond. I use a woodpecker to poke tons of holes on the glue surface of the coro (thanks Deadeye for that tip) and use the pro-bond on the foam to coro also. the wing is held on with two #6 sheet metal screws and goop. Thick CA works great on the CF that runs through the flutes of the coro.

William

novabill

mnrcaerobat

Your EFI will be there thurs. Get the rest of the stuff ready and it will only take you an hour or so to finish it.

William

Emmitt

I'm still trying to figure out how you have the profile fuse on it. Is the fuse and vert. stab all one piece just notched and slide on the pipe over the wing? This plane looks great. Is the chord the same as the spa3d plans, but with the 40" ws ? I have had a piece of the fence insulator from tsc for a couple of months, now I have a use for it. Are you using dual elevator servos?

novabill

emmitt,

The fuse and rudder are one peice and has a 1.5" cut out down the centerline that stops at the rudder hinge. It is then slid over the fuse and notched at the wing. For support, 5/32" CF rod is run through the flutes and through holes drilled in the fuse and pass through the flutes on the other side. As for the measurements, PM me a fax # and I will send them to you. I am not real good with the CAD thing, so I have them drawn up and available to anyone who wants them. I am using a single elevator servo that connects to a bellcrank that runs through the fuse with a bellcrank on the other end that connects to each elevator half.

William

novabill

I had a couple P.M.s from people wanting a little more info on the build process and thought I'd post my reply

The rods are .156 and that equates to 5/32. You do'nt have to use a pull-pull on the rudder, I just thought it was cool. I have all the rudder I need at appx 50 degree throws and I have never doubled up on the coro. It is plenty strong with one layer of 4mm. Go to chrisspad's website and borrow his fuse drawing for the coro-edge. Then, figure how long you need it. (front of fuse at edge of motor plate and rudder hinge at the end of EFI fuse) work out the percentage to enlarge and take it to the UPS store and for $3 you'll have a perfect outline. Or, print it and use to freehand the fuse like I did. Remember this spad stuff is all TLAR (that looks about right) on the rudder, just make it big and make it extend down to the bottom of the coro fuse, so you are getting rudder above and below the horizontal stab. Drill the aft stab hole 1/8-1/4 from the rear of the fuse and the front one to fit the front flute of the stab half. The elevator part of the stab hangs behind the fuse. With the extra 10 or so SQin on the stabs and extra inch on the fuse, I think yours will fly better than mine and that's hard to inagine. It's funny you mention encasing foam in coro for the fuse, because this is the construction method for my next plane. It will add alot of complexity to the build and 4mm would not be a good idea for the skins. It will be a 60" span with airfoiled wings that plug in. But, hey let's get through this one first. I will provide you with the bellcrank diagram shortly and as for hardware dor it, use only 4-40 threaded rod and ball links and sockets. Mine has too much play and will be converted to this.
Build the wing first, and make sure you put the wing inside to dry. I left mine in the garage for 4 days at 38 degrees and it never cured. One day inside and it was hard as nails. When tou have the two foam peices laminated for the wing spars, sand a leading edge in them and figure out where you want a compartment for your rx and batt. The coro wont perfectly follow the LE of the foam when dry, but will be close. Please dont try to glue it without really woodpeckering the coro surfaces to be glued. This is the secret to having a strong joint.
While the wing is curing, finish the rest of the plane. What I do, is make all the rest of the parts. I mount the motor to the mount, put a prop on it and collect a fuel tank. Make your servo cut-outs in the fuse and mock-up the stabs. When the wing is cured, slide it on (This will lift the coro slightly at the cutout, dont worry) and slide in the motor/mount assy. and rubberband the fuel tank on. Balance at 6" form the LE for starters using the wing to achieve balance. Oh, the filler peice for the motor mount is also made from poly with two screws countersink to attach itto the mount. Here's my theory,the rudder and horns and pushrods and tail skid will make up the weight of the LG and screws. It worked for me and the RX and batt offset the servos for the wing. To perminately mount the wing, put a generous ammount of goop on the wing where it meets the fuse and slide the fuse through from the back of the wing and wipe off residue goop with mineral spirits. Use two #6 screws with pvc backers one at back and one up front.
For hinging the elevators, hinge like you normally would. That's all for now, let me know if you need more help.

