Design Tips for Lighter and Stronger Builds
12-29-2015, 06:09 AM
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Design Tips for Lighter and Stronger Builds
Building a 78" Fun Flier
I was getting ready to retire one of my favorite fliers; a 12 years old stick that had so many flights on it that the engine was worn out. This old stick was one of my first planes that had a fuselage as long as the wing, instead of the age old formula that the fuselage should be 75% as long as the wingspan.
Modern super smooth flying pattern planes use a much longer fuselage for smoother maneuvers. This stick has a 67” wingspan, 65” fuselage, 7 lbs, and a 90 2c engine gives it more than enough power. The bomb bay is good for added fun. It flies not exactly like a full- house pattern plane, but far smoother than any old stick ever did: “Like it’s on rails” is an over-used term that comes to mind.
After starting to strip the hardware from the old stick, it became apparent that the it was in better shape than I thought, other than the color which had always been an embarasment. Hint: Don’t ever uses see-through colors on a solid fuselage- it looks terrible!
I recovered the old timer, ordered a new engine, and then decided to build a new, larger, lighter, version anyway.
Your questions and comments are always welcome.
I was getting ready to retire one of my favorite fliers; a 12 years old stick that had so many flights on it that the engine was worn out. This old stick was one of my first planes that had a fuselage as long as the wing, instead of the age old formula that the fuselage should be 75% as long as the wingspan.
Modern super smooth flying pattern planes use a much longer fuselage for smoother maneuvers. This stick has a 67” wingspan, 65” fuselage, 7 lbs, and a 90 2c engine gives it more than enough power. The bomb bay is good for added fun. It flies not exactly like a full- house pattern plane, but far smoother than any old stick ever did: “Like it’s on rails” is an over-used term that comes to mind.
After starting to strip the hardware from the old stick, it became apparent that the it was in better shape than I thought, other than the color which had always been an embarasment. Hint: Don’t ever uses see-through colors on a solid fuselage- it looks terrible!
I recovered the old timer, ordered a new engine, and then decided to build a new, larger, lighter, version anyway.
Your questions and comments are always welcome.
Last edited by tomclark; 01-16-2016 at 07:20 PM.
12-29-2015, 06:41 AM
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The new plane was started in November. I drew the plans and cut the ribs - while I was in the middle of other projects. Then actual construction started around December 15th and finished over the holidays. The weather has been windy and cold here in the west, so it hasn’t flown yet. I took the photos as the build went together, but am just now getting around to posting this thread.
Take the basic Ugly Stick design from 40 years ago, modernize it, lengthen it, strengthen it, lighten it, overpower it, and you will have what will probably become your favorite everyday flier.
The wingspan on the new bird is 78", the fuselage is 78", the wing area is 1500 sq. in., and weight came out to 7.6 pounds. That produces a 12 oz. wing loading. The engine is a 120 2c.
In the early days of free flight and RC, airplanes were made of sticks because they were cheap and light. Over the years models went to slab-sided balsa designs. I think the kits were easier to produce, and they built faster. Now many kits and ARFs use plywood fuselages, and leave off the sheeting on the wings. They are faster to assemble, weaker but faster!
I’ve used this simple stick construction since about 1999, on everything from an 8’ Telemaster to 2 meter pattern planes, to good old fun fliers. You can see many of them on my blog.
I always start a new build by sketching an outline of the plane. I already had my old drawing of the original stick, so I blew it up 20%. That may not sound like much, but compare the photos and the numbers. A little is a lot. If you have never had a fun flier in this size range, I highly recommend it. Bigger is better! If you are dedicated to smaller models - hey, one of the great things about scratch building is you can make it any size you want.
My builds are always started with cutting out the ribs. Straight wings are easy. Make a template, rough cut a stack of balsa, and bandsaw the whole pile at one time. I cut the spar slots slight tight to make assembly easier. A light sanding smooths the wood for gluing.
Next, the tail feathers are glued up. I like to have them on hand when building then fuselage.
Take the basic Ugly Stick design from 40 years ago, modernize it, lengthen it, strengthen it, lighten it, overpower it, and you will have what will probably become your favorite everyday flier.
