coro

I am trying a new technique for a generic FW-190 war bird. I use Gutter Pipe as the core, which gives an excellent wing cradle, engine mount area, and flight pack housing (just like the reg gutter pipe machines).

For some "War bird looks" I am taking it one step further. Based on a 1litre Ammonia bottle cowl, I (2sided) taped some foam bulkheads to the gutter pipe. The bulkheads taper towards the tail. Add some FW-190 tail feathers...
The gas tank will be mounted 1/2 in the gutter pipe, above the wing, leaving lots of room for the aileron servo in the wing below.
This will all be followed by a 2mm coro wrap.

I am using a generic wing for now (it was laying round the shop) and will build a FW wing soon.
More to come...

lecrote

My Feedback: (1)

It look very good and promising to me.

Did you cut the foam with a hot wire or just with a knife???

thanks

Dan

ChrisSpad

I built my corocap that way - it makes a great looking plane. Getting the 2 mil to wrap around is a pain. Plan on slitting the flutes where it bends.
http://users3.ev1.net/%7Ecdjump/main...p/gallery.html

lecrote

My Feedback: (1)

Chris and Coro,

Any comparison on the technique that you use on your first fw190.( with stringer)
Easier or harder.

Thanks

Dan

bent

Coro
Looks good, the possibilities are endless when you design using foam with coroplast. I think you're going to have a tough time with the cg on this one. Short nosed, radial engined designs require careful planning to keep the weight up front. Some of the techniques I use on my WWI coroplast planes are; lightening holes in the tail feathers, pull pull instead of push rods, hollowed out foam aft of the trailing edge, wrap foam in sign vinyl instead of 2 mil coro, throttle servo in front of the firewall, rudder and elevator servos and battery directly behind the firewall. Sometimes even all that isn't good enough to get the cg where I want it. As a last resort on a scale airplane you can lengthen the nose and/or move the wing back. Best not to add a bunch of nose weight if possible. Keep those fighters coming!

Gary

coro

Bent: Thanks for the CofG tips. i already moved The wing back 1.5 inches and plan to put the battery right behind the firewall. I am gong to put an OS .35 up front and can extend ot forward till she balances. May require more lightning holes in the tail, I hate adding weight.

Lectrote: I am finding the gutter and foam easier. With the old profile, bulkheads and stringers, it gets tough to mount all your gear and still retain the fuse strength. With the gutter pipe you have a natural shell, and you can drill lightning holes all over when you are done. I am finding the foam easier to work with too. The two sided tape really grabs it, and its easier to cut with bandsaw or knife). Once i get the coro wrap on it will be really strong (going to use 2 sided tape for that too). I will cover the seams with vinyl sign tape (strong stuff, and fuel proof).

I also plan to do the color scheme with vinys sign stick on. All my other planes loose the paint when the fuel comes in contact with it.

slitting the coro wrap where it bends is a must do. since this is a radial style fuse, I slit every 2nd flute (actually remove the entire one side of the flute)

MrGreenSpeed

Awesome technique.
Can't wait to see the finished plane and flight report.
Jeff

scooty

I really want to start getting into foam. Could you please post a pic of whatever it is that you used to cut and shape the foam?

Digital Aerial Photo Guy

I'm very interested in the damping characteristics of your ply-foam-ply firewall. Do let us know how that works out. (gotta camera to consider...)

coro

DONE!

DAP guy: the ply is just to shield the rest of the plane from fuel etc. There is a Very sturdy piece of plactic cutting board behind the ply, screwed into the Gutter Pipe. The engine mount screws go through the ply and into the cutting board. Should be rock solid.

Scooty: I just used insulation foam boards, and cut it with my bandsaw or excacto knife. I also sanded a bit. You don't have to be too precise if you are putting a coro wrap over the whole thing.

Enjoy the pics...Hope she flies

coro

A couple more pics...I have a FW-190 Canopy comming too....

