HOOTER

Guys, I am very new to Spad's but when I built my first DPS last weekend I did not have a torch to flame the Coroplast, so I used a orbital sander to sand the oil off the surfaces to be glued and then wiped off with a tacky cloth. I flew this plane last weekend (used 4 mil Coro on the wing wrong configuration on the wing for sure, looked like a long triangle) and three of us abused this plane beyond anything a balsa plane could endure and none of the glue joints came apart.
So this week I am building two more planes using a torch and a woodpecker to prepare the glue surfaces and I am having problems to get them to stick properly. I feel like I am getting all the oil off, so I am thinking about going back to the sander.

Any opinions would be appreciated!!

Thanks,

Hooter

akahoverit

My Feedback: (2)

I'm also new to bonding coro, whats this torch method all about?

MalaysianFlyer

I have tried using mineral spirits, woodpeckering, and flashing.
I found that the best combination for me was to flash and woodpecker the surfaces, then use CA. The CA i am using is unbranded, the bottles come with no labels on them. BUT using this method, when I treid to open the joint, the corro tore before the glue failed.

Of course if you read the other threads on this issue of gluing, not everyong uses the same method. Its probably due to the fact that the actual composition of the corro your are using is different, as its maybe from a different manufacturer, the glue is also different, and then of course personal preference.

I would suggest you try a few methods, then choos the one you feel the most comfortable with. That way you won't be worried about the joints failing during flight.

Hope that helps

akahoverit

My Feedback: (2)

Wow GOOP is good stuff, its messy, stinks and takes a day to dry but it's GOOD stuff, no sanding or preping anything.

RysiuM

My Feedback: (1)

I did some testing. I took two scraps of coroplast and then tried to glue them together (flat surfaces) on the edge line (about 1 inch). I used the following methods:

1. Thick CA drops every 1 inch and clamp it together for one day. Then I tried to split these to pieces. Under hight tension CA finally gave up but didn't peel of from the coroplast - just the CA layer split up. It didn't make any difference if I flamed the coro, or clean it with rubbing alcohol or mineral spirits. Not bad.

2. 3M77. Sprayed two surfaces, waited about 1/2hour and then clamped for one day. Under slight tension for longer time 3M gave up. Never stayed together. Not good at all.

3. Thin CA with tissue insert between coro. The same result as thick CA. CA broke but stayed on coroplast. The only difference is that thin CA dried faster than thick CA. Not bad.

4. Cleaned coroplast with 70% rubbing alcohol and put a layer of Gorilla glue. Next day tried to split. Under the high tension glue gave up but again stayed on coroplast. Stronger that CA.

6. Hot glue. It was difficult to put the glue between two surfaces of coro and keep it hot. But when glue settled I couldn't break it. Finally coro gave up. Hot glue is stronger that coroplast. Very good.

RysiuM

Crash Master

If flashing or mineral spirits don't work for you, GOOP is definately the way to go. It might take a bit longer, but you end up with a flexible joint that will give instead of tearing or breaking like the CA joints might do.

My vote, GOOP!!!

Tattoo

The part I didn't like (tried this over and over for 20 years) is when you pick up all the pieces...the glue is the only thing that held...everything in between was toast

Sorry man...just had to

therotund1

Well, you guys don't know flap, but HOOTER and I do. He was just kidding. One of the nicest guys you'll ever meet. HOOTER and I are gonna convert him, along with the rest of the club, into SPAD-o-MANIACS! That's the plan anyhow, right Jimmy? Only one more thing, whatever you do, don't ask flap if the throttle arm is tight on his big Telemaster when he takes it up in 25mph winds. He had to fly it at 1/4 throttle for 45 minutes 'till it ran out of fuel in that wind. After he landed, and doing a fine job of keeping a barely flying plane from augering in, he was a wee bit shaken. I won't say he was nervous but, I will say he was very, VERY alert!

Sorry man, I just had to...

Keep it "tight"! HAHAHAHA

See ya' this saturday!

Gordo-ProBro

And now, back to the regularly scheduled program.....