The wingspan on the new bird is 78", the fuselage is 78", the wing area is 1500 sq. in., and weight came out to 7.6 pounds. That produces a 12 oz. wing loading. The engine is a 120 2c.
In the early days of free flight and RC, airplanes were made of sticks because they were cheap and light. Over the years models went to slab-sided balsa designs. I think the kits were easier to produce, and they built faster. Now many kits and ARFs use plywood fuselages, and leave off the sheeting on the wings. They are faster to assemble, weaker but faster!
I’ve used this simple stick construction since about 1999, on everything from an 8’ Telemaster to 2 meter pattern planes, to good old fun fliers. You can see many of them on my blog.
I always start a new build by sketching an outline of the plane. I already had my old drawing of the original stick, so I blew it up 20%. That may not sound like much, but compare the photos and the numbers. A little is a lot. If you have never had a fun flier in this size range, I highly recommend it. Bigger is better! If you are dedicated to smaller models - hey, one of the great things about scratch building is you can make it any size you want.
My builds are always started with cutting out the ribs. Straight wings are easy. Make a template, rough cut a stack of balsa, and bandsaw the whole pile at one time. I cut the spar slots slight tight to make assembly easier. A light sanding smooths the wood for gluing.
Next, the tail feathers are glued up. I like to have them on hand when building then fuselage.
Last edited by tomclark; 01-08-2016 at 05:22 AM.
12-29-2015, 08:59 AM
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The photos should explain construction far better than I can. All the stick locations are not critical. I just eyeball them in place. The only important locations are the plywood pieces.
Tips:
Using 1/4" balsa, the front and rear of the fuselage are glued up and pinned to the plan. Smaller sticks are 1/4x1/4 and 1/4x1/2. Wider pieces are ripped on the bandsaw as needed. For simplicity, joints are just butt glued, and later doublers are glued over all joints for strength.
It is far harder to describe than to do, but the photos show show the details.
Cut out the plywood pieces and mark their locations, but don't epoxy in until the second side is built over the first side and all the small sticks are glued in place.
Before the sides are epoxied together it is easier to figure out the locations of the rear servos and cut the holes.
The fuselage at this point only weighs 1.2 pounds.
Tips:
Using 1/4" balsa, the front and rear of the fuselage are glued up and pinned to the plan. Smaller sticks are 1/4x1/4 and 1/4x1/2. Wider pieces are ripped on the bandsaw as needed. For simplicity, joints are just butt glued, and later doublers are glued over all joints for strength.
It is far harder to describe than to do, but the photos show show the details.
Cut out the plywood pieces and mark their locations, but don't epoxy in until the second side is built over the first side and all the small sticks are glued in place.
Before the sides are epoxied together it is easier to figure out the locations of the rear servos and cut the holes.
The fuselage at this point only weighs 1.2 pounds.
Last edited by tomclark; 12-30-2015 at 05:02 AM.
12-30-2015, 04:46 AM
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Photos make the construction details easy to see.
The plywood pieces are first epoxied to one side. Use a small square to keep them in position.
A plywood motor mount costs a few cents instead of $10, and helps dampen vibrations. I have use dozens of them, up to 160 size engines. They work great. I use bit of right thrust on larger engines, usually about 2 degrees.
Note the landing gear plate and wing dowel block epoxied in place and tied together with plywood. The blocks that hold the wing blocks are also epoxied to plywood blocks.
Being old-fashioned, I still isolate my fuel tanks by floating them on foam. They are held in place with dots of silicon glue. Note the silicon sealing up the front of the tank and the fuel lines. Keeping the inside of the plane dry makes for a very long lasting plane. I don't bother with hatches. I needed one once in 80 planes, and just cut a hatch with an exacto knife. It was easy to put back in place and recover.
The plywood pieces are first epoxied to one side. Use a small square to keep them in position.
A plywood motor mount costs a few cents instead of $10, and helps dampen vibrations. I have use dozens of them, up to 160 size engines. They work great. I use bit of right thrust on larger engines, usually about 2 degrees.
Note the landing gear plate and wing dowel block epoxied in place and tied together with plywood. The blocks that hold the wing blocks are also epoxied to plywood blocks.