I.C.O.N.

My Feedback: (1)

Nice Work!

lecrote

My Feedback: (1)

The only things that I have to say is

WOW

With your permition I will print that one for our annual club show at the mall.

I will try to promote spad with great looking spad and my spad.

Great work

Dan

MrGreenSpeed

SWEET!

coro

Lectrote: Sure, promote away, you have my permission...I will try fly it tomorrow....

lecrote

My Feedback: (1)

Another thing.

I'm thinking of a hybrid method.

The profile fuse with foam former instead of coro, warp in 2mm coro.

Just an idea

Thanks

Dan

coro

Lectrote: please include pictures of this technique.

Once you wrap the fuse with coro (2mm is best) the whole thing becomes incredibly strong. Our old technique (stringers and coro bulkheads) was alarmingly weak (like a floppy fish) till we glued the 2mm wrap on. The wrap itself, as you may well know, is a whole different beast. To get a 2D piece of coro to conform to a 3D airplane is tricky. I usually wrap the fuse with many overlapping piece of paper, taping them on, then cut the paper skin off the fuse along the belly (like gutting a fish).I use this paper skin as a template for the coro skin. I usually make 2 skin halves, a left side and a right side. I also cut a few darts into the paper skin to help is in areas that have to curve quite a bit. Once you cover the seams with vinyl tape (sign shop stuff) it is almost impossible to see the seam.

Good luck, let me know how it goes...

coro

I flew the FW yesterday. flies great, handles excellent. This "radial" style fuse can easily be used as a bearcat, Zero or Corsair. Just build the wing and tail feathers for the kind of airlpane you want..

Movies to come...

MrGreenSpeed

In My opinion this technique brings the coro fuse to a new level; truly awesome.
I'm glad the maiden flight went well.
Thank You for the info on applying the 2 mil skin.
I'm also very interested in the profile foam fuse that lecrote referred to.
Jeff

RC-Captain

I agree and it will not be long before a RC airplane manufacturing company catches wind of it and tries to make a million dollars off of the ideas being shown .

scooty

Hey coro.. When you wrap the 2mil around the fuse do the flutes run lengthwise along the fuse or the other wayaround ? Do you remove every other flute
or so to make it wrap easier?

lecrote

My Feedback: (1)

I don't know if I will try my idea as far as the one involve in that plane (FW) is more promising with powerpack (powercartridge)

I have discuss about that with uncov and my next plane will have one that I'm thinking right now.
As far I can't afford many flight pack (only 2 for now) I consider powerpack in the future.

BTW wich glue is better to glue foam to coro and foam to pipe?????

Thanks for al the great info

Dan

Turbobeaver

Hi Lecrote.Try water based contact cement.It is sometimes marketed as solvent free contact cement also.It is strong as hell,doesn't stink(the Mrs. or significant other will appreciate that),won't attack the foam,is cheap to buy and is compatible with Coro as well.Just make sure you degrease the surface area of the Coro that is to be glued by wiping it down well with a rag and either Acetone or Lacquer thinner before you apply the contact cement..Scuffing up the contact surface with some sand paper will also improve the strength of the bonded surfaces as well.This has worked like a charm for me for quite a few years now.

coro

Scooty I wrap lengthwise. The coro acts like mini "I" beams. V strong.
I remove every 3rd flute where the curve is subtle, and every other flute where the curve is pronounced.
Some guys just slice the flute. I actually remove the one side of the flute for a better looking wrap.

I use 2 sided tape to join the wrap to the foam, and to join the foam to the Gutter Pipe. I use the tape with a very thin membrane (not the foam type).

koopster

Coro,
Amazing job! Great new technique for sure. What is the brand, width etc of the two sided tape you are using. I have had a few in the past that did not stick all that well, so I was real surprised to see you have one strong enough to hold a war bird together.
Thanks Coro, I think you have created the Spad version of a "composite" construction.

Koopster