Omaha_RC_Flyer

Here are a few shots of my Smokin USS. I followed the [link=http://www.rcuniverse.com/magazine/article_display.cfm?article_id=455]How to article by MinnFlyer[/link] Total cost about $30.00! I'm using a windshield washer fluid pump, and MDW Super Dri smoke oil. I was able to get some video of it with my standard 8mm Camcorder. Once I get the video transferred to a CD/DVD, I'll try to post it.

Later,
Omaha

acam37

My Feedback: (16)

I think smoke is awesome. When you post the video can you show us the interior layout? Also I would really like to see that coro field box that is in the 3rd pic.

Omaha_RC_Flyer

Got you covered on the Coro field box. See the thread I started on it. You may want to play around with the measurements to get the size you would like. I'll try to get a photo of the interior layout posted for you later on.


Later,
Omaha

Omaha_RC_Flyer

Acam,

Attached are a few photos of my smoke system layout. I have to use hemostats to clamp the line on the outside of the fuse (muffler line) when I fill the tank or part of the oil will exit out through the pump to the muffler line, which in turn, wastes oil. Once clamped, the oil will only go so far, while the remainder of the oil fills the tank, until it empties out the vent line.

The smoke pump is powered by a 4.8 volt pack, while the RX is powered by a 6.0 volt pack. If you use a windshield washer pump, make sure to run a tank full of oil through it before you install it, using a 12 Volt power source. Just pump it back through the vent line like a closed loop system. It really gets everything seated and working, before dropping the power to the lower 4.8 volt pack.


Hope this helps,
Omaha

Omaha_RC_Flyer

A few more photos!

Later,
Omaha

ChrisSpad

i'll tell you a secret about smoke - but, use it at your own risk. You can install a line from the crankcase into a one way valve - pointed so that the "out" side is pointed to the smoke tank (just like the exhaust setup on your glow engines), and then out of the tank, into a dubro cutoff valve, and elliminate the pump altogether - however, if you don't use a very high quality tank, the pressure gets super high, and they've been known to explode, and coat the inside of your fuse with smoke oil - with a coro plane, its not really a big deal, but with wood- yuck.
At any rate, your setup looks great - what'd you use for a power supply and cutoff switch? I had a TME smoke pump setup once upon a time - ended up replacing their pump with a windshield washer pump - but using their electronic switch setup. I had more problems with that darned pump than i care to remember. I think i actually got it to smoke a grand total of 3 or 4 times in the air.
Hopefully, you'll have better luck than i did.

Omaha_RC_Flyer

Chris,

I'm using a standard 4.8 volt rx battery pack for power. I connected it to a contact type Micro switch. When I flip a switch on my Tx, the servo horn presses on the micro switch, and the pump starts. When I flip the Tx switch back the micro switch is released, breaking the circuit. (See attached photo for close up view)

As far as wiring it. I soldered the positve motor wire and the positve battery wire to the micro switch. Then I soldered the negative battery wire to the negative pump wire and covered it with heat shrink. (See attached drawing)


Later,
Omaha

Omaha_RC_Flyer

Here is a link to some video I got today of the USS smokin in flight.

http://media.putfile.com/SmokinUSS_0002

Later,
Omaha

WILDCRASHWILLY

What did you use for a check valve between the muffler and the tank, and where did you purchase the valve?
Thanks

Omaha_RC_Flyer

I purchased this [link=http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXG869&P=0]check valve[/link] at my local hobby shop. Make sure to get the one for Gasoline if you are using it for a smoke system. Fourmost also makes a glow version check valve, that is red/white.


Later,
Omaha

WILDCRASHWILLY

Thanks Omaha,

I'm going to try to build one of these.

Gravityisnotmyfriend

My Feedback: (2)

OK, so this plane isn't a SPAD, but the smoke setup was taken from this thread. The pump is a windshield fluid pump out of a junked car and is actuated with a micro-switch from radioshack. I used the same method for a regulating valve as what MinnFlyer suggested. Total money invested is about $8 for the switch and one way valve. I haven't tried it in the air yet as I just got everything plumbed and I just had to try it out in the backyard. I'm really looking forward to seeing this in the air. Thanks to Omaha and MinnFlyer for the plans.

Omaha_RC_Flyer

Gravityisnotmyfriend,

You can regulate the oil flow by running the oil clunk line, after it leaves the tank, through an electrical lug (see photos), before it enters the pump. Mount the lug in a way you can have access to the screw from the out side of the fuse. Turn the screw in, to pinch the line and reduce the oil flow, or turn it out to increase the oil flow. This is what I used at first, but I found that using a 4.8 volt pack delivers the right amount of smoke oil without the need for a lug (to reduce the flow) on my USS smoke set-up.