Being old-fashioned, I still isolate my fuel tanks by floating them on foam. They are held in place with dots of silicon glue. Note the silicon sealing up the front of the tank and the fuel lines. Keeping the inside of the plane dry makes for a very long lasting plane. I don't bother with hatches. I needed one once in 80 planes, and just cut a hatch with an exacto knife. It was easy to put back in place and recover.
Last edited by tomclark; 01-08-2016 at 05:28 AM.
12-30-2015, 07:16 AM
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Lets take a minute to discuss airfoils. For the last 40 years I have used the same basic airfoil design. It is a semi-symetrical design that is so close to full-semitrical that no can tell the difference by looking at it or flying the plane. The bottom of the airfoil has a very slight flat on it, so the wing can be built flat on the building board. This really speeds up the building process by eliminating jigs, tabs, and other hoopla.
The first photo shows the ribs for this plane. I have to mark the bottom because it is hard to see the difference otherwise. A very slight curve to the top is the only difference.
The airfoils vary from 12-15% in thickness. The faster you want to fly, the thinner the airfoil. Quickie 500 pylon racers had to have a 12.5% airfoil (10" cord and 1.25" thick) This stick used a 14%, fairly high lift at slow speeds - the 120 engine will still pull it along as fast as you want to go. Ten years ago I built a a similar 102" stick with a 12% airfoil, and used a 12" airfoil. The thinner airfoil still has plenty of lift because the plane is so light; it is a joy to fly.
In other words, make your wing as thick or as thin as you need it for the flight characteristics you want. This build used a 14% thick airfoil - kinda general purpose. Also consider the thicker the airfoil the stronger the wing. I usually put the high point of the airfoil about 30-35% back from the leading edge - about where I want the balance point to be.
I refuse to build a wing with out sheeting. They are just too weak and the covering material holds them together until you hit something. Here I took a 3" wide 3/32 stock and using a straight edge, cut off a strip 7/8 wide. This gives really straight edge for the front and back of the wing.
The 7/8 wide strip was pinned to the board, a 1/4x3/8 stick glued to it, and then the back of the ribs CAed in place. The back bottom spar is glued in while keeping the ribs in line. The the rest of the spars, leading edge, front sheeting, and finally the center sheeting, and cap strips are all glued before the wing is turned over. I do use a long sanding block to touch up the ribs before sheeting is added. When the wing is turned, add the shear webs before sheeting.
Next the two wing haves are epoxied together and the tips built. I used 1.5" dihedral under one tip for looks. Straight wings with no dihedral always look like they are drooping.
Remember, this wing has a 78" span, a 19" (avg.) cord, and nearly 1500 square inches. It's big, stiff, and strong.
The first photo shows the ribs for this plane. I have to mark the bottom because it is hard to see the difference otherwise. A very slight curve to the top is the only difference.
The airfoils vary from 12-15% in thickness. The faster you want to fly, the thinner the airfoil. Quickie 500 pylon racers had to have a 12.5% airfoil (10" cord and 1.25" thick) This stick used a 14%, fairly high lift at slow speeds - the 120 engine will still pull it along as fast as you want to go. Ten years ago I built a a similar 102" stick with a 12% airfoil, and used a 12" airfoil. The thinner airfoil still has plenty of lift because the plane is so light; it is a joy to fly.
In other words, make your wing as thick or as thin as you need it for the flight characteristics you want. This build used a 14% thick airfoil - kinda general purpose. Also consider the thicker the airfoil the stronger the wing. I usually put the high point of the airfoil about 30-35% back from the leading edge - about where I want the balance point to be.
I refuse to build a wing with out sheeting. They are just too weak and the covering material holds them together until you hit something. Here I took a 3" wide 3/32 stock and using a straight edge, cut off a strip 7/8 wide. This gives really straight edge for the front and back of the wing.
The 7/8 wide strip was pinned to the board, a 1/4x3/8 stick glued to it, and then the back of the ribs CAed in place. The back bottom spar is glued in while keeping the ribs in line. The the rest of the spars, leading edge, front sheeting, and finally the center sheeting, and cap strips are all glued before the wing is turned over. I do use a long sanding block to touch up the ribs before sheeting is added. When the wing is turned, add the shear webs before sheeting.
Next the two wing haves are epoxied together and the tips built. I used 1.5" dihedral under one tip for looks. Straight wings with no dihedral always look like they are drooping.
