Sailor Jerry

My Feedback: (2)

I'm just getting back in to R/C planes after a 14 year abscence. I still have a field box with electric starter, glow plug clip, etc. ,a 4 channel radio with servos and an OS .40 FP engine. I'd like to build a cheap SPAD trainer that I can crash frequently using my existing gear. Can anyone suggest a cheap SPAD? I've considered U.S Aircore's 40 trainer, but I'm looking other options too. Cheap is good and I don't mind building from scratch with a good set of plans. I don't expect my pilot skills to return quickly so I need something that won't won't bring me to tears when it slams into the ground. Thanks in advance.

eagle09tbl

Take a look at www.spadtothebone.com, click on free plans and look under the trainers. The Buhor, Spadet and Deb are all great trainers. Depends on how available spad supplies are to you, but there is plenty of information available to get you started.

I built a Buhor for my first spad and it took tons of punishment as I was learning. I finally destroyed it but I built another that I still routinely fly just because they are fun and relaxing.

Good luck on whatever you decide, and glad to see you returning to the hobby.

mikenlapaz

I second the advise above. Excellent. Here and spadworld.com are both good sites to get assistance from other spadders.

huck1199

Check out spadflyer.com they have a 48" ws 40" fuse kit for about $40. The wing comes pre-built. You have to install your gear in the fuse and go fly. Very durable, I put mine in five times before the fuse needed to be replaced. Good flyer.

mikenlapaz

huck1199 's suggest would get you in the air quicker and save locating all the various things to scratch build the first Spad. Price seems reasonable. Post whatever you decide here and let us see it and hear your comments. Good luck.

Sailor Jerry

My Feedback: (2)

Thanks for the info guys. I'm going to try the spadflyer; you can't beat the price for an ARF. The only concern I have about the spadflyer is that it's a taildragger; I'm a little worried about take-offs with this configuration. Anyway, I just ordered the kit and I'll report back once I get her assembled and flying. Thanks again!

draftman1

you could convert it to a tri gear. check out the debonair build on spadtothebone site. just move the main gear back. you might have to change the motor mount to one that allows the front wheel and add a servo for stearing, hook it up to a Y harness from the rudder

mclina

Here's how I did my last trike, just like Draftman said. I used little eye screws to route the pushrods.

I wouldn't be afraid of a taildragger, though. They are much easier to build and not difficult to take off.

Good luck.

Sailor Jerry

My Feedback: (2)

The engine mount I'm using has been drilled for nose gear (I have the whole assembly, pirated from my old trainer), so I think I'll try moving the main gear back and try to use a nose wheel. I haven't really decided yet...

How difficult is it for a rookie pilot to successfully take-off and land a taildragger? I'd prefer not to have to "kit bash" my new plane (at least not this one, the next one will be a little different).

zertsman

i used dubro molded gear.. clean it well and put on some 2 sided tape to the bottom of the fuse and then support that with zip ties around the fuse and under the gear.. no hole in the fuse required. then if you want a trike, you can move it back and add thenose wheel without leavingany holes in the fuse.

a hard landing can rip out the main gear and take a piece of your fuse with it. this way if it comes off it is just a zip tie and some foam tape. easily repaired at the field. it doesn't look as nice, but doesn't rip a hole in the fuse when it ripps off.

when i screwed my gear on, the support block with the t-nuts in it was in the way of something in the fuse. with zipties, the block is gone. now i'd use nylon bolts, but the block is still in the way.

there are many methods. i think the tail dragger is just as easy, though i have never flown a trike.. all mine are draggers. too easy to build and less linkages to adjust and keep straight.

flossandfly

I built a spad with trike gear and after some rough landings the trike gear needed too much repair. I found that I didn't even need a wheel in the back to have an effective tail dragger. Just the rudder in the prop blast turned the plane fine (unless the wind was too strong). If you put your landing gear forward far enough that the plane doesn't want to nose over once you try to taxi, you will enjoy it and it will be easier (less parts to damage on hard landings)

Sailor Jerry

My Feedback: (2)

I've doing some more reading on this forum as well as on the spadworld forum and I think my Spadflyer will stay a taildragger. I just can't wait for this thing to be delivered so I can start flying.

draftman1

since you have flown before, the taildrager would be ok. I had never flown a taildrager and when I tried mine, it was no big deal. enjoy the spad!!

huck1199

Sailor Jerry

Here are some pics of my recent rebuild of a spad flyer. After 5 nose in crashes I made a new fuse from gutter pipe. I put the servos thru the walls rather than inside with zip ties. With the zip ties they would slide in a crash and break the servo arms. I reinforced the mounting atrea with strips of gutter pipe matterial so there is more meat for the mounting screws. I cut the openings by drilling 1/4" holes at each corner then cutting with a dremel abrasive wheel. So want to avoid square corners to prevent stress cracks. I also mounted blind nuts on lite ply for the wing bolt down. I think my crashes were due to not having keepers on aileron clevises; one always was undone after the crash. At the time I thought it came off in the crash but now I wonder. I use a Hayes 8 oz SL tank; it fits snug with some foam wrap. I am using a K&B .45 Sportster with the spider mount. I use a couple of small washers on top for a little down thrust - the flat bottom wing tends to rise even with zero incidence. Note the tail wheel with some toothpicks glued to the wire - I slip it into the rudder and it works nicely. Note the access hole in the bottom; I use a two inch hole saw and it works well.