Later,
Omaha

Gravityisnotmyfriend

My Feedback: (2)

I have a dowel that the line goes thru and a screw that goes into that dowel. I didn't restrict the flow at all and found that it made alot of smoke. I am using a 4.8V pack as well, so maybe I don't need to restrict the flow either. If I find out that I need to change the amount of oil flow, I'll use your method. What I have now can't be adjusted with the wing on the plane. The electrical lug seems like it would be much more convenient.

kd7oir

What is the Check Valve for and where is it placed?
Shawn

Omaha_RC_Flyer

The Check Valve allows the smoke oil to travel in one direction (toward the muffler). If a check valve is not being used the pressure from the muffler would reduce the amount of oil being pumped into the muffler, by forcing it back up through the oil inlet line. Does this help?

The check valve needs to be placed in the oil line attached to the muffler after it leaves the pump. somewhere in between the pump out and the muffler


Later,
Omaha

ChrisSpad

hrmmm, its been a long time since i had a smoke system - especially one operated on crank pressure, but, i'm 99% sure i put the check valve between the crankcase, and the pressure inlet on the smoke tank - else you didn't get any pressure on the oil. It simply pulsed back and forth with the crank pressure.

Omaha_RC_Flyer

I'm not sure on systems pressurized by crank pressure. I have no clue when it comes to those. I was referring to the one like I have on my USS, with a smoke pump (i.e. windshield washer pump).

Later,
Omaha

ChrisSpad

hmm. I've never used the check valve with the pump setup, maybe thats why i had issues with it in the air. lol.

Omaha_RC_Flyer

I don't think the muffler pressure would be enough to reverse the oil flow once it gets back to the pump, but what do I know . I just followed Minnflyer's instructions on the RCU article he did (see link in post #1).


Later,
Omaha

Gravityisnotmyfriend

My Feedback: (2)

I got to test the smoke systems yesterday. It worked and I was pretty happy with the smoke trail I got. My favorite thing to do so far is to pull straight up, hit the smoke and hang on the prop until the plane starts backing up into the cloud of smoke. I still need to work on the setup a little more. First, I was a little dissappointed about the smoke time. I can only get three or four minutes of smoke. I can get a couple more minutes if I fly inverted and I'm not sure why. It might be an issue with the clunk. How much smoke can I expect with a 12oz oil tank? The other issue I have is that I found out the my pump is not self priming. It won't suck oil from the tank if there's air in the line. Hey Omaha, where did you get your pump? Will it self prime? I found a replacement pump at WalMart for about $9, and I might use that instead.

flybug

Hey Gravityisnotmyfriend, what type/brand pump you found at wally-world for that price? Please share.

Thanks

Omaha_RC_Flyer

I do the same thing! It looks cool when the plane falls into the smoke cloud, kind of like an airshow full scale plane. I typically turn my smoke on and off in short spurts. It seems to last longer, than leaving it on for a long time. Plus, by waiting a little bit in between smoking, it gives the muffler a chance the get hotter, since the smoke oil tends to cool it off, if left on for a period of time.

Yes the pump I have self primes. I bought it from a Auto Parts store, for about $12.00, I'm sure the one at Wally World will be similar, but not sure. The one I have is designed to be used outside of the Washer fluid tank, when the factory pump inside the tank, goes bad. Is that Kind of what you bought from Wally World.


Later,
Omaha

flybug

I wonder if this system will fit in my Spadet and work with my .46 size engine? Any ideas on that?

Gravityisnotmyfriend

My Feedback: (2)

Flybug,
I don't remember the brand of pump, it was the only one they had there. What kind of engine do you have on the Spadet? It should work if you have a four-stroke since the exhaust temp is pretty high. If it's a two stroke, it'd be tougher. You would have to wrap a coil of copper tubing around the muffler so that the oil can heat up enough. Even then, it might not work. The other problem is that on a .40 sized plane, it might add too much weight for it to fly very well. If I were you, I would just follow the SPAD mantra and try it and see if it works. You can get all the help you need on this forum.

Omaha,
That's exactly what I was thinking, how it looks like a full scale air show I tried just using the smoke in short bursts, but the pump would lose prime and I would have to land and re-prime the pump to get more smoke. The one I have came from inside the washer tank, so there's no reason for it to self prime. I haven't actually bought the pump that I saw at wallyworld yet, but it sound's like the same thing. I think I will buy it though since the system I have now has too many limitations. It's definitely worth the $9-$12 and it should be a quick fix since everything else is working right.