Remember, this wing has a 78" span, a 19" (avg.) cord, and nearly 1500 square inches. It's big, stiff, and strong.
Last edited by tomclark; 12-30-2015 at 12:56 PM.
12-31-2015, 04:25 AM
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Folded any wings lately? My last was around 40 years ago because I take time to fiberglass the center section.
Lots of ways to do this, so here is my way.
Cut the glass with sharp sissors to do the bottom first. I use 7 ounce cloth. It is strong enough to do the job, and thin enough so you can barely see it under the covering.
Lay it in place and put strips of masking tape on either side. Use a few drops of thin CA around the edges to hold the glass in place.
Mix up some 5 minute epoxy and add about 1/3 that much acetone to thin the mixture.
Dump it on the top of the cloth and spread it out with a squegge. Anything will do. I have a bunch of small Formica samples that I use, then throw away.
If you mixed up too little, wait 10 minutes, then add a little more. If you have too much - toss it. If you have just a small spot that did not cover all the way, put some thin CA on it. Works great but stinks.
I have a half-sheet sander in my woodworking shop, and with 80 grit paper it makes short work of finishing the fiberglassing job. You can finish by hand, but it takes a lot longer.
I weighed a wing with a 20" cord before and after. Doing both sides only added a half-ounce to the plane. It's far lighter than I thought.
Lots of ways to do this, so here is my way.
Cut the glass with sharp sissors to do the bottom first. I use 7 ounce cloth. It is strong enough to do the job, and thin enough so you can barely see it under the covering.
Lay it in place and put strips of masking tape on either side. Use a few drops of thin CA around the edges to hold the glass in place.
Mix up some 5 minute epoxy and add about 1/3 that much acetone to thin the mixture.
Dump it on the top of the cloth and spread it out with a squegge. Anything will do. I have a bunch of small Formica samples that I use, then throw away.
If you mixed up too little, wait 10 minutes, then add a little more. If you have too much - toss it. If you have just a small spot that did not cover all the way, put some thin CA on it. Works great but stinks.
I have a half-sheet sander in my woodworking shop, and with 80 grit paper it makes short work of finishing the fiberglassing job. You can finish by hand, but it takes a lot longer.
I weighed a wing with a 20" cord before and after. Doing both sides only added a half-ounce to the plane. It's far lighter than I thought.
12-31-2015, 04:45 AM
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Ironing Time
Some guys hate it. Some love it. I am somewhere in-between. All I look for is something that is easy to put on, and something that is easy to see in the air under all sky conditions is the main priority.
All to often I have test flown a students new ARF with the fancy covering job, and it disappears in the air from time to time. That's not a lot of fun.
On high wing or shoulder wing planes, the wing dowels are mounted in 1/4" thick plywood plates epoxied to the leading edge and front spars. I find it easier to partially cover the area first before adding the dowel.
Black is hard to see on the bench while covering, but sure shows up well in the air… Just don't use a black leading edge on your wings. They tend to disappear on final.
Some guys hate it. Some love it. I am somewhere in-between. All I look for is something that is easy to put on, and something that is easy to see in the air under all sky conditions is the main priority.
All to often I have test flown a students new ARF with the fancy covering job, and it disappears in the air from time to time. That's not a lot of fun.
On high wing or shoulder wing planes, the wing dowels are mounted in 1/4" thick plywood plates epoxied to the leading edge and front spars. I find it easier to partially cover the area first before adding the dowel.
Black is hard to see on the bench while covering, but sure shows up well in the air… Just don't use a black leading edge on your wings. They tend to disappear on final.
01-01-2016, 04:42 AM
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So when is too big too big? Only when you are trying to fit a big plane into a tiny car. A small van is great. Once you get a chance to fly a plane like this, you will see why they are so popular. They are fabulous fliers!
A few pointers:
Paint the wood around the engine. Fuel soaks into plywood and weakens it.
I use 6/32 x 1.5 in screws instead of fancy hardware for the linkages. Very easy to install. Just soak the wood around the drilled holes, and add a drop of CA again once installed. Been using them for 15 years without a failure..
Tape the aileron wires together. It is embarrassing when on falls back into the wing - and a pain to fix.
