FantzyPantz

I got the manual for the Aircore F-16 made into a PDF document, and tried to clean up the images for measurements. Just so you know, I did not do the original measurements. I found those files several years ago somewhere. As far as the PDF goes, however, I was able to scan from my original hard copy. I still have 2 original Aircore kits that have never been completed for the Colt and the F-16. Which means I have 2 sets of original templates for SPAD clones.

http://home.comcast.net/~vance.nelso...F16_Manual.pdf

Spadinator

AWESOME!!!!! Thanks for all your hard work

MrGreenSpeed

Cool .
Thanks.
Jeff.[8D]

Byrdman

Thank you for your time and effort.

thinairflyer

My Feedback: (40)

Still flying my Aircore CoroStar II. (Long out of production) First flew it at 7,800' with an OS .46FX, then a Super Tigre .51. Cut about 1 1/2" off the nose and for the last several years have been flying it with a Fox .74 with 12x8 Master Airscrew.

It is one of my favorite planes. It was good with the .46, better with the .51 and is GREAT with the Fox .74! I've had it about 10 years and the only thing that has needed any repair is the rudder hinge and a fix of a small delamination of the fuse just above the wing seat. It is a tough old bird.

All the paint got really rough, so I cleaned it off with acetone and alcohol and trimmed it again with sign vinyl. After all these years it still looks pretty good and flys as good as ever.

upnflyin

I realize its really a streatch but do you by any chance have the plans any more for the corostar?
Had a aircore trainer many moons ago and would like to give this one a shot.
thanks
Al

thinairflyer

My Feedback: (40)

upnflyin, I don't have the plans anymore. They did not show dimensions of the parts as best I remember, just the build sequence.

FantzyPantz

From looking at the picture of the CoroStar, I would think that it looks quite similar to the Colt. The only difference being the rounded tail feathers as apposed to the squared off tail on the Colt.

upnflyin

I built a corostar and had a real bad experience with it but not the planes fault. It was a total loss but I just might have to build another. It was a good looking plane out of coro. I did it when Deadeye was doing the build online a while back.
Thanks for the replys guys.
Al

thinairflyer

My Feedback: (40)

If I remember correctly, the Colt has a flat bottom wing; the Corostar has a symetrical wing and I believe less dihedral. As to dimensions, I don't know, I've only seen pictures of the Colt. Does the Colt gear fasten to the fuse or wing?

FantzyPantz

I have the gear fastened to the fuse just in front of the wing. Using all 2mm, my wing comes out semi-symetrical.

FantzyPantz

Another manual came from Howard for the Aircore Classic 40 "CUB"

You can download the manual from here.

http://home.comcast.net/~vance.nelson/Aircore_Cub.pdf

jerry_himself

From what I see about this plane kit, it's a piece of junk! I've been fighting parts that refuse to align, pieces that are warped almost beyond use and to top it all off, when I called for technical support I got rude person who obviously didn't know the kit.

The leading edge of the wing looks as if the plane has crashed a dozen times and it hasn't even been mounted to the fuselage yet.

Has anyone else had problems with this? I'd like to know and hear from those that have managed to make the plane look decent.

kbear

Send it back! Build A DEB. Let the bliss begin.

Tesla1856

RE: The Wing

A picture might help, but I think I know what you are talking about...

Sometimes, when the factory folds the wing over to put in the box, they end up using more than one fold seam for the main fold (when it should really only be the middle one) Actually, there are 3 separate folds on the leading edge of the wing (to end up with something kinda close to rounded) It's tricky because the folds are against the grain of the flutes. I usually spend some time with a blunt edge screwdriver, ruler, and a blow drier, re-creasing and folding. Redraw the crease lines on the inside with a pencil or pen if you need to.

As long as the pieces aren't torn or mis-cut, they should work. I'm not sure about warped. It's all pretty flexible until it's finished. Even the completed fuselage is a little wobbly until you get the Power Cartridge screwed in there.

RE: Hobby Services

I personally have never had a problem getting replacement parts and warranty service from Hobby Services. If you get a rude person, call back the next day and you will get a nice person.

RE: Building

If you need more help, just ask or check out my website for tips (I have several pages about AirCore). Don't worry too much about the way it looks as long as it's built true, straight, perpendicular, and sturdy. You figure if the SPAD guys can build one from scratch that flies, this is easier because you have all the pieces cut out and most of the hardware.