Do you sail RC sailboats? There is a local club and I thought about 1 meter sailing. Any info would be helpfull.

Huck

Sailor Jerry

My Feedback: (2)

huck1199,

Cool ideas! Thanks for sharing. I'm really digging that spider mount, where can I get one for my old OS 40 FP? Also, I have a GP 10oz tank, do you think that'll fit in the fuse (plane's not here yet) or do I need to go 8 oz? Thanks again to all have helped me get back into this great hobby.

Oh, and as far as the my username goes, I've never really sailed anything, but I am a Parrothead who may have been 3 sheets to the wind a time or two after a little too much rum (nickname = favorite brand). RC sailboats do look like they might be fun though...

draftman1

the K & B sportster cam with that spider mount. it was a great idea. as far as I know there isnt one availiable for any other brands. Is your plane on its way? have you gone to spadworld.net yet? tons of info on spads.

Sailor Jerry

My Feedback: (2)

The plane is on it's way, but hasn't arrived yet. As far as Spadworld goes, I've been spending lot's of time reading up on spads over there; great board.

draftman1

cool. lets see some picts when your plane is ready.

huck1199

Jerry

The fuse is 2 3/8 sq ID. I think the 10 oz will be too big. I get 10 -12 min flights with the K&B .45 on 8 oz.

I like the Hayes SL tank because it has the 'toe' on the front; it keeps the fuel lines from kinking if you land hard and 'nose in'. Just make sure the 'toe' touches your firewall when installing. This keeps your fuel lines short as well.

Another matterial I just found is 3/4" plastic shoe moulding from Home Depot. This stuff is light and cuts easily. I am using it to mount the vertical stab; it keeps it perpendicular and holds screws well. I'll post a pic if you want to see how I shaped it.

The clear, right angle stuff in the Spadflyer kit is good but it warped over time and I can't find this stock anywhere. Drywall corner saver is too light weight and is a bit too narrow.

Huck

draftman1

I use the dubro 6 or 8 oz tanks, the 10 wont fit. with 46 size the flights are plenty long

Sailor Jerry

My Feedback: (2)

The plane arrived today. I'll get it assembled and get some pics up. I can't wait to get flying.

dmesecher

Make sure to check your radio equipment. Batteries ect. I took about 10 yrs break and most of my radio equip was so outdated it was no good and the batteries were also shot. I fount it better to start over again with new radio equip not to mention the advancements they have made are really nice to have. A little extra now to save the heart ache later agter a possable fly away plane.

Sailor Jerry

My Feedback: (2)

10-4 on the equipment check, I already ordered some new 1100mah NiCd packs for the Tx and Rx; the old batteries were junk.

I started putting the plane together last night and I've got a few questions:

1. I'm really beginning to hate the band on wings. Since the wing doesn't have a dihedral I'm having a hard time keeping it centered when I'm banding it on, plus the rubber bands are a P.I.T.A. Can anyone provide me with some direction on switching to bolt on wings?

2. Right now the plane is tail dragger with no tail wheel. I'll be flyiing off grass, do I need the tail wheel?

3. I'm using an O.S. 40 FP engine, I've been told by a few local guys that it won't be strong enough to power the plane; what do you guys think?


Thanks in advance, I'm sure I'll be back with more questions soon.

dmesecher

I have just finished building a QHOR and I have no tail wheel and it steers and flys just fine without ...

huck1199

Sailor

#1 - They cutout for the equip extends close to the front pegs so it is hard to put blind nuts in to hold down the front of the wing. You will have to put in a crosspiece - I made a crosspiece of poly cutting board and screwed it in from the sides and put two 1/4" blind nuts in aligned just in front of the wing spar. There is some pink foam in this area which will help stiffen up the surface when yoy screw in the bolts. Use big washers under the bolt heads. I used one blind nut on the back - epoxied into a 5/16 hole cut in the middle of the fuse.

#2 -I put a dubro tailwheel on nd it steers a lot better. The elevator was draging in the grass without the wheel.

#3 - I used a K&B .45 Sportster (bushed engine) and it has plenty of power. I am using an 11/5 prop. Your .40 should be OK.