The landing gear is made from 2" wide 6061 T6 aluminum. Easily sawed on a wood cutting bandsaw. Do not use soft aluminum unless you like constantly rebending the landing gear.
Airbrakes - both ailerons up - really cuts down on the glide rate. Great for spot landings on a short field. Flaps are fun to shorten takeoffs. I use up for brakes and down for flaps on one switch next to the dual rate switch. Lots of added fun.
three position switch next to the dual rates.
Why Scratch Build?
Compare this plane to the Tower Hobbies Giant Big Stick ARF:
80.5 span, 1520 Sq. in., 74.5 length, 13-15 pounds, wing loading 20-23 oz., 120-160 engine, cost $325
This build: 78” span, 1482 Sq in., 78” length, 7.6 pounds, wing loading 12 oz., 120 engine, cost under $100 to build.
A few pointers:
Paint the wood around the engine. Fuel soaks into plywood and weakens it.
I use 6/32 x 1.5 in screws instead of fancy hardware for the linkages. Very easy to install. Just soak the wood around the drilled holes, and add a drop of CA again once installed. Been using them for 15 years without a failure..
Tape the aileron wires together. It is embarrassing when on falls back into the wing - and a pain to fix.
The landing gear is made from 2" wide 6061 T6 aluminum. Easily sawed on a wood cutting bandsaw. Do not use soft aluminum unless you like constantly rebending the landing gear.
Airbrakes - both ailerons up - really cuts down on the glide rate. Great for spot landings on a short field. Flaps are fun to shorten takeoffs. I use up for brakes and down for flaps on one switch next to the dual rate switch. Lots of added fun.
three position switch next to the dual rates.
Why Scratch Build?
Compare this plane to the Tower Hobbies Giant Big Stick ARF:
80.5 span, 1520 Sq. in., 74.5 length, 13-15 pounds, wing loading 20-23 oz., 120-160 engine, cost $325
This build: 78” span, 1482 Sq in., 78” length, 7.6 pounds, wing loading 12 oz., 120 engine, cost under $100 to build.
Last edited by tomclark; 01-03-2016 at 06:47 PM.
01-01-2016, 05:00 AM
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Finishing a new plane cause three problems:
1. I just love to build. When the workbench is cleared of one project, it’s time to start thinking about the next one.
2. I just love to fly. It’s always hard to decide which two planes to put into the van for a trip to the flying field.
3. The plane rack is over flowing. All of these planes used the same basic construction! See my blog on scratch builds.
Test flying Sunday if the weather forecast holds. I try not to be like my friend Calvin during the first flights.
Will be back with flight report and photos ASAP.
Happy New Year and best wishes for the coming year.
Tom
1. I just love to build. When the workbench is cleared of one project, it’s time to start thinking about the next one.
2. I just love to fly. It’s always hard to decide which two planes to put into the van for a trip to the flying field.
3. The plane rack is over flowing. All of these planes used the same basic construction! See my blog on scratch builds.
Test flying Sunday if the weather forecast holds. I try not to be like my friend Calvin during the first flights.
Will be back with flight report and photos ASAP.
Happy New Year and best wishes for the coming year.
Tom
Last edited by tomclark; 01-01-2016 at 07:16 PM.
01-03-2016, 08:55 AM
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Tom, I really like your design, but your workshop is a disaster. How can you work in those conditions?? Really, with everything in it's place nice and organized, I wouldn't be able to find anything. OK, who am I kidding, I'd love to be that organized. Thanks for posting this.
...Steve
...Steve
01-03-2016, 01:26 PM
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Hi Steve,
Thanks for your post. Glad to see that someone is reading this thread. I was beginning to wonder…
Having a great workshop to play in is part of the enjoyment of the hobby. I am a hobbiest woodworker and every once in a while just have to go and build something for the shop. Lots of shop photos on my blogs.
Thanks for your post. Glad to see that someone is reading this thread. I was beginning to wonder…
Having a great workshop to play in is part of the enjoyment of the hobby. I am a hobbiest woodworker and every once in a while just have to go and build something for the shop. Lots of shop photos on my blogs.
Last edited by tomclark; 01-03-2016 at 06:54 PM.