I have tried all the methods, and all worked! I like contact cement (I have a lot, use it daily) because it dries fast and can be dissolved with lacquer thinner and repairs made. It is weaker, I can break a joint if I try, but never had one fail in flight.

therotund1

I almost forgot I was gonna make a smart alec remark when I saw flap beat me to it. Here goes....

Jimmy, the glue ain't holding cause you're drooling all over your new creations! Wipe your mouth! That better not be MY wing you're slobberin' on.....

All for fun, and, fun for all!

Hey Chris, where do you fly? I'm in Brownsville, between Jackson and Memphis. Thought I'd pay you guys a visit. I'll bring flap with me!!

SKYLORD

Do let the contact cement dry before pressing together?
How about the Gorilla glue?

SKYLORD

Where do I get Gorilla glue?

Widgeo

My Feedback: (6)

HEY!! i have an ultra stick and a QHOR!! Does that make me bi??

RysiuM

My Feedback: (1)

I got it from Home Depot at the paint section where they have all kind of glues.

RysiuM

Gordo-ProBro

Contact cement: Brush it on both srfaces, let dry, put together. One note: Don't use the water based. Very bad!

flap

Jimmy, (HOOTER) and I are flying buddies and I couldnt resist taking a cheap shot at him as Ive been giving him a hard time about taking up the corroplast sport lately.

Im guilty of jumping into those spad balsa arguments now and again, I do love to build when theres time. but, rest assured I realize the passion for the hobby is just as strong for you spad guys and I really mean no harm nor offense.

The reality is, guys like Tattoo have made a bigger contribution to the hobby than I likely ever will and I applaud your efforts
I think spads have as much a place in the hobby as any other form of plane out there.

That said, maybe we can agree to dissagree, Ill not try to convert yall to conventional building methods if you wont hate me for the love of BALSA.

Tattoo

Sorry for getting off topic...but...I have a web tracker that reveals some interesting things...one of which is an interesting hits per hour and hits per day graph at spadtothebone. It's always interesting...every time a heated Balsa vs. Coro debate takes place on RCU...the hit tracker spikes like crazy...and I'm talking in the hundreds. A lot of people read this forum...so I welcome this from time to time... guys are sending people to check it all out without even realizing the amount of interest they're generating...so bring it on

jrex

Actually I kind of think it was a funny comment. I've heard similar comments from time to time about balsa, etc. Maybe I'm not fanatic enuf or not even a real spadder. My plastic plane is a p51 foamy kit thats reinforced with corogated plastic so maybe that doesnt qualify me as a true believer. Still, I love a plane that survives minor tumbles without disintegrating like balsa. Gluing stuff together is the trickiest part about spads- or seems so to me. I like goop best but keep an eye open to see if theres better stuff in the works.

Cheers!

vertigo72480

Ok guys, I've been a little converstaion with Tattoo about this stuff I got from work. It is a rubber tire cleaner that we use to take much and grime off of wheels and tires and glass and all kinds of stuff. I know that it will emulsify plastic. i sprayed it on a plastic clipboard at work and it just turned it to goo.

GET THIS!!!! The Coro that I am using, I got it free from a guy at the airfield, doesn't liquify!!!! CRAZY STUFF!! I was amazed.

I am in the process of conducting an experiment.
One method to glue coro: spray the coro with the tire cleaner, spray the other piece with tire cleaner, rub the pieces down. Then dab a little CA on one piece. I am using Zap A Gap CA+. Press both pieces together, hold for a count of ten, let go. So far the stuff has held pretty well, but i haven't given it a long time to cure, not even 30 seconds, when I pull on the two pieces they hold really well. Under a bit of stress though I can hear the CA cracking and then separating. But it take a lot of torque to get it to snap apart and when it fianlly separates the CA is still moist.

Method two: Flash the Coro. Ok this is where I am really curious. First off, when i flash my scrap pieces, I blast them with the torch really quickly, i look for a few ripples, then stop heating them. The pieces are really warm, and the coro is very flexible.
IS THIS THE RIGHT WAY TO FLASH????? Right now, as I am typing this the two pieces that I flashed are curing under a little pressure from a C clamp. i am not sure what the results will be, but I will let you all know the results.

i was really hoping that the Tire Cleaner would emulsify the plastic so I could see if i could bond the coro to itself with it's "natural" oils. Oh WELL, I am enjoying myself so far!