RE: Flying

The AirCore planes are not about looks, or a light, perfect flying airplane... They are about durability. Now, if you crash badly, they will break, but you can usually fix it, where a balsa plane would probably be a total loss. Also, in a bad crash, because the plane is so strong and heavy (no crumple-zones) it's pretty hard on the engine, servos, and other hardware.

However, I miss my AirCore and I'll tell you why... landings. With a balsa plane, pretty much any thing less than a good to perfect landing on the runway ... you are going to break something. If you leave the runway, you have a pretty good chance of tearing off the landing gear on rough ground or tearing the MonoKote with a bush or plant. With the AirCore, I could land that thing in the grass all day, and make all those beginner landing mistakes, and I never broke anything. Sure, you might bend the landing gear a bit, but it bends right back. And the covering, well we all know how strong that is. As a beginner, it was a good way for me to get some flights under my belt, and not have to put a lot of time into repairs between flights.

ktaylor

hi guys, I am posting this link to get the word out on a fund raiser, I hope you all don't mind
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=4177682

poppy2

I have had an Aircore 40 for some time now in the box. Traded an engine for it. I have just started building it. Just want to be sure of one thing to start with since I have never worked with this coroplast. When I glue two pieces together, do I put glue on both pieces or on just one? The manual seems to imply that I put glue on both pieces, but I am not sure. Glad to know this message board is here. Thanks for your help in advance.

Poppy2

Tesla1856

Yes, apply the contact cement evenly to both sides. Let it dry a little before pressing the parts together.

The included VHS video has some tips for working with the coro and glue for the first time. Even if you don't have the video, there is a little section in the manual about glueing together some scrap pieces to get familiar with it.

poppy2

Tesla1856-

Thanks for the speedy reply. When I traded for the plane, the box was open and I did not find the VHS. Everything else seems to be there. I have been able to fly by myself for about six months now and am having fun. I am also in a club. I have now two Hobbieco Superstar 40 planes and I just liked the idea of making a plane out of plastic. This is going to be an experience.

The gas tank that came with the box is a little different than the tanks I am familiar with. There is no aluminum tubing, just plastic, so I am a little confused with how to put that thing together. I do think that this is going to be a fun project and want to get use to working with plastic with at least a manual to go by. Who knows what I might build after that.

Thanks again for the speedy reply. I have put the PC board together and the wing spar. Just needed to know for sure what to do about the glue process.

I was planing to put an LA 40 on the plane. The manual makes me think I might be under power. I have an OS .46 AX engines on my two trainer planes and sure do like the way they act. What do you think?

Poppy2

jerry_himself

Dont' under any circumstances try to fly the Aircore .40 trainer with a .40 engine. I bought a package that included the airplane, engine and radio/servos. The engine that was included was the OS .40 LS. When I tried to fly the plane, it was so under powered that it flew (if you can call it that) in a constant state of stall.

I've been a pilot for 37 years (both fixed wing and rotor wing) and have flown everything (real not scale) from Piper J-3 Cubs to Boeing 747's, so I know a little something about power to weight ratios, density altitudes and center of gravities.

I should have figured power to weight ratios and density altitudes BEFORE I tried to fly my plane. If I had, I would have known before I ever spun a prop that the Aircore .40 was too under powered to fly.

I complained to the company who decided that I should send my engine back, and they would trade me even for a .46. Hopefully a 20 % increase in power will let this airplane at least get off the ground and be controllable. I'm not sure it will be though. I recommend that if anyone is going to buy this plane that they buy the largest engine they can for it, like the .51.

Tesla1856

Sounds like you are off to a good start in the hobby.

All your questions about glueing and building the gas tank are fully described in the manual. If you didn't get the manual either, you can download the .PDF of it here:

http://www.vlsdynamics.com/rc/planes/us_aircore40.htm

I never tried an .40 or an LA (non-ball bearing ... bushing) engine. I always flew a .46fx (ball-bearing) engine in mine. It flew fine with the .46fx, and would fly at half throttle. However, the plane does come out a little heavy for a 40 size airplane. You will just have to try it. If it works at all, my guess is you will flying at full throttle the whole time.

I've never owned an LA engine, but I've seen them in planes at the field and they definitely do not have the power of a FX or AX (ball-bearing) engine.