01-03-2016, 01:31 PM
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Today was a beautiful day at the flying field - especially for a January day. I flew the plane for the first time; four flights altogether. Did have to add one click of down and one left. Not bad.
It flies exactly as expected, a real joy. Light planes are always a joy to fly, especially one this size. Unfortunately, no one else showed up, so there was no one to handle the camera for me to take some photos. Will come back one of these days and post some.
It flies exactly as expected, a real joy. Light planes are always a joy to fly, especially one this size. Unfortunately, no one else showed up, so there was no one to handle the camera for me to take some photos. Will come back one of these days and post some.
01-04-2016, 08:15 PM
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Tom, congrats on your plane! I am also a builder and wondering how can you maintain a workshop clean as yours. Not a spec of sawdust! Very nice.
I like your way of building, affordable and easy, as it should be. Liked those linkages using 6-32 bolts. Where you can find the nylon piece where you connect the kwik link?
Here is my Hooker, converted to electric. People say it "flies on rails" also.
I use to draw the plans on AutoCAD and print all parts on cardstock paper using as templates. Its easy for me as I am a designer.
I like your way of building, affordable and easy, as it should be. Liked those linkages using 6-32 bolts. Where you can find the nylon piece where you connect the kwik link?
Here is my Hooker, converted to electric. People say it "flies on rails" also.
Last edited by ARillos; 01-05-2016 at 07:40 AM.
01-05-2016, 08:43 AM
#15
Hi Tom, good to see you are posting your build tips and techniques. I've learned a lot since I started following your threads. Good useful and helpful info.
ARillos, the horn brackets are Dubro 559. bracket
I've been using them since I first saw them. I Have 2 planes built using them but no maiden flight yet. I'm still getting stick time before doing the maiden.
Good looking plane you built.
ARillos, the horn brackets are Dubro 559. bracket
I've been using them since I first saw them. I Have 2 planes built using them but no maiden flight yet. I'm still getting stick time before doing the maiden.
Good looking plane you built.
01-05-2016, 12:47 PM
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Arillos,
Here is where I get the horn brackets. 5 for a buck is a better price. I ordered about 50 of them. Put a 6/32 tap in your cordless drill and tap them. Makes them go onto the screws easier. By the way, I use a magic camera that doesn't show the dirt…
ETpilot,
Thanks for the welcome back. So far I have posted 10 builds, all linked to on my blog. Just having a good time building.
Here is where I get the horn brackets. 5 for a buck is a better price. I ordered about 50 of them. Put a 6/32 tap in your cordless drill and tap them. Makes them go onto the screws easier. By the way, I use a magic camera that doesn't show the dirt…
ETpilot,
Thanks for the welcome back. So far I have posted 10 builds, all linked to on my blog. Just having a good time building.
01-17-2016, 02:30 PM
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It was a cold and blustery day with 15+ gusty winds. You would think a 78" plane with a 12 ounce wing loading wouldn't like flying too much.
Without flaps the take off roll was very short due too the wind, and it bounced around a bit due to the rough air, but it was still a ball to fly. Point the nose up a bit, lower the flaps, and it would fly backwards quite easily. The OS 120 is still breaking in, but ran beautifully.
Well, it's not a beautiful scale P51 that you spent a year building, but for shear fun, even on rough days that you wouldn't want to fly one of your best planes, it is still a lot of fun to fly. On nice days like last week, it is easy to fly close in, low and slow, and shoot a bunch of touch and goes with.
All and all, I'm very happy with this 78", 7.6 pound, 120 powered stick, and you will be too if you build one.
By the way, the colors are really easy to see in the air…
Without flaps the take off roll was very short due too the wind, and it bounced around a bit due to the rough air, but it was still a ball to fly. Point the nose up a bit, lower the flaps, and it would fly backwards quite easily. The OS 120 is still breaking in, but ran beautifully.
Well, it's not a beautiful scale P51 that you spent a year building, but for shear fun, even on rough days that you wouldn't want to fly one of your best planes, it is still a lot of fun to fly. On nice days like last week, it is easy to fly close in, low and slow, and shoot a bunch of touch and goes with.
All and all, I'm very happy with this 78", 7.6 pound, 120 powered stick, and you will be too if you build one.
By the way, the colors are really easy to see in the air…