Mike

vertigo72480

Well, the results are in, sorta.

On the pieces that were glued with just the tire cleaner and the CA, they held pretty well, until i started jerking on them and twisting them around. Then they snapped apart. I'm wondering if it will hold when i fold my wing over and glue it together.

On the pieces that were sprayed, flashed, and then glued, I think I flashed a little too long because one of the pieces had a little bow to it and when the clamp was removed it separated partially, right away. After jerking on it it came apart rather quickly.

I even tried two pieces of coro just glued together, this had similar results to the flashed pieces. No immediate separation, just easy to pull apart.

DARN, I'm frustrated. I'm not sure what I should do. I have everything ready to glue the wings of my BUHOR, but still not sure on how to glue.

I guess what I am looking for is something that will really cause the plastic to bond with itself. Kinda like model airplane glue. When I used to use that stuff on my static models, it would kinda melt the plastics. Maybe I'm looking for the wrong thing. i'm just not sure.


I am also not too sureabout my flashing technique.
Any ideas?

Mike

Tattoo

Clean with windex first. Flash it like you mean it! I touch the flame to the coro...move fast...and go until the plastic juuuuuuuuuust starts to ripple. Done in seconds...two rows of medium CA dots...some water mist on the opposing surface...fold...hold...done. With the amount of pressure in the BUHOR wing, I usually give the CA a minute or two to set up. This method hasen't failed me yet on old, new, purchased virgin, or scrounged old sign Coroplast. I've built wings in less than 20 minutes and had them in the air within the hour...no joint failures yet!

HOOTER

Guy's,

I like Spad's. I built my first Spad (DPS) two weeks ago, used 4 mil Coro for the whole wing ( it had a very triangular shape) and it flew like a brick. I crashed it right off the bat on a landing, I went to pick it up and discovered it will fly again. To put a long story short three of us in our club crashed this brick nine times and at the end it was still flyable, we basically got tired of going out to get it and straightening up the wing.

This last week I built four DPS fuselages and three wings
(got some 2 mil Coro from Regal PLastics "Great folks"). My first wing was OK but had some creases. My second wing was better but still not right. The third wing was perfect ( You learn by doing). What is so cool about this story I built these three wings after work from 5:00 PM to 9:00 PM.

I flew my latest DPS Saturday using one servo in the center of the wing, I could not get the amount of alerion (I have got to learn how to spell that word) I wanted so on Sunday I put dual servo's on the wing and it flew great!!!! Everybody was impressed how it flew.

OK, now I started this thread with a glueing question and somehow it evolved into a Balsa verses Spad "P.O" contest. The guy's in our club who posted the negative Spad comments are very good guy's and were out for a little fun with me!! So I think everybody needs to lighten up a little bit and understand this is a hobby "Fun" . By the way Flap flew my Spad and likes it. Who would have "Thunk It"

Stil love balsa but will keep doing the Spad's

Later,

Hooter

therotund1

HOOTER's DPS flew great! Mild when you need it, WILD when you want it! Great job!

We have pictures of flap flying it. They can be had for a price... LOL

This thing is gonna spread like wildfire! It's gonna be big! If someone would design a bunch of these things, and set up some websites for 'em, It just could lead to a phenomenom!

What?? That's already been done?? Oh OK.

Thanks to all involved in the SPAD effort!

C-YA!

do_linux

Here's how I glue coro
1. Scuff the areas to be glued with 200 grit sandpaper
2. Scrub areas with acetone on a rag to clean the surface
3. Apply Medium CA in dots every ~1/2" on one surface
4. Press the surfaces together until the glue sets

<hypothesis>
the sanding increases the surface area and allows the glue to get a better grip
</hypothesis>
Be sure the acetone evaporates before gluing. Perform in a well ventilated area.

RysiuM

My Feedback: (1)

How long does it take?

RysiuM