William

P.S. Emmitt, did you get the fax?

mnrcaerobat

My Feedback: (197)

Here is a shot of my progress. Sorry about the white plane and the white background. I just wanted to show my progress. I have been taking lots of pictures and will do my best to document my build through this forum. I have decided I will be using an MDS 48 with a mousse can muffler. Should be a good combo. More to come. Busy weekend with my son's baptism so be patient. Thank you Novabill for the post. I got it yesterday.

mnrcaerobat

My Feedback: (197)

It's coming together.

steener

i was wiring some lights at an ACE farm and home and they had the EFI in several lengths. dont know if this is because it was in the sticks or not. just fyi

novabill

Hey man, it's looking good,

What's the eta on the maiden flight?

mnrcaerobat

My Feedback: (197)

I am going to shoot for next weekend. I have it built. I did get the bottom of the wing covered and plan to cover the top as well. Then I mainly have to install my radio. My building has been halted for the weekend by my wife.

novabill

mnrcaerobat,

Are we there yet, Just checking in to see if you got her finished and maidened.

William
Pro-Bro 540

mnrcaerobat

My Feedback: (197)

I completed it last night. I just need to get my lateral balance better and wait for the wind to die down. We have had two days of strong winds. Hopefully my wife will let me sneak out in the morning. I did mount a Saito 72 on the nose of this plane. I should be able to get some pictures, dimensions, and build sequence/tips up soon.

novabill

I think that is an awesome engine for the plane. For the lateral balance, try this. If you need to add weight, use lead pinch weights for fishing make a slit into the foam at the wingtip and slide weights into it until you achieve correct balance. Then close the gap with a little pro bond. I still havent got the lateral balance perfect on mine yet and this is the method I was going to use. I was flying in 30mph winds the other day and having a ball, when something happened and I lost most of my aileron authority. I got it down unscathed and discovered I had stripped a servo. I was so proud of myself that I could violate a plane so bad as to strip a gear during flight.lol

William

mnrcaerobat

My Feedback: (197)

Here is a picture of the wing cutout. It is made with 4 mil cloroplast. Novabill's original Spa3dEFI used a 40" wing, but I went with 38" because that is all I can get into the trunk of my Taurus.

The flutes run in the 38" direction. Cut out a piece of cloroplast 38 or 40" x 26" for your main wing. Then crush all of the flutes in the 6" to 7.75" area with a straight edge and phillips screwdriver. When that is done, cut out the center of this area 1" x 1.75. This is where the fence post will slide through.

Next, cut in your aileron hinges five inches from the bottom. From there, make your 2" x 5" cutout and trim your aileron tapers. I also installed a .156 (5/32") piece of carbon fiber rod in the second flute up from the aileron hinge line.

Now woodpecker holes into the area 6" above and below the crushed flutes for glue bonding your foam to the wing.

Cut two pieces of 1 1/2" thick foam to 18.5" or 19.5 inches by 6". This is going to be glued into the area that you just woodpeckered and make this wind stiff. You can laminate two pieces of 3/4" foam, but make sure you woodpecker these as well. Woodpecker the pieces of foam before gluing. This allows the glue to get into the pieces and keeps it from coming apart. I also rounded the leading edge of the foam to help it round out the leading edge. I used sandpaper and a 1 1 /2" pvc fitting that I cut in half.

Cut a piece of fence post to 35 3/4". The fence post is available at most farm and fleet stores, and may be found at ace. Then, cut off the 1/16" extra jagged edges on the one side. I used my table saw. Lined it up, set the fence, and ripped it off. I drilled some holes and woodpeckered the fuse where It was glued to the foam and wing panel. I will provide the measurement shortly in another post. I am away from home and do not have my plane here.

Once all of the above is completed, I used some probond glue with poly in it and glued the foam to the wing and fence post. This glue allows you ample time to position everything and bonds very well. Once I had the position I liked, I placed the wing and fence post on a flat surface (in a warm area), and piled books on top of it and went to bed.

Now go out and get your supplies and I will put the fence post measurement on here after dinner. This will take a couple of hours.

Tomorrow, I will try to get picks and dimensions for the profile fuse, and tail surfaces.

Novabill, let me know if I missed anything.

novabill

I think you are doing a better job of explaining it than me. Thank you for posting the step by step. I cant wait to hear how it flys.

William

P.S. I have started the planning stages for the next one. Do you have a .60 size engine laying around?

mnrcaerobat

My Feedback: (197)

No, I don't have any 60 size.

mnrcaerobat

My Feedback: (197)

From the front of my fence post to the wing is 2 3/4". This measurement is clarification of a previous post regarding wing placement on the electric fence post insulator.